Dan Juday

I thought my only problem is that it needed to be bled. What I got: sbc, T5. I put it together just like it says in the JTR manual. Got the Tilton MC, 3/4". I was so sure I had air in there I couldn't get out that I finally disassembled and reassembled the slave while submerged in a bucket of DOT 3 while pumping more through the MC. My hands will never be the same. And this is not easy from under the car (wife helped). I know I have all the air out now. But: with 3/4" stroke on the MC, full pedal travel, I get about 3/8" travel at the slave. Clutch will not disengage. All parts are brand spankin' new. Help, please. Pete, Mike, anybody? I want to get this part working before the exhaust is installed.

I thought my only problem is that it needed to be bled. What I got: sbc, T5. I put it together just like it says in the JTR manual. Got the Tilton MC, 3/4". I was so sure I had air in there I couldn't get out that I finally disassembled and reassembled the slave while submerged in a bucket of DOT 3 while pumping more through the MC. My hands will never be the same. And this is not easy from under the car (wife helped). I know I have all the air out now. But: with 3/4" stroke on the MC, full pedal travel, I get about 3/8" travel at the slave. Clutch will not disengage. All parts are brand spankin' new. Help, please. Pete, Mike, anybody? I want to get this part working before the exhaust is installed.

Yes Jack, I'm sure he has it. And yes Davy, he'll want a ton of money for it. They're rare. If you have an original Scarab built car with a tracable serial number, and a broken bellhousing, you'll pay it though. You'll have to e-mail him to get a price.

IMHO it would be far easier to make the V8 smog legal than to re-convert. Yes, JTR explains this. If that is a concern, I'd look at a stock TBI set up. Easy to convert, easy to make legal. NOTE: the word "easy" is used here as a relative term.

Eric at Zparts has one. http://www.jps.net/zparts/home.html

Idaho, Sorry for doubting you. I bought it today at Napa! $5. After looking at it I now understand. Yes I did have to make some minor adjustments, easily done on the drill press. Thank you, thank you, thank you. You saved me work and money. That's important to me because, as I've said before, I'm cheap and lazy.

Idaho, please don't be offended for me asking this, if you are sure about this the adapter must look like a helicoil. The Datsun coller almost screws into 3/8 npt. Are you sure it's not 1/2 npt? I'm taking those part #'s to Napa tomarrow. I hope you're right. You'll save me a ton of work!

Yup, Pete's got it figured out. That's the same direction I was going in. One thing I might add, if you want to avoid any re-engineering of motor placement. Before you cut off the Datsun towers, fab up a set of JTR motor mounts and make yourself a jig, a chunk, or several chunks of metal welded together, to represent the motor block. Really only the mount area. Then add pieces that attach it with bolts or screws to the frame rails or shock towers. Then when you are ready to weld in the Camaro towers you can bolt them to your jig and locate the motor perfectly in the JTR position.

I appreciate your work on this Jason. I'm in a predicament right now over this very issue. I installed my motor before addressing where I would install the sending unit. Now I'm stuck. I have no other good place to put it but in the side of the head where GM put it. But, on later motors, (mine is a '91) the hole is 3/8 npt. I made the adapter per JTR, but I can't find a 45/64" drill bit short enough with a 3/8" reduced shank that will fit between the head and the shock tower. This motor came out of a well running wreck and I don't want to pull the head to do this. Plus, I'm lazy. That's a lot of work! Lets get the brain trust on this board working on this problem. There must be an easy way to put a thermister in that circuit that would work. Or, If anyone knows where I can get drill bits made to order, cheap?

Nobody else mentioned this. Please, definately, for safety sake, do one at a time. Take your time and don't rush. This is one of the more dangerous jobs you can do on a car. Mainly because it seems so easy. Have someone around just in case. You can't get to the phone to call 911 when your hand is clamped between the motor and the car. Sorry, don't mean to be so graphic.

Hey guys, I did it today. This is what I did. Pulled off left header and looked inside port with a mirror and flashlight. I just watched the valve open and close while a friend rotated the crank with a ratchet wrench. I took 2 or 3 complete cycles to be sure. You have to talk to yourself while it's going on,"exhaust stroke, valve open, intake stroke, valve closed, ect.". You feel kind of silly, but it works. One more item off the countdown list!

It's glued on with the factory silicone and not leaking. Let sleeping dogs lie.

Well, I have a couple things working for me. I don't have the exhaust system on yet. I have to pull off the left side header anyway (have to drill and tap the hole for my temp sender to 1/2"npt. Later motors like mine were 3/8"npt. Should have done this when the motor was out.). And, my motor is bone stock. So, I'm assuming that GM got the marks right on the balancer. Given that, what do you think?

Hey, Mike C. No argument on the distributor alignment. But what about my proposal? Is it a fool proof way without removing the valve cover? Dan

How about this: Pull #1 spark plug. Rotate the motor until balancer is at tdc. Put a rubber hose (like fuel line) into plug hole and blow on the other end. If you can hear air blowing through the intake or exhaust manifolds rotate the motor 360* and try again. If you are on the compression stroke both valves will be closed, right? If on the exhaust stroke both vales will be open at tdc (overlap), right? What do you think? will this work?

What's the easiest way. Way back in January when I slid the motor in I pulled the distributor so as not to damage it. Guess I should have marked it. Oh well, help me out guys.

If you can get the key from the car the motor came from just measure the resistance with and an ohmeter. You must also get the vats box out of the same car, about the size of a pack of cigarettes. Be advised: GM hides these deep in the dashboards. A pain to get out. A little extra work to get the stuff, but once you have it, it's easy to subsitute the key for resistors. Cheaper too, that was important to me.

I got a Porsche box! Does that make me special?

My four fenders, and a few verious parts, came from John in a cardboard box, lots of paper, no wood. The fenders were kind of interlocked, (hard to explain). The box was not much larger than one fender. Frankly, when everything was out of the box it was difficult to see how he got it all in there. ZERO damage. I think John has found better shippers. I thought my shipping charges were reasonable.

Hey, I saw one of those today in Napa, the wine country of California. It was white and looked great. Talk to John a lot, he is happy to help.

Here is my advice: If you are going to replace your fuel lines, do it while the motor and tranny are OUT. Big, greasy, difficult job. If I thought there was any other place to run them as safe as the original location I'd do it. Hear what you say about steel. This was difficult enough in aluminum. I would think it would be imposible in steel with the motor in. Dan

Bought a bunch of aluminum today. Wish me luck.

I know this is an old subject, but I want to give the new guys (you old guys too) a chance to pipe up. After all, the population here has almost tripled since I showed up. I planed on using the original lines. Flare the ends and use -6 AN fittings and steel braid. I'm running a stock '91 305tpi. The TA it came out of had 3/8 & 5/16 lines. The Datsun lines are a size smaller but I figured, eh, they're already there, one less thing to do. Well, that 1/4 line don't flare well. Kept splitting. Pretty soon it was too short. So, rats, I tore it all out and now it will be the right size. So, please, offer up your experiences and wisdom and tell me which way to go: steel or aluminum? And where did you run it, same place as stock? BTW, for those of you that haven't seen it yet: http://members.home.net/zcarphotos/djv8zproj/pages/fbs01r16f25rw.html

Lone, I believe there is a kitcar show next month in San Leandro that will have at least one there. Eric, do you have the details on that?

Just heard from Eric. He is going to try and get some pics up on this thread tonight. Taking nothing away from John Washington, (I have a pile of his fiberglass in the garage just waiting)but this is really a different product. You do nothing to the stock dash. It slips over top of it. Attaches with screws on each end that are only visable with the doors open. It spans from the windshield to about the top of the glovebox. The idea is to simulate a look like the Cobra with a windshield mounted on top of a cowl that stretches to a flat,vertical dash. Oh well, I like it. Maybe Eric will get the pics up soon and you might too.