pcakes55

I have a 73 block that i can pull them out of, PM me if you're hard pressed to find any.

I'm in the process of cutting/welding an oil return line from my turbo oil pan to my N/A oil pan in order to work with my N/A oil pickup tube. Anyways, I noticed on the TURBO pan that there was a bung (in the sump) for what must be an oil temp sensor, but I'm confused because the hole does not go all the way through; thus, the oil does not actually make contact with the sensor. So...is this for a temp sensor? And if so, is it stock? or did the person before me weld it in.

No need to check size, realized someone heli-coiled it to repair it. Only thing is, the new water pump's hole where the bolt goes was for the smaller size bolt. Cleaned up the coil with a tap, opened up the hole on the pump with drill press. Good to go.

Alright..so I'm down to the final stages of my engine build. I went to put the water pump on and everything was fine until the final bolt that holds the water pump to the timing chain cover. The bolt is the uppper-most, left bolt. I seem to be missing this bolt, and neither the bolts with the 12mm head nor the 10mm head will thread into the hole. I'm not sure if someone before me has re-tapped this hole with a slight oversize, or if this is supposed to be. If it is supposed to be this way, does anyone know the thread size? (of course if it has been retapped, I'll have to buy a number of different size bolts and try them out )

I have an entirely built block and I'm right in Hudson, NH. I'd sell it for $2000; machine work was done by R&L up in Dover, have about $3000 into it but I think I'm ditiching my turbo build for an N/a. Just E-mail me if interested- I also have a lot of parts like BIG front mount, down pipe, etc. patmccarthy55@gmail.com

So I just dropped about $3-4k+ on my turbo engine setup and now realize that I should have upgraded everything else before the motor. There's no "trade" section, so I posted it here. Here's what I have to trade: Assembled F54 block, .040 over, dished turbo pistons, lightened/balanced crank and assembly, magnafluxed, powerforce damper, etc. Have about $2400 into short block. Assembled P90 head, resurfaced and pressure checked/cleaned. new valve springs/seals/seats, stock turbo cam micropolished. NPR Intercooler Greddy Type S BOV DP, turbo mani, and many other things. Just about everything minus the ECU to get it running. Here's what I'm looking for in a trade: -coilovers for early 240z -clutch pedal assembly -5spd tranny/driveshaft -AZC brake set-up -Strut bars -roll bar -racing seats (brand name) -front air dam -sway bars Really kicking myself in the A** for getting the go-fast parts before the actually getting the car driving. Don't turn this into a for-sale thread, if you're interested in purchasing PM me only. Thanks-

The autozone near me lends out tools. I think you have to give them a deposit which you get back when you return the tool; I'm sure it the same near you.

By seat pressure do you mean the spring rate? I have a book with the stock spring info but it's at school, I can get it to you tomorrow though. I've never heard of seat pressure though, maybe someone can enlighten me how you would even measure that.

Kind of a debatable question. It's all dependant on your tune, how long you want it to last, and your power goals. (in that order)But 15psi is not farfetched, at all. I say go for it (but get it tuned!).

N/A to EFI turbo (2) N/A to EFI turbo (1) Carb turbo

I'd get them from MSA, comes with all intake/exhaust bolts in one kit for $20. I can let you know how they are when they show up at my house- http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEC05/15-8081

Not the jack your thread, but are the shims used to take up slack in the timing chain? Couldn't you just extend the tensioner? I've never heard of this so I'm curious

looks like SLK tail lights..hm. http://www.easycarblog.com/wp-content/gallery/07_july_2009-slk-wide-body-kit/slk-55-wide-body-rex2.jpg

Yep I got the TPS and pigtail connector, I'll post a link to a write-up in here when I put it all together for anyone interested how to do it.

Hm..I'll have to check out my TB in the morning, I'm not sure what you guys mean by the "wings" On a side note, do both style TPS's have the same pigtail connectors? (I.E. can they interchange? or are they different all together)

What they said. Don't even consider a Z until you at least have a steady job, even if it's just 10-20 hrs/wk while you're in school, it adds up if you know how to manage your money. I'm in the same boat as you, I'm taking about 20ish credits a semester but I'm also working two jobs (just under 40hrs/wk), which is the only reason I can fund my project. However, I saved for about a year before I bought anything. I learned from a previous camaro i had...I spent all my money on the car itself and had nothing left over. Lets just say there's nothing cool about a blown bigblock camaro that sits in your driveway. goodluck with whatever you decide though

Anyone mod a 240sx TPS and/or 280zx TB to work with eachother? I'm debating whether or not I should just get the entire 240sx TB with TPS, but I already have the 280zx TB and I can get the 240sx TPS for next to nothing.

Hm I'm not sure, but its deffinately a good chunk of change compared to $90. I don't know how much of a difference in performance there could be between the two though.

I think what Woldson is refering to is when they spin the crank and see a spot thats out of balance, they place a ball of clay the same weight that needs to be removed on the opposite side and re-spin it to make sure it reads a perfect balance. I think it's an over-kill step to make sure that the machine is accurate before actually drilling into the crank to remove weight, but a good shop will take this extra step. However, I'm not sure what this would have to do with the flywheel..

When balancing the crankshaft, is it balanced with the balancer/front pulley attatched to it? Or do they balance the pulley by itself? I.E. can I have everything balanced minus the pulley, put a majority of the motor back together, and then when my pulley is delivered have that balanced by itself?

If you want it done right, definitely get a torque plate. However IMO, the shop should be responsible for locating this, not the customer.

PM'd Dan.

Found one at JCwhitney, but it says it wont be shipped until 3/19-3/23. I'd prefer to have it within the next week so I can have my assembly balanced before i get back from school vacation.

So I ordered this from MSA last night: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2139 Got an email today saying that they are out of stock, and it will take 6-8 week to get them in. Anyone know of a place to get one similar to this? (in both price and design) I wasn't sure if i should have put this in the wanted section or here, but i figured it would be a good resource for someone with a similar question.

I'm sure he means the craftsmanship is top-notch, but I definately want to know how well it works.