Capt_Zorro

Need to leave a little room for the heater hoses if you drive it on the street. If it's just a drag car won't matter.

IK, A good friend of mine put a 302 in his ZX using a similar mount to the one I posted for the Z. He had to move the engine back and down some for clearance. Used a tight tuck header on the passenger side but had to remake the driver's side. If I can ever catch him when he's not busy I'll try to get some info on it. Adios Amigos,

Ares, The gist of this post is that it seems that "hitman" has hit the road with his project. If you want to do the Ford V8 conversion you'll have to fabricate a few parts and hit the junkyard's a little for some more. If you've got the time it will work out cheaper for you than having someone put together a "Kit" that you can do yourself. If you hit the search function at the top of the page and type in "Ford Motor Mount" it'll bring up the info I've posted and a bunch of other good tips that the other guy's have posted. Basically all you need is the motor mounts, trans. mount, "tight tuck" headers, remote oil filter kit, rear sump oil pan and pickup, off a Mustang works good. You'll have to shorten your driveshaft and use the correct universial joint's, any good driveline shop can do it for you for usually less than $75.00. I used a shifter for the C-4 out of an old Must. II and bent a rod to fit for the linkage. A new throttle linkage, radiator, trans oil cooler, exhaust system and if you have a 280Z you'll have to put in a pressure regulator to drop the fuel pressure. As I've said before if I were doing this again I'd move the engine back a little more for crossmember clearance and If you are doing a manual trans. it will help with locating the shifter in the trans tunnel. A buddy of mine did one with a T-5 a couple years ago and by moving the engine back and down a little he said that the shifter looked like it was made to fit the Z. If I can help you with anything drop me an e-mail. Adios Amigos,

I put up some plans for a simple mount for the Ford V8 on the forum about 6 or 8 mo. ago. There's not a lot to doing one, if I can figure it out anyone with a little mechanical ability can also. I did my mounts with a Harbor Freight bandsaw and a Daytona Mig 110 unit about 15yrs. ago. The main reason I haven't made a kit is product liability. If someone screws up and get's hurt in a car that has your kit in it a good lawyer can "wear you out". I just got out of a $350.000 lawsuit last year that had gone on for 6 years. I don't need anymore of that entertainment for a long time.

Most parts stores have a remote starter switch that you can clip onto the solenoid to crank the engine. Usually about $10-20.00. It looks like a pistol grip with a trigger on it.

There are some of the DOHC Mod. Motors showing up now that are reasonably priced. Saw one for around $1,500 the other day out of a Lincoln. Don't know if they will fit in a Z tho, I'll have to get some dimensions on my Son's MK VIII when I get a chance.

For you guys on the West side J&G Sales http://www.jgsales.com has .308 for $90.00 a thousand in 5k lots. East coast check with Aim Surplus http://www.aimsurplus.com are good folks to deal with. Also local gunshows are a good bet, I ran into a guy a couple months ago that was needing to raise a little capital for a gun he wanted and got 2K for a good price. What you have to watch for is shipping, it can run about half what the ammo costs if you aren't careful. If you are interested in learning something about what to shoot it in check out http://www.gunboards.com for info. Adios Amigos,

When they originally came out the Ford dealer told me that the T Bird had an intake that was more restrictive than the Mustang and that was the dif. in the h.p. rateing. Don't know about the camshaft, I know that the changed the cam from year to year tho. It was supposed to be a roller cam motor. Adios Amigos,

It's on hold for right now, trying to get the '47 Ford running before cold weather. Got the 460 motor and C6 trans. back in, have the brakes rebuilt and plumbed, air bags installed, and the exhaust about half done. Still need to get a new rack and pinion, and plumb the gas line. Then should be able to put the body back on the chassis. There were two diffrent lengths of AOD from what I can find out. A longer one was used in some of the Linclon's. The main problem with the AOD's is the TV linkage. It has to be right "on the money" or you can burn up the trans. Lokar makes a cable and I think baunermann?? or something like that makes the conversion linkage for a Holley or Edelbrock carb. to get the right ratio. Adios Amigos,

DL, Looks like you have it all laid out. Need a wheelborrow to carry the money in. The only thing I'd suggest is going with a higher rear gear, a 5 speed or an AOD tranny. I've had a C-4 in mine for years and it's the only thing I'd change. If you are planning on driveing it quite a bit the 3:55 is a little low for interstate cruising. Mine turns about 3500 at 75mph. with the largest dia. 14" 60 series tires I can find. It'll run top end whatever your engine will turn or whatever your pucker factor is... Adios Amigos,

The Makarov has become quite popular with shooters and collectors due to it's practical design and different variations. The 9x18 is a good self defense caliber, not as good as the 9x19 of course but a good balance of power for weight. There is a good webpage for info at http://www.makarov.com/ Adios Amigos,

I'm like the other guys, hate to see you sell out. How long are you going to be deployed? See what it would cost to rent a storage bld. for your stuff till you get back. When I was in Vietnam one of the things I looked foward to was getting back to the world and being able to hit the road again. Maybe we can get some of the guys to chip in to help you rent some space while you're gone. Adios Amigo.

I celebrated by adding a folding stock and bayonet to my AK. Just remember that if you are going to add the "evil features" to a post-ban rifle it must still have the required number of U.S. made parts to be legal. Adios Amigos,

The Mustang swap sounds like a good idea. I've had an old 302 C-4 in mine for years. Took a junkyard 302 bored it .30, ported and polished a set of C9 351 heads, aluminum intake, Carter AVS carb, tight tuck headers and a shift kit in the trans. Used a junkyard radiator and electric fan. Did most of the work myself and ended up with less than 1K in the conv. As far as adding additional weight to the car, I had to cut a coil off the front spring on mine to get it to set level again. The Ford sits further back behind the front corssmember and helps the weight distribution. I still get a kick from pulling up along side a BMW or Porsch and have the driver become interested in tuneing the radio, calling on his cell phone or stare straight ahead.. It runs good up to about 130 with the 355 gear and 6000 rpm red line. I've been thinking about freshening it up this winter and getting a T-5 for it. Got the fuel injection, wireing and computer out in the truck. Been chasing sparks at the firestation between runs. The guys up at the machine shop have a set of DOOE 351 heads that I installed screw in studs and guide plate. They are adding 194 and 160 stainless valves for me. Anyone have any idea what would be the best camshaft for this application? Would like from around 3000 to 6500 power band. Adios Amigos,

The guy's are correct, I helped a buddy replace a couple windshields in my younger days. He was an old country boy that ran a low budget garage and would tackle about anything for a buck. Think we broke about two windshields getting them out or back in. He would use piano wire to cut around the rubber, it worked but was a PITA. Luckily he had a couple more wrecked cars that had windshields so didn't cost him anything to replace them. Adios Amigos,

I think Eastwood makes an infrared heater for large pieces. Or you could check in your area for a powdercoater, they have large ovens that can even do frames. The clear would work on an intake, but it will change the color somewhat. Several manf. are now using the "chrome" or bright silver to powdercoat their manifolds. I saw some at the Nats South and they look good, don't have to worry about trying to keep them clean all the time. The powdercoat is tougher than "chicken lips", isn't bad to stain like the normal intakes will. I used an old Mustang II shifter on mine with the stock boot, worked good for years. Adios Amigos,

Looks good Amigo, I think you can get a remanf. 5.0 H O starter from Auto Zone for around $60.00 exchange. The guy I got mine from told me that if I didn't have a high torque starter to exchange to just put a starter in the box and bring it back. That's a lot cheaper than buying a powermaster. If you are going to use your cast iron manifolds I'd suggest sandblasting, and then powder coating them. Eastwood has high temp powder coating now for around $20.00 for 8 oz. should be more than enough to do a couple manifolds, and maybe an intake. You can get the powder coating gun from Harbor Freight for $60.00 if you catch them on sale. http://www.eastwoodco.com/index.jsp I did my tight tuck headers and pulley's with it and was pleased with the results. Found an old stove that the oven worked good on that a guy gave to me. The chrome silver with a clearcoat on it will be a killer color for an intake manifold. Won't have to worry about gas staining the aluminum, and constant polishing to get it to look acceptable. Adios Amigos,

Bill, It is possible for it to run backwards as the cylinder approaching tdc is fired by compression instead of spark, also possible for two cylinders to fire at the same time. Needless to say it can be hard on an engine for it to diesel on. We used to just back the timing down a couple degrees to compensate for the carbon buildup, lower octane of the gas and it would eliminate the problem. Adios Amigos,

Went back to the junkyard yesterday to get the wiring harness and computer off the LSC that the 5.0 HO I got last month came out of. Found that the computer harness runs into the pass side fender area. We had to remove the fender to get the computer harness out. Also found a Wasp nest in the dash, was good for a couple laps around the car before we could stop long enough to get the carb cleaner to solve the problem. I picked up the book on Ford fuel injection by Probst, looks like there are a couple changes in the pin hookup between the Lincoln and the Mustang computers. Also got the How to modify and tune Ford fuel injection, it has a breakdown of the wire colors coming off the computer that will be helpful if they match up... Anyone ever post a schematic of the hook up of the EECIV and Datsun Z interface? Looks like about 8 hot wires will have to be hooked up, start, run, fuel pump relay, oxygen sensors, power relay, coil, & keep alive pwr. Adios Amigos,

80LT1 is correct, the dryer will need to be replaced. I had a hard time finding one that would work. Ended up costing about $55.00 for it. A good auto parts store will have air cond. flush. It's an aerosol like brake cleaner with a flexible line and plug that will fit into the lines. You have to disconnect the compressor and condensor lines and blow them out with the cleaner. Then use compressed air to finish drying them out. I did mine last month, flushed out the system, had some new lines made up to go from the Sankyo compressor to the Z car system. I think PEG oil is recommended to use with the R134 but better check to make sure. Pulled a vacuum on the system for about an hour and then charged it up. It promptly blew an "O" ring in the evaporator... the way my luck has gone here lately I should have expected it. When my broken finger gets better I'll have something to do. Probably be cold weather by then tho. Adios Amigos,

John, If you are new to welding I would suggest getting a MIG, it is alot easier to learn to use. They are great for sheetmetal and regular steel. I have a TIG unit that I use for welding Stainless and Aluminum, but it is like "patting your head and rubbing your tummy". With the TIG you have to feed the filler metal in manually, the MIG feeds it in automatically. What are you planning on welding? How much do you want to spend? Adios Amigos,

I've been making stainless steel air intakes for the Lincoln LS for the last two or three months and the main disadvantage I've found is that it is hard on tooling. It'll wear out a bandsaw blade or a cutter on a lathe in no time. Advantage is that it'll look the same from now on without having to polish it all the time. It will weld nice if you know what you are doing and purge the inside of the tube when you weld it. Adios Amigos,

This has been a tough week for the Old. Capt. Wed. morn about 08:30 we answered a wreck and had to cut the guy out with the Hurst tool. I was using it to push the truck away from a tree and it slipped and either broke or dislocated my ring finger. One doctor says one thing another the other, all I know is it's sore. (strike one) Today my Son and I were getting ready to work on the old '47 Ford. We jacked up the front end and put it on jack stands and started to jack up the back before crawling under it to do some welding. One of the supposedly 6 ton front jack stands broke dropping the car about three feet onto the floor. (strike two) Went to the auto parts and picked up some more stands and jacked up the car without any trouble this time. Got the engine hoist and pulled the 460 off the engine stand and dropped it down to hook up the C-6. Got the bellhousing bolts in and started to lift it up to crawl under it to attach the torque converter bolts and it tipped over breaking the trans. case. (strike three) depending on how you look at I guess it was good luck. Adios Amigos.

Llama, Yep, you go right through Knoxville on I-40/75 on your way to Pigeon Forge / Gatlinburg. The "Shades of the Past" street rod show is coming up the weekend of 10 -11 Sept. So you could take in a great car show and hit some of the junkyards also. Adios Amigos,

Hit a couple junkyards today, found another HO for $500.00. It's an 86 or 87 model complete with wiring harness and computer, mileage unknown. It will turn over but isn't getting any fire, won't crank but the yard will gurantee it to be good. The guy doesn't know for sure which year it is, will have to check the cylinder heads to be sure. The 86 was sort of a "bastard year" had forged flat top pistons with the valves sitting higher in the heads. Can only run about .450 lift on the cam without cutting valve reliefs in the pistons. Also had the early speed density instead of Mass Airflow computer. Drop me an e-mail if you're interested and I'll pick it up for you. Adios Amigos,