Hugh

Here's another thought - If I have to replace the corner, what about using a 280z corner without the bumper indentation? What about cutting the whole lower rear area off another car, and then putting it on mine in one piece? This sounds scary... as though it wouldn't line up or something.. but it would give the ability to modify the rear valence area while the thing is off the car. (easy access to everything from both sides) Plus I could do a lot of the work while the car is still on the road.

Too bad you can't complete it. You were headed in the right direction. Your skills definitely improved quickly. How long did it take you to do all this? I posted a thread in Body Kits & Paint about shaving the rear end. Would you all take a look at that - my rear end is partially damaged, and I'm trying to get ideas on how to get it started. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110719

Now say that 5 times fast! I like the idea of cutting off what I can, and adding new sheet metal over it. Has anyone ever replaced the rear valence with a flat piece of sheet metal? It would be sweet to eliminate all the holes on the back in one swoop. One more question, do any of the fender flare kits, like the Subtle Z kit, cover the bumper indentations on the sides? (even partially?) I contacted them once to ask, they couldn't send me a picture of the part laid up against the car unfinished. I wanted to see what I would be working with. I feel like if I'm going to do all this work to the back end anyway... might want to add in the flares now. Thanks for the replies. Please feel free to add more... tell me a different way to do it, or post any pics you might have taken of the process.

(edited because I answered my own question) Nice Ride! Wow that thing looks great. Nice dyno sheet, too. Nothing like a beautiful car that goes like hell.

If you're going with a supercharger, you should use a centrifugal type (like a Vortech) Use an aftercooler to keep the temps down. You could pop that motor with a roots type supercharger pretty fast... unless you build it, I guess. Oh, my steering rack is great stock. The car handles beauifully with poly bushings and tokico springs/illuminas

Man, I love your videos. I'm holding my breath for the next one.

Sounds great! I love it! Nice job getting them on there.

yeah, seems like you could buy the $25 refill and fab up the rest for a lot cheaper... I think. Funny idea, though.

Thats a darn good deal, and it looks about the same as the one I'm running in my car. I know mine was like ~$70 at the auto parts store. Can't beat $35!

DAMN, thats mean!

I was about to post in this thread about my car, but started a new thread instead: Check it out if you have any body work advice: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=638142#post638142

Here's what my car looks like now: and here's what I want it to look like: Now where should I start? I know I can buy the replacement piece for the center, and/or get a corner off a junkyard body to have it welded on... but is this the best course of action to take? Replacing with new parts will net me the same bumper holes, and I want all that gone. How would you guys approach this?

Agreed, cooling off between runs to me means letting the engine return to normal operating temperature. (ie: leave the car running between runs, but give a it a minute to cool down)

Hell, I street tuned my Tec3 from just barely running to 395rwhp in only a matter of 3 hours or so. I had no prior standalone experience, either. What was the name of the shop? If they're that bad, put the name out here. I've never seen a shop do that to someone, but I have seen a shop inflate numbers on cars they have tuned. It's always funny to see someone with a 380hp dyno sheet with a fat power curve get wasted by someone with 360hp in a heavier car repeatedly. It was not a fluke, it was the shop who tuned it. We saw the same shop do that time and time again. (this was in Japan, though... but ain't much different)

Is there any alternative to buying new parts for the hoses/vents/etc...? I mean can this be done cheaper with custom work, or is that just something that shouldn't be messed with at all? I don't have any pressure in my tank, I don't think. If I fill over half way I can smell gas all the time.

Oh... emissions, sorry to hear that. I'm pretty happy to be out of that racket. Sounds like you got it calibrated correctly now, you can trust it. Just get that carb figured out now.

This is how I have it wired up right now. The blue going to the ACC wire, and the green going to the IGN ON wire. The red is connected to the white/red stripe battery 12V constant wire. When I turn off the key, it just shuts off. I've tried switching the blue and green wires with no luck. Anyone have any advice?

As far as I understand the instruction manual, ACE 7 is dependent on the TPS only... It's alright, I came up with a TPS connector that will fit with a little modification. I'll put it on tomorrow and go back to TPS adjustments... this MAP Accel enrich is too much trouble. (and TPS works so well) Thanks a million for the help. I may use some of this MAP stuff in conjunction with the TPS, but will weigh heavily on the TPS. I didn't see anything in the instructions about running the Tec3 without a TPS. It seems as though they expect you to run one all the time, no matter what. The DECEL settings only use TPS as well...

OK, I brought it back to 1.1, and it definitely helped according to this datalog: However, it didn't totally solve the problem. The lag time is still evident, just a little shorter. The car is a little more responsive, but I still get that lean spike. I tried going all the way down with that number, and it still has the lag.

Ahhh... I misread your post. I will drop ACE 1 to 1.1 see how it does. I did play with that number, making large changes in either direction but couldn't see a change. I will watch it closer now and see what happens.

Heh heh... no kidding. I don't want my Z to look like a Ferrari, I just want it to look like a cool Z that smokes Ferraris.

I have the Innovate Motorsports LM1 as well. To free air calibrate, you can just do it in the morning or after the car has rested for a few hours and the exhaust fumes are cleared out of the pipe. There's no need to remove the sensor unless its easy to do. When mine seems off, I just hit calibrate before I start the engine in the morning. I would only remove the sensor to calibrate if I'm on a tuning session or something. Mine reads typically like 19:1 or something when its in clean air. 10.6 is not right. Unless, of course, thats what you have sitting in the pipe the sensor is in. Do not hit calibrate with fumes in the pipe, it will give some whacked out readings... my friend almost blew a 360hp turbo motor like that. The sensor read rich all the time... so we kept leaning it out more and more. Eventually I figured out the wideband was off. Once we pulled the sensor, free air calibrated it, and put it back in... the A/F was super lean and ready to pop the motor!

Where is the MAP rate of change setting? Are you talking about ACE 4 above? (I have it set at .5 seconds) I've dug around through all the menus and can't find MAP sensitivity.

Here you go: You can see where the MAP jumps and the RPM takes a moment to rise after that. This is the lag I'm feeling, and the place where the A/F shoots way up.

Aww, damn. I didn't datalog that on the Tec, just on my Innovate LM1. Let me see what I've got from the Tec. Otherwise I may have to go out for a ride and datalog something new. I will try to post a clean little screen shot like that... but if it don't work out I'll just email you the log session. (assuming you have WinTec3 on your PC)