Dan Juday

Gee, look what I found doing a simple search with the word "Quest". I just copied and pasted it so you guys wouldn't have to actually click a link. "Quest Van wheel stud specs I went looking for these here a few weeks ago and found no definite answers from the search function. So here for your info are the actual measurements. We all know that the diameter and thread pitch are the same as the Z. And the splines are the same. The trick is the length. From shoulder to end 46mm (1 13/16"). Installed in the front hubs they extend 36.5mm (1 7/16") No report yet on length when installed on the rear. Napa Auto Parts part#641-2785. $1.90 each. So now you know."

Dang, a real danger seeker! You really should have enough stud exposed to be able to fill the whole lug nut at least. A couple threads past the nut is even better.

Since it appears that you have the hubs off the car you could use a hydraulic press and press them out. I've always been able to get them out by wacking with a hammer. But, then again, I'm hell at wacking. (Harrison Ford, The Witness) Check the archives. Studs from the Nissan Quest van fit and have the same thread size and pitch and are a little bit longer. Those are the ones I have with my billet wheels. The front fit great but the rears need longer studs. Perhaps my rear rims are thicker. You can get longer studs but the thread pitch will change and you may need to drill the hub or get really really hell at wacking.

The first floor pic I'd say just weld it up. Then I looked at the second one and I don't know what to say. Looks scary! Throw the hatch away and get a new (junk yard) one. As far as the rear floor being cut out you need to remove the aluminum panel and look at the rear frame rails. As long as they are intact you're fine. Even if they're cut up if you can weld them back together or rebrace the floor you should still be fine.

Start 'er up. If everything else is working fine it will run in open loop mode. It will run rich and have poor fuel mileage but it wll run just fine. On the Tomahawk we had the bungs put in the head pipes right after the headers and they worked great there.

Guess since we're talking mix-n-match fiberglass body panels here I should pipe up. I think I agree with Larry, if I read him right. The JCR rear fenders are quite angular and sharp edged as opposed to the more rounded form of the SubtleZ front fenders. Not that the two sets coundn't be massaged, ie; cut a nice vent in the SubtleZ front fenders, smooth out some of the edginess of the JCR rears. I did similar things with the glass bulges on my Z. I think the G-nose with the right blending and a deft touch would look great mated to the SubtleZ fenders. John will work with you on that too. I love the looks of the G-nose. It's just the change in proportions that it does to the car that I couldn't adjust to. And yes, The G must have headlight covers. FYI, John has had enough calls for a bumperless SubtleZ that he has asked for a mold from my MSA/SubtleZ blended nose. If all goes well we'll take a trip to Phoenix in the fall to get "itchy and stinky". Then anyone can have a D-nose Z.

John produces excellent glass. My car is full of his artwork. And that SS hood is sweet. But I'm afraid neither the SS or John's SubtleZ cowl hood is going to give you anymore room for the radiator. Johns cowl is only higher in the rear, a long way from the radiator. And the SS hood actually looks to have less room then the stock hood up near the radiator. I ran into a similar problem. I used the JTR radiator bracket and the JTR radiator and the cap still touched the hood. This was likely due to the rubber insolators I mounted the radiator on and not Mike Knells engineering. I think your best bet is to find some way to lower your radiator.

Sold for $16.5 Don't say I didn't hook you up.

ROTFL!!! I love the drill press one. Sooo true. Now don't start again with my pink handled do-all. That was years ago and I'd like to just forget the whole thing.

The car won the 240 modified class at MSA this year. I talked to the owner, very nice guy. Notice the glass only hatch? Also Jeep Liberty taillights. The car is interresting but, to me, it seems more a collection of parts and pieces rather than a cohesive design (yes, I can hear some of you saying "look who's talking"). Maybe it's just the nose. I know what he's trying to say with it but it just seems a bad match to me.

And this time he's serious. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=7251&item=4555705821&rd=1 With a Buy-it-Now price of $16.5k that's half the appraised value. This is one beautiful Tom. It has comprehensive frame reinforcement and the paint is incredible. The color can't be captured with a camera. Comes with a four piece hard top (t-tops plus removeable T bar) and WORKING A/C. Multiple years 1st place winner at MSA. All it needs is a V8 swap, although the L6 mill in it is very healthy. Not trying to sell it for him, just though everyone here should know. I'd snatch it myself if I had the cash.

Personally, I'd toss it. It's too important a part to mess around with an old rusted up one. New ones aren't that expensive. Next point: I've done both the T5 swap and the T56 swap. On the T5 I drilled and tapped per JTR. On the T56 I had a guy make me an adapter. I wish I had done that with the T5 (my car). Drilling and tapping that plastic slave is a delicate job. One slip and it's ruined. Or worse, you drill too close to the sides and it breaks at a stop light someday. The other big plus when using an adapter is that if you have to replace the slave sometime in the future it's a simple bolt in. JMHO from a guy that's BTDT.

Keep in mind there are several factors involved. The first one that comes to mind is tire size. I'm running 150#/200# 10" springs but I also have 265/305 width 15" tires. While you might expect, with those spring rates, the front to be soft and rear stiff it is exactly the opicite. When I finally get all the suspension and brake upgrades done I'll probably change out the front springs for something softer.

Watch it Terry.

My what? FYI Alex, you got a great shot of my wife and I next to the Z. And you said it would look terrible. Any chance you could e-mail me a high res copy?

Here's the shot I was looking for. Now Tim, honestly... From John Washingtns site: http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/danjuday/danjuday.html

Prime rib and halibit, what's not to like? Wifey loves me. Turned out to be C+25% including the valet's tip for NOT parking the car. Sharp kid, he never even asked. Just promised he'd keep an eye on it for me.

I don't have the LT1 diagram with me, I'm looking at my TPI diagram, think they are both wired the same though. The VSS has a high and low connection. Yellow wire, "A" terminal, is high. Purple wire, "B" terminal, is the low connection and also the grounded wire. Mark way very well be correct in that it may not matter which one you ground. I honestly don't know what is ment by the the terms high and low. Looks just like a simple coil with a rotating magnet to induce a voltage across it in the diagram. Rotating magnet>>AC>>no polarity. I do remember Autometer telling which wires to connect to the high and low terminals though. So what am I missing?

I'll put $5 on the stuck brake drum too. With the car in the air and one tire stopped, place a chalk mark on the diff pinion flange and the free wheel/tire. Rotate the free wheel one revolution and count the revolutions of the pinion flange and divide by two. To get a more accurate indication rotate the free wheel 5 times while counting the pinion flange rotations and then divide by 10. Eazier done with help from a friend. I always have trouble counting multiple things at the same time.

Take that thing off, Larry. You look silly.

You have everything you need. The Autometer electronic speedo doesn't need a ECM. All it needs is the VSS you have on the tranny. The instructions that came with the speedo should tell you how to hook it up. When I did the Tomahawk swap I contacted Autometer on how to hook it up through the ECM and they said not to, just connect it directly to the VSS. I don't have any of the paper work with me anymore, it's with the car owner. If you don't have the instructions or can't get any help from Autometer via e-mail post back and I'll see if I can round that stuff up. Dan

Drop a note to Scott, a.k.a. strotter. He was telling me about a system by Holley (I think) that uses mulitple pick-up points in the tank. They have some space-age valve that closes automaticly when they are about to suck air. Scott was all jazzed about it because he has the same problem as you. Seems he was telling me that it didn't cost very much and required little or no modification to the tank.

FYI, in the '50's and '60's cars had laminated glass for side windows too. Look at an old Mustang and you will see a chrome metal edge attached to the top of the door glass. It was put there to both hide the edge and to inhibit the glass from separating and getting "bubbles" between the sheets. Check out some old trucks from the '40's and '50's and you can find those tell-tale bubbles in the side windows.