Jolane

I would just do a 305 if it is cheap, running well, and you don't want to spend a lot of money. You can always go to a built up 350 later with a simple swap. Joshua A 305 is a good engine, although power is not as high as a 350 (depending on the 305 and 350). My suburban 350 is rated for ~165HP I believe...pathetic stock!

Thanks Datsunan, I have certainly looked around a lot for ideas on baffling. Although I am not boosting (SBC), I don't want to starve the pump. One method that seems common is trap doors. This doesn't seem to the be fool proof though, since the fuel needs to "hit" the door to enter. Maybe a trip to the JY to look at manufacturers baffling is required. I have seen what a 300ZX Turbo ('85) tank used, it was a spiral of plastic for baffling. How effective this is, I don't know. Probably better than nothing. It seems like the absolute best solution is to use a colapsible bladder that is unvented, so it never has air in it, and shrinks as the fuel is used. This will most likely not be how I go though, since I don't own a plastic/rubber company that can do this. Are you using foam in your fuel tank/cell? What kind of sump do you have that is insufficient? Thanks, Joshua

I have been looking for information on building a fuel cell, and came across this: http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kft.html Anybody try this yet? Seems like it could be made to fit nicely without cutting out the spare tire well. Anyone have any additional information about baffling a fuel tank? Do you need baffles if using the foam? I have searched and found surge tanks, etc... I want to use aluminum (5052, .093 probably) for my EFI tank. Thanks, Joshua

This seems like a good start, where you can get going rather inexpensively, then eventually put a bigger SBC in. Joshua

Okay, I finished the image puzzle (15 Stages), The Code Puzzle (5 Stages), The Math Puzzle (8 Stages), and am on Stage 9 of the General Puzzle. This is where I need help...if anyone has completed all of them. I think the answer is Vatican City, but that doesn't seem to work. Thanks, Joshua BTW, Good Puzzles. Nice way to waste a couple hours. EDIT: Nevermind, I finished it. The answer was just Vatican... Stage Puzzle 2 is MUCH HARDER THOUGH!!!

Matt, I mispelled that. It was supposed to say rib. I am trying to describe the lower "bump" that runs around the bottom of the air dam. Some seem to stick out further than others. Thanks Again, I really appreciate your help! Joshua

Tony, The spline count should not matter as far as engine choice. The torque converter and output yoke would change though, so if you already have those, you may want to check first. I am not aware though the the spline count changed for the 700R4's when the cases changed. The difference, from what I know, is that the later cases have a big "K" cast into the bell housing area. This "K" case is stronger. I can't help you about the TV cable, but I am sure http://www.Bowtieoverdrives.com. Joshua

Matt, I wasn't sure what you meant about that Red Z, I thought maybe there were more pics at MSA. That airdam that you linked is the same part number I listed above. That is the airdam I would like to use, either that one or the equivalent from Vic Brit. If the one pictured is indeed the MSA one, I will not even consider the Vic Brit one. Thnks for offering to take pictures. I guess the angles I am interested in would be about bumper level front quarter. I would like to see where the airdam attaches to the headlight bucket, and how the mold lines match the bumper (if you have a bumper on your car). I would also like to see one further back, also a front quarter shot, hopefully showing how the lowest most"rid" projects from the vertical "wall". Does this make sense? Thanks Again, Joshua

I am stuck on 7. Any tips? Thanks, Joshua

Maybe they bonded it on to that dark support? Joshua

I expect to be ~$15-18K for the driveline only...no paint, wheels, brakes, glass, yada yada. I figure that the drivetrain is the most important part though... Oh...It is a full roller blueprinted 383, aluminum heads Holley Stealth Ram EFI System with Wideband Blueprinted TKO-600 Hydraulic clutch Alum Radiator Custom Fuel cell ... It gets expensive real quick if you choose to go overboard. It will be worth it though... Joshua

Thank Superdan for the cable information! I need to start mocking mine up this weekend... Joshua

Zthis, Thanks for the great information! This sounds like the exact kit I will need also. It won't be a problem for me to lift the engine to put them on and off, but I do understand the issue. If you wouldn't mind, I would love to see pictures of your setup. Thanks Again, Joshua

Very Nice. Great sounds also! Thanks for the video. Heck, I personally enjoy almost any Zcar video (mine is on jackstands in the garage). Joshua

Matt, I would greatly appreciate you posting a finished picture after the fix. I did see the other pics in the other thread. If you have any others though, that would be great. Thanks, Joshua What do you mean by: "Ah yes, the clean Z that made it to the pages of Sport Compact Car along with that beautiful 510. Just go to MSA http://motorsportauto.com/ and look through the catalog."?

Thanks Matt, I went back and found your post about your mounting issues. It seemed that a few people had encountered the same problems you had. I wonder though how the bumper indentation looks after the fix? At least with the stock 240 turn signals, any misalignment may not be as appearant. Where did you get yours? Do you think that it would be better to just add/repair the fiberglass to match? I was thinking that if the holes were too low, fiberglass could be added to lengthen the mounting flange and fill the holes, giving a place to start over with. Maybe I am making more of it. The link that was posted in that thread (http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12005&sort=1&cat=all&page=2) shows a car very similar, if not the same car, as in the calendar I was referring to. That is the exact air dam I would like to use. Anyone know for sure exactly which one that is? It just follows the body lines so well, and looks clean. Thanks, Joshua

Davy, Victoria British P/N 96-304 $179.95 (Opps, this is for a 280!) Victoria British P/N 96-300 $179.95 (This appears to have two square indentations in the front, but the picture is so hard to tell if it really does.) MSA P/N 50-1401 $139.95 From the pictures, it looks like the Vic Brit one is a little more vertical where the wheel well cutout is. It is just so hard to tell if they are the same or not. The one I really want, if anyone has the calendar around, is shown on an orange 72 in the 1999 Z Car Calendar, November/December. From the angle of that picture, I like how that air dam fits. Thanks, Joshua Edit: I have always had good service with MSA, although I am selective as to what I buy from them due to drastic price differences...

I want to order a non-vented fiberglass front airdam for my 72. MSA is out of stock for a little bit (which is okay). They are also cheaper than Vic Brit (~$20-30). Can anyone comment on the quality of the two pieces? Are they the same manufacturer/mold? If not the same, can you compare fitup and alignment? I saw where someone else had a DET front airdam that was pointing up in the air, and little brackets had to be made. I want something that will fit correctly if possible. Thank you, Joshua

Thank You Pete! That is what I wanted to hear. I also have a Lakewood bellhousing and it IS a beast, as you said. I will end up cutting the bottom off and plating it. I really wish someone made a smaller bell housing for a 153 tooth, as I am sure you do too (and as safe of course). Joshua

Superdan, Did you have to drill any new holes to mount a cable? Did you cut off the original bellcrank and bracket, or just route next to it? I am using a TPI cable, and am just curious on the cable alignment you got. Thanks, Joshua

I don't know how I did not see this thread. Good work on the sensors. I just completed my Master's Degree and for my project I built a Distributorless ignition system (DIS) from scratch using an 8051. I used a SBC for my subject engine. I also designed and fabricated all the sensors brackets, trigger wheels, etc... a lot of work. Maybe listing what I did will help someone else, or give some other ideas... I made an aluminum trigger wheel that mounted to my harnomic balancer. It bolted between the pulley and the balancer, with effectively no added thickness to misalign the pulley. It was pinned into place, and the pulley clamped down and held the trigger wheel against the balancer. For a sensor I used a Cherry Hall Effect. It is an industrial piece, already packaged in a very nice threaded case. It is internally biased, so the triggers need to be ferrous metal (steel), instead of magnets. I made sure to secure the triggers into the wheel securely so they did not come loose over time. This sensor was very easy to use, including mounting, and is very durable. It is also a little more pricey at ~$28 at Digikey, but heck, the wires are already attached. Just use a good weatherpak connector and you are set. I know the debates about using steel targets versus magnets, and really do not feel that magnets offer much more in "safety" from false triggering. It is also easier to machine steel than magnets, and the total cost is probably a wash in the end. I would not hesitate to use a crankshaft trigger mounted on the front of the engine, as long as the belts are not near the sensor (in case one breaks). I do think that one mounted in the bellhousing would tend to get dirty from clutch dust, but the sensor is probably better protected from everything else. I think the real ease comes in making the trigger wheel and sensor bracket. Seems easier to make one from the front of an engine. I am interested to see how your setup works out. Having a good cranking signal is an excellent sign! Good Luck! Joshua

Mike, Which Canton pan are you using/referring to? I have been researching shallower (but still 7 qt) pans, and found that B&B and Hamburger both make a 7" deep road race pan. I currently have ~8 1/4" +/- Milodon pan, and will probably throw that in the heap of extra's since ground clearance looks to be at a premium. What do you think of the Canton pans? Can you recommend a good place to buy such a beast? Thanks, Joshua

Great idea Tim! That is what I do also! Joshua

Zthis, Can you tell me more about the Hedman weldups you used to make you manifolds? I have been looking around for either header flanges or a full kit. What was the quality like? Flange thickness and fit? Round or square port? Roughly how long did it take you to build the headers? Thanks, Joshua

If you can't find any C-channel that will work, I would look into either cutting a square/rectangular tube into a channel or having a piece bent for you in the correct size. Bending will allow you to pick a metal thickness that probably better matches the stock stuff, where tubing will probably start at 1/16". I could not find an C-channel that was not structural, with tapered flanges, and I felt that all of those size were too heavy (overkill). I am going the bending route with guage metal. Joshua