RacnJsn95

Wow, looks great! Can't wait to hear for it performs! I was making one for my Z when I still had it, but I sold the car. I still have it running around somewhere... Long ago TonyD gave me the idea to use the throttle bodies, and linkage off a Z32, just shorten the linkage down. If I ever find myself a 2 door 510 around here, I'll probably do that.

That was my first thought for attempting to use the FWD setup... If a person wanted to get really creative, they could mount a trigger wheel for the EDIS where the distributor was, I bet that would clear the firewall... I've read the FWD SR to L trans adapter is $295

Normally I wouldn't ask such a silly question, but aside from the VG30e, and Z22/24 engines, Nissan engines are almost non-existant in any junkyard around here that is close by... I was down there today, and I found a 93 Infinity G20, with an SR20DE. It's FWD. I know the distributor is in a different place on the FWD vs. RWD, but aside from that (and the transmission) is there any reason that I can't make this FWD SR20DE engine work in a RWD car? It seems I read something a while back about someone making a FWD SR engine to RWD L-series tranny adapter, anyone know about, or have any experience with that? The guy told me if I wanted the engine I could have it for $100 bucks, which seems like a steal if I can make it work! It's the only SR20, I've ever seen in a junkyard here... Hell, I've never even seen a KA24, or a KA24DE for that matter in the JY's here... What are you opinions? Any info would be much appreciated!

It doesn't say it has overdrive on the auction descripetion anywhere does it? It just says a 5 speed.

Here is a picture of the tranny in question... ... Looks like the tailshaft of the first one is connecting to the input shaft of the 2nd... The auction says 3rd gear on the first tranny is 1st gear on the second... HMMMM?

Well the site said that I would have to have the ring gear drilled out to 11mm, because the LSD uses bigger bolts than the open rear... That wasn't true, I read that all subaru R160s after xx/1986 were 11mm fine thread, and so far that would seem to be true... The site that the LSD ring gear bolts were longer, but they were the EXACT same bolts that were in the open rear. The site didn't say I would have to grind some out of the open case to put the LSD carrier, but then again it doesn't cover swapping the carrier over, just swaping in a rearend, so can't point a finger there... All in all, everything was fine. I'm actually glad that I didn't have to have the ring gear holes drilled out bigger, saved me time and money.

So I made the trip to Corvallis on Saturday to buy a 3.70 LSD R160. I picked it up for $180, and spent about $40 bucks for the trip. So today I ripped the 3.70 LSD, and the 4.11 open diffs apart. With a little elbow grease, and about 7 hours time, I now have what appears to be a working 4.11 LSD rear end for my 510. The backlash is set, and it's ready to go into the car. I'm real excited about it! I proved a lot of peoples notes wrong along the way, and had some make up some of my own crap to make it work... If anyones interested I can do a write up some time? (btw, the LSD is a clutch type, not a VLSD)

It's already been done a few times now... Remember the Veggie car? That guy that was way into biodiesel? He took a complete LD28 diesel engine and the turbo & manifold off a ZXT, and put it all into a 240z. It supposedly got around 45 mpg, and would still do 120mph. The easiest route to get a diesel in your Z would be to find a complete diesel maxima, and just take everything you need off of it, and then when you're done put the Z engine in the maxima and sell it.

I've seen a complete Z31 maf, and ecu swap bring quite a bit of money on ebay... Also be sure to keep an eye out for Subaru (AWD) LSD rear (85-90)differentials, they're pretty much a bolt in for Z's and 510s, but stay away from the 90 and newer cars, they have a viscous LSD, and the stub axles snap in so they won't accept the bolt in Z/510 stubs... I'm fairly certain you can still get a 90+ open diff upto a certain year, of which I'm not sure, because they still have bolt in stubs... Keep an eye out for low ratio open diffs... I just got a 4.11 open diff from an early 90s legacy wagon, and its still got the bolt in stubs.

Man that sucks there is no drain plug... you should get a pan with one, or make your own... Well, now that you have to go all the way, when was the last time you changed the trans fluid? Might as well drop the pan, change the filter, and put new fluid in... If you don't rip the gasket, you don't have to replace it if you're just going to let some out... Exactly how overfull it is?

Not sure if too much oil would cause a problem... If that's when the problems started I would start by draining some out to get it back to the proper level before messing with the TV cable...

Here I found you a couple webpages that show how to adjust it... I'm not sure how accurate they are, I've never had to adjust it in my camaro... http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/tvcable.htm http://www.tciauto.com/instructions/gm_tv_cable_adjust.htm < I think this would be the best one to follow since its from TCI Hope it helps.

Sounds like the TV cable may be out of adjustment?

Looks like you have the right idea... I'm great at TIGing aluminum, I can put 2 peices of stainless together, but I can never get the color... Does that mean I'm too hot or something?

Thanks for the reply DAW. I figured the clutch type would be the way to go, but they're pretty much hard to find here. I was hoping you could use the VLSD insides to open up a new avenue.

I picked up an open 4.111 R160 from a Lagacy Wagon today at the junkyard. I picked it up for $25 bucks. I've been reading up on the subaru rear end swap, and lsd stuff, on dime quaterly... I've read that people have taken the LSD unit, and used it with different gears (such as 4.11)... The above said swaps are generally the clutch type LSD though... They're pretty much impossible to find, and if you DO find one, they will generally cost you your first born... Well maybe not that much, more like an arm or a leg . So here's what I'm getting at. The Subaru Viscous LSD (VLSD) is more readily available, and cheaper. I've read they aren't as good as a clutch type, but it's still better than nothing. The DQ article says they are good for going in a straight line, or from dead stops in slippery condidtions... Most of my racing will be at the drag strip, so I think it would suit me fine. Can the Subaru VLSD unit be swapped into a different open case with different gears, OR could different gears be swapped into the VLSD care? I'd really like to get these 4.11s set up with limited slip... Anyone ever play around with the VLSDs? (this is for my 510 btw)

I bet a lot of you guys have seen the L6 DOHC head that is being made by 1_fast_z, by cutting a couple KA24 heads into thirds... In theory the oil and water passages line up, am I correct? I know the combustion chamber spacing is the same as an L engine. So besides the timing chain issue, what stops you from putting KA head, on an L16/L18/L20b?

I can get 100 octane from the pump (at certain stations) here... MWAHAHAHA!!!!!

I've read of AT LEAST 4 or 5 guys on zcar.com that run the Maxima N47 head on a flattop engine, and have no problem with ping. I'm going to stick one on my new engine once I get it done, not that it matters to anyone, I'm just a regular guy.

I haven't seen one, but some people that look at those things would sure be blown away if you were to put your car into car shows with that block. I would keep it, and put it in the car, unless you could sell it and make a crap load of money off of it.

You don't NEED the stimulator (although it is recommended if you are building it yourself), it just so you can test everything and see if it all works correctly, without it being in the car. The relay board is basically an "external" power realy (with fuses) so you don't get some crazy surge and blow the MS. How exactly does that work, and what is a 60-1 trigger wheel?

Has it been sitting for a while?

The flywheel from a Maxima is lighter though. Something to think about, if you're not out to reuse whatever you have.

It's from an 88 Camaro V6. I didn't think it was a WC tranny, but I read today that in 88 GM made all T5's WC. Went and checked it out, and sure as hell it was a WC. The ZXT bellhousing will not bolt to the Camaro T5 case. 1st gear on the ZXt input shaft have welded itself to the shaft, so its trash. That's why I want to try and swap the Camaro internals into the ZXT case. Any other ideas?