SUNNY Z

Well some do. I guess the one i was looking at was a front/rear combo. Thanks

It definitely will if you don't coat it. I'll probably do stainless v band assemblies throughout .... fine i'll stop trying to be budget minded.... Side note - opened up my t56 today, its worse than i thought. It needs about $500 in parts / upgrades, oh, AND a $500 cluster gear... FML

The only ones i was finding were complete sets with perches on them. Maybe i'm not searching the right thing?

Thanks for the replies. I would agree that it would help in bracing, distributing the shear force across 4 bolts instead of 2. Hmmmmm I guess time will tell on what I end up doing.

I've done a good amount of searching here and on the google machine, but I can't quite find what i'm looking for. I'm doing a ground control coilover kit, and was recommended that i buy tokico illumina BZ3099 Thanks in advance

Well, you could get stainless or mild really.

The numbers you're giving, and the times are consistent - thats not what the debate here is about. I PERSONALLY was thinking to myself, in my own little bubble, that the engine is not making what it should. My AFR Headed 11.3:1 228 duration .590" lift STOCK CI ls1 made 440 rwhp through a ford 9", t56, with AC, and power steering in an F-body. AGAIN, not a stab at you, but the engine combo and numbers dont mesh. my guess is the headers are seriously choking you down.

I agree, that site is pricey. It is cool that you can buy parts of the assembly though. Also, to be clear, the one site is ~$40 for a SS 3" setup, while the other is ~$66, so not quite half price. I'm sure there is a quality difference, but $16/clamp? Let YOUR wallet decide. And while we have the site with the silicone elbows mentioned, what size intake tube are most ppl running? I planned on ordering my intake setup from them as soon as I figured out what i wanted.

Do these have the locator flange machined into them? I'm not sure if its worth the extra money (~$10), but that's what the headers have, and are supposed to be the best, and the easiest to install. I was also unsure if I wanted Stainless V band clamps for the rest of the exhaust, as I don't really have the capacity to weld SS (very well). I have a Miller MIG which CAN weld it - to Mild steel (rest of the exhaust) but its not always pretty, and can be a PITA. Here is where I was looking at V Bands

I could do that for sure. Basically when i got my motor, the oil pressure sender was broken off, so it made it convenient to just drill it out, tap it for NPT, and then run a 45* bend to the sender. I was able to fit the autometer supplied sender (HUGE) and still had room. Correct. I ordered from Columbia RIver Mandrel Bends I've used one of their kits before. Reasonably priced, and the quality is top notch. I'll be sure to post some pictures though.

Where did you buy your V bands dave? The ones I found were ~$50 per clamp (and ends) I guess I was being cheap. Believe it or not, I AM on a budget lol.

Well the mufflers and 3 bolt flanges showed up yesterday, and the mandrel bend builder kit should be here monday. I also ordered the remainder of the wiring, which should be here either tomorrow or monday. I also ordered a full poly bushing kit ($$$), which will be in around wednesday. In the meantime, I'm going to pay a good friend of mine a visit this weekend to tear down the the t56 and learn to rebuild them myself. I also completed the above mentioned relay panel in aluminum, which i'll post pics of later. Thas all for today!

what intake manifold? I'm still baffled that this thing didn't make at LEAST 450 rwhp. There are guys with heads/cam ls3's doing 500+ through an auto . Something doesn't add up. Thats all

Searched, but found nothing conclusive I've seen where some people have cut the front crossmember for the diff out when using a Ron Tyler style diff mount, using only the pieces that hold the LCA's on. I was considering doing this exact setup, and I was just curious if anyone has seen any ill effects from doing this? It would make running my dual exhaust easier, along with making a diff swap easier, if it came to that. Please post any positive - or negative REAL WORLD advice, not "well it could do x or y". Thanks

Thanks man, and I'll be sure to post a pic when the table is finished. Sometimes you just have to get your hands dirty and make mistakes to learn! I never had anyone help me, just the forums and the net, and turning wrenches. The only thing to it is to do it! I would suggest relocating your oil pressure sender to behind the intake where the factory oil pressure sender is. Its to the drivers side of the MAF sensor. The only thing the factory sender does is run a gauge. I'm using the factory sender for my autometer gauge. My sanderson headers necessitated the moving of it in the first place. so glad i did.

I didn't actually install them. As per blake's instructions though, you just remove the drivers side engine mount bolt, and jack up the engine, and then slide it in.

ls1 fbody tank, flipped 180*. Not stoked about it, but it was free.

Well I have ordered my mandrel bends, mufflers, flanges, more battery cable, relays, wiring, and connectors. Everything should be here by the end of the week. Some very minute wiring to finish, and then i need to get the fuel filler figured out, and we should be cranking! Hard to believe, but its coming soon!

First, I was more referring to the actual rear end setup. Also, what does the car do on motor? Weight? I'm really curious about all this because the engine i'm thinking about putting in my car is roughly the same HP. I will also say that 428 rwhp, even on a mustang dyno, sounds low for this engine / car combo. Those LS3's are animals!

Please don't ever say nos again.

Found it in the thread....nvm

Nice trap! What's the suspension / tire setup? Stock 6 speed?

2600 will buy you a 5.3, a t56, and a swap kit

I'm thinking a 90* boot will probably remedy that, but it still might take some persuasion from... something idk what. The duals should be relatively easy (more tunnel room than a 4th gen F-body) if you can believe that. It helps greatly that the driveshaft won't be moving down, as it does in a live axle car. Also, no god forsaken torque arm to deal with. The mufflers are going to be 3" magnaflow bullets, with the rear of the mufflers being just in front of the diff crossmember. I'll need to take that x-member out and clearance it. Wouldn't be any big thang if I had my dad's plasma cutter! ... I'll figure it out though. As for the crossover, I had originally planned on doing an H pipe, but I might go nuts and build an X. (Again, would be nice if I had my buddy's band saw to cut them with) And again, I'm sure I will make it work. I was planning on doing duals, with one exit on each side. However, I have been toying with the thought of Center Mount Exhaust (CME from here on out). I also thought about doing a no-tips dump close to the rear. Still up in the air. More pressing matters at the moment.... I need to learn how to rebuild a T56 ... But seriously.

Here you beggars go! This shows where the #3 primary is quite close How i have it rigged for first start (NOT PERMANANT) Passengers side Also had to do some clearance work on a bolt to get my drive belt to fit after- before I also took that stupid little in-between the bumper and car thing off today. Gonna make this all smooth and nice eventually Got into this area so i can do the work on the fuel filler... Mock up panel for relays for engine harness and i was doing this all with the doors WIDE OPEN. It was a marvelous 68 Degrees here today! Vague idea of ground clearance / collector location and some of my side projects ls1 cam lamp ls1 (painted like lsx) Coffee table to be