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Dang Eric. I actually dislike every single tail light conversion on that page. Please post Dan's tail light conversion on your Tail Light showcase so I can have something nice to look at when I go there! Even the 82-83 280ZX tail lights look like junk on that S30. I thought the late model Z31 tail lights would look pretty good, but I was definitely wrong. I guess I'm just not a fan of the round tail lights. The DeTomasa Pantera lights earlier in this thread looked pretty good though. Cheers, WW

Since my GForce T5 has been on the back burner for the last 6 months as I work to finish my ZXT, it might be fortuitous that a much less costly alternative has arrived. I have a couple of friends with 500+ hp in their Z32's with the stock tranny and one that's running over 700hp. If it's a simple bell housing mod+adapter, I think this may be the solution to many of our problems. And if it comes in significantly under the $2500 for the modified T5, I'll be a happy camper. Although, I will miss the light weight of the T5, I'll just have to turn the boost up a bit more to compensate. What are the gear ratios on the Z32 tranny? Fortunately, I have 3.545, 3.7, 3.9 and 4.11 R200's so I'll be able to get the right final drive regardless of the gearing, but it would be nice to know which one I'll need to prep. Cheers, WW

With Ed covering the East Coast, I'm sure we can find someone to cover the West Coast. Where'd you send the cashier's check? I just returned from Melbourne, VIC and was looking for RB30's to ship back to California. Unfortunately, nothing opportunistic presented itself. I'll probably end up doing the RB26. Possibly convert it to a single turbo for more 'driveability'!

There's only two places where I fear for the safety of my Z's. 1. The Dragstrip 2. The Dyno Almost nowhere else will you put the kind of strain on the system in such a short period of time as you will in these two scenarios.

If I didn't already have my own truck and trailer, I would rent one from UHaul or it's Canadian equivalent and drag the whole thing outta there!

^^ agreed. Too much work for little to no return.

Depending on what tranny you use with your RB, you may want to shortest diff you can find. If you use the tranny that came with the RB, they were geared for a 4.38 diff. If you put a 3.69 in it, it'll be a slug off the line. If you're modifying an original Z tranny to bolt up to the RB, then either Z32 diff should be good.

So, I did some research on the Phantom Grip and although it has relatively good results in FWD cars, I haven't found anyone that has preferred it over a 'real' LSD. Clutch or Viscous. I ended up with a Quaiffe, but just bought a friends R200 CLSD. The Quaiffe is great because it is drilled for both 10mm and 12mm R200's so it went into my pre-300ZX 10mm R200 diff with no problems and no need to shim the 10mm bolts to 12mm. My understanding is that the Precision Gear Power Brute LSD is the same unit that was manufactured for Nissan. If/when I get around to starting, let alone finishing, my RB 240z, I'll be putting one of the PG Power Brute's into the 4.11 12mm R200 I've been saving for the project.

I saw a similar improvment in performance on my ZXT that Scottie saw although I went from a 3.90 R200 to a 3.545 R200. That .355 made a pretty big difference in 1/4 mile performance and eliminated a final shift at the end of the strip. I'm considering going down to a 3.36 R200. I still have plans to replace the gear set in my T5 which would bring my first gear down to about 3.0:1 rather than it's current 3.5:1. If/when I get this done, the 3.545 R200 will probably be optimal for my setup although I've got a 3.70 R200 I can use if I need a 'happy medium'.

Don't do the LD28 crank if you're not going to go overbore. I think you need to get new pistons anyway in order to get the right pin and deck height and I don't think the pistons that work are available in stock diameters so you have to bore the block at least a some to get them to fit.

The most productive thing you can do is clean every electrical connection. On cars of this age, corrosion is bound to have built-up to some degree. Pull each injector plug, clean it with electrical contact cleaner from Radio Shack, re-connect it and run a thin bead of dielectric grease around the outside of the gap in the connector. This will prevent any moisture from creeping through in the future. Do this to every electrical connection all the way back to the ECU. Once you get good electrical connections and your resistance on them is correct, you'll be amazed at how much better your car will run. Remember, all of the sensors including the O2 sensors run off of voltage readings. If the voltage drops because of a bad or corroded connection it will change how the system manages the engine and fuel mixture. In my experience, this has been the primary contributor to poor performance and gas mileage in these cars.

Dude, it looks great. But, any reason you didn't take some of the dents out of it while you had it on the bench?

That link to the RedLine site would be great. I'm considering converting to the ITB's w/ MSnS as well.

True, but you can get performance and replacement parts for a domestic V8 a lot easier and cheaper than you can get RB parts... That has to be figured into the equation. Don't get me wrong, I'll be starting an RB swap next year once my current projects are completed. I'm budgeting about $20k for the entire job including a complete re-paint of my '72 rolling chassis. If things go like they have on my other projects, it'll probably end up closer to $25k... if I'm lucky...

Stock fuel injection with MSnS stand alone engine management and an AFM to MAF upgrade from a 300ZX can be cheaper than building up a carb'd motor and will give you infinitely more tuneability, better gas mileage and equivalent power with none of the headaches of trying to keep carbs in sync.

Pictures? Addict? Uh... read my sig below...

a) http://www.courtesyparts.com http://www.zcarparts.com http://www.jimcookracing.com http://www.zbarn.com http://www.stillen.com http://www.jimwolftechnology.com http://www.nismoparts.com http://www.arp-bolts.com http://www.racetep.com http://www.victoriabritish.com You can either get a custom manifold with the correct flange made or you can have the stock manifold modified to take a new flange. Both will run in the $1000 to $1500 range if you don't have the facilities to do it yourself. c) Uhhh... I wouldn't count on it. The stock 'automatic'? transmission will have a significantly reduced life expectancy somewhere after about 200 crank horse power. I would look for a 5-speed, drive shaft and probably an R200 from a donor 280ZX.

The rotating mass of the cam continues even though the crank shaft is being slowed by the drive shaft. It doesn't cause the tension to move to the slack side and stay there, but it causes the slack to oscillate back and forth between the two during deceleration as the camshaft is being slowed down by the slack side of the chain attached to the 'more rapidly' decelerating crank shaft. The more slack there is in the chain the more these oscillations will affect timing accuracy during this period. During continuous acceleration this is not so much of a concern, but in a drag race where you’re shifting gears or a road race where you’re accelerating, decelerating and shifting gears, it can cause a significant impact to the performance of a highly tuned vehicle.

Damn! http://forum.200sx-ogn.org/viewtopic.php?t=13683 I think I've been inspired...

On 104 octane I run up to 25 psi but I have all forged internals... nearly everything. I've contemplated forging a dip stick just for the sake of consistency... On California pump gas, I won't go over 15 psi and usually run at 10 psi. It'll still smoke most cars at 10 psi and when someone gets cocky it goes up to 15 psi. No one has been cocky enough to make me want to take it up to 25 psi on the street. Draw throughs are cooler as a result of the fuel coming into the compressor side with the air charge. The fact that your doing water/alcohol injection will help even more. The drawback is that you get fuel pooling in the bottom of the turbo compressor housing... I prefer a blow-through setup with intercooler, but that has it's own set of problems.

What do you have in your diff? Does it have an LSD? If so, what kind? Clutch type or torsion gear? In my '82, I use Redline 75w90NS in both my T5 and R200 w/ Quaife. In my '72, I use Redline 75w90NS in the Datsun 4 speed and 75w90 in the R200 w/ PG Power Brute clutch type LSD. Knowing your application is critical to recommending an appropriate solution.

Based on your description and depending on the quality of the head work, I'd guess somewhere in the neighborhood of 170 to 180 whp and 140 to 150 wtq

You're getting different answers because people have bored their motors out to different degrees. Same style (dish/flat) pistons, same head will give you different compression ratios based on bore size. ie. 86mm standard bore with flat tops and an N47 should give you 9.8:1 compression. Boring it out to 89mm will give you 10.36:1 compression. I assume that's where the 10.4:1 came from. With the larger bore, you're squishing more air fuel mixture into the head for combustion giving you more compression.

Pete, Just to re-iterate my support. I'm in.