dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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Keep on technical track here please.
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LOL, run 14:1's, roller cam, AFR 220 heads, run 9's.
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I think mid to high 13's is about right on, which is pretty darn quick.
There is no debate. It's all about preference.
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Stay away from it!! Give me his phone number too.
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Ever see something in motion for eternity?
Nope, haven't lived that long and was planning on not living that long.
Besides, the z proves that theory wrong, it's always not in motion except for brief periods of time!
:lmao:Space is not empty. Most people find this statement surprising since we generally think of space as a vacuum. To a certain degree this is true, but space is not an absolute vacuum. It is filled with very thin electrically charged gas consisting mostly of protons and electrons. The gas is so thin that a thimbleful of air holds as many atoms as does a cube 2 miles on each side in space. Pretty thin, but it is still there.
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No such thing as too much power!
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What you heard is complete bunk. Everything that has mass has gravity associated with it, that includes yourself and everthing on the planet. It is a calculatable gravitational force.
Space is zero vaccuum, there is not much there as far as gasses go. There are other planets, solar systems and much much more. Our planet revolves around the sun whose gravity keeps us right here where we are.
The z's around here have gravity and they affect my wallet, money seems to fly out of it and go right into the car, never to return.
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Very Cool!
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So the 200lbs wouldnt be enough to make you go SBF? I have a friend that just ran a 13.8 on a stock 302 in a 3500lb car. With his 75 shot, he is at 12.4. One of these in a 2700lb car would probably break mid 12's on motor alone. Based on ET that 13.8 calculates to 263 rear wheel horsepower and the 12.4 calculates to 363 rear wheel horspower. I doubt that is stock 302 by any means as that would make that engine making about 300hp at the flywheel, which is almost 100hp over stock HO motor.
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You mean tune and then turn it up to 10psi and tune some more, correct?
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Memory foam, I have alot of it. Works great, starts at 3 inches and you can compress it down to about a half inch. I cut it on my band saw about a 1/2 inch wide and glued it on the tanks and just stuck it in the core of my pete between the A/C and the Rad. Been there for several years now.
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Looks good, like it's ready for more boost!
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The subject of laminar to turbulent transition is exquisitely complex. Please don't believe that a few general principles are enough to give accurate estimates of boundary layer physics. That said, cars are incredibly "dirty" aerodynamically, and the extent of laminar flow for a S30 Z is negligibly small.
I would seriously doubt that one could perform enough aerodynamic enhancements to obtain measurable mileage improvement while driving a "legal" speeds.
I think for this thread we need to stay on track. He's not talking the fundamentals and intricacies of fluid dynamics to describe reductions in drag and improvements in downforce. And as you get closer to the skin of the car at any point you will always have laminar flow, just depends on how small of a thickness your looking at. We need to keep it fairly simple and for the most part he's on the right track IMO, so let's look at the general areas of HP and LP and how to route the air to make it work. We will leave the hair splitting to another thread.
Sealing the IC, TC, and Rad are all good ideas and well worth the effort. Foam works fairly well sandwiched imbetween them in small strips.
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I believe it has to do with combustion chamber shape, elimination of hot valves, diluted intake charge, etc.
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I have seen that before. Poor quality valves. Ferrea had that problem when they first came out. I built a 434" sbc alky sprint car motor with brodix heads and those ferrea valves and at the first race during hot laps the engine started missing, valve adjustments were tight, re-set them and car went out again only to come back with the same problem. Tore the engine down and the valves were "tuliped" The center where the stem meets the head had pulled and the valve length was was alot longer. Odd problem, but was common back in the early days especially with stock valves and lots of spring pressures. Switched to Manley sever duty valves and no more problem.
Switch valves and your problem will likely go away.
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That is funny, one of the first things I look at is the quality of the welds. I'm not one for bling, or uber nice looking. I have always been into more the rat rods and just performance. But that thing is gawd awful looking so it exceeds my limit of acceptability.
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Hey Grim-
The "V" shape wings you are talking about I think are what is called swept wing design for aircraft. These are simply a much faster aircraft wing than a straight wing. Swept wings have less lift than straight wings and higher stall speeds, this is why jet aircraft take off and land at much higher speeds than prop driven straight wing aircraft. This has nothing to do with the aircrafts turning ability though as you stated.
The end plates on the wings you are talking about are called winglets on an airplane and are only there to reduce drag created by vortices off of the wing tip. Again these are common to swept wing planes.
I think your talking about two different parts of the plane. He is talking about the tail section and the v shaped portion of the tail that appears on some planes I believe.
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Pertaining this to an S30, where does the laminar layer turn turbulant?
Laminar and turbulent flow is a function of velocity. Using your understanding of what shapes cause high and low pressure you should be able to deduce exactly where on the car that would happen.
Would having a cowl with you vent holes cut into it build up even more pressure in front of the windsheild reducing a little of the lift? Would placing vortex generators on the roof right in front of the rear window create a turbulant boundary to keep it attached to the rear more and without a wing or a spoiler result in less drag with the consequence of more rear end lift? My main objective is drag reduction because I do want MPGs (wieght reduction in there too) since this will be my daily driven car....If your looking for MPG's then speed is your killer here. As speed increases almost exponentially so does drag.
one day....hopefully, but I also want to reduce as much lift as possible for mental security mainly but more stability as speeds as well while racing. So far my plan is to have the Subtle Z kit modified a little and a belly pan. I've been thinking of a full belly pan in 3 pieces, front, rear, and middle. I figure if I can reduce the drag with the wingless and spoilerless application of vortex generators on the roof I can drive it around and if I encounter rear lift problems that are really noticable then I'll get one of those APR wings (I think the company's name is APR but not 100 on that). I've also been thinking of side skirt/rocker panel modifications for better aero too but trying to keep the car as pretty as possible too, close to original lines and everything. Some ideas but I need to draw them out to see if I like them enough or not. Sorry about the rant, but I've been thinking about this for a long time.I think it is the general consensus that most cars have not experienced much of a problem until speeds are in the 150+ category.
Not saying that you can't achieve some good results at speeds lower than that but there is a cost/benefit line there somewhere. That is the more time and $$$ you spend yields little results. That was the purpose of the windtunnel tests, to see what is the best bang for the buck so to speak.
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Correct I believe in all accounts.
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More like a gun show every month down that way somewhere in or around houston!
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The RB is an amazing engine. My first look at one was at SEZ 6. I was impressed then and even more so now. If I was going to do yet another car, I'd do an RB swap.
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So you are using regular pex water pipe or the Pex-Al-Pex or a type of pex purchased at a HD truck supply? Also what does the "QD" stand for - I googled and couldn't find this type of fitting.
Thanks
Well, it's called Pex, I buy it at action hose in Alb. The fittings are available and some smaller hose at our Carquest store here, but they come in solid brass and plastic, the plastic ones are cheaper. The QD is quick disconnect, you push the tube in and pull back, an insert comes back out and it locks, push on the insert and it will release the hose.
:lmao:
Based on ET that 13.8 calculates to 263 rear wheel horsepower and the 12.4 calculates to 363 rear wheel horspower. I doubt that is stock 302 by any means as that would make that engine making about 300hp at the flywheel, which is almost 100hp over stock HO motor.
How many jackstands does it take?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Your the winner!!!! I only have 6.