dr_hunt

LMAO, your right!!! Sitting at the light with 5psi boost on the two step and t-brake, it launches so hard that it blew the slicks right away as the boost rockets to 12+ in the blink of an eye. I couldn't watch the gauge anymore since I was watching the track and trying to keep it straight while smoking tires. Short shifted to high which stopped the wheel spin and the tach was at like 4500 and it felt like I was on a rocket sled. Front end was light and it was dancing all over the track right and left but the monte is easy to drive and has PS. In a z I can only imagine what it's like and why on gods earth you'd want more turbo's is truly beyond me. Well, maybe you have the combination of tires and suspension dialed in and it's a breeze to drive. I can tell you that your crazy and really be right on in description. But I like you anyway. As for the baddest z on the planet, he can claim whatever he wants and the two of you can duke it out. I am going to complete my single turbo project this year and just go SLOW.

I agree! Back in the day we used to measure stock rods for length and yes there was some variance. There is also some variance in cheap pistons, but mostly stock type or claimer pistons. Ones like JE, Lunati, Manley, Ross, Diamond, BRC, etc, etc. are spot on. Crank throws can be off on stock cranks but rarely on aftermarket and when they grind the crank the throws should be all the same. In the old days, they called it "Crank Indexing", which meant that all throws were exactly 90 degrees apart and all throws equal distance from the centerline on manufacturers spec. Just brings things to attention that your machine shop is or should be a big decision making process. There are stock machine shops, bad machine shops, good machine shops and truly great machine shops. Just keep in mind that people can and do make mistakes, even the best.

Wayne is or was using the gale banks kit, modified somewhat using efi. Depending on how you mount the engine I believe it will all fit under the hood. fits under my Monte SS hood easily. I have the same kit in race trim from Gale Banks except with 18psi wastegates and stainless steel exhaust manifolds (rare $2000 upgrade). It is for sale as a kit, less the C&S aerosol billet 850 blow through carb for $3700, w/carb for $5000. Carb calibrated for C16, I used Rocket 118 fuel. Includes factory stainless steel water/methanol injection unit as well, kit is complete. Engine available also, 355 chevy, balanced steel crank, 4 bolt block, hard block short filled, decked, align honed,, head studs, main studs, carillo rods, trw blower pistons, fluidampr, sfi flexplate, AFR 227 competition heads, solid roller custom turbo cam (250/260, .630/.630), stainless comp roller rockers, stud girdle, billet tru roller tc, etc, etc, yada yada, few shakedown passes only, went best 10.60 @155mph in 3800lb car smoking the slicks. Blows the 13 inch wide slicks off my monte carlo SS. Guaranteed to blow the tires off your z. Not sure what power it makes, but it's alot, figures to about 1100 based on mph. I've got over 13K in motor, carb, and turbo kit. $10K turnkey complete engine, TT setup, methanol/water inj including carb. Fresh PG available also, turbo input shaft, 8 clutch high drum, 6 clutch reverse drum, 1.76 planetaries, t-brake, bte deep pan, full manual valve body, $1000, or vasco jet turbo input shaft, 10 clutch high drum, 6 clutch reverse, 1.76 planetaries, roller tailshaft, full manual valve body, t-brake, bte deep pan, all new, ready to run $1300 So, if your serious, it's all there and you can have the baddest twin turbo v8 z on the planet.

Cool, well then I'm sure you'll have a blast!!!

Honestly if you look at the outboard side of the head where the head bolt holes are and you see the scalloped outline, that is indicative of the lightweight castings, all of which are not very desireable. I'm not sure where you got the flow numbers but that is on the good side and they max out at .500 lift anyway. Typically, the price of gaskets, time involved, etc, etc, it's better to wait and get better heads and do it right the first time, rather than take it apart to do it all over again IMO. Hope it works out for you.

I think that most people that have twin turbo setups, myself included would go single turbo if they were to do it again. Althought the twin turbo's look really cool. Wayne has it right, it takes a whole package. IMO the th400 or the better PG is the transmission of choice here, but it depends on your application.

Those Dart heads you were looking at are pretty nice. AFR's are king of the hill but are alittle more money. You may want to run a stud girdle with whatever heads you buy as it really helps. Make sure whatever head your running you use the bigger 7/16" studs rather than the 3/8". There is really no comparison between aftermarket heads an production heads for obvious reasons. Hands down the aftermarket serious contenders will outshine anything GM has ever made or will probably ever make. Why don't you call Dart, Brodix and AFR and see what the experts recommend for you particular combination. It would be interesting to see what they all have to say.

Actually those heads are so bad that I won't comment as to why you using them. Flow wise and cheap lightweight castings all spell disaster for any motor combination built using them. My humble opinion and that of the entire WWW.

Build it light, wind it tight! I'd go with titanium valves and retainers with 10 degree locks. As for cam you'd probably be better off roller but some solid flat tappets do exist in your realm of rpm life. Isky 201561 in your motor will rev 8K+, 201630 and 201631 in solid roller will get you there also and make big big hp with good heads. I'd bet you'll be over the 500HP mark with either quite easily.

Looking good, your parts list that is, both of you actually. Sunoco 260 was only a 102 octane gas, we used to get 115 avgas at our airport back in the days and we could get 100 octane premium at the pump. Ah, the days of cheap gas and good gas are gone, oh well. AFR's are certainly about the best money can buy, what size are you looking at? What spec's are you looking at for the cam? Are you planning on running titanium retainers to lighten the valve train load? On your h-beams, what rods did you buy or are going to buy? Pistons? Details my men, details. People are drooling already and bench racing the heck out of your combos.

If your running the same rods now, yes, otherwise probably. But why would you run the same specs on a roller cam and change cams, add expense, etc? #2 and #5 cyls are the ones to check for clearance. Just about any machine shop has a jig to profile the top of the rod bolt area for clearance with the cam or check aftermarket rods to make sure you won't have issues, so I suggest if that is the route your taking have them checked. Typically I like to see about .020 or more between the rod and lobe on stroker motors. The cam turns half the distance of the crank so cam profiles, unless drastically bigger, don't have much of an effect on clearance. Neither does chain slack IMO.

Destroked 350 (3.0 stroke) Arizona hard chrome stock crank, aluminum rods, BRC pistons I believe 13:1 but been along time, pro ported 292 angle plug heads by reher-morrison, matching ported dual quad intake, carb shop custom carbs, Reher-Morrison custom grind solid roller cam, art carr custom converter, th400 trans w/trans brake in a 232" rail dragster. You will find that the 302 really pulls hard on the top end. It makes more efficient use of production heads as the air flow requirements are significantly less, which is why the motors ran so hard as compared to say a 350 with the same heads. You will extract more hp per cubic inch out of a 302 with camel heads than you will a 350 IMO. IMO the camel heads are pretty well suited to the 327 and 302 engines for that reason. IME you can build a 327 and 350 identical with identical untouched production heads, same intake, and production cam and the 350 will not make enough hp to dominate the 327. Pro ported iron heads will work well in that combination as will stock heads. Bigger flow numbers and port sizes aren't necessarily better on small motors as about anyone can tell you from experience. Putting big heads on a small motor will kill your low end and make a peaky motor just that much more peaky without really gaining that much hp on the top end vs dollars spent on the big buck big heads. Just look at the 305" sprint car motors and what heads they run from brodix vs lap times and you'll see what I'm talking about. It was all about reigning in the cost, not spending more as is the case here. Saving money on a build that your happy with and will perform pretty good in a light street/track car will pay dividends in cost savings and be able to build it again down the road. It has been said to build the displacement you can afford and this seems to fit the bill. Grumpy has his points too, but in the end it's the owner that has to be satisfied.

double hump heads came with 1.94/1.5 valves and 2.02/1.6 valves depending on hp level. Using what you have is what most hotrodding is all about and so is getting all you can out of it. It isn't all about buying parts sometimes as in the old days double humps, 292 turbo heads and the infamous bowtie heads were all we had. I built a 305 inch motor for a rail dragster that left at 8200 and shifted at 9500. Short lived but it was a screamer and all with chevy parts. It can be done and work well, maybe not as good as it would with aftermarket parts, but it'll be hard to beat with the right trans and gearing on any track.

Yeah, those are nice, but still alittle much for a 302 size motor, will be really lazy till about 4K with those heads. Remember TQ curve wins the race. Some 180 to 195cc heads are better suited for your application IMO.

That's a really really nice cam, have used it before and it really works well. I don't think he's got that kind of money to sink into a 12:1 race motor but I do think he's interested in his 302. Summit isn't that cheap of a place to buy, there are alot of places that have equal quality parts at cheaper prices for a combo deal anyway. cnc motorsports puts together nice combo's. Have bought from them before. Also Dave Poske out in Tennessee is another good place, very good if you have a problem, he races what he sells.

Ditto on the seat material, but any upholsterer can make something alittle more durable or could just buy another one from the manufacturer. Very nice seat though.

If you get 'em ported and fitted with 2.02's and 1.6's they will work pretty good on the little motor. About as good as anything since the breathing requirements aren't as much with the small displacement. I have a set of 041's ready to go on the shelf. Ran them on a 406 sbc and they worked real well, but love 'em better on a little motor. I think the 230's are alittle big for the small cubes. Just my opinion.

Yup, been on that road before, spent days polishing the lifter valley, rod beams, etc. But these days you can buy lightweight aftermarket rods and lightweight pistons, get it all balanced and run some sort of solid lifter cam. Duntov was a fan of low lift and lots of duration back in the day, but I think now technology has provided many more profiles that will make bette power when matched with the great heads we have available now. What heads you going to run?

Not really, the quench head engines like the sbc make more power if the quench is the designed .040 or less. With the head gasket at a compressed .038 you need a zero deck to achieve quench and receive the gains of the intended design. In blown alky motors with aluminum rods you can have pistons down the hole at tdc as the rods grow when hot more than steel rods and stretch to some degree with use, but I still deck the block to zero. Steel rods stretch very little under rpm, but probably more so due to heat. Like rings do on the pistons, and the reason why when running hypereutectics that you have to open up the top ring gap to .027 instead of .017 for instance. The rings grow more with more heat and you have to open up the gap to accomodate the growth or it'll pull the top of the piston off.

Nice, the 302 works well with camel heads, particularly in the 2.02 version if they are massaged well. Opt for some decent I beam rods and it's reliable to 8000 rpm easily provided your valve train is stable. I had an arizona hard chrome steel crank and all the 302 stuff back in the days, ran real nice. Would love one in a z with a 5 speed! Deck the block to zero, they are quench head motors and will work better with the proper quench height if your piston combo is for a 9.025 deck. You need quench to be less than .040 optimally.

Merry Christmas!

My ex gf's dad gave me a 1894 winchester in 25-35. Serial number in the 12XXX range makes it manufactured late 1894 and one of the very first ever produced in the 25-35 caliber. Probably sold in early 1895 when they debuted. Bore is great, needs an extractor, stock is rough. Absolutely amazing saddle ring carbine with 20 inch barrel.

I built a 4g63 for a friend. Dodge d50 stroker crank with bruce crower rods, je pistons, ported the head, custom cams, garret gt35r, intercooled in AWD DSM with the best money could buy for trans, clutch etc. Ran 11.50's all day long at 136mph at alb. national dragway. Do the math that's about 600fwhp. Intercooler was holding it back as intake temps were climbing throughout the run and tuner couldn't do any more with it although it had more. The 4g63 is an awesome little motor and the bad rep is not deserved IMO, but the cause of morons owning them, modding them and not knowing how to tune it properly. 600HP out of a 4 banger is damned impressive. The toyota 2jz and the RB are truly amazing engines as well and can top the 1K hp mark. The nissan l6 is quite a durable beast and quite capable, just not going to win the hp war. Big cubic inches always win and when they don't it's because the little motor is artificially breathing via blower, turbo or has power adder like NOS. I had a working model of the rotary engine back in the 70's when I was a teenager. Marvelous piece of equipment although longetivity seemed to be less than the piston counter parts back in the day. Actually owned an rotary stationwagon back then.

Ok, well, it runs now. The heads work very well, I am impressed. The cam isn't all that nasty sounding, but it's lumpy. I expected more sound for a .507/.525 lift and 1.6 rockers on the intakes/1.5 on the exhaust for a total at valve .540/.525 lift numbers. Idles fine in gear at 700 rpm and has great throttle response. The heads are a pretty good deal. I got mine fixed for $100 which was one new guide, new intake seat, 4 new valves, re-cutting the seats, refacing the valves and all back together. About all I can say is that if you have them checked out, it's a good deal IMO. Oh, BTW I'm running a 3500 stall converter.