dr_hunt
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Posts posted by dr_hunt
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1964 International scout that had been rolled. Got it for $300. Had a rebuilt 4 banger, stick, posi in both ends. Spent more money in rear ends in that thing than it was worth.
Then got a '73 Chevy 1/2 ton P/U, built a 350, 12.5:1's, ported heads, crower solid lifter .510 lift 244 duration 110 LSA, torquer intake, 650 DP, headers, turbo 350. Beat all my buddies camaro's and all fords in town. couldn't outrun the '23 T bucket or my bosses v8 powered 280z which was the fastest thing in town. Got hooked on the z's, helped him build 3 scarab conversions in the shop.
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Well, your not judged by post count. Kind of an irrelevant thing IMO. It does not reflect your experience, knowledge, character, mental stability or size of your wallet.
If you post in the non tech area it doesn't count towards your post count.
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It is normal for a manual trans to spin the output shaft in neutral when cold, sometimes even hot when the driveshaft is not attached. As for your other symptoms I have no idea other than mounts.
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Yup ol Mick Dundee from walkabout creek.
Great movies!
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Well, you have to look at it this way. There is nothing on the continent that it won't kill!
To paraphrase the words of a particular Aussie, "That isn't a gun, THIS IS A GUN!"
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Happy birthday Stony!!
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Comes with a scope. We will see how it shoots. He has 200 rounds that go with it. Yes, it is as pictured.
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I traded for this for myself for christmas! Thought I needed one of these vulcan 50BMG rifles. Has a 36 inch barrel and scope on it. Should be here in a week or two. Can't wait!
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Never heard of the 50W-70W advice.
In blown alky motors I use aluminum rods with pinned rod bearings. I think you'll have better luck running aluminum rods if you are not already. The lifespan of blown alky motors is not very long and matches aluminum rods very vell.
Are you still running wet sump? If so then you need to change oil every couple of passes, not just every race session. Go to a dry sump system and with 13 to 20 quart capacity and you will see less bearing problems.
From the vid it looks like your still very rich.
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If your at sea level a 2500 stall would be suitable. If your at altitude then a 3000 stall would be more appropriate.
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Traitor, spy, scoundrel, an admin who in not labeled, running around under the guise of a member, a wolf in sheeps clothing......aaaaaaahhhhhhh run for the hills. Not only that, but an admin from another site here to spy on our methods and report back about our efficiency and camaderie. Oh what has my peaceful little reality come to, why the madness, the insanity............
Try turning the heat up alittle, your brain is getting cold!
:lmao:If you donate you can change your subtitle.
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Well it isn't free, but I'd bet that is the book to have in reference to the z. I ordered it myself.
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Well, I am getting ready to install mine, so there will be alot of pictures in the upcoming weeks.
Cost. Well I have the following.
Narrowed 9 inch housing for 45 inch WF to WF with WAR center section $400
Wilwood street Disc Brakes and Moser 31 splined Axles $1050
Used Nasar Detroit Locker $300
New Bearings $30
4 link kit $240
3.25 gears $70
Total is $2090
Piece of mind, priceless!
I still have to get tubs and sheet metal as well as 2x3 tubing and the norm DIY.
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Yeah, I know what you mean. I saw J. Taylors car in person at a sez and man I wanted one right then and there. After seeing alot more all I can do is drool.
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Knock it off guys!
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Ok, well, been busy playing santas elf making christmas presents, but got sidetracked yesterday.
The axles and brakes came back from moser. Wilwood dynalite 4 pot calipers and 11 inch discs. So I needed to bring my transmission bench in to finish the transmission, so I put the rear end on it and assembled it.
All that is left for this to be ready is safety wire on the bolts. It measures 45 inches wheel flange to wheel flange. This has 31 spline moser axles, detrot locker (used) from a nascar team and 3.25 Ford gears. I think it will fit under the z just fine.
More santa work today for awhile then I'll work on the transmission some more.
Poor twin turbo monte sitting neglected in the background. Don't worry, it'll be next on my list.
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Incorrect valve lash will do the same thing. Aluminum heads you set at .006 tighter than spec when cold. Although you don't have aluminum heads the incorrect lash (too loose) will limit it to about 6500.
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Looking good Doc, how close are you getting to installing the EFI?
Well, once I get the trans built, then I will do the engine. Once I get that done, then I would like to start it on the stand. I will send you a PM as I need some sources for some efi parts and you probably know where I can get them.
The shop is insulated and has a wood stove. I fired it up and it is toasty in there. 2 or three small logs and your good for the whole day.
Back to the build. To install the reverse piston retainer and springs you need a tool. I made mine, but you can buy one too.
Notice the small hammer. If it doesn't fit, get a bigger one.
Got the reverse piston, install the seals on the piston and install the clutches and steels. The steels only go in one way with the notched tab at 7 o'clock position as your looking at the trans in the picture. When you go more than 5 clutches, you will need to rob an old clutch and steel or buy more cause only 5 come in the master rebuild it. You leave out the wavy steel and add a steel from the old trans as long as it is in good shape. You can see in the picture the pressure plate and clutches installed. When you install the pressure plate and ring then you measure clearance. Here is how you do it.
You want .090 to .120 clearance so that you get a good release. IMO if you are more towards .120 the car can rock when applying the transbrake. You can air check the piston to see if it works which is a good idea, otherwise if you tore a seal then you have to disassemble it again later and hopefully you find out before you put it in the car. I had .095 clearance on this trans so we proceed.
The next thing you install is the servo. Here I opted for the billet dual ring servo. They come in 2 flavors, o-ring and steel ring. If your bore is worn, use the o-ring type, seals better. Here is a picture.
Mine is not worn, you see very few that are, so I used the steel ring version. Make sure you lub the bore and the rings, compress the rings with your fingernails and install. Air check this as well to make sure you didn't nick a ring or tear an oring in the supply hole area when installing.
Then you assemble the high clutch drum. Install the seals facing down and lube up the drum and install the piston. Stack the clutches starting with a steel and alternate with a clutch. A clutch will face the pressure plate in the end. Don't forget the pressure plate thrust washer! Alternate the clocking of the steels so that the tabs are not all in the same groove so that the stress from high hp is evenly distributed on the high drum shell. You will need one of these to compress the high clutch retainer and springs. Pretty easy when you leave out 8 springs.
If you don't have one, don't try it. You will screw things up. Either borrow one or buy one they are not that much.
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I called ruger and using the serial number on the gun, that was a factory installed brass piece, which according to them makes it a rare item. It was shipped in Nov, 1972.
A local gun guy here wants it real bad, but I think I will keep it for a collector piece.
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Ok, calm down boys, be civil. Whether it is right or wrong, what the inspector says goes. But in this case he doesn't want an inspector, he wants it to work so he can get by with one receptacle 30 amp off a 220Vbreaker.
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Most likely it didn't happen. The mechanic is trying to take advantage of this person IMO.
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A guy called me the other day and wanted me to haul a semi van trailer to albuquerque for him. I told him $400, he says ok. The trailer only has 4 tires and wheels on it and I ask him what he is going to do with it. He says load it with his stuff for storage and haul it to farmington which is some 250 miles or so. I said your going to need all the tires and wheels on that to be safe. He says how much? I happen to have 4 old tires and wheels that I was going to take to the auction, so I said $400, so $800 total. He says would you trade for some guns. Went to look at what he had. Nice stuff mostly weatherby's and browning shotguns. He pulled out this pistol and I had never seen one like it or in this shape, so I snatched it up. Anyone have any idea what this is worth?
I checked rugers website and by the serial number it was made in 1972, According to Ruger they were made in 1971, 1972 and 1973 only. It is a 3 screw old model flat top blackhawk in .45 long colt with a 4 inch barrel. The kickers are the 4 inch barrel and the rosewood grip with brass trigger guard and grip frame. All I can find in the books is that the brass part is a very rare factory installed option, nothing on the gun itself.
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IIRC it had ujoints at the SEZ that I went to cause I saw them change them out. I think they would get only a few runs on the ujoints before replacing them. Later I think they converted it to the CV's.
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Several people have completed that swap. If you search alittle you will find all kinds of information.
Output shaft spinning in neutral
in Drivetrain
Posted
You must be kidding!!!! Torque down the flywheel bolts?!!!!
And you wonder why it vibrates the shifter!!!! 