A. G. Olphart

It is a genuine "Bull" run... I followed the link and watched part of an episode (8?). Really amazing that the guys in the Charger bumped a collector, lost back pressure, and the car wouldn't run until they tightened it. Evidently J. Q. Public will buy anything. <>

Not to worry, works either way. <>

Kooky and dated... why does that sound familiar? <>

Interesting series of build pictures here for the racing VW bus: http://www.race-taxi.ch/ Not your average 36Hp. snail. 283VZ posted links to some of its' racing vids: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121386&page=6 <>

Hooray!!! Any quick words before settling in to organize data? Thanks to all involved- the HybridZ community at its' best (and that's pretty damned good). <>

An interesting car song that I heard a few times- "Saucelito Breakdown" by Diesel (off their album 'Watts in a Tank'). Tells the tale of a band in an old Rambler station wagon; IIRC it dies and the shove it into the bay. Doubt if it's on youtube. Edit-- Sorry, got the title wrong: "Sausalito Summernight", re-released as a CD, evidently now a collector's item. http://www.amazon.com/Watts-Tank-Diesel/dp/B000062TA6 <>

As we can't all be there, I'm looking forward to extensive photo documentation on HybridZ . <>

Little Deuce Coupe, by the old Beach guys. <>

How many of the CL55's were sold with the 100 liter tire gespritzen (drifter/dirt tracking) option? Is a smaller tank standard for street race tire prep? Interesting concept, carrying one's own water box. <>

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/transmission-talk/213907-tcc-locking-up-all-gears.html <>

I got ahold of a bad torque converter once for a Chrysler 727. It whined a little like a low fluid power steering pump, as it chewed itself into little shavings. I don't know enough about the converter clutch to say whether or not a failure mode could cause the symptoms you are seeing. I do know that it is locked hydraulically by the TCC valve; they aren't all that expensive, and a lot easier to change than the converter. (If someone is telling you the converter is bad, I'd ask that person to explain why/how it is locking/locked). <>

If you have the engine set to a strong idle (not on the verge of dying all the time), I'd guess that you have a bad/stuck torque converter control valve. It is ordinarily energized by those wires you have not yet hooked up. If the converter is locked the vehicle acts like a standard transmission which has been left in gear (except it will start more easily because it takes engine RPM to activate the clutches). Once the vehicle is started, off you go. When you step on the brakes, you cause something to slip (torque converter clutch/ tranny clutch pack(s) and/or kill the engine. The TCC valve isn't hard to change, but it does involve dropping the pan. Wiring it up is a good idea (to keep from overheating the tranny), and correct TV cable hookup is mandatory. <>

Thanks, curiosity is satisfied. <>

Quote: Originally Posted by z-ya (in the other thread) "The Alternator voltage will never cause the MS to reset (unless it goes below 5.5V, or over 30V). In that case, nothing will work. As long as the +5V logic regulator is working OK, the CPU will continue to process instructions. If the regulator is not functioning properly, it will most likely destroy the CPU and other components running off the +5V logic supply (VCC). I've got 20+ years experience in electronic design and debug, trust me on this one." This is more on the order of what I was considering. Not a little hash in the DC, but a big voltage spike. (I've gotten between an alternator and the battery with a cable off, and got quite a shock). Worst case scenario would be as described above: smoke. I was wondering if some sort of zener controlled crowbar could easily be put on the supply line (set at 20 volts or so) to protect the LM 2937, and thus, presumably, the entire megasquirt device. I really don't have a nickel in this game (just carburetors here) merely curious. <>

I searched for LM2937, and this thread is all that came up. Do all Megasquirt versions have adequate spike protection for all the inputs (and in front of the LM2937)? I have a feeling that this is what Slow_Old _Car is thinking of. <>

The stator is on an over running clutch, so it turns in only one direction. I don't know how long a clutch pack has to slip to change fluid color and add that distinctive burned smell, but it doesn't take a whole lot of full throttle slipping to burn a clutch pack. (many horsepower being dissipated as heat). Lack of shifting may have multiple causes... governor, vb gaskets leaking, balls, crud in the valve body, who knows? I've heard that some people don't like kevlar frictions because they might shed fibers to muck up valving (could be an old mechanic's tale). Stock 200-4R pumps (similar to the one in your trans) can have trouble maintaining pressure at very high RPM; there's a fix kit for them. Looks like a come-back for your transmission man. Good luck. <>

Fuel level may have been the problem, but if you were climbing hills in the mountains at the time, it could also be a plugging fuel filter. <>

Easiest way I can think of to run air our of a tranny system is to have the drive wheels in the air (off the ground, with no way they can EVER touch, even if they were way out of balance and began jumping up and down), then run through all the gears a few times at idle/low throttle. Use the brakes to stop everything before shifting to park, reverse or changing direction (you knew that). Eventually, like with a garden hose, everything, including the converter should fill up; your fluid level may drop & need more. Be sure the car is ENTIRELY stable so that it can't drop and the tires catch-- that is a recipe for disaster. HTH, although by now this may not be the problem. <>

Thank you, gentlemen. I think the little automotive cube relays are generally rated at 20-30 amps; it should have been sufficient... live, and learn. I had a diode to catch the voltage spike, but didn't know the trick of adding a resistor equal to the coil resistance. Slow opening may have contributed to the relay's early demise. Hopefully the 10 amps my VOM will handle is enough to measure the current draw; I'll see how hard it pegs the needle, and go from there. <>

My wife just burned the points off a cute little cube shaped plug in relay that we were using to switch a transistorized electric fuel pump. We have a few more relays, but... don't like using something known to fail. Search didn't find much and my personal knowledge on the subject is nil. So, fellow hybridizers... What is the best source for relatively high current DC/DC SSRs, and what sort of protection do they require, esp. on inductive loads? (Got a circuit?) Google found a couple stores: Last 2 items on this page- http://www.futurlec.com/RelSS.shtml Third item on this page- http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchResultView?langId=-1&storeId=10001&catalogId=10001&searchType=k&searchValue=solid%20state%20relay&categoryId=353570&rscount=32 Is there something better for fuel pumps and/or the high current Taurus fans? (I promise I won't mount a solid state relay against one of my headers). <>

This place sounds great! Since you will be building benches from scratch: One of the handier features I've seen under a bench was a set of shelves/trays on really heavy duty full extension glides. They were framed on all sides in angle iron (actually bed rails:D ) with 3/4" bottoms. Handy for heads, manifolds and other stuff a guy would rather not be tripping over. <>

Busy street may be good for business, but the constant noise gets old. It's possible that your wife may never be happy there; can't garden, no yard in which to relax, you ignored me when we bought this place... Also not a great place for a family, if that is in the future. You can always build a shop. <>

Clifton's ride-- Sanitary. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119558 <>

As you have noted, the car has a problem... sounds like the dealership doesn't want to deal with it (under warranty). They may hope to ding you for bigger bucks later. Black soot in the tailpipe of a modern vehicle is by no means normal; the catalytic converter is there to burn any leftover hydrocarbons, which it isn't doing. Converters sometimes plug up; if yours isn't plugged (just not getting hot enough to fire off???) it soon may be. Since the vehicle is not using any more oil than usual, I'd say you're right about it running rich. As a guess, the oxygen sensor is no longer telling the computer the absolute truth. If it keeps screaming LEAN-LEAN-LEAN, the computer will tell the injectors MORE-MORE-MORE. The turbo throws in a bunch more variables that I'm even less qualified to assess. You need a good honest tech. .02 worth from a guy who has never had a car with a turbo, a computer, or a catalytic converter. <>

You are very welcome. Boy, do I speak 'Priorities'. <>