SUNNY Z

I'd run ~20% tint if you plan on driving it around daytime at all. Thats what i run on all my DD's and also my toys. Love it.

This thread needs MOAR of this.

This. There are far better (and less bulky) options than the god-forsaken clam shell.

The main reason is to have the steam vents from the heads go above the engine, so they don't overheat. There is a lengthy discussion over on LS1tech about how since the rear isn't vented normally, it can cause the #7 cylinder to run hot. I plan on venting all 4 of mine to the little billet radiator hose fitting shown in the pic above.

Yes, the heads were milled to 62cc (66cc stock IIRC) to bump compression. Cam was installed straight up, with no advance ground into it.

This is great news, Dave! I'm quite ready to get this car back and start finishing it up.

Excellent info, thanks a ton. I hope to have the car back soon, and as soon as i get it on the road, I'll be doing the above mentioned tid bits.

First off, LS6 injectors might not be enough. I'd hold off on buying them until you get it tuned with the new cam, and see what kind of lb/hr you'll need. Also, by a 20th do you mean like .020" Decked? What CC combustion chamber would that yield? Standard lifters are good fairly high. I have LS7 lifters in my camaro, and it Pulls HARD to the 6750 limiter. Cam size generally does not denote the need for solid lifters. That is more of an RPM - based decision. ALSO when spinning to high rpm, or with a big, high lift cam, you really should go to a dual spring. PTV clearance can vary greatly from cam to cam. It also has a LOT to do with the LSA of the cam, and the lift, not just the duration. For what it's worth, I run a 62cc AFR 205 head on my Camaro (stock 2002 bottom end), with a Vengeance VRX4 cam (228/230 .588 /.591 on a 112 LSA) , and i had PTV issues. I had only .007" on the intake and ~.085" on the exhaust. I ended up flycutting my piston for the intake valve .093" to yield the recommended .100". Here is a GREAT Sticky pulled from the GURUS over on LS1tech.com http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/327734-cam-guide.html Read up, and good luck!

I understand they're real reviews. I was just wondering if anyone had tips for my particular situation.

I was hoping for some more real-world reviews from people with high HP street cars, but that is GREAT info as well. Good to brush up again.

I hope it was a "full service" shop

Alright, I'm going to be doing some small suspension / brake stuff when winter rolls around, and I was just curious what would be the most bang / buck mods. The car is a 78 280z, with a Chevrolet 5.3 (mostly Stock) and a t-56 trans. (Car will probably be getting a turbo in the future, starting ~500rwhp.) The car will see 96% street duty, 3% Drag duty, 1% auto-x I've looked around at the brake options, but I'm at a bit of a loss on opinions. Also, what would be a good coil over - shock setup for this kind of driving? Thanks for the help

I apologize for the slow nature of this build. Its out of my control at the moment, as my car is still with the builder for the LT headers that we are doing a group buy on. I hope to have it back soon........ until then, I guess ill keep looking at the parts pile in my shop lol.

I apologize for the slow nature of this build. Its out of my control at the moment, as my car is still with the builder for the LT headers that we are doing a group buy on. I hope to have it back soon........ until then, I guess ill keep looking at the parts pile in my shop lol.

If you're referring to me, then no I have not. My car is "on hold" right now. I also don't like the bulky clamshell motor mount design, so I'm going to be modifying mine eventually.

I've been told by a couple people that the engine moves around quite a bit. If you have a cammed engine, you'll want poly mounts IMO. But stick with rubber on your trans mount.

Here we go, a LONG time coming. Here are the pics. Eat em up!

I don't know why not? Give it a try and get back to us! I personally would.

I just hope i remember where all the parts are / how they go together when i get my car back

Ok. so on that note, does anyone have a standard rotation procharger kit in their car? If so, what bracketry?

I bet the LS1 runs better

IIRC, there's like a plug covering a fastener. Pry that out with a screwdriver, go to town. Maybe post a pic if you can't get it.

IIRC, there's like a plug covering a fastener. Pry that out with a screwdriver, go to town. Maybe post a pic if you can't get it.

Ok, so i have a chance to pick up a procharger kit for stupid cheap. its a truck kit, so its standard rotation. The LSx transplant kit uses the same head unit, just different bracketry.What I'm asking, is for someone to take measurements based on these diagrams, and tell me if procharger's lsx transplant kit will fit in the engine bay. I have a bad feeling that its going to conflict with the driver's side strut tower, but hey, a man can dream! If someone has time to measure this out, I would really appreciate it! http://www.procharger.com/pdf/LSx_Serpentine_lr.pdf Side Note: I got to tour procharger's facility (KC KS) the other day for my job. I have never been so hot and bothered on the clock . It was absolutely amazing. For those of you that might not be familiar, go check out "procharger F4" on youtube, and prepare to have your mind blown.

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