dr_hunt

Fact is that 230 or even 250 doesn't kill the engine as long as the water stays in the block, pertains to everyday vehicles as well as nascar. That is my point. If you run a 22-24lb cap on your daily driver then it'll run 250 or 260 without hurting anything which can be mighty handy if you don't happen to see the temp guage or temp light come on right away! Oil looses it's lubricating ability if it gets too hot and will cost you an engine, which is why most top end road race cars monitor engine oil temp. But in this case the poster doesn't run the engine at that temperature for any extended period of time, in fact quite the opposite. An engine typically lives longer if the operating temp is 180 to 200 degrees but closer to 200 which is why the manufacturers use 195 thermostats. Less temp typically makes more power because the engine heats the incoming air in the intake and heads, which is the primary reason for having temp readings at the intake rather than the head, although either is fine but the water at the neck area is exiting the engine and is the hottest of the two. You can mod a stock pump for more flow by riveting or welding a circular plate on the vanes, been there done that and back in my days we rebuilt water pumps, starters and alternators. Actually the gasket for the back of a water pump is in a full gasket set for those of you who want to try that mod. A lot of attention is being given the pump, but no attention given to the drive mechanism. You can overdrive or underdrive the pump which is usually more cost effective than buying a $150+ pump. I have found that option much more effective both temperature wise and cost wise. Stock pulleys overdrive the water pump and there are two sizes for the sbc long style pump, non a/c and a/c and come in v-belt and serpentine belt options. The a/c version is larger diameter and drives the pump faster for more coolant flow and is typically installed on vehicles with A/C and/or two package and is often seen in newer vehicles with aux. electric fans as well. There may be others as well offered from the factory that I am unaware of and there are many offered by the aftermarket. I personally underdrive the water pump by 80% using the Moroso 3 inch diameter crank pulley on all my race cars and I have no problems with cooling since most water pumps flow way too much to be effective. Yes, that is right you can have too much flow and not enough residence time in the rad, especially in an aluminum radiator!!!! The serpentine belt offers superior belt gripping ability over the v-belt design. Both have their advangages and disadvantages. v- belt slippage can contribute to heating problems as well, but multiple belts offer a safety in case some road debris happens to take one out. Redundancy is the key there and is my point. I see your point and agree for testing for a plugged radiator which is basically your suggestion, but brings to mind the thought of doing it right the first time or skimping and using used parts of unknown quality and serviceability. Not sure it's all that applicable to the poster of this thread since he didn't state that he bought a used radiator off ebay, but a valid point nonetheless. Personally flow testing, especially aluminum radiators is a mute point as they significantly outflow any copper cored radiator hands down due to larger tube cross sectional area. Although packing peanuts would significantly impact that flow characteristic, but allowing that to happen seems rather inconceivable except in rare instances considering how much money a person typically invests in an engine. It's a healthy investment in an engine that should last for years and taking chances on used radiators is aking to shooting oneself in the foot, which is another point. Things cost money and it is troublesome to watch inexperienced people invest heavily into the engine only to have problems such as overheating. I am sure any advice is great, especially if it directly pertains to the situation at hand, and even if it doesn't directly apply to the thread. I think there is alot of information provided here by alot of members and should be compiled and made a sticky by someone other than myself. Seems a good idea overall. Perhaps one our new admins will be up to the task.

You know for $150 you can get a new cast crank. I'd opt for a new crank if it was me. You can get a forged crank for $350 or so which would be even better. My advice anyway, take it or leave it.

Happy B day! What did you get, er, get yourself?

Happy B day Ron, this is the thread that keeps giving and giving year after year!

Of course it's going to cool down! Spraying 70 degree or less water on a 190 degree radiator?!?! Seeing as how water transfers heat 25 times faster than air I don't see the purpose of spraying the rad. Especially when it's hot and he's in traffic there is no hose to spay it with. What's the point? Radiators are designed for Air cooling not water cooling. That is really pointless IMO and you'll learn nothing about what the problem is. He needs to get proper airflow and it sounds like he's about got it. Having the sensor in the proper place isn't all that important either. Nothing will happen to that engine as long as the coolant stays in the rad. If you pop the rad cap, it's over. If not, it's ok. Circle track engines run between 230 and 250 degrees all the time, even in Nascar. It's oil temp that you have to watch. What is the point about the condenser? It impedes airflow and adds heat to the overall energy balance. Since about every car on the road has one I don't see the relevance. It's pretty simple. Efficient radiator, proper water flow, adequate air flow. It is as simple as that. The more HP you make the bigger the cooling area or radiator you need, or the more air flow you need. Simple high school physics.

I wouldn't worry about burning it up just yet. 230 to 250 is fine as long as your oil temps are not over about 270 or so. I have had instances where some engines just naturally run hotter than others, just a fact of life. Any speed above 35 mph then a fan does about zero good as the natural air speed is greater than the fan airspeed at a dead stop. Fans are for low speed cooling. I think it's highly probable that you need to seal the rad to the rad support. Plug all the holes that let air circumvent the rad and you'll be pretty close.

We had put all the guns in the safe before we left for england and like we were lazy in getting our 2 handguns that we sleep with out of the safe and back under the pillows. You don't make a move when someone has the drop on you while in your house, simple as that. Buddy did his job and is a hero in my eyes as it changed the situation completely and probably saved me and yes he got a t-bone all to himself. Also he wasn't going to shoot when he said he would, people that shoot just shoot, they dont talk about it first so I wasn't all that worried. The first thing that came to my mind was "I know you" and that's what I said. He's around, cops won't do anything anyway since it doesn't generate income in these tough times, they'd rather write tickets. But I have lots of bigger guns, big enought to shoot through the wall, a perp, and off into never land make no mistake about that. In NM it doesn't matter if I would of shot him in the house, in the yard, coming or going, armed robbery and assault with a deadly weapon is a felony and you can shoot felons in the process of committing a crime and certainly on your own property here in NM. Cops said to shoot him next time. If I did you can bet he wouldn't be talking and it'd take awhile to get all the empty cases rounded up. It is hard to describe the feeling you get with a perp pointing a gun in your face inside your home. Really, it's not a good feeling and something the movies have failed to capture. Honestly I hope nobody has to experience that feeling, it is truly a life changing event. Mind you that this isn't the first time I have experienced it, but it is the first time in my home. I have seen alot of drunk people waving guns around in my life not to be scared, but in your home is completely different. It is easy to reckognize when the situation is serious, but luckily I had backup the time before and although he drew first I had someone to back me up, which changes things and makes people think about what they are doing. Oddly enough the other time it was the number 2 man in the NM national guard trespassing while hunting on my land who pointed his deer rifle at me, but my ex military buddy came up from behind him and diffused the situation rather quickly.

I got woken up by my dog buddy at 4AM. He was raising hell, so I went to the front door to see what was going on, only to meet a guy standing inside the hall by the front door. He pulled what looked like a 9mm semi auto and pointed it in my face and said "what's up holmes, watch out I'll bust a cap in your ass". I had my little .22 rifle, he fled out the door and was picked up by a 80's model ford escort, white, in the street. I took a shot at him but with the crappy scope on that .22 I think I missed him in the dark as where he was there are alot of trees so no moonlight and no streetlights. I've seen the guy before and the car in town. I was suprised he didn't shoot me as we were face to face at arms length. I told him "I know you" as I have seen him before in town, the cops are going to pick him up here in awhile and if I id him he's gone. He' s a tweaker and been tweaking bad lately.

Remember that when getting a crank reground you can specify how you want that done so you can get bearing clearances in a range that will work for you. As always you can drop off the rods and bearings and have it ground properly to get the clearance you want. Cast cranks IMO run better and longer alittle tighter than steel cranks. .001 to .0015 on the rods and .0015 to .002 on the mains for most street motors. Steel cranks work pretty well in most high performance applications at around .002 on both and I know some people that run .0025 and .003 although I have never had the inclination to run that much clearance as it ups the oil volume through the bearing and creates alot more oil flying around inside the engine which isn't all that good either. But when grinding a crank there is a tolerance level on the crank which is .001 to .0015 or so. You can have it on the tight side, split, or on the low side. Say your getting it .010 on both rods and mains. You can get it .0095 to .011. Back in the old days alot of guys would grind the factory steel cranks to .011 and end up with .002 to .003 clearance. Mickey Caldwell, who held the 283 stock Corvette national record for many many years used to do that alot with his 283 steel cranks. I know several others who do that as well. But if it's built right with straigh rod big end holes, straight crank throws, straight block saddles you can run .001 all day long but it takes awhile for the engine to break in and loosen up. Typically I like to run .0015 on the rods and no more than .002 on the mains. They will live longer IMO.

Heating problems are always a nightmare. Ample pump flow, retention time in the rad, airflow are the key. Alum rads are more efficient, so it's probably just adequate air flow. The 160 or 165 stat will work fine if you use one and will make more power IMO. Air flow problems can be the result of insufficient shrouding/sealing and IMO is the place to look in your case.

Well, it's fabulous, awesome, having fun, drinking beer and staying longer than we though, if we go back that is. Tons of new people, awesome women, you guys must go. What makes you think that god made the woman for you in the same town you live in?

Yeah, pretty cool huh. I've been there 3 times already, but Bryce has not ever been. I think we will have the hybridz meeting at the tower of london actually on Friday at noon. Be there or be square.

On East hill road in southwest london is where we are going to be. Would like to pop over to France and possibly ireland. Introduce the girls to TEQUILA!

Going to a cousins wedding and to sight see while we are there. Leaving tomorrow, back next Monday night. Going a few days early and staying a day later to look around. You gents behave while we are across the pond visiting our european block z members.

I have one somewhat similar to that one your looking at. Mine bends to 135 degrees though. I think you'll find it more than enough for your needs.

your right the 205 isn't in the picture. They tore up the drivelines, had put a 203 on it that was worn out and made noise so they junked it. There is an 1.5 inch solid steel bar with bearing inserts that slides through the center section and housing. Holds the ends perfectly in line with the bearing bores. You line it up, tack it and weld it. Measure and order new axles or have stock resplined if they are the right ones that can be resplined.

So, a trip to our local yard here netted the following; Two 350 4 bolt main core engines, one with an edelbrock performer and a holley 650DP, a th350 4wd trans coupled to a NP 205 transfer case, both drivelines, all for $320. A steal IMO Took apart one motor, was .030 over already and crank .010. Block needs align hone and bore. I'm going to take the other one apart from the trans and take it apart, it looks unmolested except for intake and carb. Then it's off to my trans guy to have the th350 done, he owes me big time so it's a freebie. Then the jeep is going to get a 350 chevy and that trans and transfer case. Also I am narrowing 9 inch ford rear ends now, so it's going to get my first one.

The teflon seals are considered better AFAIK. Beefier is not always better. having new seals is about all you need although the rubber ones are more forgiving when the guides wear out than the teflon seals. Also the teflon don't take high temps very well.

Ok, so the other wheel cylinder came in today. So, I'll get started on that tonight. Bought a 9 inch ford rear end today too. I also bought the jig fixture to narrow rear ends. So I am going to narrow this rear end to fit in the newly acquired "project". LOL It has a 304 v8, PS, 3 speed, 33x12.50x15's, 8000lb winch, new seats, about 80K on the odometer. Has a rear main seal leak so I ordered a full gasket set, mild cam, 4 barrel intake which should be here next week. Going to pull it, swap cams, install new tchain and gears, lifters, intake and put a holley 4 barrel on it, then slap it back in sans the leak hopefully! Then the rear end has to go, which is what the 9 inch is for. Going to narrow it and stuff it under the jeep. Bought a "B" series detroit locker, 31 spline today on ebay to stuff in it. I have 4.11 gears so it'll be an easy fix with the stock ends and drum brakes for the little jeep. Hoping to coax 200hp out of the little motor. Will port the heads, springs retainers and hardened keepers come with cam. Will mill the heads alittle also to get all I can get. Should be fun.

There are two piston materials 4032 and 2618 I believe. Each has their plusses and minuses and applications. When choosing pistons make sure your getting the right one for your intended usage.

Got the calipers and one wheel cylinder yesterday. Have to work but I was going to try to get the calipers on tonight. Still need the right rear wheel cylinder. Bought one off ebay, waiting for it to come in. I'll take pic's when I get them on.

So that when you stop it doesn't kill the motor.

Worked on getting the motor ready to stab so I can mount it somehow. It came with jtr mounts but I'm missing one of the big triangle aluminum blocks. Was thinking of making my own like I did in the boy's z. Have to work today on a project, but tonight I'll bolt the engine and trans together, pick up my core engine and build the quadrajet carb. The doors don't close because of the door latch mechanism. Not sure what to do with them, probably steal some off one of the other cars in the back and replace them. Have to reweld one of the hatch hinges onto the body as it is broken.

Doesn't look good. Probably just get another car. Good thing you got hit in the front instead of the drivers door!!!

Well, I know your half the world away, but when you have a problem I don't think it is prudent to run to another source first, but rather deal directly back with rebello. I too have had issues with many machine shops over the years and thankfully I don't have many problems now, but on occassion they do happen. There is virtually no way the guides were not honed at all. Guides come undersized for a reason. Actually the guides are reamed or honed to fit a particular stem diameter. If you using a used valve then that diameter can be .0005 smaller and some may be that half bigger, etc, in your set. It is possible and you can get guides that you don't have to hone so it is remotely possible, but highly doubtfull that even Rebello would use one. Could be also that his supplier of guides had one in the set for some unknown reason. Could be his head guy was mad at his old lady that day, could be alot of things actually. It is possible that they never finished one guide, that happens, but you should give Rebello the opportunity to fix it first don't you think? If not, then you will probably be on your own with a sour taste for Rebello in your mouth when you speak of them. Bronze guides were all the rage when they came out and you find them alot in aluminum heads, but you'll find better wear out of the cast iron and less problems if you go iron, just make sure they have the proper clearance. Bronze runs tighter clearance but doesn't last as long. Cast iron was one of the reasons for lead in gas, but race gas has lead in it, although you can get unleaded race gas too. So, to sum it up if it's going to be a street motor, I'd go cast iron. If it's going to be a drag only car I might use bronze, but, and I mean but, these days I pretty much use cast iron for everything, just that I pop off the springs and retainers one at a time and check them myself. Doc