dr_hunt

I've seen something like that before, Oldmobile based concept car. Maybe it was in a magazine. Does his doorbell work? I'd like to know what it is as well.

The balancer goes on until the balancer snout bottoms out on the timing gear on the crank. If you are using a balancer installer, which you should, you will feel a slight resistance when it bottoms out, if you go further you will break off the pilot in the crank. I know I've broken 2, and had custom tool steel ones made at a local machine shop. If you are beating it on with a hammer and a brass plate, block of wood, or something else, when you get finished with the 4 lb hammer, go to the 8 lb, then the 16 lb. Beat on it till the crank comes out the back of the block and then you'll be sure it's where it needs to be. Just kidding, it makes a definately different sound and it quits moving when it bottoms out, if you happen to be putting it on that way, although that is not the recommended way, but thousands are installed that way and, yup, I've done it myself on the side of the road once. Never, Never hit the balancer directly with the hammer, it modifies the grain structure of the cast balancers and they may crack. Steel balancers are alittle different, but still you shouldn't hit them directly with any hammer.

WOW that's truly amazing, you did battle with a least a 15 ton vehicle (unloaded) and came out with sore buns! At least you live to play another day, z is replaceable or fixable as the case may be!

It's not just NAPA, it's just the attitude that they know more than you do. I called Commercial radiator last week, asked for an AC condenser for an '84 Peterbilt. "Uhhh, that's not available anymore" Clowns! Called Peterbilt, $360 delivered. Henry Ford said something like "I'd give the cars away if I could have an exclusive on parts!"

Your right, he probably didn't see you until it was too late, then he just hauled ***. Were you merging lanes on an on ramp or from an on ramp to the freeway?

If your rod side to side clearance is .004 then it's way too tight. Should be .016 to .024. What kind of rods do you have? Pistons are made the way you describe, piston to wall clearance is usually mearued at the wrist pin centerline. What brand of pistons are you using? If you ever try JE, you'll probably never use anything else. Try measuring the dimensions and balancing with a set of Ross or Lunati's and then do JE's you'll see what I mean.

These are the cars I was talking about in a previous post that got out of hand. This is the post board from Racing Southwest's top ET list, which is like Hybridz's timeslip database. 14) 11.18@124.1....?.??....lbz34....2000 Z28....5.7 / T-56 / Nitrous / Alb., NM / RWD / slicks. Sean's car can be seen at http://www.solid-technology.com/sean/camaro1.jpg He's running a shot of NOS, but it's still awesome for a manual car since getting all the gears ain't easy. He made several passes and finally got all the gears on this one! Here's another, it's N/A, and to me is the most impressive. I can only imagine that in a z it would be in the 10's all motor at altitude!!! Gotta love the license plate. I've seen this car run!!! 17) 11.33@122.0....1.58....PNYKILR....1996 Trans Am....398ci / M6 / NA / Alb., NM / RWD / slicks

Most if not all race shops build chassis on a jig, which is completely flat. You can do it anyway you wish, sideways, upside down, right side up, just the end product will depend on whether or not it was straight to begin with.

Duuuuuuddddddde, your just not tripping on the right stuff man! With the killer stuff he's on man, everything that you thought was real ain't real anymore. Go ahead, try what he's on, I'm sure it'll change your prospective on everything!

That's amazing that stock drivetrain, i'm assuming the rear end anyway, can handle that kind of power. What a cool ride!

Pistons rock in the bores on the power stroke. If you look carefully at most v8 pistons, you will notice that the wrist pin is slightly offset to one side and the pistons and they have an arrow or notch indicating the direction of installation towards the front of the engine. This offset changes the rod/crank angle and minimizes the rocking in the bore during the power stroke. This was what was commonly referred to as piston slap and created problems with knock sensors in the later model engines when the engines had miles on them. the piston doesn't rock at TDC it rocks slightly after TDC when the piston is on the down stroke after firing. I'm sure that knowing the advance timing and rpm and burn rate for optimum A/F of gas/air at a known compression we could calculate the burn rate exactly. But if you think about it, it starts on the sparkplug side of the cylinder and goes across to the intake side of the cylinder. This is where you get your piston rocking in the bore. So if you are running domed pistons, it actually pushes the dome away from the head and the flat part of the piston on the intake side closer to the head. Some factors that will have an effect on the effective quench is rod growth due to stretch or heat and piston growth. Some, not all, aftermarket HP pistons have centered wrist pin. If you are measureing without rings and in a dry bore, then check it with rings and oil on the cylinder walls. SBC engines are a family of quench head engines, meaning that they are designed to have quench. Quench is good from several standpoints, but mainly for a better detonation free burn. To achieve proper quench, you have to have .040 or less piston to head clearance on the intake side of the head, like what grumpy's pictures show. Obviously there is a limit to the less part. I wouldn't be too concerned with piston rocking in the bores, but taking a conservative approach and achieving proper piston to head clearance may lead to less problems down the road.

Personally, I have never used Barry Grant Carb's, however I'm sure that they work fine. Anything better than a stock holley has to be good, right?!! 450HP is alot of ponies so a 750 might be alittle under carbed anyway. Keep in mind that a stock holley rarely, and I mean rarely flows 750, probably more like 700 actual wet flow numbers. You may try an 800 or even an 850 but it depends on what you are doing with the car. Don't knock a vacuum operated carb, they work good on some applications, although I prefer the DP carbs myself for my driving style and vehicle combinations that include high stall converters. I run a C&S 800 on the 350 and a 900 on the 406, both are wet flowed aerosol billet alky carbs. I have a stock 750DP, just doesn't work very well on anything I've ever tried it on.

An el camino is heavy, like 3500 lbs, the z is alot lighter. I'd expect higher trap speed than that in the 1/8th when in the z. Sounds kind of like there is some other problem.

I don't have that problem, people snooping around. Seems 40 years of being me has created this "fear" that runs rampant in the criminal element. Not to mention the rumors that there are several thugs buried in my backyard. Maybe it was 2 years ago that I caught a guy with a 16 inch butcher cleaver hiding from the cops under my boat and I held him at bay with my .45 auto, or maybe it was the fact that the cops told him they were really suprised I didn't shoot his happy arse.

No, it was drugs man. Warped sense of what HP is, the whole fart can thing, 4 doors with wings and turbo, sounds like a bad trip to me.

9 inch ford, lightened detroit locker, 4.56 gears, 29.5x9x15 slicks, ladder bars, 12 way adjustable QA1 coil overs, no tubs.

Well, coming from you Hans, that's a compliment! THANKS! I had a '29 Model A ford with a 434 made out of old leftover junk parts from circle track days and it was painted Brandywine with a clearcoat. I don't think I can get it done by SEZ even though the body man says he can. You all know about paint shop prison. How much lower numerically gear should I get to compensate for the additional 18 to 20% power recovered by going to sea level? I'm thinking 4.11's since it has 4.56's now.

If your engine has some miles on it, I assume that most are hard miles, it is quite possible that an intake valve is not seating correctly. Certainly not out of the question.

My condolences.

My monte is a pearl white with spectraflair flames. Spectraflair is that new paint that came out at the 2004 SEMA show and is a chameleon (sp) type paint except that it is like a prism and goes through the rainbow of colors. Dodge painted a whole ram in it at a cost of 8K just for the paint alone just for the SEMA show. I'll post a pic of the car in the gallery. Been trying to think of what color to paint the z, it might be fast, but it's ugly and I'm not too proud of the scoop. You guy's ideas would be welcomed! My boy Bryce wants to go with flat black with a satin clear coat. Personally I'd like to see a Brandywine that I think comes from the house of colors paint company.

Hey Ray, what color is your car and when did you take it to the track? I saw a white hybridz getting towed out of there two weeks ago, just didn't know the history on it.

With the S&S full length headers and AFR heads on the 406 sbc in the z, I can change plugs in 20 min no problem and all I use is a 5/8" box end wrench!

Went mud bogging on Saturday, and drag racing on Sunday. Got the 406 all ready to go friday night, set the valves, put in water/AF, started it up, sounded waaaayyyyy wicked. Got to the track at 1PM, unloaded the car, took a buddy for a ride to warm it up. I don't run a fan, but I like it to get to 150 temp wise anyway. He was impressed even though I never got on it. Tach decided to crap out, so I was sans a tach. Oh, well, run it anyway, it has a rev limiter. Keep in mind I told everyone at the track that I had "Tuned it up a bit"! First run in left lane, didn't know what to expect. Did the funny car type burnout as always, since I don't have a line lock. Backed up and staged, lights came down and I left just as the third yellow just began to come on, like I do in the Monte. Red light. -.011, but it pulled a mondo wheelie (both wheels) and ran 10.59@126mph while bumping the 7000 rpm chip in the MSD box before going out the back door. Ran 4 more passes, all in the right lane, which isn't as good, 10.60 to 10.66's, and went 3 rounds. Density altitude was 8400 feet, which from what they tell me was way better than saturdays 9600 feet. Track temp was 135 degrees, dude's it was boiling hot. But what a ride and officially I'm in the 10's. Planning on SEZ to see if it'll get into the 9's on motor. I'm going to redo the wiring, and order some new slicks and see if I can get a transbrake in the thing prior to zfest. The 9 inch slicks hook real good. The track photographer has only one pic and it can be found at http://www.abqdragway.com under the photo section for July 3, 05 when they post them. That photo is my second time trial and I still have the 11.30 time on the glass. Everyone I knew was asking what the heck I did to it to go from 11.30's to 10.50's, uh, just phased the rotor, set the valves, and changed jets. I know, lie like a dog, but it's just a 406 competing against big blocks cause there isn't one sb doorslammer car in the 10's on motor alone in Alb., except this one. Since it was bumping the chip, I'm looking for some 4.30 for 4.11 gears for the 9 inch ford rear. I don't know how much gear to drop to compensate for the added power to be found at sea level at SEZ. Also, I think it'll pick up some time since with all that new HP I only gained 4mph, but gained .75 seconds, so it's obvious it has way too much gear in the rear end right now.