Dan Juday

I'm convinced the best set up for any motor in the Z for any amount of money is the JTR radiator and the Taurus fan. It also, just by chance, happens to be very economical. That combo has been tested and found more than adequate over and over by many members here, self included.

Welcome to hybrid! I've done two V8Z swaps. Both Chevy EFI motors. I think the '95 f-body LT1 is the absolute perfect motor for a 1st gen Z car that's driven on the street. But that's JMHO. We have a lot of opinions here on hybrid. You might say they are as prevalent as... well, you know. You are starting with the perfect year, '75. Just old enough to be smog check excempt for California but with all the added structural reinforcements that the 280 unibodies got. Check the car over good for rust and frame rail damage, common in old Z's. And read a bunch of threads from the archives. There's tons of valuable info here if you are willing to search. And don't worry. Many people have gone before you to make this an easy swap. Start by getting yourself a JTR book.

That price is a steal. If somebody here trys it keep the rest of us updated.

Hey buddy, if the parts are free shouldn't they come with free delivery too?

How did I miss this thread? I'm ROFL!!! I call it Hybrid ZEE, but mostly just Hybrid. Then again, I'm another one of those damn 1776 insurgents. My wife calls it, "That damn web site you can't leave alone for just one day". My son calls it, "Dad, I was on first". Or,"When are you going to get off so I can go to my Lego site". Zed, in English... err 'Merican, sounds too much like sled. And I don't want people to associate my car with a sled. Hybrids? I never saw that.

I spent my birthday this year at the Fairfield P&P with Larry, a.k.a. COZY-Z-COLE. It was half price day for everyone. That was mighty nice of them to honor my birthday that way. I thought the prices were great. It was actually like... half price. Go figure? The cashiers couldn't identify the parts really well though. Maybe that helped. Z rear ends don't look like Chevy rear ends so they were a little confused. They do have a tendancy to add supplimental charges faster than a failing bank though. I think it's funny that they want to charge you for a "warranty". It's a dang junk yard for Pete's sake! Keep your 40% extra "warranty" charge. I know I'm buying a bunch of old crap. I'll take my chances with cash and carry, thank you very much.

Dang, Pete! That sucks. Keep us informed on the fight with the insurance co. Being a Hagerty client myself I'd be interested to hear if they go to bat for you. Hope I never have to post one of those pics.

Sunday? Bring it tomorrow to the kit car show.

The big change in tpi came in '90 when they changed from MAF to SD. Speed/Density would be a big advantage to you since you're stuffing this into an S10 as it simplifies the intake plumbing. The pic below is of my SD tpi and you can see all I have is a K&N stuck on the throttle body. The computer will not recognize the injector size. This is not plug-n-play. If you use the GM ECM you would need to get yourself a prom burner and some software and burn proms to alter the programming, which you will want to do. But my advice, since you are building this motor up from parts, is to use MegaSquirt. It's cheap and a lot easier to make changes to (no prom burning). It's a SD type system and will run a tpi just fine. Do a search and you will find that Moby-the-Van has got a tpi motor running on MS.

Just an FYI, there is a pre-fab kit for subframe connectors that is available in multiple levels of reinforcements all the way up to cutting the top off. It's made by Hollywood Motorsports and you can get it through Eric at Zparts.com You pay a premium for having someone else cut up your metal for you though. Most people, yours truly included, have done it themselves with a tape measure and a portaband for a fraction of the cost of the kit.

Dude. What a downer. I blame Mark with all the "Toro" cracks. See you next week.

You would need to put a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) in your T5 in the spot where your cable goes now. I don't know how involved that would be. Maybe call a couple local tranny shops. After you have that it's easy, two wires. Either that or something like a Cable X that works in reverse.

The only way a snipping program is going to "guarantee" you win is if your bid is the highest, simple as that. No one is going to lose an auction on ebay to a lower bidder. You lose, you complain, you're a whinner. If you really want it that bad bid higher next time. Good on ya Dr.H. Now get that baby bolted up and smoke some Goodyears.

What about the two cam 4.6 motor? Does it give up much to the four cammer? It must offer more clearance.

John Washington of Reaction Research produces the Velo Rossa kit that features the the full tilt front end of which you speak. http://reactionresearch.com/automotivedetails.htm Advantages are cleaner nose and better engine and front suspension access. Disadvantages are that it deviates from the original Ferrari design. Johns car is not a "replica" as it is a spyder (convertable). Ferrari never produced the GTO in a spyder body. If you want a hard top with the full tilt nose John will be happy to sell you just the parts you want.

And money, don't forget the money. I've got just bags and bags of money. Please note, I'm not gay in the homosexual meaning (sit down Scott) I'm gay in the stupid meaning, like, "That's so gay".

Quite wimpering like a BIG BABY! "Oh I don't know what to do! Oh my pretty car! Oh what will I do?" Quit wasting board space with TWO threads on the topic already! Stop your blubbering and BE A MAN and whip out the Sawzall.

This one's pretty round.

(speachless)!

LMAO Welcome to HybridZ. I think I'm gonna like reading your posts. Have you met strotter yet?

Bingo. I love the "little E-type". It was my first choice to do the "big motor, little car" thing to. Then I searched the web for others that tried it. I couldn't find a finished example and most people had spent tons of money getting it to the "not yet running point". Then I found this place.

If you do your own drive shaft sectioning and welding make sure you get the u-joint phasing correct. Some people miss this. Just my experiance: I've done two V8Z swaps, both with aluminum drive shafts, and have no driveline vibration in either.

2nd that.

Just for perspective since I'm a 305 tpi guy: 4.3 LT1 makes 200rwhp 5.0 TPI makes 225rwhp ('90-'92) And the tpi delivers Hefty Bags full of torque way down low in the rev band ( and, yes, runs out of breath at about 4500). MHO, if you have a 305 tpi drop it in and have fun. You can always swap it out for a 5.7 LT1 later.

The T5 is sweet, and lighter than the T56 by a good bit. But if you plan to abuse it have it built before you bolt it up. Any good tranny builder can make it stout enough with the variety of aftermarket goodies out there for T5. The T56 is tough enough right out of the box, and a tight shifter for a top loader. But having built and driven a LT1/T56 Z, all that torque in such a light weight package makes six gears superfluous IMHO.