dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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Doesn't take good heads with turbo's on a v8 but it'll help. HP turbo systems and others like banks has made over 700hp on stock v8's. A few people here have done twins, and most agree that a single is simpler and the route to take if they were to do it all over again. That is why I am doing single.
Depends on your budget. Some vortec heads would be nice, Dart iron better, AFR's even better. I'm not sure why your rpm range is that high, you can make it at lower rpm but to get that high your going to need a solid lifter cam either mechanical or roller. Mechanical would probably be better for your aspirations IMO. But if your going to spin it that high you should consider going with a steel crank and some good rods and pistons. Most agree that the TRW blower pistons hold up very well although being heavy and low compression. Stock trw forged 4 valve relief flat tops would be a good choice IMO. Those coupled with some vortec or dart iron heads, good rods and a steel crank in a 4 bolt block with a solid lifter cam, matching springs would be a good choice IMO.
As for compression in a v8 I'd go with 8.5:1 as I have a 7.2:1 360 inch sbc motor with a solid roller and it's not very streetable even with a 4K stall although my cam is much larger. I have misquoted the specs on the solid roller before but it is actually like 240 something on the intake and 250 something on the exhaust with a .620 lift, so it is pretty big for a 7.2:1 motor which is why it is lazy on the bottom end. I think the dynamic compression is probably in the 6:1 range, maybe 6.5:1 if I am lucky.
Depending on your engine cam combination your probably looking at 7 to 10 psi to achieve your 600rwhp goal IMO.
There is some good reading in corky bells book and turbomustang forums, search and you'll find the links.
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But if you're racing NHRA and need a cage for legality and not for safety- go for it.
It is all about safety, you seem to be missing the point of the rules in general.
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Damniit I was gonna mention Ive heard rumors that you can twist a 360 crank into a 180.....
As far as LG goes though, I guess it's possible they are running 180degree headers rather than 180 crank.... But anyone who's ever yanked a motor/"drivetrain assembly" from a C5 or C6 knows there really isn't room for that stuff in those cars....
Some of you guys are probably too young to remember the advent of non-twist forgings for cranks. It was a big deal and yes it is how they used to be made. Forged flat and then twisted!!!
Exactly, 180 degree headers are a nightmare even in a late model or IMCA modified that has tons of room. In this instance I seriously doubt it is headers. -
Not likely anytime soon. She was beating him with a horsewhip, wooden spoons, belts, saddle cinches, etc. over things like playing bad in a basketball game. Maybe in a few years, but not in the near future from what he says. Sad, a lesson to learn.
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Settling out of court, he is staying!!!! Finally his wishes and prayers came true. Thanks guys for all your support!!!!
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He loves school here and the teachers and everything, he says he has never been so happy. Got him in drivers ed and next week he will start on the football team and the golf team. Court here next week, and then court again the week after that. Judge wants to talk with him in chambers before the hearing. I would imagine things will go his way but you never know. At least finally someone is willing to listen to his voice and his wishes, it is not a tug of war, just what is in his best interest IMO.
The principal had some nice things to say about him today, he is enjoying life, real life that is.
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Cam selection should be based off of more parameters than just cubic inch size. Compression, heads, intake, exhaust, carb, car, gears, trans, weight, desired rpm ratio, etc.
The 307 has the great 3.25 stroke. If your lucky and it has a large journal crank then you could use it later to build a 327 later on. Otherwise you'll need to find a 327 block or get special bearings to use the 350 block. They work well in the light z's. Of course more is better and you get more from cubic inches, it is all in what you want and how you want to drive it.
I'm settling for a mild 10:1 360 cubic inch chevy with mild hyd roller, 228 duration at .050 and .620 lift with a little boost for good measure.
See, it's all about what you want.
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The exhaust note is pretty convincing.
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Congratulations Doc! I'm glad everything is going smooth for you.
Oh, there is noise going on in the background, rest assured. My main focus is that he is in school and that he is happy. It is his decision and I am supporting it. I have never asked him to choose. Living with me or his mother made no difference to me although I always thought it would be better for him to live with me as he would have more opportunities to learn more.
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Got him in high school here, today is his first day. Got connections with the drivers ed teacher so got him in that also. Basketball game today after school so I will go check that out and he and I will talk to the coach and see if we can get him on the team.
He still says it is the best decision he has ever made and he is happy and content with it. He says it is better than he thought it would be. Hopefully his first day at a new high school is a good one and just one of many more.
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I am 18! It shows sometimes too!
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Anthony Dickson who had a HP turbo systems turbocharged mustang went 8.15 @ 176+mph in Albuquerque while standing the car on it's back end and leaving fiberglass bumper pieces all over the track. Truly it was impressive. The car has since gone in the 7's with another owner.
The engine in that car at the time was a culmination of a learning curve. He had been through several engines, piston combinations etc before getting something that would hold together.
The engine builder and machinist IIRC was Tod Budlong of Budlong motorsports in Albuquerque, NM.
He indicated to me that that particular engine was a 10:1 engine running like 30lb of boost using a water/air intercooler. Granted he runs race gas and all but the concept of boost and high compression is certainly there and can make big big HP if the tune is correct as indicated by the 176mph on the other end in a 3200lb mustang.
Here in NM the altitude is 4500 to 5000 feet and the density air is typically 7000 to 8000 feet. Getting a low compression turbo engine to start and idle here is extremely difficult. The age old premise of lower compression and more boost certainly holds true but at this altitude drivablility suffers to a great deal. I have been having issues with my 7.2:1 TT SBC in the Monte. Consequently for the z build I am doing a 10:1 engine on the advice of Tod Budlong. Mild hydraulic roller 228 duration at .050 and about .600 lift with a 114LSA. Of course the z will have a huge jgs precision intercooler also.
As octane increases so can dynamic compression. On alky engines and Nitro engines it is not uncommon to supercharge a 10 to 14:1 engine with great results. An 10:1 350 sbc with Dart Sportsman II iron heads, aluminum rods, nothing radical and a 6-71 blower running 15lb boost made 1250 corrected HP here in Alb. on the dyno at Edwards Engines and powered Joe Saavedra's rail dragster to 7.00 at 178mph. It has gone in the 6's at 185mph with just more timing. Another 8.5:1 350 sbc with a 8-71 blower fairly radical combo made over 1000 corrected HP on pump gas!
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I had the same problem, i believe it is a glitch related to the google ads myself. It is gone now.
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Hey Doc, I have been down this road.
If you need anything... advice etc give me a shout!
dan
PM Sent
He starts school on Tuesday. We had to file for a restraining order last friday, should have it this next wednesday.
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Here it is.
It is a 1985 Monte Carlo SS. Had 16K miles on it when I got it in 1993. Has 212K on it now.
Running a powerglide, Art Carr converter, T-brake, 9 inch ford, detroit locker, moser axles, disc brakes, SSM 4 link bars, 13 inch wide slicks, full interior, stereo etc. Pearl white with spectraflair flames that change color.
The engine control is just a msd6BTM and the greddy boost controller. I do have the LM1 to monitor AFR and it works with the greddy EO1.
I was planning on pump gas but I have a barrel of 118 octane race gas and one barrel of 111 race gas for tuning so I don't screw it up.
They say that the blow through do very well due to the cooling effect under the carb on the way to the cylinders. We will see. My problem is the wastegates are 16 lb to start with.
Hang on BABY!!!!
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We will be there with the monte and the z and maybe the new turbo z at various times this year I am sure. His z is sporting a 434 cubic inch motor now and we need to stay in the 10's otherwise I'll have to get licensed.
The new z should be amazing also.
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Yup, back to working on cars. I had problems getting it to start, it was always really cold blooded, but now I know that is attributed to the build.
It's a blow through C&S 850 aerosol billet carb, 350 +.030 4 bolt, hard blocked short fill, with a steel crank, Eagle H beam rods L19 rod bolts, TRW turbo/blower pistons, AFR 220 heads, Cometic head gaskets, Custom Solid Roller cam .630 lift, 230 something duration, 114 LSA all with the Gale banks TT system.
The compression works out to 7.5:1 static, probably alot less with the cam. It likes alot of timing to start or even idle. Like 50 degrees. With the mechanical advance it was impossible to get it to run hardly at all.
Now that the boy is here we pulled the distributor (MSD) and locked out the mechanical advance.
Boy what a difference. 55 degrees initial timing and it runs absolutely fantastic. If I had to do it all over again I'd build it with more compression. At this altitude, 4300 ft and density air at 7000 it is a mother to get started. We are talking starting fluid and the works here.
I'll get it on the lift and finish the exhaust and the wastegate pipes, finish the water injection system (factory banks) and then I need to change the gears in the rear end. It's got 4.11's in it now I'll probably go to a 3.25 or something even lower numerically. Hoping it will run somewhere in the 10's it ran 11.70's all day on motor so we will see if the 3800lb sled will go or not. The wastegates have 16lb springs in them since this is the race unit. I also have the stainless steel exhaust manifolds with this kit. I am running the greddy profec EO1 electronic boost controller and I plan to run as much as 20lb of boost on this motor.
The new turbo motor for my z project is a 10:1 compression motor. I think I will like that alot better. It will be intercooled so we will see how that works.
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Does anyone know where i can find dimensions for ls1 header flanges?
Start your own thread, please!!!
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Well, I don't think they would be that lucky again, some people don't steal the getaway vehicle and some even keep weapons. Nice story and a nice peacefull ending that is fitting IMO.
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Depends on what your goal is. 400HP in a z is quite a bit for a daily driver. Shop around on ebay and you'll find some dart sportsman II heads cheap, used intake, buy some eagle rods and a new crank and you'll be there. Or go poor boy and port the heads and do the same thing. Stock heads you can get 400HP, dart sportsman II or iron eagles you'll get 470+HP. I think that is more than enough.
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That is darn quick!!
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Neutral effort not punishment... BRAAP, you were on the debate team weren't you? That's the most nonconfrontational, positive spin way of putting that I can think of.
No he's married! That says it all!!!
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Yeah, well here it's 14, but there were other "issues" that prevented this from happening earlier. We are fine now and looking forward to happier times.
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That is an understatement!
Exactly, 180 degree headers are a nightmare even in a late model or IMCA modified that has tons of room. In this instance I seriously doubt it is headers.
Engine Break In HELP!!!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
There is no problem. The stock oil pump takes about 7hp to turn at any kind of rpm so your wimpy little drill motor won't cut it even at a couple hundred rpm. I use a 1/2 inch drill and it'll wrap you up if your not holding on with both hands. If your running a high volume pump it'll take upwards or 10hp to run it. You can prime it with the regular dizzy just make sure it's not hooked up and crank it. If you built it right with proper lube is shouldn't be a concern, crank it over with the starter and the plugs out till you build oil pressure, put it all back together and start it.
Break in, I've heard so much about that and IMO you need to drive it like you normally would with the exception of sustained high rpm. I'd break it in via the cam manufacturers recommendation and then let her rip. They talk about non detergent, regular, EOS, all the additives, etc, but IMO if you lubed the cam and lifter excessively with cam lube, have oil pressure, run it at the right rpm at start up, it'll work.
I have had cams go flat, there seems to be no rhyme or reason, even with non detergent oil, eos, mega cam and lifter lube, etc, all cam types, hyd, solid and roller (although roller is typically due to lifer rotation or lifter bind I have seen some that just went flat). Tear it down, change cams with the same exact one but new and no problems, go figure.