Dan Juday

Do I see the shrubs behind the car between the top of the front tires and the fender? Shouldn't there be some motor stuff there?

You don't need it.

The windshield is laminated annealed glass (regular glass, two pieces with a sheet of plastic sandwiched in the middle). All the other glass is tempered.

Shipping that full front clip to Lulu gunna be a chunk-o-change.

I'm pretty sure John just called us all perverts. Big, BIG, BIGGER FLARES BABY!!!!!

Duh! SHO and Damon have the answer. Stop drilling Wayne. I'd use four 1/2"x6" anchors in each plate. That will hold three times your gate's weight.

If I read Wayne's post right, he doesn't want to bust out the concrete, it's part of his driveway now. Burning would be a good idea but for those damn San Jose rules (glad I left). I think you're stuck with the method you're using. But I seriously doubt you're going to get new 4x4's back in there without busting out the concrete. I'd replace them with steel "I" beams. No problem getting the new cement in the hole that way either. Then drill and lag screw to the redwood. With the steel you wouldn't have to go as deep in the ground to get the same strength as wood.

Only in the Twilight Zone. Here in the real world it's imposible. The temper must first be taken out of the glass for it to be cut. Then the glass must be re-tempered. It's very likely the piece would not survive the process. This also requires some very expensive equipment (read industrial). I would think formed Lexan would be a more viable alternative for side windows and then just get used to polishing out the scratches. Sorry for the disappointing news. This is why chopped top cars with curved glass are so rare. Any chance a couple of pics can be posted here in the thread?

As a friend of mine likes to say, "Who doesn't like In-N-Out?". Have it animal style.

Dude, watch your language! The moderators around here are anal about that kind of talk. Don't want to get banned, do you?

Jody is right. Don't worry about reprogramming now. If you get all the wires hooked up to the right places the motor will run. It will run with open headers and no O2 sensors and no knock sensor. Ask me how I know. It runs a whole lot better with those sensors though. You don't even have to reprogram if you don't want to and it will run just like it did in the car it came out of. Reprogramming makes some things easier, like deleteing the VATS so you don't have to wire in the VATS modual or add the resistor to simulate the key pellet. It also allows you to get a little more power out of the engine by massageing the AFR maps and raising the fuel cut off (rev limiter) a few hundred rpms. Spend some time in the archives here and you will find lots of valuable info on the LT1 swap, like chosing the '95 f-body motor for your Z. Good luck, and welcome to Hybrid.

No problem Alex. Which way did you come in?

Ron Tyler was working on a double A-arm front suspension for the S30. He keeps moving his site around so much though that none of my links are good anymore. Anybody have a current link to Ron's site?

What did I start?!?! Honestly, I had no clue about those damn dots. I'm just self absorbed and I have to know what people are saying about me. Please Tim, tell me what they're saying about me. Make something up. Just don't tell me I'm not note worthy. That's the lowest of lows, to be ignored. That's worse than being repressed. BTW, how many coconuts can a sparrow carry?

You guys should give us a clue that you're talking behind our backs. Maybe like a red dot next to our avitar for every time we're mentioned on the secret forum. That way, when we see our red dot count start to rise we know when to back off.

Thanks John for confirming what I have believed for years.

Or adapt Corvette C4 parts. Beautiful and light and available in most yards. Ron Tyler was working on a double A arm set up on the S30 unibody a while back.

I think even these few responces are quite telling. Sometimes you get lucky and get a nice person who is trying their best to serve you. Other times you get a grumpy jerk that dosen't care less. My experiance has gone both ways.

Thanks, I like it too. Easy to install, remove the two bolts that hold the steering collum up and slip it on. Three screws on each end hold it in place. That's if you have a 280 dash. It was a bit tougher on my 240 dash. And the fit isn't perfect. COZY is hunting down a 280 dash for me though. When my new gauges arrive I'll swap everything and it should fit much better. I bought it from a Tom owner that didn't use it. He had a perfect stock dash and didn't want to cover it. I think I paid about $150. Getting one by itself from Rory, the kit builder, is a challenge.

Mine is a 13". Hard to park with 265's up front. I'd like to change it for a 14".

Tomahawk dash cap, Jackie Stewart signature Momo wheel, Starion seats, Body color four point roll bar. New gauges soon.

I'm heart broken. Who are you??? Some things are too expensive at any price.

Yes. I just couldn't get the nose low enough in my car to even up the u-joint angles without it sitting right on the crossmember. I know Pete P. had some trouble with that in his car. I haven't had any with mine. I just bolted it up, used some washers to set the angle, and off I went. No trouble at all. Pete fixed his with a simple spring to hold the cables up.

I just changed my diff yesterday. Finally broke the R180 on the trip to and from MSA. A while back, when I also got tired of the driveshaft/handbrake interferance, I changed over to a Ron Tyler mount. It made changing the diff simple, one bolt. Rons design also has the advantage, for us V8 guys, of being able to lower the nose enough to get proper u-joint angles. I did have to cut a section out of the crossmember to make clearance for the larger R200 snout. But this is no big deal as all it does now is just clamp the LCA bushing to the body.