dr_hunt

Well, I've got several 350 4 bolts, one 327, and one 4 bolt 400 that I'm saving. Other than that I go dart block all the time except now I'm going to soon have a 4 bolt 454 with brodix heads. The 327's are hard to find, heck all are getting hard to find, have to be ready when they show up.

Well, it's custom made by H.F. Combs, he's my gunsmith of choice, has built all my guns. It is round like the barrel, has an expansion chamber and three long oval slots at 120 degree phasing, with one indexed straight up. The business end has a hole that is .010 larger than the bullet dia so the bullet seals the hole and the gasses escape through the milled slots. The slots are rather large, in fact the brake is rather large, but it works awesome. Kind of patterned after the soviet tank brake's. I'll take a picture of one on my mag and post that in my album to give you an idea. $175 installed and they come in stainless or blued and he doesn't cut off the end of the barrel, just threads it nice and close tolerance with zero runout.

Well, I posted two pictures of the mockup in my photo album. There is a full on front shot and one of the exhaust housing where it doesn't clear the stud girdle on the drivers side. I'm going to make spacers to move both turbo's up vertically until the housing clears the valve covers. It clears on the passenger side but only barely, not enough to get the turbo boots on. I'll have to redo the wastegate piping but my pro certified welder came by and he'll do it for free. Weedogie! I got the roller cam and it is ground on an iron core with an iron gear so it'll use the stock dizzy gear, which is good, means lots of street miles with no worries. With .575 lift should be easy on springs. Once I get the turbo's mocked up where they'll fit the engine, then I'll get the engine going, maybe put it in something to try it out, and then start fabbing some exhaust for the z engine compartment.

Well, a hunter I guided a couple of years ago, Ray Fritz, gave me a Weatherby Mark v fibermark in .30-.378 mag with a 4-15 Baucsh and Lomb 50mm obj, 1 inch tube scope and rings, dies, brass, bullets, etc. Gun wouldn't shoot 3 shots into 6 inches at 100 yards. He missed 2 bull elk on his trip with the farthest one being about 400 yards and the closest one about 300 yards. I loaned him my custom remington 700 in 6.5x300 Wby Mag with a 30 inch hart barrel and a 6.5x20 Leupold scope, HS precision stock and Jewel 2 oz trigger. He dropped the second bull with one shot. I cleaned the new weatherby electronically and played with it only to discover that the muzzle brake was not fitted correctly to the barrel and after I took it off I couldn't stand the recoil. That sucker takes 120 grains of powder per shell!!!! Further investigation with a bore scope revealed that the barrel was less than perfect with chatter marks from the drilling operation of barrel making. So, I ordered a 30 inch Hart barrel in SS today that is 1.250 at the breech, continues at that dia for 6 inches and then has a straight taper to .950 at the muzzle. Also ordered a minimum SAAMI standard chambering reamer and set of gauges. So, off with the old barrel and on with the new along with a custom muzzle brake and pillar bedding along with about 10lbs of birdshot epoxied into the butt of the hollow fiberglass stock that it has on it. I've got one of those MK1 .303's, it shoots real nice. Killed a deer with an SKS just so I could say I did it.

Not all 283 blocks will make a 327, the Cast crank 283 blocks are the only ones that will clear the 327 counter weights. These blocks are identified bare by HB casting id mark in the front timing chain area between the cam and crank. If it doesn't have that the 327 crank won't clear and you'll end up doing alot of work and may hit water in the bottom of the cylinder walls.

the only g body cars that came factory 4 speed were mexican g bodies. This is fact from http://www.gbody.org. I guess nobody told Grumpy Jenkins that the 327 wouldn't hang with the 350's of the day, he was only turning low 9's in a PS vega and that was with production GM heads of the day! Or, how about Mickey Caldwell with the C modified production national record corvette with a 283 turning 8500rpm turning 11's, whooping bootie on the 302's and 327's back in the '60's. All with production cast iron heads! Point is that unless you have good heads, cubic inches ain't gonna help. Build a 350 with stock heads and a 383 with stock heads and the 383 isn't going to offer much, if any big gains due to lack of increased airflow to match the cubes. 302's and 327's respond well and work well with the old "camel" iron. Where with big inches you need big ports to make it work like it should. However to get alot of HP the smaller engines will be more radical than a larger engine with the right parts. It's an age old argument that has been solved with the great availability of the aftermarket heads, increase in cam technology, piston technology and the availability of great blocks, cranks and rods all at much more affordable prices than we had back then. Build what you want, it'll work, might not be the best but it'll be what you want and that's what counts!

Well, I was just checking pulse here and trying to see what the general consensus was. I'm for leaving it alone and moving elsewhere, for the main reason that it will happen again, it's just a matter of time and "odds". Any time your lower than sea level, it's going to happen and if you don't change your thinking, it'll happen to you more than once. I don't really relish the thought of all those tax dollars that we don't have being spent on something that is a lost cause from a practical standpoint. I'd check with the dead folks, but they aren't talking much. I bet they wished they were living somewhere else at the time this happened. I'd check with the survivors but the folks in TV land have already interviewed so many and they are all wishing they were somewhere else also. I don't think one can compare So Cal with this, it is apples and oranges. You know there is going to be earthquakes in Ca, but when, where and how bad. In N.O. you know that it is 32 feet below sea level and it's going to have a catastrophic flood that is going to wipe out the entire city. In fact I was watching a program on the history channel three weeks ago, I think anyway, that was describing just what happened.

400 cubic inch sbc, LS1 or larger is the best substitute for a ford engine IMO. Preferrably twin turbo, but in absence of that I'd go roots or procharger.

What I'm hearing is that it's going to take 6 months or longer to remove the water. They had to pump 24 hours a day to keep it dry anyway. Parts of town are 32 feet below sea level. In this time frame all buildings and foundations and roadway beds will be lost, so we are looking at complete reconstruction only to have the possibility that this may occur again as soon as it's done. I'm not a betting man, but IMHO not going to invest in something that is that risky. So, what is the real possibility for rebuilding New Orleans?

Taking responsibility sounds great but it depends on the woman. The wrong one can make your life a living hell in the next 19 years or so, actually it'd be a lifetime. I know, I'm going through it right now, daily! I love my son, but his mom drags my butt to court all the time cause she is so hurt that I never had anything to do with her, and has cost me to date some $50K in legal bills that would be better suited spent on my boy. My boy and I share a love like no other as the rest of the daddy's here can share their wonderfull experiences with their kids. I have alot to give and alot to teach, but that is half the story. I can honestly say that the victim here is, if it's true for you, the kid. My natural parent gave me up for adoption back in '63, what a blessing. Alcoholic parent whose life is full of one night stands and total drunkeness all the time on a reservation is not a place for a kid to be and thats reality. If I am ever in a situation like you, I'd assess the woman as the mother, not the kid. I couldn't do what I'm doing now again and won't. In fact, if she was worthless and pressed the issue, I'd revoke my parental rights. What happened to me was a blessing from god, not only for myself but for my folks and my sister. It's a complicated situation but look at all sides and decide for yourself what you think is the best for all involved.

$8700 for a new bike, buys alot of gas in my opinion and keeps the grim reaper from knocking at your door. Like spock says, "Live long and prosper", just that it doesn't happen on a bike.

In any state you can file an Motor Vehicle Dept lien for storage, file the lean, he'll either have to pay it or he won't be picking up anything and you can file for the title and keep it. This requires you to send the copy of the lien and supporting paperwork certified mail to him and he'll have to sign for it. If he doesn't, then you have to advertise in his local paper for several weeks and the paper sends you a certificate of publishing that you then file with the MVD and the title gets reissued to you. It's that simple! This is your legal option #1. Option #2, get a jar of vaseline, Option #3 Do nothing, but keep paying storage for something you don't own. Option #4 Do nothing at all and let the storage place file a lien and keep the vehicle.

In case I wasn't clear, the motor is $2500 and everything else is free for the taking just to get rid of it. I'm taking a trailer!

A buddy of mine, old hotrodder is getting out of all of the hotrod scene. His shop is to die for and has 5 bays +1 work bay with a lift, one bay for each one of his collector cars, 3 vettes '65, '68, '72, '70 chevelle SS and a '64 Olds 442. He called me yesterday and wants me to come pick up a 454 with brodix heads on it, PG trans, currie 9 inch ford rear with disc brakes for a 55 chevy and whatever else I want for $2500. He wants it all gone ASAP. If there's anything I don't want, I'll post it here in case any of you guys want some stuff. I'm sure there'll be pleanty. The 454 was the original SS chevelle engine that he had nickens bros do machine work on in Houston, only somebody in the shop stole the original #'s matching rectangular port heads and they replaced them with Brodix alum heads and did the machine work for free. It's a 454 +.030, steel crank, 4 bolt block, 7/16 rods, dyno'd at 450HP, so it's pretty stock and has dyno time only, never installed in the car. He sold the car but the buyer didn't want the engine. Now I'm for sure not going to sez, raiding the bank account and heading to houston next weekend.

There is a weight advantage for the 9 inch and a power using advantage for the 12 bolt chevy. IMHO either would be fine, even the 8.8 inch ford would be fine since the z is so light. Look for a narrowed 9 inch to weigh in at around 170 lbs.

New cop training, what to do when you can't spin out the car using existing tactics! New thief song, "I didn't know a worn out ford could go so slow!" Gees, can't even outrun a cop car. My monte SS was clocked at 163mph and the judge threw the ticket out cause he said it was impossible for a '85 model car to go that fast. Haha

I'll watch it, see how it goes, Is there anyone in the vicinity that can check it out and see if it's worth squat? If so, and I buy it, can anybody pick it up and keep it for awhile? I see the turbo z and the N/A z side by side drag racing already..

I've never used a coan converter, don't know much about them other than what I've read in magazines. Art Carr built me a TH400 back in the 80's and gave me an unconditional money back 2 year guarantee in writing. He said I couldn't tear the tranny up and I didn't. I've bought converters from him before and in checking, his prices are alot cheaper than coan's so I'll just stay with him. Anyway, nobody ever recommended a stall, at http://www.bankspower.com you can see the dyno charts under the twin turbo section and see that it's making over 5psi boost at 3800 rpm, which equates to 600HP or so and over 500TQ. I was wanting a soft hit due to wheelies and parts damage, so I was thinking about 3000 stall. I think its going to be fast enough anyway, I'd just like to not overpower the launch and end up with a car that is completely undrivable. Comments and suggestions?

_itch, just like a dumb c__nt to have her finger on the trigger in what appeared to be a under control situation with bubba on this guys back. Tell tale proof in video no less, thank god she didn't directly plug him.

I'll see what I can find. I have dual hero's; Hanns and Jap tin keeping me straight.

Well, this is an age old problem. Run the car with just water for awhile, 3 to 4 days, it'll quit leaking after awhile on it's own, drain the water, add 50/50 mix. I've tried ARP sealer, pipe sealer, silicone, RTV, teflon tape, but unless it's getting in the oil which is shouldn't be unless your head gaskets aren't sealing, you'll be fine.

LOL! I'm not sure what to expect, and I mean that in every sense of the word. I saw Anthony Dickson do an 8.15 at 175mph pass in his turbo mustang and he left pieces of the rear bumper on the track. It was the most wicked wheelie I've ever seen that the driver stayed in it. I don't know the z's, I don't know how they react to power, how they slide in corners, how they handle, or anything of the kind. Seat time is the key and playing is the game, it'll take time. I watched Hanns video and creamed my undies. It's like the power never really peaks, just keeps building and building like the energizer bunny on crack. If it's controllable, then I'm in. I've built engines, trannies, and rear ends for 28 years, but never drove a race car at all until 3 years ago. yeah, I know, that sucks, but I'm making up for lost time now, besides, when I was in my 20's money and me were not synonymous. Now I piss it off on all kinds of go fast toys, but if I was smart I'd pay off everything I owed.