DrSideways

The reason the hot clearance is more is because there is more surface area on the stem than on the ends. Alan

As to what order to do things.... I try and get the ride height very close before alignment. The ride height is really determined by your bump steer range too. So keeping that close important. Then I align the car with the sway bar or bars disconnected. After that and pretty much the last thing before loading the car are the corner weights. Then I have someone connect the bar/bars with no pre-load while I am in the car. Hopefully during the weighing I have not had to raise or lower a corner significantly enough to affect the alignment. Early on when I did have to jack things around a lot I could move something in the car to get closer to begin with while the height and weight was where I wanted. Then realign. Then do a final weight. From there things got easier. Now I can usually adjust the rear corners to get where I want to go. That leaves the front alone:) Now if I can lose some ice cream maybe I can get to to running the car. Alan

Two plumb bobs hanging from the control arm bolts on the front. Make sure the bobs are on the same side of the bolt. ie. inside or outside of the bolt. Must be the same on each one. I lay masking tape on the shop floor for the marks. Then measure between the two and find the front center. On the rear you do the same using the inner control arm tube that runs fore/aft. Now you have two marks on the floor at each end of the car. I use a laser to line up the two while extending the light line a few feet out of each end of the car. This can take some time and patience. You could also use a chalk line. From there I use a sheetrock T-Square to measure out to just beyond the wheels on each side. Then I use the plumb bobs to set the strings beside the wheels from the new marks. It takes time, but I get good results. Yours may vary. It is just easier for me to set this and ride height along with weighing all in the same day. Hope this helps, Alan

Too bad you missed it and it rained. I'm thinking the issue will be taken care of. CMP will tell for sure. A.

Tom, Did you do the track day Monday? Any results from your new shocks? Alan

I finally got to the shop for those photos. These brackets go from the outer frame rail down to the rear suspension inner pick up point area. Hope this helps. Sorry for the less than stellar photos. Alan

I don't have any here. I will try and get to the shop this week. Alan

Looking pretty good. I'm sure this is more economical than the AP setup we were looking at. Alan

I looked up photos of your car to see the rear suspension. Are you sure all of the extra bolts on the mustache bar and lateral connector are tight? I run some additional tubes with rod ends from the frame rail down close to where the back of the control arm bolts to the plates coming down from the top. They come in at about a 45 degree angle when looking in from the rear. I did this to more firmly lock the whole assembly in place side to side. With all of the aluminum parts there are extra fasteners. Make sure they are all tight. Maybe even paint the heads to make sure something is not happening with heat. It will be interesting to see what Koni says when the shocks come back. Alan

So if it is both wheels then you can narrow things down to what connects them both or both have in common. Parts that connect, axles, third member. Things they have in common, tire pressure, tires, shock settings and shocks. Springs and sway bar. Do you run a rear bar? As far as interpolating the deal you would feel the inside wheel on left turns more with your butt. It would be great to see it happening from the outside. Like standing on the hill looking at 5a-b @ VIR. Like I tell my students .... motorsports is a desire and problem solving program. If you don't desire to solve problems it may not be for you. You have gotten other issues solved and you will get this one too. Alan

Inside wheel more or both? Both directions? Alan

OK so this seems to be basic wheel hop. Does it do it in both turning directions? Got any shock dyno results yet? Has anyone outside the car been able to see it happening? Does it happen after jumping a curb like turn 3 @ VIR? So the wheel gets a big bump from the curb and then won't stop bouncing up & down. Which rear control arms do you have? Alan

I hate the SSI valves aren't available anymore. The thing I hate worse is the photo of the dude polishing the valve in a "high speed" drill press with his finger on the paper. I watched Jim Fitzgerald do this and take his index finger most of the way off. They could not save it. Use common sense when around machine tools. Alan

So it would go away if I was riding with him:) Alan

I may have missed this but.... is there any noise associated with this issue? Alan

The general rule of thumb I teach is ..... no down shift for a turn then left foot brake. Multiple turns in the same gear also left foot brake. This works very well especially for someone who is new. Doing it on the street can result in getting your feet mixed up. Try a place where the above guidelines apply and you can calibrate your left foot. When you come to a place where you will use this you place your left foot over (but not on) the brake pedal as soon as you engage the gear which will be used for the next turn or turns. Then you are ready and can take full advantage of the process. Smoother is faster.. Hope this helps. Alan

This is sounding rather peculiar. On one hand it makes it tough to isolate. On the other it raises the chances that when you do find it, it will be simple. Have you checked the drive shaft? Most everything on our cars is solid mounted. A problem there could show up in high torque, high load conditions. Another area you should check is the inner rear control arm bushings. Play up and down or fore/aft can be tough to isolate and cause all kinds of racket/ vibration. Front differential mount moving? The shock insert is being fully clamped in the tube? Insert nut in camber plate clamping to strut instead of spacer? Alan

Does it do it in both directions? Like the left hand turn 3 @ VIR. Or the right carousel @ CMP? This could cut the half shaft out of the possibilities? Has it done this since built? Or is it something that came with developement? Alan

Thanks. Maybe sometime next year I can get back to work on it. No real rush right now though. As for the Koni guys I suggest you get in touch with Lee Grimes @ Koni. He posts here some :http://www.roadraceautox.com/ So you might sign up there and PM him. I don't have an email address for him. I am not sure who locally could dyno a strut insert. Some of the Porsche guys may know. Speedwerks in Thomasville, NC may know of a place. Other than that Koni could. Can't say anything about Ross and his items. However I do normally see two adjustment knobs/screws on double adjustable shocks. I think I am at 500# springs in the front and 450# in the back. I just kept going higher until it felt good and the car would hold ride height going through hog pen. My left rear would touch a bit sometimes with a lighter setup. Not really suggesting you go up, just more of a reference for you. I have the slicks so that makes some difference. When I have to go to radials the process begins again.... @ $1900.00 a set. @%&*#!!! Alan

Tom, These are the same units I have on my car. They are only externally adjustable for rebound. You can get them re-valved from Koni if you send them in. It would be best if you had them dynoed before so you know where you are at. I set mine mine stiffer bit by bit until it quit bouncing going up the back straight @ VIR. I think I am up to #500 in front and #450 in the rear. My notebook is out at the shop. Been a while since I looked at it. Alan

Only for parts and rusty parts at that... Pay me $100.00 to haul it away. Alan

A birdie just told me that one or two of those spoilers could pop up if someone wanted one. PM me for some contact info if you want one. Alan

I'm pretty sure he bought the mold. Alan

You might try doing a PM to TitaniumZ on this site..... Alan

Carbon for the win..... Alan