dr_hunt

Probably cheaper to get a new pump IMO.

And that is the argument for a sub forum!?????? Actually I just looked in the forum and of the first 20 threads, 7 are about v8 nissans. Of those 1 is asking how hard it is to fit into a z31, one asks how much it is worth to sell, one is a sound clip, 3 build threads and the rest are questions about transmissions and other things. I think the nissan v8 is great, actually all engines are great, just not convinced that there is all that much information, interest or other technical informaiton that would warrant a sub forum. But maybe it does need to be cleaned up and organized and maybe that is the way to go. Give every engine it's own subforum. But then again since there isn't that many posts, how hard is it to browse the "other v8" forum? You managed to point out was that it might end up as you mentioned about some of the rest of the sub forums with few posts. They also started with a handfull of people wanting their own sub forum for their pet motor swaps. I think the idea would be not to start another subforum with few posts, little information and hardly used, when the search function would accomplish the gathering of a few threads just fine. Or perhaps a sticky thread in the "other v8 engine" forum about a "how too" would serve the purpose well maybe. Could be several stickies actually with some about engine mods or trans mods, etc. I was kind of expecting a high school type class debate with good ideas, but alas, was not to be I guess. Rock on dudes!

We already have our own forum for the nissan v8. It's covered under "Other Engines". The chevy, ford, chrysler v8's, toyota, nissan l6's, 4 bangers, buick v6's, chevy v6's, all don't have their own subforum. So are you guys advocating adding a subforum for every other engine choice that doesn't have it's own subforum or are you special? Actually I don't care one way or the other, just trying to understand your perspective and what exactly is to gain from all of this banter. By popularity I think the chevy and ford v8 is hands down the most popular hybrid, 2jz, nissan l6, rb's are probably second, the 4 bangers and v6's group probably third, the nissan v8 and diesel are few but around. Honestly just because a handfull of you want it, doesn't seem to warrant actually getting it, just because you yell the loudest. I haven't seen any discussion as to the need, benefits, but rather just "want". Besides, if the Nissan v8 deserves a subforum so does the buick v6, chevy v6, and the rest that don't have one as the argument would be the same for all engine choices that have actually been installed in a z. Don't you think?

Not sure if many of you know but lunati was sold in 2007 before holley went into bankruptcy. It was sold to a group of racers with pleanty of knowhow. Harold Brookshire designed the voodoo line and here is a quote from him regarding the voodoo line vs the comp cams XE line. As far as closing the valve gentler, it's a 'trade secret', although I shut it about 10% faster than stock GM hydraulics---the Xtreme Energy series is about 40% faster, and about 250% higher acceleration rate at contact. It's all about math, and I like math..... At .200" cam lift, the VooDoo 262 is 2° to 5° bigger than the XE 262, and the VooDoo 268 is 3° to 6° bigger than the XE268. It's not really magic at all, just math..... The voodoo line shuts the valve easier yet is bigger which = more torque everywhere. It pays to stay on top of the latest so you can take advantage of the HP and TQ increases in new lobe designs.

Thanks for the cool pictures!! BTW I don't install the crank with dry bearings, your run the risk of galling the bearings IMO. Grease on bearings 1-4 has no impact on measuring thrust and just a whisper on 5 not allowing any excess to get on the thrust is the way I do it whether right or wrong. The crank has to move and dry I can't do, but that is my opinion. If you can't move the crank by hand forward and back then you've got other problems. I use screwdriver to pry forward and back just to make sure full travel is seen both ways.

Pretty cool Hanns!

All the books that you can read that are published have alot of information, but there's always something lacking that they don't discuss. Here's one thing that I hardly ever run into but have on at least two other occasions, this being the third. When installing the crank, you typically install the center cap, snug it hand tight, rotate the crank and then work your way out from the center each way alternating, while rotating the crank to make sure it spins freely. You do this till you get all 5 caps on and if the crank gets tight you have a problem with the last cap you put on so you check it. Well, Mic'ing the crank and using snap guages in the bearings I determined that I had .0015 clearance on the mains, tight, but it's a street motor and it's within specs. Bearings are C&A mains .010 undersized. When installing the caps everything was great until I got to the rear main, which is the thrust. But since I had mic'd all the clearances I was wondering WTF? So, I installed my dial indicator to measure the thrust clearance and low and behold I had zero!!! It turns, but it's still zero with white grease in place so, it's probably at about .0005 or less. The books don't cover this problem. Option 1 is to have the crank thrust touched up, but you'll have to take the mains to .020 and buy new bearings. In rare instances is a crank grinder going to be able to touch it without having to grind the crank or at least polish it. Let's analayze the situation. The crank is a used piece, stock 400sbc that was running so we know it was ok, same with the block. I had it align honed, caps squared, decked to 9.000 inches, bored and honed with plates and arp studs in the mains. So we know the block is spot on. So, it has to be bearings are alittle thick in the thrust area. So, what we do is get a piece of thick glass. I happened to have some pyrex flat glass out of my fireplace, you put fine sandpaper on the glass and sand the thrust down to get your clearance. I used a good dial caliper to measure the thickness of the thrust as I went keeping it pretty even, with .0005. I took .003 off of the back and just leveled up the front side to where there were no high or low spots. This gave me a measured .003 thrust when I re-installed the crank. Perfect, and now it turns well. So just a thought when your building an engine and you run into this problem. Keep in mind that all bearings are not exactly the same all the time. Keep it in the back of your mind.

Not sure, they fit in my z ok.

Getting mine all back tomorrow, along with the 400 block. Should have running in a week or so. LOL Honestly, others sell the same head. I can't imagine some clown putting 2.055 valves on seats cut for 2.02 valves and resurfacing the valve so it'll seat as it would be easier and better to recut the seat Others sell the same head for about $649. If you do a bowl clean up I'm sure they will work fine. I changed springs as these had alittle more spring pressure open than the cam manufacturer recommended.

Very cool Hanns!!! You da man and you have a very very nice car!!!!

I agree with the z as far as going 5 speed, but then he has to get flywheel, clutch, clutch pedal installed, etc, etc, etc. Probably not a cost effective route. The 700r4 isn't all that great of a transmission in stock form IMO, but it works if the motor is pretty stock. I have one in my z with the 4.3L. They really make a big difference in cruising on the highway.

Nope, can't check valve to guide clearance without disassembling heads, but it's worth it and to have valve size, seat checked. Might as well do bowl clean up while your there also. Was the jeep motor, ahh well. Update: Budlong motorsports called this afternoon and the heads had seats cut for 2.02 valves and 2.055 valves in them, not the 2.08 valves they claimed to have. OK, so it needed 2 intake valves and 4 exhaust valves overall due to the pieces of metal that got sucked everywhere in the other cylinders and stuck between the valves and seats on several other cylinders, which bent the valves, other than the two valves in #1 which were well shall we say "toast". Ah, the joys of single plane manifolds and it is amazing how much gets sucked into other cylinders when things go south. So, machining for the 2.055 valves and it'll be good to go, but it throws the spring height all in a mess as the valves sit lower on the seats and messes up my geometry. I'll probably take my pushrods back and change for -.100 length instead of stock. Anyway, it'll be 406 cubes this time around and at least the heads are ok. If you manage to get some just have them checked out. We will see how they perform in a week or so. Should be a nasty jeep. Got a hard top the other day and a new heater core for heat during the winter. LOL Then it's on to the z.

Well, I hope yours work better than mine did. Started the motor, breaking in the cam with the idle at 3500. Was setting the timing and it was up to operating temp had been running about 15 to 20 min when it suddenly died. #1 intake valve was tight in the guide and the piston broke the head of the valve off and it beat around in there and got stuffed into the head intake port. So, checked the oil and was way over full, cracked the #1 cylinder. Took it apart and had to drive the intake stem out with a punch. Everything else was pretty good. Guys that sold me the heads said "Your not alone" offered new gasket set!! Oui, how generous! Were supposed to send call tag and have it shipped back so they could repair it. Never got tag or gaskets they said they shipped. So, I ordered another set of heads, payed via paypal. Never got second set of heads. Filed claim on both paypal transactions and got my money back on both sets of heads. block is toast, sad as it was decked, align honed and a one piece seal block. Oh well, dusted off a 4 bolt 400 block and took it to machine shop. Had it decked, thought it would go .030 and going 9:1 hypers used I had laying around, 5.7 eagle sir rods and stock crank .010/.010. Took my wonderfull heads and had new 2.08 and 1.6 manley race valves put in and the chamber cleaned up alittle and new seats in #1 chamber both intake and exhaust. Had guide replaced and all honed and ready to go now. I did some extensive exhaust port work and since I had the heads apart really got to see the ports and stuff. Pretty nice on the intake side, which accounts for the good flow numbers. A little rough under the seat in the bowl area but just a little blending and shaping of the short side radius on the intakes and they looked really really nice. Kind of an elevated port head, I know the exhausts are quite a bit higher than stock. The exhausts had a huge boss area around the guide that needed profiling and they too were rough in the bowl area with a large step when they had been machined for the seat. About 4 hours to clean them up real nice and I bet the exhaust flow numbers top 200 easily. Really large exhaust ports and the intakes are as well. So, all in all I took it in the shorts for about $1K. I could of gotten another 1 piece seal block, decked it, align honed it and bored it, bought 1 new piston, rings, and gaskets and fixed the head, but would have had a lot in that too. Shop just called and my 400 block didn't clear so I'll have to send another block tomorrow. By not clearing I mean at .030. IME 400 blocks don't get good ring seal at .040 or even .060 unless you hardblok them. I have hardblok but block is in alb and I am here. besides it takes 30 days to hard block a motor anyway to ensure it cures properly and I don't have that much time. So, hi ho hi ho it's off to alb tomorrow with another 4 bolt 400 block that i have laying around collecting dust. We will try that one and if not go from there, maybe another 350 block which I have lots of laying around.

Well, probably alot less if you don't horse whip it around the track every other weekend!!! :lmao: I just bought the boy a 7" skyjacker lift kit, 35" tires and 12" wide 16" wheels for his dodge diesel P/U. I'd get one of those, teach the kids to jump at an early age, plus you can use it to haul the "track car".

This was an 8 year old post you revived. It's still coughing and the dust is rising.

That sucks! But FYI the "bombs" were assembled on Tinian island. Bob Christy and Ross Lomanitz, both of whom worked on the Manhattan project, were physics professors of mine at NM Tech. They ended up there after being blackballed by the physics community after the development of the most destructive device known to man in the minds of some people. Great physics instructors though!!

I have a C&S Aerosol Billet Blow Through 850, ready to run for $1400.

Very cool indeed! Congrats JT, you da man!

They didn't have the gen III in '88, they did have the one piece seal version of the gen 1 though.

Actually your dealings don't have to be discussed here or Justin at all for that matter. Just read the forums over at zforce productions and er get some popcorn as the drama just continues to roll on and on and on and on. The fact that he is no longer a member here and his reputation speak volumes. And now I can say "I TOLD YOU SO!", so get over it and quit posting about people that we really don't have time to waste on. Hope that isn't too harsh, so don't take it personal.

1. Block can handle 500hp with no special mods 2. Good choice as long as the cam matches 3. Depends on how you go. Eagle 5.7 sir rods either pressed or bushed are probably better then redoing stock rods. Pistons you can go either hyper's or forged. Probably ought to get new valve springs, probably looking at about $1000 in engine parts. 383 crank is $175, hypers $250, rods $200, springs $75, t-chain, steel sleeve oil pump shaft $20, gaskets $90, there is more. 4. Depends on what you do. Here you can get balanced, decked, align honed, bored, honed, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed and your heads done for $1000. By the time you buy hoses, starter, water pump, wires, oil, oil filters, fuel filter, plugs, tstat, etc, etc. Your probably looking at about another $600. My guess is that you'll have about $2600 in the whole thing

As far as kits go, no not really. I like the non stick qft gaskets, makes it really nice later on if you have to work on it. 4 corner idle mixture is nice and using the secondaries to adjust idle rpm is great also. Holley makes a great carb, DaVinci, Braswell and C&S make holleys even better!

You need to completely disassemble, and I mean completely, soak in carb cleaner for as long as it takes, rinse with water, blow every passage out with compressed air making sure they are clean and open, re-assemble correctly, set the floats, idle air and correctly set front and back (if applicable) throttle blade angles (idle).