DrSideways

I have had both. One thing to have from the beginning with these units is a winch for the trailer. No winch and you burn up parts way quicker than tires. I sold Phil the full size 7 1/4" Tilton unit. I now have the 5 1/4" Quartermaster setup. For autocross you would like the full size better with stock type final drive gearing. If you have anything lower than 4.11 and not over 23.5" tall tires you could use the 5 1/4" unit. The button setup with the flex plate is lighter than the small flywheel. I have not done a MOI analysis between the two. The flex plate saves you the starter adapter. With either one starting on and incline will be tough on them. You must make SURE you have room to go and then go. Starting only to roll five feet will do you in. When I roll out of the paddock on cold 23.5" tires and a 3.7 rear gear lighting up the tires is no problem. So I feel with a 4.44 or 4.88 you should get a wild ride:) Hope this helps, Alan

How much do those bad boys weigh?? Alan

Have you tried moving the needles up in the piston just a bit? You can use a dial caliper to measure the first one and then loosen the second one and put the end of the first one to the bottom of the other piston to push the second needle up in its piston the same amount. Make sure the second needle is loose and will move easily. This is a trial and error deal so keep notes and see how it goes. Since you have your wide band deal you should be able to get the idle back in place and then see how it drives. Also check ignition for proper settings prior to making fuel system changes. Try this as is will be cheaper than anything else. Alan

Going to go for some momentum training? Those are fun and can show you a whole new way to attack a track. Hog Pen will never look the same:) Gas, Gas, Gas!!! Alan

No matter about not checking the wipe now. However you might want to double check prior work as it is real $$ when it does not work. The "circular" thing is the lash pad. They come in varying thicknesses to adjust the wipe pattern. They will be ferrous. The part that is buggered up is the top of the retainer. If it was me I would replace that. The guide I am taking about is what is pressed into the cylinder head for the valve to slide up and down in. Tight iron can seize the valve and hold it open for the piston to hit. It can also hold it open ( down in the head) so the lash pad has room to come off. So in the end may cause damage to the piston, retainer, rocker, and lash pad. Now you know why it is important to know what cam wipe is as well as the materials used. I guess it could be worse.... somehow. Having it happen in the shop is better than on track or a long way from home. Make the diagnostic checks and keep us posted, Alan

Not too good for start up. What kind of guides do you have. Looks like the valve may have stuck in the guide and knocked the rocker off. Did you do a proper cam/rocker pattern wipe during assembly? From here stop and figure out these two questions and go from there. If you did not do a wipe pattern then stop and learn how to do one. (not picking on you, just one of those things) If you have cast iron guides then they weren't reamed out enough. The iron guides can be used, but need to have good clearance. If you have bronze guides then that "should" not be the problem. You may install the rocker and turn over and do a leak down checking for damage. Do not just put the rocker on and restart. Keep us posted, Alan

Thanks for the rear profile photos. It appears you have the Frisselle rear set. Seen here: http://www.canepa.com/inventory/racecar_1/Datsun_240Z/index.html I am partial to the Devendorf profile seen here: http://zlalomz.googlepages.com/1154Mid-Ohio-1978-08-27-083.jpg/1154Mid-Ohio-1978-08-27-083-full.jpg The white Primadonna car also has the Devendorf profile on the rear. Looks like you will have a fun car to ride in. Alan

You may want to take a VERY close look at the first threads before sticking a tap to it. If you just tap it what if you are out of synch? A better approach may be to gently file the first threads back some. There is a good amount of threads on down in there. So two less at the front won't be a loss of strength. However if you ar not in synch when the tap gets down to the undamaged threads you will be doing more harm than good. Use a magnify glass and goos light to get a proper idea of what and how far to take action. Good luck & hope this helps, Alan

Any chance on getting that rear profile shot of the rear flares??? From my initial look you may have a set of Devendorf IMSA rear flares. Getting molds made of these and selling some could really help out on the cost of getting your car back in good shape. The pic from the back would let me know exactly what you have. Alan

The 240 unit will not fit the 280 valance. With the turn signals being up in the grill area on the 280 the valance corners below the headlights are much different. The center section is also 280 specific. Les Canaday at http://classicdatsun.com/ has both. Alan

Could you please take a photo from behind one side showing the profile of the rear flare? Good score!! Thanks, Alan

Look at the rod fit to the crank. Wiggle each rod big end front to back and see if you get a clicking sound. This will tell you if the rod is locked on the crank. Use a slender pry bar for the rods that are rotated up in the block. If you have to use a screw driver for this make sure not to chip it. If there is no side to side play then loosen these rod bolts some and and see if the crank will turn. Check the last rod you installed as you had to rotate the crank to get to that one... As you assemble an engine it is a good thing to check this after torque of each rod. Hope that helped, Alan

If it is still under warranty then why not call the original installer for repair/replacement? Alan

I emailed Peter about this today and he said that film is kept @ UCLA film library and has to be checked out to be viewed. So we got a freebie. He also sent a photo of his 510 project. Datzilla he calls it. It has a Chevy V8 with a severe set back in the engine compartment. Looks like it will do the job. Alan

The "operator": Stuck, Hans Stuck. He is the guy driving the M3 on the 'Ring in an Youtube video from last year. His Dad was a driver in Auto Union GP cars in the '30s. Alan

That is Don Oldenburg's site. He is one of the old school guys. He did the comp oil pans for a while and I think you can still get them from him. He also does a trick dual brake master setup for a stock pedal set:) Alan

Here is a bump for the 370 preview. It would be nice if folks in the area could come out and see the car and show some brand support so Modern Nissan can support us in the upcoming year. Thanks, Alan

There is a sneak peek of the new 370Z on December 8th at Modern Nissan. Two of the new Z cars will make their appearance at the dealership after 4 PM. The http://www.triadzclub.com/ has arranged this showing of the cars before their official release for sale to the public. We will have our monthly meeting in the conference room at Modern Nissan on December 8th in lieu of Triad Z Club's normal 3rd Tuesday of the month at Logan's. Please join us and bring your Z to Modern on the 8th for a unique opportunity to see the next generation Z before anybody else in the Triad area! More details to follow. A Map to Modern Nissan can be found here: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=modern+nissan+winston+salem&fb=1&cid=0,0,12560972085123322041&sa=X&oi=local_result&resnum=1&ct=image Try to make it out if you are in the area. This will be the only NC appearance of the 370 Z until sales begin in the Spring. See you there, Alan

Yep. They do discount these prety good. Mine was around $950.00 out the door. If you get a chance just hold one in your hand.... You will find something. A.

Look at a Dan Wesson CBOB. Well made in the US. http://www.czusa.com/product_detail.php?id=66 It may be more than you want to spend, but it is good value for the dollar. Alan

Thanks for the kind words. When I turned that 2:10.02 it was 43 degrees and we had three flying laps after one warm up. Most folks wouldn't have left pit road on those tires either..... I must admit to taking a REAL deep breath after the bridge and before the uphill esses. Tom and Roddy both were doing very good. The track got washed off during the day on Wednesday and it was in great shape for the TT. It was cool to see both of them run so well. Not sure how the Thursday results went other than Jeff Underwood in the R1 powered Locost got 3rd overall. For those of you who have not been to VIR here is a vid of Jeff: http://www.project-seven.goof.com/videos/LCVIRFull907.wmv Maybe Roddy or Mark can post something from their incar. Roddy's should be a real hoot. Alan

I just bought another bottle. I could not find anyone local that had the correct fitting. Who knows if they didn't want to mess with it. Have a fire?? Alan

What's the chance of getting some molds of those rear flares??????? Those are the proper IMSA units from the Devendorf car. It seems the molds got destoyed. Thanks, Alan

+1 Katman would be the GU in Guru on such matters. He has been there done that got the shirt and bumper sticker. Alan

"Right and relativley inexpensive" is your problem. Speed/looks cost $$. how fast / cool looking do you want to be. IMHO I think you should look for a set of old Suspension Techniques springs and maybe some Energy Suspension bushings. It will wear the inside of the tires unless you just drive at autocross events. That is what I did when I was in your shoes. Hint..... Pell grant. What folks are trying to tell you based on oh..... 40 years worth of screwing with these cars and their various issues is that you are wanting cake for cracker budget. Either leave it alone and save $$ until you have enough. Or get more $$. Alan