TheNeedForZ

I am no expert, but I think HC and CO means you are running too rich. That or condition for burning is not good enough.

I am willing to give up meat and be a vegetarian to have skills like that.

That's so wickedly funny!! I sent it to my friends, lol.

Will do, I got a free weekend this week. I emailed the ex-owner about the gear shift and he said just use "D" to drive. So "manual valve body" is crossed off the list.

Pop N Wood, Yeah you did said to check all the throttle's. I just haven't got to it yet. If I had the extra person to help me with the checking then your advice would really lead to the cause of the problem. I am theorizing that my car was breathing thru primaries only. Not knowing what you mean by "rough", I think my car idles fine, no black smoke or backfire either. Drax moved his shop to the island and I am located on the mainland(Richmond). I'd have to tow the car and go by ferry, too far...

UPDATE! I picked up a 1980 Q-Jet at a wreck yard for spare and study; I finally can see exactly how a Q-jet works in real life. I am in the process of cleaning it and rebilding it. While I was playing around with the spare Q-jet, I realized there is a secondary lockout lever that prevents 2ndary throttle from opening until engine is hot. So : engine heats up--> choke thermostat coil unwinds--> disengage 2ndary lockout lever--> NOW 2ndary throttle is AVAILABLE for opening. Then I rememberd that my 240Z choke thermostat is not hooked up to anything because the idiots at the shop simply didn't do it. I sent the car out last month to a shop and told them about the problem with the choke system, the stove that provide hot air is not there and choke thermostat is not hooked up to any heat source. After charging me a chunk of change(350$CDN), they gave me a new battery(100$) which did solve the hard to start problem, but they charged me 35$CDN for recharging/testing the old battery that was discarded?!? the air filter(17$CDN) they gave me is the wrong size and the core problem--choke not getting heat--was untouched(about 200$CDN was billed for the carburetor diagnosis/set-up? lol. Back to the topic. When I test drove the car last time, I did not realize there is a 2ndary lockout, because the carb book said : some models do not have this lock out. During the test drive the car was probably breathing thru two tiny primaries like Tony78_280z said (No heat to choke thermostat = 2ndary lockout lever remain engaged = 2ndary throttle stay locked.) I have NOT confirmed if this is exactly what causes my car to move like a 4 banger because my other family members took a vacation on short notice. As a result I don't get the extra hand(foot) I need to see if all the throttles open when heavy throttle is applied. HERE'S WHAT I NEED : I've been searching thru many books trying to find a decent instruction/photo that shows how the hot air stove is set up/hook up but to no avail. Apperently those books overlooked the item and chose to show electric chokes only. I have talked to several people in the auto industry and they do not know either. I am looking for a photo/instruction for setting and hooking up the stove. The spare carb(the one not on the car) has electric choke but no other electronic control, which is nice. I will probably go with electric choke in the future but I really want to know how to set up the traditional hot air type. Thanks

Cool, but I haven't seen that episode so far, in Canada, we get it a bit late I guess.

Thanks for the help, 20 replies in a day ain't too shabby, great forum. Tony, The carburetor uses air-valve secondaries. The air valves open when vacuum overcomes the spring that closes them. Here's what I forgot to tell all of you : The motor was built by its ex-ex-owner and is said to have been driven only 4000km or 2500miles since the build, so it is "less likely"(not impossible) to have very worn cam lobes. The tachometer is not hooked up so no RPM information is available, this just keep getting harder. So how does a manual valve body automatic works? You shift from 1, then 2, then 3. And if you drive with "D" it will start and stay at "3"? Here's I will check on the car this weekend : 1. Make sure it's a 350 block 2. Check transmission fluid level 3. All four throttle blades open fully when someone pumps the gas pedal? 4. Secondary opens when heavy throttle is applied? 5. Can car be pushed easily in neutral without e-brake(stuck e-brake check) 6. Test drive again (first drive since K&N filter is in) 7. Test drive as if it has manual valve body (1,2,3 instead of D) I can do 1~7, If it's other than that I'll have to send it out to a autoshop for a once-over.

I have some concerns about the 240Z I bought. The engine is said to be a 383, the rest of the engine is unknown to me. I sent the car out to have the carb choke set up properly along with other problems to be fixed(battery and air filter) When the car came back I test drove the car a bit. It was my first time actually driving the car. And it was quite disappointing, I wonder what had gone wrong. The car felt like my daily driver VW Jetta(115hp, 2900lb). Gunning the gas pedal more didn't help much, the engine gets louder, the car goes a bit faster but it is still like the Jetta(and I dare say it's slower then the VW) The only thing that makes me glad is that one neighbour kid seem to like the look of the car. This is what I know about the car : 1971 240Z Engine : said to be 383 Chevy Carb : Q-Jet with choke just fixed Air filter : Idiots at the shop "Installed" a wrong size air filter (and they insist it's the correct size). The air can flow into carburetor without going thru the filter, so the carb is breathing freely at time of test drive. I now installed K&N filter that allows breathing thru the top, but I haven't test drove it since the K&N is in. Trans : said to be TH350 Diff : said to be from a 85 300ZX When I drove the car I put the gear in "D", Do I have to put it in 1,2,3 or is Chevy automatic trans different or something? Just want to ask in case it is something very simple which I do not know. Weather on that day is sunny and dry. I was driving the car around the block, not on the big roads because the car does not have insurance. As a result I can't get the car up to a speed where it shift to another gear. What could have gone wrong? Where do I start my troubleshooting? Thanks The Creeping Fastback

Hey ! hey ! Congrats !

..... I went to read the original question again, I realized I was answering a question that he DID NOT ask. I though he was asking about engine brake(the kind when you down shift) He was actually asking about the natural speed loss when throttle is not applied. so THAT's how you can spend 15 minutes for nothing.

I was about to ask cuz I noticed the "bulge on the hood in this picture."(It made the car look like it is having a hard-on) http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_memrides_showpic.php?pic_id=55&car_id=11

You can still find out. During an engine break, the straight-line mementum of the entire car is partially transferred to angular momentum of certain rotating parts(in other words, car speed goes down while engine speed goes up) "Straight-line momentum loss" = "Net increase in angular momentum of all rotating parts" + "Powertrain loss" There are three ways to increase the "breaking power" of a down shift. 1.Increase the rotating speed of engine after down shift(you accomplish this by using gear ratios that are widely apart, not practical) 2.Increase the moment of inertia of some part of the powertrain(not practical) 3.Increase powertrain loss (not practical) The only way to practically "increase"(relatively speaking ) engine breaking power is to reduce weight of the vehicle.

Not a big fan of BMW cars, but those commercials(more like short movies) are excellent. Open a new window and put the address in the new window. It would say "can't open window" or whatever but a movie player will launch. mms://a306.v32615.c3261.g.vm.akamaistream.net/7/306/3261/v001/fallon.download.akamai.com/3261/films/Ambush_WMV_300k.wmv mms://a306.v32615.c3261.g.vm.akamaistream.net/7/306/3261/v001/fallon.download.akamai.com/3261/films/Chosen_WMV_300k.wmv mms://a1698.v81236.c8123.g.vm.akamaistream.net/7/1698/8123/v001/fallon.download.akamai.com/8122/hire1/streaming/omcjur32nchd_WMV_300k.wmv mms://a521.v32613.c3261.g.vm.akamaistream.net/7/521/3261/v001/fallon.download.akamai.com/3261/films/powder_WMV_300k.wmv mms://a601.v8123a.c8123.g.vm.akamaistream.net/7/601/8123/v002/fallon.download.akamai.com/8122/hire2/streaming/films/Hostage_WMV_300K.wmv mms://a428.v8123E.c8123.g.vm.akamaistream.net/7/428/8123/v001/fallon.download.akamai.com/8122/hire2/streaming/films/Ticker_WMV_300k.wmv

Where is the Z? can't find it. Found it...it's under product/road signature/1:18 Looks very nice indeed.

Wow, sorry for what happened. At least you can still type this thread. But you should go see a doctor with all the possibility of infection and whatnot.

I went to see the movie "Constantine" today. I missed the first 30 minutes so I stayed in the seat to catch up the missed part. On both times I spotted a 1st gen Z in hell. It happened after Keanu Reeve's character (John Constantine) enters hell by staring into a cat's eye. Once he is in hell there's a shot of some cars on the road. The first car in the view is a 1st gen Z. Those cars were all disguised to look creepy but I recognized the Z by its unique headlight buckets. If you are going to see that movie, see if you can catch a glimpse of the Z in hell.

That's right, cryo doesn't make things brittle. Atoms in a normal solid object moves randomly due to heat. When a surface takes abrasion, the atoms take it individually. Sometimes the outside force overcomes the original atomic bonding and the atoms are removed from the surface, wearing the parts out. In cryo, the violently moving atoms slow down(freeze) to a point where they re-align and form a pack. When abrasion occurs, the atoms take the abraision as a group, dividing the outside force among them, thus making it stronger, abraision resistant. Cryogenic treatment is not just for industrial purposes : cryo treated musical instruments like pipes or percussion units sound better too. I have heard of 1 incident where cryo parts performed worse than the original : A guy sent his Steyr barrelled action to cryo and he said the accuracy is not as good as it used to be. I wonder if he tried a different load the accuracy will be back since the barrel harmonics has changed.

I watched the Halo physics experiment(jeep stunt)...lol funny

Yep...from Wangan Midnight (also a PS2 game) In the comic the car uses a 3.1L + triple turbo running on carburetors...yeah right.

Back when I was passionate about guns I visited some gun-talk forums on a daily basis. Once in a while, a thread about cryogenic treatment on parts(mainly rifle barrels) will pop up; It was usually some guy asking "Has anybody sent their barrel for cryo and got good results?". Then it would turn into a debate on whether the process is effective at all. Although I've never sent any of my guns out for cryo treatment because of the hassle and rarity of service, but ever since I saw the process being introduced/explained on Discovery Channel 10 years ago, I was an instant believer. Has anybody sent their auto parts out for cryogenic treatment?

Yes that was what I was thinking... How did BMW increase the engine displacement in 750 or 850CSi cars? From what I've heard, all 750's have 5.4L engine while the limited edition 850CSi has 5.6 L. McLaren F1 uses the same block, different heads and is 6.0L(I think)??? If they are not bored out then it's probably in the crank stroke?

240zoom, Your BMW engine looks really clean!!! I sure hope to see it run someday. Despite being 2-v-per-cyl, with that twin turbo it is virtually a McLaren F1 engine! I got interested in the BMW V12 swap(don't have enough money/time/space at this moment, but a bit knowledge can't hurt) and I did some research on this website and on others. I've come up with some questions : Is it possible to use 2 BMW dohc straight 6 cylinder heads on the old v12? Can the old V12 be bored out to bigger displacements? (5.0 -> 5.6 or more?) How much did your engine cost? (I live in BC too, hence whatever cost it is, could apply to me as well) Why is it that many of the old BMW V12 in the wreck yard are "burnt"? Can a "burnt" engine be fixed to work again? Thanks a lot TheNeedForZ

Glenn, What V12 engine is that? Does it work well? I want a V12 one day...

That's a cool head!....any performance/flow numbers?