Hugh

It's not TBI, its sequential multi-point or whatever... injector per cylinder with one throttle body. You would most likely lose power if you put carbs on the RB... the EFI system is good. I don't think they would know your car was turbo, anyway...

Anybody ever modify one to mount a short-nose R200 in there? Thats a great bunch of pics there, thank you.

Can't Nissan do this for you? I went to Nissan with my old 240sx once. The guy looked at my key (just looked at it!) and went back and made a new key for me. It worked perfectly. My old key was worn down a couple millimeters, too. He just knew how to read the code from the shape of the key. I asked him, you been doing this for a while? He says "Just 15 years"

That would be very cool. I'd like to see it. However, I think that growl of the WRX is funny... its a deceiving sounding engine... you think its just cruising along, but its actually flying by when you look at it. I call it a "lazy" sounding engine.

The diamond cut lights I'm talking about are made by Toucan, if that helps anyone. Great product for cheap, really. The comparison between those and sealed beams is literally like night and day.

The CA has an iron block. The SR block is aluminum with steel sleeves. The CA has a more direct valvetrain making it capable of revving pretty high, as long as the bearings don't fail on the rods. This high revving capability is useless, unless you have an inordinately huge turbo, making the car unstreetable, because the motor doesn't have any torque. It would be a drag racing only car at that point. The SR valvetrain is the weak point of the motor. A Rocker Arm Stopper kit, which costs about $60-70 now, solves 99% of these problems... and is easily installed in about an hour or two. However, the SR can make well over 500hp before redline on a stock bottom end. A little headwork goes a long way. This motor is much more torque biased, and can spool big turbos reasonably quick. Stock VS Stock, the SR is a full second faster in the 1/4 mile than the CA. The SR20DET can make 400hp dependably on all stock internals (I did it). Doing this with a CA18DET requires a full build... most people drop the money to make it a 1.9 liter and then go into the bolt ons to make a it comparable to an SR20 with the same bolt ons and still stock internals. Now put that money into the SR internals, and it can far surpass the CA. I spent about 5 years in Japan, left there in February of this year. I've raced and worked on many of these engines. I had a theory over there, that "friends don't let friends drive CA's." I found the motor to be very problematic, requires a lot of finesse... and then hard labor to repair it a lot. Comparitively speaking, the CA doesn't stand a chance against the SR. In the HKS Drag Meetings in Okinawa, Japan, I was in the SR & CA class. That was typically 15-20 Silvias and 180sx's. The CA's were always at the bottom of the field. There was one who was faster than me, he had it fully built and was running a Greddy T78 at like 30psi or something. His car was a shop-built track whore, that never showed up at the street races or anything else... just drag meets a couple of times a year. Anyway, he was in the top five of the field, the rest all being SR's. (including me) On the streets, the SR was king over the CA. All the street SR's from the Drag Meets could be seen regularly tearing it up at the street races. They were regular guys like you and me, with insanely fast cars. On the other hand, you see CA's getting beat by Hondas, which is just sacrilige over there. (Hondas are not regarded as good drag racing cars in Japan) All I'm trying to say is, the only people that say they love CA's are CA owners. Many of them already moved on, most of them already moved on. You spend way too much money and time to get the same return an SR would've given you for much less. The initial investment pays off exponentially later on. Anyone I offend with my remarks, sorry. Thats how I feel after several years of hands-on experience with both motors.

That would be pretty cool... but that stock exhaust manifold/turbine housing thing would have to go... It looks too fruity for my taste. Obviously the motor can make gobs and gobs of power, so that would be cool

I was over reacting kinda in a sarcastic manner... Don't take me seriously, bro.

I like the "Diamond Cut H4" assemblies from ebay. They are cheap and VERY bright. I'm using Raybrigs now, but they're designed for RHD, and thats not cool. They are, however, very bright.

I like the "Diamond Cut H4" assemblies from ebay. They are cheap and VERY bright. I'm using Raybrigs now, but they're designed for RHD, and thats not cool. They are, however, very bright.

Well how do you suppose I show you how it turns out? Sheesh... pics is the best I could think of I guess I could make a video of them in action... have someone follow me down the road for comparison sake to other tailights.

Naw, rotaries can run just fine on solid mounts. They're nothing like piston engines. Everything is moving in a circle. Just don't bridgeport it, thats annoying no matter what sort of mounts you have!

Oh, and it works fine at low load, like high RPM in low gears, etc... runs great. It's mostly while cruising in high gears, and then I apply the throttle, or going uphill on the freeway.

If its really cold out (southern california cold) and I hit the throttle in the third or fourth gear around 50-75mph, it will kick and choke. Last night I was just cruising along, and it started cutting out on me, just momentarily.... like bucking as it loses power and then regains it. It did this a lot... and had me thinking. The car ran great in warm weather, but cold air is denser.. and requires a richer mixture. I don't understand how carburetors work (I'm a standalone EFI guy myself) so I don't know if they compensate for weather on their own. Do I need to richen the mixture a bit to fix this? If so, how can I just throw a little more fuel down on it?

I'll post pics when I'm done.

I have different locks of either side of the car, and the hatch is different, too... or the pasenger door is just broken, I don't know. My main key works in the ignition and the driver's door. The other key I got works in the hatch. No key works in the passenger door.

Here you go, 60 ultra white LED's for $15.11 shipped: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4671&item=5734713066&rd=1 I bought 4 orders of them from this guy and he shipped them right out to me.

The wideband sensor controllers most important function is regulating the temperature of the wideband sensor. If you don't have anything that can regulate it right, then it won't read anything correctly. I haven't seen any standalone that can control the sensor itself... I wanted to do the same thing with my Tec3, but Electromotive also told me I must have a controller. I bought the Innovate Motorsports unit, it kicks ass!!

I've been working on this project for some time... but paused on it for a while between work and home stuff... I've fitted 96 Super Bright white LED's into one of my tailight housings. It's incredibly bright. I haven't sealed it up and installed it yet, but bench testing tells me it blows out the stock tailights altogether. Even the viewing angle is fine, because its SO bright, and the stock diffuser actually diffuses a bit of the LED light. I bought my LED's in packs of 60 off ebay from "Kawa" something. Look up super white LED's or something like that... they were $15 or so for 60 LED's, I bought 240 of them.

What about using an electronic trunk cable puller motor? Could you bury it inside the hatch? Then you could just run wires out of the hatch up top like the defroster mechanism... and put the relay and switch wherever you want it. (also letting you tie it into a car alarm) I've been looking at an electronic solution for mine... I'll see what I can do.

No A-pillar support from the cage? The metal work is NICE. Good stuff there. I can't see putting in all that work and not coming up around the windshield, though.

Be sure to tint your windows dark in the back if you have a roll cage. It hides it like 85% of the time, and will keep undue attention off of you. I will be running a roll cage here in Cali, eventually.

Actually, if you look back at the sheet, my torque is listed in Kg. Converted to ft/lbs, its 362ft/lbs. Thats a whole lotta torque for stock internal 2.0 liter with 395rwhp. That dyno sheet is really hard to read because the operator didn't bother to balance the curves on the same scale. This was my old turbo setup, which was a AR.50 HKS exhaust housing with an O-trim T4 wheel, and an HKS T300S compressor (slightly smaller than a 60-1 T04S compressor) I built it from junk used parts with Garrett rebuild bearings and seals. This thing really was pretty ghetto. That was also a rough tune, and I did get more power out of it later on. I went to larger compressor, and ran higher boost. I never got it back on the dyno, because I was getting ready to return to the states. I sold the turbo kit and I'm now getting ready to put together the next setup, the Full-Race kit with their manifold (its a work of art) and their T3/T67, which is like an HKS T04R with a T3 stage 5 exhaust on it in an AR.63 housing. This turbo makes ~600rwhp at 24psi. It also has a broader power band and with cams, will rip past 8000rpm most likely. Once my container comes in from Japan, I will put it together and get to tuning... and start posting dyno sheets again.

Nice work. DId that steering catch on fire?

Either way... that sounds like a narrow power band. (and I only refer to wheel horsepower ratings as well) Here's my last dyno sheet. It was in japan, so its in PS, 399.8rwps = 395rwhp. video: right click and save as http://66.194.152.253/%7evideof6/zeroyonvideos/HughDyno399.mpg