A. G. Olphart

This sounds good for the cylinders; knocking the brake pads back, then sprayng the rotors (as previously mentioned) is also a good idea. If it were my car, I'd back the rockers off to release valve spring pressure as well. May not be needed, but why stress the 'open' springs for 3 years? Anyone know how to stop brake cylinder rust? <>

Guessing games are so much fun... As stated above, the clutches are a little burned, but not to the "fails to move" stage. Since you have books on the trans, you may be able to look at the elements applied in various gears to find what blew. Reverse problem may be easy to find... Be interesting to know, even if it isn't the trans you will be running. Low pressures (Pump wear or leaks it can't keep up with) lead to slippage and burned clutch packs, but not generally to catastrophic failure. (You've heard the tired ones, engines screaming, car barely moving... those aren't all high stall converters ). The steels turn blue/black, and the frictions start looking like the steels. Stinky/burned oil, generally black in color (not the normal clear red). Might a failed seal have leaked enough that as the fluid warmed and thinned, pressures dropped and gave you your drive (forward) symptoms? Anywhere in the reverse circuit a seal might go away and even affect forward gears? Just having fun guessing... have only built a few old 3 speeds, far from an expert. IIRC, Jakeshoe was the only one we had. <>

Thanks, guys, I feel a LOT better about myself now. Almost thought I had a tool habit, but guess not. <>

A set of Smith's torches has worked well for me; the tips are very easy to change as they seal with o-rings. (Yes, a guy needs to be sure the o-rings aren't old and cracked). <>

With my 110 volt Miller Sidekick, I prefer .023 wire, thinking that if it takes a little less heat to melt a given length of wire, more heat goes into the base material for a given wire speed. Then again, the heat is normally set fairly high, too. Wire welders can be a lot of fun. <>

You are correct... it didn't make a lot of sense; that was basically the problem. I like HybridZ a lot, and the people on it who make it what it is; I've no desire to shut down anyone's posts. At the same time, I strongly believe that technical posts need to be authoritative, so the information here can be counted on. (Because of that, you won't find me trying to troubleshoot fuel injection problems for folks: I don't know Diddley about FI or many other things). I also make my share of mistakes; when you find one, call me on it. No harm, no foul. Peace. <>

Darn, I tried not to make it personal; looks like I failed again. We have quite a few young members, some of whom wouldn't know a Stromberg from a Weber having grown up around fuel injection. They are a big reason that I feel our technical posts should be accurate. To answer your current question: NO, your original post didn't look like a typo, as you went on to say a Quadrajet might equal a two barrel's mileage in light driving. (I personally believe that a properly tuned Quadrajet should be able to better a two barrel's mileage due to those tiny primaries and the low power level required for plain cruising). As to your personal expertise... For all I know, you may be like Grumpyvette, and know pretty much all there is to know about cars. Assuming that to be the case: Proof read your posts! And no, I won't sue you over it. <>

Sorry, but you got it exactly backwards: The Quadrajet primaries are tiny, the secondaries are huge. They make great mileage carbs... that is why GM gave them the tiny primaries. (Tuning them requires a bit of knowledge). We need to keep the quality of technical info at HybridZ above reproach. If a person isn't dead sure of his (or her) facts, they shouldn't be posted. <>

Doesn't relate to the specific seats you are inquiring about, but may help anyway... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123335 <>

I'm a fan of George Goble-- http://www.ambrosiasw.com/Ambrosia_Times/September_95/2.5HowTo.html From Wikipedia- In 1996, Goble was awarded the igNobel Prize in Chemistry, for preparing a barbecue for cooking in less than 5 seconds by the use of a smoldering cigarette, charcoal and LOX (liquid oxygen). This act attracted the attention of the West Lafayette, Indiana fire department, which warned him to never let them catch him in the possession of LOX near a barbecue fire ever again. Scroll down about half way for a picture of George having fun.: http://www.neatorama.com/2006/06/08/top-10-coolest-bbq-grills/ IIRC, George is also the brain behind propane/butane blends (like HC-12a) as a replacement for R-12. They work marvelously, but the government doesn't like them much due to flammability. (Gee. what about gasoline at FI pressures)? <>

Shouldn't be a problem... overdrive trans with 3.54 or the 3.7 limited slip rear. Why not swap in a 280 turbo as you don't plan to go hog wild? (Not sure how the milages compare). <>

There seems to be some validity in thinking Datsun L6 goes a long ways, and SBC may not. Strictly personal opinion, but I think the average Japanese block is harder, so it doesn't wear as quickly. GM has a history of building stuff to sell, and seemingly provided better quality where they felt it was needed/justified. (For example, the Gen I "10/20" blocks, with their higher nickel/tin or tin/nickel... I forget which number represented what content). A friendly machinist might be able to confirm/deny or expand on this. Don't have any idea how the current stuff may last. <>

I've never understood why the 307 gets so thoroughly dissed... sure, it's down on cubes, but how well it runs depends on the parts added (heads, cam, intake/carb and exhaust), and how tired it may be. Still, not a great choice for hot rodding as parts are same price (or more) than the more popular 350s. The 'soft block' tale is BS: I've run across 307s with high nickel blocks. Sort of depends on how GM was feeling the day it was cast. If it runs well, leave it there and enjoy driving it while you build a killer 383 or 406. Actual engine codes should be stamped on the block's deck surface in front of the (US) passenger side head. If the engine has been decked, could be gone. Chilton's manuals used to list these codes. HTH <>

Much easier to come clean now that you've turned red, isn't it; you know we won't pick on you! <>

You have one sweet work area going there, and I love the door-- 18 feet? Congratulations on your progress and tenacity; the trusses and roof should go much more quickly. <>

I'm looking for a tall, comfortable OEM seat with lateral support-- The thinly padded racing shell I had in my mid engined Corvair broke me of that sort of thing. These are for a road car that will only make a trip or two to Thunder Hill. It isn't being built to be competitive: Engine is only a 350 with a 204/214 cam, auto trans. <>

Mine was rebuilt and precharged by a hydraulic shop; nitrogen is SOP there in accumulators as a safety measure, to avoid possible fires/explosions in case of a failure. I doubt if engine oil at under 100 PSI carries much risk... but I don't know at what pressure engine oil will diesel. Perhaps we have an engineer who can tell us what the critical pressure range may be? <>

Can't say what year they were-- earlier though, as they were in the self serve yard in Chico. Presumption bit me again: I presumed that all Miatas have had similar seat back heights. (Mazda must have learned something by 2003). Thanks Tim- I'll put the later Miatas on my watch list. <>

So long, Ernie... Truly sorry to see you leave. If your new interests don't eat up all your time, Come on Back! <>

Thanks, Doug... I'll check out an M3. Looking at that handsome young guy in your car, if he has more than a 31 inch inseam, M3's may be a bit thick in the seat part/ high off the floor for me. As to "master fabricator"? You have me confused with either Ron Tyler of differential mount fame, or John Coffey, beta fabricator to the stars. I do a bit of welding, but it is all farmer style... no TIG here. I even do hay wire/ baling wire repairs. (Hay wire, by the way, has served me a few times as a decent gas weld filler). Thanks for the compliment, however. <>

Like Tony's, my 'accusump' is nitrogen charged.

Thanks for the replies. OTM, it isn't so much my height (6 feet) as how tall I should be; I'm 6 feet with a 29 inch inseam, so I sit tall in the saddle. (One of those funny looking bandy legged guys... a high- from the floor- seat won't work for me). OTH, I need a tall back/ headrest to keep my head from flopping back and forth in a wreck. Ron, I'll look into the Vette seats. Where a thin back would be important to you, I need shallow but comfortable on the seat part (may have to slide it forward to reach the pedals and steering wheel). Veritech, the Mercur Recaro problem is what I'm trying to avoid. I'd like to find something with a tall back and side bolsters that fits low enough for me to do track days (wear a helmet with a bit of roof clearance). I sat in a 350Z today; those seats are nice, but someone mentioned they are heavy & they will also be scarce yet. I'm hoping to gather a good list of possibles & head for the yards in Rancho Cordova when I finally get my car (a 72 240) on the road. Thinking ahead. <>

I think I've read through most every 'seats' post on the board; my eyes are getting weird. Most of the posts don't go into seat back height-- important to me in case of an accident-- and address width. I don't need seats suitable for a 400 pound person, but I'm 240, 40 waist and won't fit many/most racing seats. Guess I'll cruise the new car show rooms for inspiration;there aren't many late models in our local junk yards-- mostly end of life stuff with worn out seats. PS- this is the closest I've come http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108611&highlight=350Z <>

Tried searching, and about all 'tall' gets is "don't use these if you are' advisories. Any suggestions for a really long waisted guy? Miata seats and the like are about the right height to snap my neck if rear ended. The original Z seats aren't as bad for height, but I'd like some lateral support. TIA <>

I didn't like these things due to their expense, complexity, and battery replacements down the road... Turns out there are environmental costs as well. http://clubs.ccsu.edu/Recorder/editorial/print_item.asp?NewsID=188 <>