dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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if a small chevy is 180 out of time and distributor is in the rightplace it WILL run .I bought a trans am from a guy several years ago with a 350 and drove it for about 4 months it didnt sputter once and it sounded great but didnt have any power. I sold to a friend who is a chevy guru and he moved dist., It ran like a scalded ape after that. I do agree with your advice though
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 normal starting with tdc #1
6-5-7-2-1-8-4-3 180 degrees out starting with tdc #1.
As you can see, No it will not run unless you rotate the dizzy 180 degrees or remove and reposition the rotor 180 degrees. I think your confusing being 180 degrees out with being a tooth off or two.
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Jon is most likely correct. One thing you do when you get low numbers is squirt some oil in the sparkplug holes and re-do the compression test. If the numbers go up then it's ring seal related. If not then since it is fresh I would assume the cam. If not that then you have leaking valves, but that is not likely considering it is a fresh motor and all are pretty close in numbers.
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That is tell tale TIG IMO.
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I apologize if my question is rather newbish, but I'm trying take in as much knowledge as I can for my turbo build. I just recently picked up a stock T3 turbo from a zx and intend to install in my 280z. I like running E85 and live close enough to a station that I can justify the drive to fill up with it.
So what I take from your post... is If I run stock L28E compression 78 280z internals, running E85, and the stock T3 turbo... I can actually run say 10-12psi safely with a good tune in megasquirt?!? I was under the impression the highest I could go was 5-7psi on stock compression so adding the ethanol I could up my psi without risk? I should also mention I will be running an intercooler and eventually meth injection.
So does this mean you can run a highlift cam on a turbo motor also?
-Ed
There is alot that governs what boost you can run on a compression motor and how much hp it will make. High lift cam has nothing to do with the equation as it is all about seat timing and head flow. I am running afr heads which flow very well over .600 lift. If I was running some other head I probably would not run that much lift.
Intercooled and meth injection I would imagine 12 psi being pretty safe depending on whether or not the intercooler was properly sized and the tune was good. It is all about design and engine management IMO.
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Not sure but SD said something about you having to let him drive your car or something like that.
I'll check on it.
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Matt is right. What I did on my monte when I was running alky and still had the stock steel tank was to weld a new suction pipe in so I could use AN fuel line from there.
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Sure check it out but I have built over 20 of these motors and know enough to check tolerences before install. Sometimes I take it for granted that everyone would know this
You can have the right bearing clearance and still not have proper crush on the bearing which will cause the bearing to fail. But with an attitude like that I'm DONE with trying to help.
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Well the best rods you can get are Oliver and Carillo.
The best cranks include Cola, Crower, Callies, Lunati, Eagle
The best pistons as far as I am concerned are JE as to fit, finish and balance. Mahle, lunati, arias, trw, manley, probe, are others that make fine parts.
Cylinder heads; By far the best is AFR, then Brodix and DART IMO.
Depending on what fuel type your running and what your intended purpose is will dictate what parts you want to assemble. You building it yourself?
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Wow that is great. I was amazed that I was able to build 5psi of boost under no load. What build specs do you have on that new 415 motor?
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Last but not least if you feeling like your steel butt welding isnt working very well, try a couple pieces of aluminum and then see how you feel lol!
Truer words have never been spoken!!! -
The ohio crank deals show the 383 for about $2400 but uses a gm 4 bolt block where for $600 more you can get the 406 with the dart block. The 400 is the way to go there, much better foundation and uses the same 5140 crank. I'd call these guys, they can put together a deal also.
Lewis doesn't list any engines packages.
Sallee was bought out by Gilbert, not showing prices AFAIK.
Herbert base price is $3295 and goes up to $7000 for only a 425hp engine, hardly worth that much money for that much HP or lack thereof IMO.
Summit, well, you pay for advertising IMO. I don't buy much of anything from summit.
CNC motorsports on EBAY is cheap and has good quality stuff like EAGLE and can put together a cheap combo. I have bought from them before.
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I've spent at least 3 weeks straight doing nothing but trying to TIG weld. One whole week to get the corner and fillet weld down, but I've spent the next two weeks doing nothing but the butt weld and I'm not even close to getting it. The last week was spent with the teacher the whole time to try to get the butt weld, but I cant do it.
One thing for sure is that "Can't" never did anything. First thing you have to do is change your attitude to I "CAN". Then do it!
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EBAY sent me two messages saying he was using phishing techniques to capture would be bidder info. Scammer!!!! My norton firewall stopped him dead in his tracks anyway.
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I have no noticeable blowby. Both valve covers are vented and you can feel nothing coming out of them. I will play with it some more this weekend and see what I can get going. I need to finish tig welding up the 3" stainless exhaust as right now I just have the down pipes on and they exit right by the trans. Debating on whether or not to run mufflers. I have two race mufflers, flex bellows and all the piping.
Then I need to finish the electrical wiring and put in my timing retard and boost signal to my msd box. Starting to look as though I would rather have MS to control the spark when I think about the timing it takes to make it work. The water injection is a stainless 2 gallon tank so I am thinking of running methanol (which I have alot of) instead of water in that.
I have 2 barrels of race gas so I'll put in the 118 and drive it on that to start with since the wastegates are at 16psi. I think I'll just use the greddy profec EO1 and LM1 to see where the AFR's are at and then take that off to use on the z since I plan on putting 5psi wastegate on that. Then I can use the boost controller to run that boost up.
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The rings in a turbo are somewhat like piston rings, when you get piston rings hot they loose tension against the cylinder walls and tend to use alot of oil. Same goes for turbo seals. That is why they make turbo timers for gas turbo cars.
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You're at a higher altitude. What is your reasoning for not wanting to run more boost?
Why not just go for low compression and run higher boost? You must be at like 5,000 feet.
They don't start well and mine at least is somewhat lazy. My art carr 4000 stall converter works very well though.
I think torque is what we would be interested in with the CR bump. I am not saying that a high compression turbo engine is built for a race car, just like I wouldn't say that a low compression engine running 30psi boost would be fun to drive to work everyday. My point is that if a person wants a fun commuter car I believe high comrpession is one way to go, or a really small turbine so you build boost at low rpms. Either one should be fun to commute in, neither one will have a big horsepower potential. I am not guessing about it, I am building one up to see. Hopefully the original poster will do the same. Then we can be two more guys saying that high compression and turbos is good or not good for our driving styles.I am trying both, big turbine, 10:1 motor on pump gas intercooled. We will see how us high altitude guys fair in drivability and peak hp.
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That is interesting. I have holsets on most if not all of my equipment. I run a 4 series holset on my peterbilt and it makes 36 pounds of boost and it's spinning way up in the map. I have no issues with any of them.
I am having issues with my gas turbos and leaking oil. I am wondering if in fact the issue you are having is not related to too much heat and taking tension out of the rings.
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I am limited by the factory parts. It has custom steel feed lines and a 1/2" drain line on each turbo. I am thinking about pulling the block fitting, threading it, installing a brass screw, cutting it off and drilling it out to about .060 or .070 or so, maybe .080. Keep in mind it is feeding two turbo's not one.
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Well, it's 76 degrees here today and it still takes a little squirt of starting fluid in the turbo's to get it to fire up. Ran it up to temp and moved it into the new shop area to put it on the lift. Blowing oil out the exhaust and it is coming from the turbo's. It'll build 5psi boost at 4000 rpm in park.
I PM'd wayne to see what he did about oiling. I am thinking I am going to have to restrict it as I think I am getting too much oil to the turbo's. I'm reading 60psi at the top of the block in the front where the turbo's oil supply comes from.
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no but you should be useing engine assembly lube. put lots of lube between bearing and cap and press hard making sure the algnment notch sits into place. The lube should glue it into place.
No, definately do not do what is recommended above!
It sounds as though your align bore is rather large. Install the cap without the bearing and use an inside mic or snap gauge and measre it and check with the FSM as to whether it is in spec or not. Sounds like it is on the large size.
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Merged threads since there were 2 about the same thing.
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The absurdity of that listing boggles the mind!
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So very sorry for her and her family and friends. I too lost my wife in 2006 to a brain tumor, tragic losses.
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All the rockers don't get oil all the time. When you turn the crank two revolutions, the cam turns one, so that should show oil on all the rockers.
It doesn't sound like you have a problem, just strong fingers! Crank her up and let it rip!
jt
True, the oil hole in the lifter only allows oil when the valve is closed or nearly closed, that is a good point you made. Hence my statement that if it was built correctly. Often times alot of builders using stock type ball and rockers do not use white grease or assembly lube on the ball and rockers which is a big mistake and can lead to galling of the ball and rocker.
Backfire through carb
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted · Edited by dr_hunt
If all else fails I believe your problem is in valve adjustment. You said you readjusted all of the rocker arms. Were they out of adjustment? How did you adjust them?
Backfiring through the carb indicates that the cylinder is sparking before the valve is closed or the valve is not adjusted right. Firing before the valve is closed is timing too far advanced.
Your going to want about 35 degrees total advance at WOT which does not inlcude vacuum advance. On any performance engine vacuum advance is pretty useless.