Dan Juday

I have to ditto what DavyZ says. I'm in the middle of my convertion, and probably the easiest part was slipping the motor in. It's all the "little" stuff were all the work is at. If the motor runs, and is cheep do it. Just choose the right tranny now (read OD). Changing to a better motor latter will take a Saturday, topps.

Hey, I was one of those guys! I have $3.50 invested. I bought a brake cable bucket from a bike shop, $1, corner bracket, Home Depot $2.50. I'm using the stock tpi cable, cut off. I need to drill out the bucket slightly to fit the cable. I still don't know how I'm going to connect the cable to the bellcrank though.

Hey BLKMGK, better yet, I used the stock rubber rad mounts from the Camaro. They have a nubbie thing on the bottom. If you drill a hole in the right place on the JTR mount they pop right in and will never fall out!

Found it guys. Yup, small, hard to find, especially on a tpi. The manifold hangs over the top of it about 2" above the surface. No way to screw it in directly. I'm going to try to get a 45 elbow and a coupling but it will still be tight. This would have been easier before the motor was installed, (just like it says in the JTR book).

Jason, what you really need to know is this; Is the stock 5/16" fuel line going to cause enough of a restriction that fuel pressure will drop significantly to the carb (I think you said that you were running a carb) that the bowls would empty before the pump could replenish them. That depends on several factors. Witch is good because then if you do have a problem you can adjust other factors rather than changing your fuel line witch IMO is a big pain. If you don't have a very thirsty motor, if you are not seriously racing, I say try it, use the stock line. If you do fuel starve, change to a stronger pump, much easier then changing a fuel line. This is just my opinion, there are a lot of guys here who are serious racers and have more experience than me.

Thanks Ross, it's Saturday and I'm going to stick my head in there and look around. But I need more than a boss. I need a threaded hole. I'm not going to drill and tap into a finished motor in the car. So if I find a plug, great. If not I'm going to drill and tap the remote oil filter mount. Now where can I find metric pipe taps in this hick town? JTR says it's very close to 1/8"npt but if it is a new hole I'll cut the right threads. So, where on the back of the block is this boss suppose to be?

Ok, SCCA, straighten me out. Pros & cons of wheel adapters? I'm planning on leaving the brakes and suspension fairly stock, may upgrade the front calipers to Toyota. I won't be racing. I would really appreciate your insight.

Your right Jeff. I have the Helm manual and it is pretty clear. But you guys are off topic! Ask your friends, can I put the dang sender there or not?

Ah, sorry have to qualify, ... how do we do it cheep.

Hey Fairlady, I've been thinking the same thing. A set of 17x9.5 Vette wheels would look nice inside my future bulged fiberglass fenders. So help us out SCCA, if we just have to have those Chevy rims, how do we do it?

How you hook it up depends on a couple of things. If you have a carb motor you need two temperature switches, (or a single two stage switch, I don’t know if they make such a thing) and a single pole double throw relay. The first switch closes at the lower temp. + power goes to one wire of the low temp switch, out the other wire, to the common (COMM) on the relay. The low speed wire is then connected to the normally closed (NC) on the relay. The high speed is connected to the normally open (NO) on the relay. Then you power the relay by the high temp switch. This is just one way to wire it. But this way you can't send power to both high and low at the same time and potentially burn out your fan motor. This way the low speed comes on only when the engine gets up to temp. Then the high speed come on when the temp exceeds the trip point of the high temp switch. I don’t know what those temperatures should be. Maybe you tuner guys could help out? Hey Mikelly? By the way, GM made some excellent water proof relays that are readily available at the bone yards cheep. The diagram is printed right on the top and the contacts are labled!

Flowtech ceramic blockhuggers from Jegs $197.90 delivered. Best deal I could find. Bolted right up. I have straight plugs, I've heard they don't fit with angle plugs.

Leave it to me to miss the obvious, thanks BLKMGK. Yes, that would certainly work. But, it is kind of tight down there already. If the remote filter thing would work it would be a lot easier. I'd really like to here someone say that it can't be done for some very good reason. So come on all you kill joys, straighten me out.

Just didn't know how to search the archives for this one. Will front struts for a '75 fit a '73? The part houses show different part numbers. And, what is a good price for a set of Tokico gas struts never installed sitting in a box for umpteen years?

I'll be installing a remote oil filter locator, like many of you have, to avoid removing exhaust parts just to change the oil filter. I have a '91 305tpi and don't have the hole by the distributor that the JTR book talks about. Also, the GM sender by the filter is needed to run the fuel pump. So, I was thinking, can I drill and tap the remote filter mount and put the Datsun sender there? Any of you guys done this? And, what side should I use, before or after the filter?

Hey, I just had the same question. First, don't cut off that Ford connector! Get both sides and that way if the motor dies you can just plug in the new one. On the wiring, look closely at the wires coming from the motor. Some have three wires all the way to the connector. Some have four wires from the motor and two are spliced together so you end up with three at the connector. You need to pull or cut off the corrugated black plastic covering to really see what’s going on. One wire will be solid black, no stripe, this will be the ground. If you have four wires the two to one splice will be high speed, the remainder is low. If none of this helps do what I did. I walked into the service dept. at my local Ford dealer and asked if the had a wiring diagram for my year. They where happy to help, took 10 minutes.

Make sure you get the blinker fluid reservoir out of a '74 Vega. By far the highest horsepower to weight ratio of any GM produced. Sorry, that just made me laugh like crazy. Welcome to the screw ball club! Dan

Thanks Jeff, Well you asked for it. Wiring the cooling fan. The tpi uses two fans. I will be using the two speed taurus fan. There are basicly three wires to the motor(s), main fan, aux fan, and ground. The problem is that the Chevy powers both fans at the same time sometimes. The Ford is either-or, high or low but not both at once or you fry the motor. Everybody following this? So, I can wire the relays in series, (the contacts) and use the normally closed set on the aux relay to turn off the main fan when the aux is powered. Everybody lost now? So, the only problem would be if for some reason the ECM would power the aux without the main on first. Does anybody know if this could happen?

Well, I pumped 3 pints of DOT 3 through mine and I still don't have it bled. So I need help too. You guys with working clutchs help us out! Dan

OK Drew, here is everything on the tag: SERV. NO. 01227730 AXXF 863091 M110441908 16163091 AXXF It is out of a '91 Firebird GTA 305tpi w/auto.

Drew, where do I find this number? I don't see a 747 or 787 on the box or the chip. On the chip I see Delco AXXF 3076. ? Dan

Thanks guys, yes, SES-Service Engine Soon, or Check Engine light. Do you know what Chevy does? Is the ECM for a 5 speed different than for an auto? I realize I may be nit picking here, and should just leave the dumb light out. I'm new to fooling around with FI motors. How do I access the computer codes to see if everything is operating properly? What kind of equipment do I need? Along that same line, I'm installing the ALDL connector, and I have two wires on the connector that don't go to the motor. Do I need these? Any help is appreciated. I will re-post on the Chevy board if I don't many responses here. Dan

I know you guys are out there. Maybe we need a dedicated TPI/TBI forum. Here is my question: I have all my wires finally sorted out except one. You guessed it, the Park/Neutral switch. Here is my twist. The motor had an automatic behind it in the TA I robbed it from. I bolted a T5 in its place. Now, I would like to wire in a SES light just to let me know things are all right. If I ground it, according to the JTR-TPI/TBI book it won't run right. If I cap it the book says the light will stay on. What do I do guys?

Pete is right on. Use relays for head lights and electric motors. Map lights and brake lights need only a fuse.

DavyZ, My Taurus fan came with the motor package from the yard. The yard I got it from, in Stockton, has at least one more. $100.