ww

I'm using a Z31 R200 w/clutch pack LSD and the factory 3.7:1 R&P. I don't feel you need to go very exotic on the diff unless you're making some pretty crazy power or you need to get a gear ratio that better fits your needs. Where are you located in San Jose? I'm in Mountain View... Shoot me a PM!

Go with lower turn signals with clear/smoke lenses and replace the original turn signals with driving lights...

Damn! I don't think I've seen that much red in a long time! Looks great!

Wastegate = Prevents the turbo from boosting beyond it's efficiency envelope or exceeding the design limits of the components under pressure while under positive throttle. I've never actually seen a running turbo car without one. Doesn't mean they aren't out there, just doesn't mean I've seen one. I don't believe it is prudent to design a turbo installation without one. BOV/BPV/Pop-Off Valve (Blow Off Valve/Boost Pressure Valve) = prevents compressor surge resulting from a throttle engaged boost condition to a throttle disengaged condition where the latency between on throttle and off throttle allows the boost to continue to be produced against a closed throttle plate. Can either inefficiently vent to atmosphere (easiest to install) or efficiently recirculate the boost pressure after the throttle plat and in front of the turbo inlet to allow the turbo to "free wheel" either between shifts or on sudden throttle off deceleration.

Isn't that still a pretty tall final drive ratio with the RB25DET tranny? We ended up putting 4.38's in my friends RB25DET powered 240Z and I was planning to put my Quaife into an R200 with at least 3.90's and possibly 4.10's.

Agreed. I was expecting something along the lines of at least 2...

I actually have a Honda! It's a '99 EX that looks almost totally factory on the outside. Underneath however, it's not... It started out as my wife's daily driver and became mine when we had our first kid and she got a Subaru Outback Sport (Soon to be my Rally-X car when she goes "minivan"). This let me relegate the 5.9 R/T Durango to dedicated tow vehicle and minimize it's thirst for the increasingly expensive gas. Being who I am, I couldn't help myself, I had to start improving it. 16x6 wheels, Kumho MX's, "real" CAI, headers, exhaust, cam, pulley's, Hondata ECU, full coil-overs (no cut springs here) and a Quaife ATB LSD. The only maintenance it's needed have been regular oil changes, 2 timing belts, 3 sets of tires and I put synthetic gear oil in the tranny just for good measure. It's got 145k on the odometer, has the original factory battery and clutch, gets 34mpg on my 96 mile round trip commute, has AC, a back seat and has ferried me to MSA from SanFran twice as many times as I've driven a Z there... It makes 136 fwhp and 116 fwtq. Not stellar, but it weighs only 2300 lbs and with the suspension, tires, LSD and extra power is a killer in the on/off-ramp jungle out there. When I want to have fun, what do I drive... one of my Z's. At the end of the day, the Honda is still just reliable transportation. It just doesn't get my adrenaline pumping like a well setup Z car, but it was WAY cheaper to upgrade and it has never had a rust issue and never needed sheet metal cut or welded. Too bad it's still FWD. Like Globerunner said, it's not the cars, but the pervasive attitude of those that fit the "Ricer" mentality that blemish the credibility of the enthusiast on this particular platform.