SUNNY Z

You're correct. This car had JTR kit in it when I bought it. None the less, the 240z x member (JCI) mounts the same way. Either is a complete joke IMO.

It's been a while, Update Time! I've been pretty busy with a recent quad purchase (rebuild) so it's kept me from this for the last week or so. I did get the engine back in, with the clutch on it, FOR GOOD! I'm actually going to use an LS7 clutch due to some issues i was having with the centerforce. More on that later. Note the pretty crinkle valve covers and the fuel line thats hooked up! I ran to the hardware store and picked up some line clamps, and was able to make the fuel and brake lines look almost respectable See those gaping holes in the floor? Thats where the JTR or JCI tranny x member is supposed to be. *facepalm* Then you see my mount on the frame rail. I decided to run my wires inside the inner fender instead of through a frame rail. This is for convenience and my own sanity. I had to extend all the wires (solder and heat shrink) so they would be long enough to travel the added distance. I still need to take them to the drivers side also. All this was acquired at the Home Depot for around $20 I also had a ground strap in that harness, and conveniently enough there was a nut right where i needed it. So i scuffed it and viola! Thats all for now. More to come shortly (hopefully)

same here

Waiting on a call back from the shop to schedule an appointment.

Ok, so ask yourself this : Is 6 horsepower and 3 ft lbs of torque worth $350? In my opinion, that's money better spent elsewhere. You did also state that he changed his Y pipe, which could more than accommodate for the increased hp/tq numbers. my .02

The water jacket in the back of the PS head is a M12x1.5 thread.

I'm using a "chevythunder" harness / and a 00 truck pcm. Yes my LS1 alternator clears with some trimming of the plastic on the back.

Not much to update. Drilled and tapped the block for the F body alternator. Got some stuff via mail............. Clutch matster and SANDERSON HEADERS! OMG! they don't fit worth a sheeeeit with my oil pan. I have to move my oil pressure sender to behind the intake, cause it doesn't fit by the filter.

LSx > All

Yessir can get some good prices indeed.

Another question: How long is your clutch master -> clutch slave cylinder line? I'm trying to buy a pre-made line to save some dough. I'd just go measure........BUT my engine / tranny is all out of the car right now.

Yes, the blocks are externally the same. I'm aware of the interference, and it will be dealt with accordingly.

I'll post up a few pictures i have saved if i remember later.

LS1. It'll make 350 WHEEL with basic bolt ons out of the box. Add a cam, and you're WELL north of 400. But what do I know. I jam out to zeppelin with my mullet blowing in the breeze out my T tops

What length bleeder did you guys go with?

Well I finally said screw it. I ordered the OVERPRICED JTR (sanderson)conversion headers as I couldn't find anything else that would fit how I wanted. Its retarded. $500 for shorties? I can buy Stainless longtubes for an F-body for that. Here's about how the transaction went.

Alright, Update time! Had a pretty good weekend. Here's a pic of my fuel rail mods, with fittings to meet my needs. Don't mind the valve covers, they're off for paint right now. Fuel line is still waiting to be fit for a couple reasons I then had a couple buddies over, and within about 20 minutes, we had the engine and tranny back out, and the engine on a stand. I was torquing the cam gear and the rest of the valvetrain, along with some other stuff. While it was apart, I took the liberty of taking the oil pump off for some cleaning, and to shim it. Here is the exploded view Pic of the bulky autometer oil pressure sender installed THIS LITTLE BASTARD. It was one of the manifold bolts that was snapped off when I got the engine. I drilled it out, (broke a drill bit doing it) then, luckily had another bit the same size, and went ahead and heated the head, and finally got it broken loose. Here's a shot of the final install of the gauges. Turned out nice if I do say so myself. and the backside.... Here's the valvecovers as of now Front cover cleaned and ready for paint Aaaaaand I trimmed the tunnel a touch to clear the shifter Thats all for today! Hopefully gonna be making a couple key purchases this week, and start wrapping this thing up!

Man that stinks. Thats the reason I'm going to build my own mounts when I go turbo, so I can snake a 4" DP through that same area. Build is lookin good!

you might have better luck on ls1tech. There are a ton of fan questions over there. Also, TONS of great info regarding LSx engines. G'day

Are you going to run the downpipe next to the pass side engine pedestal? How big of a pipe are you limited to?

Oh, I didn't even realize it was an auto. Not worth the cash then. If it was a 6 speed it woulda been.

"Buy it now"

Yeah, I decided I didn't wanna mess with that setup, as i already had a car pulley, and found a deal on a car water pump. I now have all LS1 accessories. Thanks though

Thanks! Evercoat Maxim Urethane adhesive ~$40 Wax and grease remover ~15 Sandpaper~ 10 Duplicolor Bed Coating - 2 @ $10 each = ~20 Bondo - ~ 10 Misc supplies ~ 5 I'd say a Benjamin would get you there. I don't wanna know how many hours of sanding, etc. I have though. My guess is 12-15? I'm a bit of a perfectionist though.

Well i still have yet to find my camera. So I used the ol blackberry. The camera was kinda dirty in the first couple pics, so please excuse that. Here's the dash after I topcoated the problem areas with some good ol bondo. and again Then after two coats of Duplicolor Bedliner (400 scuff between coats) As you can imagine, I was VERY happy with the results. Labor intensive as it was, it was definitely worth it. note: not for those who don't like sanding, and don't have patience I then took it upon myself to mock up the Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites I also got bored with my LS1 intake. It was kinda dingy, and I wanted it to look fresh. SO, I sanded off the casting marks with 80 grit, then 220. 3 coats primer, wet sanded with 400 in between, 2 coats base (gunmetal metallic), wet sanded 400 in between, and here it is after 1 coat of clear. (gonna do at least 2 more)