Hugh

280zx diff holds 700hp?? I don't know about that. Anyway, for the most part... R200 is R200. The ring and pinion shouldn't be all that much different. If you put a nice Limited Slip unit inside a 240sx R200 housing, you will have a severely strong unit. Making a Z diff fit a 240sx would be a bitch anyway... its a long nose and no bolts would line up... you'd need a custom driveshaft I bet, too.

Shouldn't be too hard... I think I've seen that swap on the internet. I don't know a link, you may just want to google til you find pics of it. 350hp from an SR20DET is very possible with a nice sized turbo like a GT25R or something. (bolts to stock turbo manifold) You can run it at 350hp with stock internals and it won't blow up for years (with proper tuning) Plus the tranny will still be pretty reliable at that power level. It would be a really cool car to drive, thats for sure.

They make a box specifically for the SR20DET... thats the one he was breaking. I guarantee it wouldn't survive in an 8 second car, thats for sure!

It's pretty easy to bolt the manifolds on with the motor installed... I would assume. You'll have more room than the original car the engine came out of, and I had plenty of room to pull the manifolds in my old 180sx. (of course its easier if you pull the motor though... maybe you should just do that)

http://www.300below.com/ Read and learn. They are like the pioneers of the industry. There's a lot of good tech info on their site. It doesn't make the metal more brittle. The metal's temperature is lowered very gradually over like 12 or 24 hours or something. (I forget how long) and then it is re heated in the same manner. Its not like flashing a piece of molten metal into a water bucket... that makes it hard but brittle. This makes hit hard and less brittle.

I love redline in my trannies. Just don't use shockproof, as it will make the synchros worse. Some regular redline MT would work nicely.

Manufacturing companies also use it for tools. They found that cryo treated drill bits and cutting blades last like 14 times longer or something like that.

I can't see doing this with a turbo... but there are plenty of superchargers out there that do exactly what you're talking about (I'm assuming you know this, though) I prefer turbo because once it reaches efficiency, your boost controller keeps it at it's efficiency point until you're done using it. Sure, the supercharger would be nice to get that immediate boost, but the way the boost rises and drops in each gear irritates me. A properly tuned turbo motor is taking advantage of everything the turbo can give it all the time after it spools. (great for drag racing, since you just two-step it to spool off the line )

Thanks a lot! Thats perfect.

I've heard of some pretty amazing results people have seen in racing. Many race teams are using cryo these days. It's not voodoo science or something. It really does work. A great story I heard was of a tractor pull team with a triple turbo huge displacement motor running 45psi of boost. They had to rebuild the motor and replace a lot of stuff every season before cryo. Once they cryoed every part of the engine, turbos and all... they didn't rebuild for three full seasons and were on their fourth when I heard the story. The FWD SR20DE guys have seen great results from Cryo and Shot-peening their stock transmissions. They had a lot of trouble keeping them together, and this seemed to be the most effective trick the used. I will be cryoing a LOT of parts of my engine and drivetrain. It's good stuff, relatively cheap and fast.... and there's no reason I can think of not to do it. (aside from everything having to be completely disassembled for the process.)

You can get the "Topspeed" manifold off ebay for a lot cheaper, but you get what you pay for. It's much better than stock... but making it work as well as the greddy requires a lot of port work. I've also heard of some of them leaking through the porous casting because its not casted so well.... but many people are using them with very good results. The Greddy or Topspeed knock-off will give you a bit more top-end power... it holds the peak power out for a couple hundred more RPM (right up top where it counts, too!)

I knew a guy in Japan who ran a shop and had a drag Silvia. He was putting out ballpark 450-500hp at the wheels with a T04R on an SR20DET. He had a Quaiffe 6-speed tranny. He was having problems with it breaking and decided to sell it. When I asked him to sell it to me, he wouldn't.. because he was sure I'd be breaking it too. (my 180sx was a tad over 400rwhp at that point) He twisted the input shaft a couple times and completely snapped the output shaft three times. One of the output shafts went the first day he raced on it. Now granted, this guy was launching at like 7000 or so and wrapping it out to 9000 or more before he shifted on a weighted OS Giken twin plate flywheel.... but still, he was breaking them like its cool. Since then, I've been afraid of Quaiffe trannies for the SR20DET for that fact.

So what engine management do you guys plan to run on these V12's? I know there's several out there that can do it (like the Tec3 and Haltechs) but I'm just curious.

Who should I speak with about changing my name? I don't own my 180sx anymore... and I don't use 1bad180sx anywhere else anymore. I would like to just go by "Hugh" if possible... but if thats taken, I can handle "Hugh 240z" If anyone can hook me up, that would rock! Thanks!

I sold a set similar to those on Ebay for like $45.

It takes fuel to make horsepower. Any properly tuned engine thats not making much power will be efficient, for the most part. When I put a T04S on my SR20DET, my gas mileage went up a lot during daily driving. However, I was making so much power while boosting that mileage there sucked real bad. Running a big turbo gives you a lot of cruising space in the lower RPM area. Keeping it down there keeps mileage up a lot. Another thing is, having a big turbo means you don't want to spool it up in traffic... as you will go from slow to break-neck speeds very quickly, and be sitting in somebody's trunk if you're not careful. I love the slingshot feel of a big turbo on a small motor. I used to be against lag like you wouldn't believe... then someone let me drive an RX7 witha huge turbo that didn't spool until like 5000rpm. He was just trying to make a point that lag doesn't bother him. I drove it, and I about lost my mind when it spooled up. It was amazing. I couldn't believe a car could be so mild mannered and then pull a Jeckyl and Hyde switch like that! After driving his car, I immediately began work on a big turbo setup for my car. Now when I drive cars with little turbos and good response, I get bored.. I'm wondering "When is the power supposed to kick in?" but it never does.

Well, if this is a big problem for you... then you shouldn't be considering a small displacement turbo engine. The bigger the turbo, the more power.. but the more you have to rev it to make it go. It's one of those things you will have figured out very quickly while driving it. Certainly a larger displacement motor with more torque a few thousand RPM earlier is going to be more impressive for the first few feet... but that ain't gonna make the car "faster". It just makes it feel nice coming off the line easy. Another thing to consider is the SR is running much smoother and more efficiently in that range... under the boost. You gas mileage may not be all that important to you if you don't daily drive your Z... but a well tuned turbo 2.0 liter uses a lot less fuel to get you down the street to work or whatever. Sorry, not trying to get off on a tangent here.

No matter what you're putting in, it can all be fixed in tuning. On a stock motor with stock computer and such, it seems that a good Walbro fuel pump is enough to keep an SR20DET running right. (the pump increases fuel pressure a bit) They're tuned pretty rich from the factory, anyway.

I installed the switch today, everything worked except the right rear blinker. Turns out the guy had a "custom" wire for that one. I went ahead and hooked it up as he intended, and all is well! I'm loving having blinkers that work. This is great. Thanks again, Scott!

It's just a big misunderstanding, thats all.

They actually click! You should've seen me trying to get them to work when the cop asked me. It was pretty embarassing. I'll get them working today and hopefully get this thing signed off at the po-po station.

I'm pretty sure you would already know this, but the quick fix for when the lock feels like it doesn't want to turn is to rock the key back in the opposite direction all the way... then try again. For some reason that always works easily for me. However, its a good idea to re-lube as per Warren the Keyguy's instructions. He sounds like he knows what the hell he's talking about.

This will give you a good idea of the sort of fun I had with my SR: http://66.194.152.253/~videof6/features/hugh/zeroyonSep03-linelock.mpg

http://www.zeroyon.com Thats my website, click on Tech and follow the link to Service Manuals. As far as an SR powered car being sluggish off the line.... heh heh.. my old 180sx had 395rwhp, 362ft/lbs of torque... Rev it and drop, and that sucker ripped. Just to give you an idea, here's a video of my old car on the short track: http://66.194.152.253/~videof6/features/hugh/1bad180sxVSskylineGTR.mpg Bear in mind, that car was clearing nearly 3000 pounds with me in it.

Snap on cover? Oh my....