dr_hunt

Most definately, doing preliminary measurements and something has got to give somewhere. I'm trying to figure out how to tie in the front frame rails with the rest of the cage and make it a 12 point cage instead of the 10 point I have now. I'm sure at some point I'm at least going to have to have the cassis certified, although I don't think I want to mess with NHRA liscense right now at this point in my life. But I will take some pic's, got to run to the bank tomorrow and get a cashiers check and pop it in express mail to the guy, it's ready to ship and I should have it all by Friday so I can do some mock up and take measurements and pics.

Got all that in the carb already, they are saying that the fuel metering needs to be calibrated for blow through and to send the carb back. The aeromotive A2000 pump will go to 32 psi, so 7.5 psi at the carb should be good to 20+psi boost. Regulator is on the way, boost referenced. I'll run calc's and see if I've got enough volume to handle the HP.

You could check out the timeslip database, see what the faster cars are running, who they are and check out their pic's and what not.

Scottie, I'd die for alcohol injection system, I'm planning on running the C&S aerosol billet carb for now as a blow through system and then possibly upgrading to the accel EFI later. Accel makes a 160Lb/hr injector and that would be necessary to support this kind of HP. I just don't have the money right now to do it all, still recovering from the witch of eastwick that absconded with alot of cash when she left. She was kind of like a tornado, alot of blowing, sucking and when I woke up the next day my wallet and trailer house was gone! 3.23's, well, I'll see what I can find on EBAY for 9 inch ford gears. I got a quote from Alan Hartman this AM, $670 delivered for a custom converter and yes, they will restall it as necessary until I get it right, but I need to have some kind of idea where to start from as far as stall goes. He suggests a dyno pull, but I called Edwards and he's booked up on the dyno since he's semi retired now. This'll be great, $4500 for a complete TT setup including cam and converter. Measuring on the z this am before I had to go to work, sorry Hanns, the inner fenderwells gotta have some torch action to get it to fit as delivered. 36" outside turbo housing to outside turbo housing. Turbo's sit right in front of the struts. Of course, there's always custom exhaust housings that could be fabbed. We'll see when it gets here, I'd like it all to fit inside the engine compartment as is, as it would be cleaner. I'm so jazzed it's about all I can think of. Banks hasn't done alcohol blow through and if you read their website, they advocate using gas only, but they pandor to the street crowd, not the racing crowd. This is really outside their envelope, but I'm usually outside the envelope anyway. So they are guessing at HP and torque values.

Well, this forum is loaded big time with all kinds of info, try the search function first. It is the general advice that the 240 through 280 z's are the best choice with the frame strength increasing as the production years increase so the 240 is the lightest, but the weakest. The zx models and later have limited engine space. Considerable time and experience has dictated structural mods that are well documented here on this forum. Trans selection is good for the 700R4, aluminum heads is a plus. Decide what you want the car to do and build towards that, search alot, read alot, there is a JTR (jags that run) book available from JTR that has ton's of info. I've never seen or read one personally, I've gotten all the info I've needed right here using the search function or asking questions. I read alot long before I posted any questions. Welcome

My 4K stall has only 5% slip on the top end. I know that 5 to 10 is the norm. Let's figure 10 anyway as a fudge factor with the 29.5 tall tire, a little turbo lag never hurt anyone, besides, it'll give my opponent a false sense of security when he beats me off the line. Wheelie bars and chute, hmmm. chute I can definately agree with, comes into play at 135mph as per NHRA rules, the wheelie bars we'll have to see how it acts, I'll play with it at first with low boost. The banks system has adjustable waste gates from 5 to 20psi. Wheelies kill et and it's kind of hard to drive when you can't steer. Now if I don't line the z up straight it'll scare the pants off you when it launches.

Thanks Hanns and scottie. The car weighs 2750 with my lard butt in in it. The tires I run are 29.5x9x15's. Then engine will redline at 6500 rpm. Banks says at 12psi it should be making 800+HP and 600+TQ on alcohol, we'll see. The system is capable of 20psi boost which according to them would be 1200+HP and over 900+TQ which would be insane but I'd love to feel that kind of power. Your vid's give me goose bumps all over. According to http://www.bankspower.com their chart shows it's making 8psi boost at 3800 rpm and the curve is really really flat, Couple that with the fact that it is a 13:1 motor (might get lowered to 12.5) I'm thinking it'll still have pleanty of low end, so that's why I'm thinking 2500 stall. I emailed a converter build sheet to Torco/Art Carr" Mickey Anderson yesterday for recommendations which includes the weight of the car, details on engine, etc. I'm looking for a spragless converter that'll stay together and I simply love my 4K stall that I already have. Just for info, Torco bought Art Carr, but now Art Carr bought it back, but still markets under Torco as well. Torco is a industrial converter rebuild and manufacture shop, I bought converters from them for heavy diesel applications, they are located in El Paso, TX and that is where they built my 4K stall that lifts the z's front wheels nicely. If you don't think or haven't thought that a converter can make all the difference in the world, then you ought to try one of their custom converters, guaranteed to 850HP for about $350 delivered. Hanns, on the blow through carb, it is my understanding that all you have to do is change the floats to solid type, is that correct? What about jets, jet up or down or how did that all come into play?

I bought the kit today off EBAY, you all may have seen it. TT blow through with everything for $3500, should be here this week. Going to buy the cam, sending the C&S 800 back to be modified for blow through application, buying a alcohol boost referenced FPR, then it's just down to getting it installed on the engine, getting a custom converter built and getting the whole mess installed in something with wheels. Question: What stall converter to get? Cam pulls from 3500 to 6500, but I don't know just what to get for stall, suggestions. I'm afraid of getting too much stall that the transbrake won't hold all the TQ, but I want enough to get it all moving without smoking the tires. The z is so light that I was thinking of just getting a blower type converter at 2500 stall. The PG is built for 900HP in the high drum and will hold 700 in the reverse clutch pack, has new turbo splined input shaft, BTE race pump, kevlar band and is on the tight side clearance wise throughout. Also rear gears, what ratio? Got 4.11's, but was thinking of going to 2.73's or something of that sort. Experience chime in anytime. Expecting the z to post some wicked times and insane MPH in the quarter.

Kind of like cocaine, heroin and the like, the more you have the more you want, take it all away and you'll cry like a baby. I don't care what form it's in, N/A, NOS, or Force fed, it's all the same, gotta have it, do anything for it. It's almost better than sex, cause it lasts longer and you can get it anytime you want a fix.

There is an Alex Costa racing in Alb, NM, is this the same guy? Racing team Costa Lot Racing? Just curious.

My engine builder is multi purpose, builds engines, transmissions, rear ends, fabs cages and then tows the car to the track and drives, even pays for entry. He's ok in my book. The AFR210's might be a good choice also, they have 76 cc chambers and are good from 3K up in a 350 to 400. My little 350 has AFR220's and it works great on the street.

I don't think the ride is nearly as smooth as stock, but alot depends on shocks/springs. I weighed my car and ordered springs and I still think they are too heavy, rides stiff. Launches good, but rides stiff.

Well if you went to something like AFR's, they have 76CC chambers, that would drop you into pump gas range real quick.

Well, I'm going to wait another 20 years and my '85 Monte SS and my boys '74 260 z will be worth millions cause that's what its going to take to pay the gas to drive 'em. In the meantime, the quest to post lower et timeslips continues. BTW what is my '33 dodge P/U worth?

Yeah, with 11:1 you'll need alot of cam to bleed off that cylinder pressure. I think HotRod did an article on a street motor with 11:1, ran alum heads and a solid roller with about 250 or 260 duration at .050 all on 93 octane pump gas. At least back then you could afford pump gas. When I was in HS I was buying avgas for $2/gallon. You might think of getting larger combustion chambers, say 76 cc, that might help unless your getting that kind of compression with 70cc heads or so. What are you running anyway?

Is that weight distribution similar to the 911's?

Yeah, but if it was leaking that much, it would hardly run or at best, be so rough you couldn't stand it and it wouldn't idle for squat.

I don't know but I'd either buy a hole saw and enroll in Jenny Craig or build more HP! LOL!

Old habits never die, do a cage at the least, I doubt if the stock rear will hold up to much that the big inch sbc can dish out. I have a 9 inch, several other members have similar solid rear axles for the high HP.

If you have a dual plane manifold with a split plenum then the carb could possibly be the culprit. Heads are usually drilled out and a replacement guide is installed followed by doing a valve job and resurfacing the valve faces in some configuration. There are valve guide inserts that some people use, but the sure way to tell is to do a compression test, one dry and then squirt some oil in the cylinder crank it a few times and do it again, if the second reading is higher then the valves aren't seating well and the guides are likely worn out. On stock chevy heads, there is an o ring of sorts that keeps oil from running down the valve stem, if they are old heads then these are heat cracked and leaking, but if they are that old then likely they need rebuilding anyway. They make umbrella seals, perfect circle style seals and the o ring type. You can use one or a combination of PC style and o ring or umbrella style and o ring. It is not worth doing just one head, and IMO it's not worth doing two heads without doing the whole engine rebuild if it's an old engine, but that's my opinion. If it's a new engine or relatively new then possibly somebody didn't do the heads right, and they need to be redone. This will offer you an occassion to change cams while your at it if you so desire. Good luck.

Well the 8.8 or the 9 won't have an effect on corners, I'm sure they both will weigh in at about 160 pounds or so after being narrowed. traditional 4 link isn't usually used for corners so you are correct and the lower bar on a traditional 4 link is usually paralell with the ground and you lower the top bar to move the IC forward or back. I'd like to see the satchell link design work.

He's right, that's why all the tests show that non altered aftermarket heads flow good, but AFR's stand above them all. Canfields are just right there, just an earlier version. It's the engine package that makes it work, not peak or average flow numbers. Cam's gotta match the heads, intake, carb, exhaust, compression, it all works together. If you talking ported aftermarket heads or ported stock heads then it's a different kettle of fish, then your looking at some $$$$. Call AFR and check on CNC race porting, well over $3K just for porting above the CNC race version heads. If your going to solid roller then you have to get upgraded valves, retainers, springs and possibly have the guides and seats done, so then it's a no brainer, sell what you got and get some that are ready to go out the door. The performance of a solid roller is what will impress you. If you think valves are all the same, they are not, different alloys and the high spring pressures will pull the tops off the valves, seen it happen recently in a BBC. Guy put roller springs and retainers on the bottom of the line manley street stainless valves to save some $$$, 3 passes and it sucked a valve, destroyed the block and one head. Post mortem last week and the top of the valve was still in the retainer with keepers, pulled apart like it was drawn just below the keeper, much reduced crossectional area where the failure occurred.

Yeah, I've got a buddy, Glen Johnson, that has a chevy 2 with a 350 hydraulic .480 lift cam, pro 1 heads and with a procharger, not sure which one, but I know it's not a race version. His car runs low 10's, like 10.05 at 135 mph. He has traction problems at midtrack and the top end. He tubbed the car put wider tires to no avail running MT et streets. Must be a real bummer having too much power!

Well, let me tell you a story. There was this preacher, unwaivered in his belief, one day his wife and kids are killed in a auto crash. He prays to god, and still his faith is unvaivering. The next week, he looses his job, he prays. The next week, his bank forcloses on his house and he is out on the streets living in his car looking for a job. He prays and maintains his faith. While out looking for some food, somebody steals his car and it starts to rain intensely, finally he asks god, what is the deal here god. The clouds part, the skies darken and a voice says; " I don't know, there's just something about you that pisses me off." Another story. When it was just adam and eve life was fair to adam 50% of the time cause the other 50% of the time it was fair to eve. So today with 80billion people in the world, the last time you blinked, yup, you guessed it, life was fair to you, only you missed it. It just can't be fair to everyone all the time so get used to it and if you think it's different for the rest of us your all wrong. Keep your chin up, it could be worse.

Oh yeah, NM is more friendly and cheaper, but we work for $6/hr so that's why. Insurance is a joke, I've been living here for 40+ years, had 5 accidents involving 2 vehicles which were not my fault and nobody but me had insurance. When I start either of my cars the cops show up cause somebody complains, but really they want to see what I've done now and what I'm going to do next. When I get the system, I'll take pics to post and try to see how it'll all work.