Jolane

You should be able to tell if the fork is detached from the ball. The later style has a spring clip that clips to the ball to keep the fork in position. If you accidentally pushed on this, you may have unclipped the spring. If that is okay (wiggle it up and down, does it move grossly or does it feel retained?), I would try bleeding the system one more time before replacing the Master. I would use a bottle and bleed it properly (put the tube in the bottle, etc). If you just open the bleeder when the pedal is despressed, and let the fluid shoot out, you may still be getting air in the system I had this happen on a Toyota Celica and on my Nissan Hardbody. It seemed impossible to bleed until I used a bottle, then it worked like a champ. I also had my slave go out nearly instantly in the middle of a road while making a left turn. Why it all of a sudden went out, I don't know, but maybe you have something similar. Good Luck, Joshua

Those are awesome gauges! I think the lightening is the best. Not the colors available, although nice, but how the lighting is done. It looks a lot more like a modern car gauge than an old truck gauge. A few months ago someone posted another brand that looked very similar, but I can't remember what they were. Does anyone know of any other gauges with better lightening? I would like something that has an illuminated needle and just the numbers/dashes lite, not edge lighting. It seems that most manufacturers don't show night pictures of their gauges... I have looked at Stewart and Autometer. Finally, I did not see a speedo or tach listed on Summits site. Just the smaller ancillary water temp, oil pressure, etc... Joshua

Can you use the tranny grease upon reassembly to hold the balls in on an auto? I used some stuff referred to as "Honey", basically a waxy like green grease made specifically for holding tranny parts together during assembly. I needed it to hold some springs and balls inside my 280ZX 5 speed upon rebuild. It works great, and doesn't cost much (under $10 for the tub). Maybe you can call a local tranny shop and ask if it is okay to use. It could save a lot of frustration. Joshua

Oh, I see. I guess that the T56 is probably larger as well. I am using the Lakewood bellhousing (I cut the manual clutch linkage bracket off though) with a TKO600. Maybe the TKO is just smaller? At least it doesn't have the reverse lockout widget. I also did not have to reomve or touch the stock tranny mounts that are attached to the tunnel walls. Even though the TKO is heavier than the T5's, it doesn't seem like it is much bigger if at all. Joshua

Did you have to beat a bunch of the tunnel? The only place I clearanced was around my big blowproof bellhousing, in two small spots. I put the engine in as far back as possible, marked where it was hitting, pulled the engine forward as far as possible in the engine bay (engine and tranny connected hanging from the engine hoist), used a 2# short handled sledge, and made the modifications from the top of the car leaning over the fender. The total process, by MYSELF without help, took about 1 - 1.5 hours to get the engine in place. Maybe you had to make more clearance than I though... I do think that the smaller, lighter sledge was perfect. Sure it takes more hits, but I was able to make the modifications smooth and not look like I beat the crap out of it. Just my experience... (I thought it was actually too easy) Joshua

Has anyone tried using a Porta Power to press them out? I am not exactly sure what you would push against, but maybe there is something strong enough under there. Then again, maybe it would bend something else instead. Just a thought, Joshua

Mike, I am sorry that I worded that way. I knew it was not you who did the honors, but the way I phased it suggested differently. I apologize for that. As for the seat I lit up, not a big deal, it was broken anyways. I was only using it for reference. More than anything though, it is amazing how flammable they are! I would be very interested in a spray coating that would reduce flammability. Anybody know of anything? I am thinking something similar to a waterproofing spray, but for fire retardant. Joshua

Yes, externally balanced includes harmonic balancer and flywheel. The SBC 400 is externally balanced. The 350 is internally balanced. I believe you can get a new crank that is internally balanced to build a 400 with. The bottom line. If you have a 350 that has been internally balanced, then you should be just fine getting a flywheel and harmonic balancer which are internally balanced also. They need to be neutral balanced. Joshua

EDIT: Nevermind, it looks like the best to use is #7. For some reason I was thinking that the aftermarket starters were ~4HP. That is incorrect. Instead, the gear reduction is ~4:1. Seems that the 93-97 Camaro starter should be good. Thanks, Joshua Okay, I searched and read. I also referred to the JTR manual. I still feel ill equipped to make the decision on which starter to use. I have a 153 Tooth flywheel, so #3 is out. This leaves either #7 or an aftermarket one. It looks like the biggest difference is that #7 is inline gear reduction (probably planetary), where as most aftermarket ones are offset. Aftermarket ones seems to have more cranking power though, some claim 4+ Hp. They are also indexable. I am not sure if this is helpful though when using a Canton Pan. #7 is just over 2 Hp. My engine is a 383, 10:1. 1. Is #7 going to struggle? 2. Is the unsupported end of the aftermarket ones (Tilton for instance) a big deal? 3. I was thinking that the offset of an aftermarket starter might help with head ground clearance by rotating the starter to be as high as possible. Can someone verfiy if this is reasonable? I realize that #7 is cheaper, but since I don't have a core, it is not cheaper by much. Thanks for any and all help. Sorry if this seems like I am asking for info that has already been answered (if it please, please point me in the right direction, I didn't see anything about this though). Joshua

Tony, I would recommend either an unbroken sharp hack saw or a jig saw (from the bottom side). A jig saw shouldn't cost much, and would probably be my first choice. Just go slow and be patient... Joshua

I am not sure I want to dump a bunch of water where my welder, grinder, and other metal working equipment is. Also, is water a good way to put out a fire when most likely oil or gasoline are burning? Just curious, since even though it probably would have worked fine for this event, it seems like most fires around auto's are gas. Water is certainly cheaper though... Joshua

I had read about Mikelly having a seat fire when working on Jim's car a few weeks back. I guess it didn't really sink in though, because I did the same thing last night! I had a seat from a Jeep Wrangler sitting on my floorpans (using it to compare dimensions, test fit, etc). Well, I decided to work on the rear of the subframe connectors, where they go up the back of the floorpans. The interior otherwise is out of the car. Not thinking, I was happily welding away on this region when I notice flames through the seat belt nut hole. I slid out from under the car, hurry to get my fire extinguisher, and put the fire out. What a mess. It was only burning ~10 sec I guess, but the complete seat back is gone. Boy was that flammable! I never would have guessed, especially a factory seat. So, I learned a few things. Always have a fire extinguisher near by, whether welding, cutting, whatever! And know that it is good! Check the other side of the weld. Just like a stick, there are two ends... Do I feel stupid, yes. Was I lucky, yes. Will I stop starting fires in my car while welding? I hope so! (This is three now, burnt paper months ago, melted tie down strap along with that, burnt sheet that was covering the engine from overspray, and now the seat.) I just wanted to remind everyone about welding safety. I wish I had remembered myself...since now I have a mess inside my car to clean up. Be Safe, Joshua I can't imagine what would happen with a full interior in there. Why aren't seats more flame resistant? Is there a method/spray, whatever to make them safer in case of fire?

John, I will be rebuilding the seats mounts. I am planning on using Corbeau CR1's, which have a thicker bottom (than the A4's), so my mounts will already be lower. When I replaced the floorpans, I left seat mounts out until I get the seats. They will also serve to form a cross member of sorts (connected underneath the car), which should help tie the frame rails into the rocker boxes. I don't really expect to need additional room for a helmet. I am considering a roll cage for safety and chassis stiffness. I really don't want to see cracks forming in my B pillars... Joshua

Thanks for the input Michael. My concern is also head clearance, as I am tall. That makes me put the seat back as well. Maybe there is not a good solution for interior panels. I really don't want to delete them, but maybe it would be possible to cover that area similar to how the A pillars are covered, with vinyl and foam. I do not want to put all the interior panels in first, then weld the cage in. I do want to be able to remove everything for paint... Thanks Again, Joshua

Please don't misunderstand me, I think they look great. I also very much agree about better safe than sorry. A failure of the front suspension at speed could be VERY ugly! I am just trying to figure out what to do on my car. I want it set up for street driving. I do not expect to change the settings for racing. I am not sure the car will even ever be raced. I was thinking about setups with that in mind. Thank you for the pictures. It is good to see how other have approached the problems as well. Joshua

Great Choice. You will love it! Joshua

I was thinking along the lines of not using the clevis, and instead loosening the two bolts that attach the T/C rod to the LCA. This would allow for the same adjustment as the clevis, to a point, just using screw hole clearances. Once the alignment was complete, these could be retightened also. Certainly the adjustment would be more limited, but since the wheel is moving back and forth in the fender anyways (slightly I realize), maybe a lot of adjustment is not needed. Joshua The piece that forms the end of the TC rod, that connects to the LCA (boomerang looking thing), is that an OTS part, say from AFCO? I have seen very similar pieces in their catalog.

Thanks Everyone! It is definitive that the main hoop will be one piece. After looking at it more, the hatch hinges would have been in the way anyways for what I was originally thinking. I see a bunch of pictures of rollcages installed, but what do people do about interior? Just don't worry about it? Custom fiberglass panels instead? Because this is a street car, I do want an interior in it. Did anyone see the Corvette that they built on American HotRod? The interior on that was creative, yet looked good IMO. I was hoping to do something similar where the bar is "integrated" with the body. Thanks Again, Joshua

Be cautious about using Miller's competitive comparison sheet also. The Lincoln model that they are comparing in that sheet is no longer made and has been replaced with the 215. There was a writeup about this on either the miller forum or the hobart forum, I can't remember which. That information is dated is all. I would presonally look at the current spec sheets for each machine independently. Good Luck, Joshua

Does the main hoop have to be one piece, bent in a "U"? Can it instead be a straight horizontal upper piece with two vertical pieces notched and welded? I am thinking that this could accomplish a number of things (for me at least). If this is just too stupid of a question, please let me know. I am just thinking out of the box. BTW...I am thinking street car here, but it would be nice to follow some sort of rules I guess. Yes, I do have the ITS rollcage article also. Thanks, Joshua Also, would it be a bad idea to cut a slot through the map light cross bar support and stick the main hoop into that, then weld down it along both edges? This would tie the roof support into the main hoop very well, and also recess it so that head room is not a big deal (even though it is pretty much behind the drivers head). A decent interior finish should also be easier with the recessed bar. I am trying to hide a rollcage the best I can. I want the rollcage for structural stiffness and safety, but don't want my insurance company complaining, nor additional attention from the local police...plus, I have not seen something like before (maybe for good reason).

Thanks for the exhaust description! Seeing videos like yours really makes me get out and work on my own project. What an inspiration! Thanks Again, and keep the video's coming... Joshua

Nice video! I especially like the sound of your car. Would you mind telling me what kinf od exhaust you are using? The one thing I did notice was that it looks like your oil pan is very low. Are you using a Canton 7" Deep pan? Do you have any problems with the height of the pan as it is? Thanks, Joshua

What Tim described is what the 98 5.7L Vortec I have on my engine stand looks like also. Everything is concealed... Joshua

This may be a dumb question, but is the clevis really needed on the T/C rod? It seems like the plate that the clevis attaches to could have a stud welded to it, eliminating the clevis, but still giving full adjustment. Sorry if this is dumb, Joshua EDIT: Actually, I do now see why it would help. It takes any bending load out of the T/C threaded rod. I guess the question still remains, is it really needed? How about for a street car?

Thanks Magnum! I assume you do mean any SBC except the LS series? Joshua