Dudeboy

The Jegs, Summit or Longacre pushbutton switch panels are easier to connect. Depending on which one you get the panel may or may not be fused. I re-wired my 77 and installed a Longacre pushbutton starter, but i will look in my stuff for my notes before snatch everything out.. Keep in mind if ypu go pushbutton, think about having a kill switch and/or some type hidden security. Second, i swapped in a LS1/4L60E and I ran the neutral safety switch through the pushbutton starter. Someone correct me if I and wrong, you have to wire the clutch pedal switch into start button for stick shift cars. Safety.

Haniel20, A majority of the LS swaps on this site were done with a combination of Johns Car's kit ( http://brokenkitty.com/) and Jags that Run LS1 swap parts ( http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun-Z-LS1-V8_Order.html). Additionally a few have fabricated there own drive train mounting parts, so it really depends on your expertise, money, tools and time. You can not compare the LS swap to the RB swap, or one kit vs the other. You need too talk to someone driving a finish car that use the CXracing kit. The pictures on the website is not enough, especially without headers and other surrounding parts installed. This is HYBRIDZ, you can go with what we know works or step out of the box and try something new.

TimO, My wife told me one day "do you have to point out every car you see when we go out? " and my wife was being funny when she asked that question.But, I just watch cars when I am out and I enjoy the car culture from Hot-wheels, Tyco Slot cars, and car shows. When speed channel was off the air I was pissed ! Now I watch Velocity channel and some of the other car shows. That underground street racing show on Discovery is a guilty pleasure, and I have family law enforcement. Oddly enough my son has took my athletic genes, but it is my daughter that is taking auto shop this year in high school and loves cars. My daughter likes only old VW's and 1968-1972 anything SS, Chevy and V-8 ! I know I will be back in it for her. The BBC Chevelle I was looking at was for her !

These are my thoughts as well.

Without a doubt I will always tinker ! I was looking at a Chevelle SS Clone this weekend !!My father has been at it over 60 years and he was my guru on the Z swap so it is not about age, but for me I have been doing this stuff since I was 12 years old (go karts and motorcycles). I will continue to be involved in the car scene because I am Car Crazy, I just want be doing any of the major stuff on my on cars. I am in good physical shape for 50, but my life/world is going in a new great direction and this is a part of my life I want to give up.

The last four years I have had some highs and lows, but more highs and thankful. But, I come to the realization that I don’t have the time and commitment to keep hot-rodding and tinkering with cars. My Z is like a living entity and through raising children, job layoffs and career transitions I have been able to keep that car craziness thriving. I have just enough energy to finish the last few areas on my car, but I am about to let a good friend who owns a speed/race shop tightened up a few things and get it painted. Too many times I have close to selling out of not having time, and not wanting the car to just sit on jack stands. But, I will never sale my car (my daughter will kill me!); I will do routine maintenance and leave the heavy lifting to my friend. I will be 51 this year and I am in that staged of life where I want to enjoy driving versus building. I am not leaving hybridz, but, it is just time to turn in my builder card. My list of toys from age 16. 1971 Datsun 510 ( Lord forgive me for my street racing! my brother and I put a built 2 liter motor from a Datsun truck in this car with some SSS stuff and had it lowered, BFG and Libre wheels ! Lord forgive me. Funny story my Dad drag race professionally ( found out recently my dad and uncles all were street racing !!) My dad a 1966 Ford Galaxy he was converting back to a street car. He asked my brother and I if he gave us this car would we speed in it ? And we both said YES !! so he sold it. My dad said he did not want to be responsible if we killed ourselves. We did not kill ourselves obviously, but it was too late we were hooked on speed and we knew how to make Datsun’s and Toyota 4 and 6 cylinders go fast. 1972 Chevrolet Impala 400 (All original suck gas like a hoover vacuum) I just could not cut it up to lowride. 1988 Fox Body 5.0 ( I should kept this one who knew!) 1987 Toyota SR5 4x4 ( 35x15 Mickey Thompsons, Rough Country suspension, Alpine system, body-lift,…..paid for college when I sold it) 1976 Datsun Z ( took off fuel injection built motor and Triple webers, Centerlines… sold it when my son was born. 2004 Corvette (Sitting in garage under cover with a battery tender. Wife drives to work 2-3 times spring and summer). Still have it 1977 Datsun 280z LS1/4L60E. Still have it There were a lot of grocery getters and daily drivers in between. I had Jetta 90s’GLI-16V with Recaros and BBS wheels that was a lot fun going from Georgia to Boston. Next either Pantera or Factory Five Cobra built to my specifications, and I am done.

The tires are either Kuhmo Ecsta Xs or Nitto Nto5. I have the Nitto nto5 on my car size 315/35 17 on the back, and 255/40-17 on the front. The Kuhmo comes 315/35-17 and 245/40-17. Not sure about the wheels.

Life got in the way today, no car time. But, was calling all the hot rod and electric gurus I know and apparently my car not shutting off is a combination of a new chassis harness and my CS 130 alternator. I was to add a diode or "idiot light " on the alternator exciter wire #914 for painless and for my harness it is wire #14. I did a search on back feeding alternators and this is a common problem when you upgrade the harness and upgrade to a cs130 alternators. Try get in garage and test it out the theories.

Gentlemen I am reading what you have posted and looking at manuals and the connections on the car. I have a CS130/144 Alternator with a battery lug and also a pigtail connection. On the connection end of the pigtail there are two male spade connectors. The instructions were to connect the alternator exciter based on two options. 1. 12 volt ignition fused when not using indicator lamp 2. 12 volts ignition fused when using indicator lamp. I use #2 ? When we were doing the wiring I did not have the Autometer volt guage, the stock volt guage was still in dash? Rags, the the exciter wire originates from my fuse panel harness and I agree there is back feed. From the LS1 pcm harness (Speartech) I only had to make connections for gray wire(fuel pump) orange wire(battery), and pink wire (ignition). I am going to test your theory. Rsicard, fuse panel and switch is fused just as you pointed out and the wiring is heavy guage. Could it be as simple removing the connection from #2 to #1 ? Keep them ideas coming, jumping on it first thing in the morning.

I think my problem may be the Longacre heavy duty harness. The two yellow wires branch off, one tied into accessories, the other yellow wire connected to pink wire for ECM. But, there is a green wire in the harness that is connected to the starter solenoid. This may be problem.

The fans are controlled by ECM. The two toggle switches to the right are driving lights and wipers (do not plan on driving in rain!! ) but just in case. Wired the car a while back, but I am going to tear into the wiring Saturday. By the way Thanks - trying to think logically about car electrics.

Dom, No, it want start without flipping the toggle (behind red cover). I flipped that switch on I hear fuel pump, gauges and diagnostic lights come on. It started up and scared the sh$$ out of me ! Hit the toggle to turn it off and it kept running so we kind of went into panic mode to turn it off. I have the Kwik wire manual in front of me and I am going over the ignition and motor group wiring again, and trying to figure it out.

I am stumped on this! I have a Longacre switch panel toggle switch/pushbutton start and Longacre Heavy duty wiring harness with these instructions: Brown wire – to battery or power source (you can pick up power at the starter motor). The larger ring terminal goes to the battery cable terminal. Two Yellow wires – one wire to ignition system; one wire to any accessory you want to shut off with the ignition – gauge and warning lights, tach, etc. (NOTE: Both yellow wires are connected to the same source. Two separate wires are provided for your convenience.) Green wire – to your starter solenoid. The smaller ring terminal goes to the solenoid. From the Speartech harness and instructions the LS1 orange wire is connected to the battery. We connected the LS1 pink wire to one of the Longacre yellow wires for ignition crank and run. We flipped the toggle switch that is the other yellow wire on Longacre panel connected to fuse panel and the LS1 diagnostic port lights up and fuel pump kicks in. I hit the pushbutton and it fires right up! Problem!! The toggled switch does not turn car off. I have to disconnect the battery to turn off engine. If you have toggle switches/ pushbutton starting what I am doing wrong? Let me add the car has been re-wired with a Kwik Wire 8 Circuit hot rod harness. By the way get this straightened out, bleed the brakes and bodywork/paint finally done !!

I see you are in Texas, outside of a local tire franchise check with Discount tire and Discount tire direct. I have 315/35 17 and 255/40 17, Nitto NTO5. Nitto also has 555 in this size. Kuhmo also has 295/35 -17, called the XS. Not sure about the XS sizes for the front.

I have the Wolf Creek CV axles as well,and my dad and I questioned what side each Axle should go. Left side based on standing at rear of car. I had this page as a guide: http://buildthreads.wordpress.com/2009/11/18/project-510-cv-driveshaft-conversion/ With car on jack stands, I used another hydraulic jack to raise an lower hub and it made a difference.

KTM, Going on 6 yrs there are so many things I would change! I do like the neatness of the fuel line / rail in the photo. The Wolf Creek CV axles was a smooth purchase and installation process. Will see how it handles a mild build LS1.

Disepyon, The alternator/bracket is a alternator only bracket kit from Street and Performance (http://www.hotrodlane.cc). Yes, as a afterthought I would make changes- but then I get into the what if ! And while I am at it change this or that. In the future I may put A Ls1 Carburetor kit and a TKO 5 speed in the Z if the opportunity is presented. For now get the Z running, fix any bugs and painted.

Hey Joe, Thank you, I don't remember the sequence of the light coming off or on. But, I have the ignition toggle and push button start and I have some circuits have to take off the ignition toggle and put on accessory toggle switches. I should have connected my pink wire from ECM to the push button start alone as well. The one thing I am not sure about is- What do I do with the coil wire that is in the main fuse panel ? I wired a 66 Ford Galaxie and it was butter ! I had electric gremlins before the swap, I have no regret upgrading I just have to figure this out and I will watch the light as a measure of what is working. I will be physically up and running in a couple days, and a couple hot rod buddies are helping me. I will post my mistakes and fixes ! Thanks again.

Made a bit of progress and moved the Z from my Dad’s garage to my garage. I had already gone through with re-torqueing bolts and checking for leaks. I knew the electric would be the area I would need patience with. So with a power probe I checked all grounds and then all hot wires and everything was good. But, NO START!!! I do not have a key ignition (key is just there to lock steering wheel). I have a race car panel with toggles and a push-button start, and looking at diagrams for wiring a LS1 with toggle switches, separate fuse panel and a battery disconnect, I have an idea where I made a mistake. Two days after this photo I had hernia surgery, so I want be working on the car for a few weeks –but I can’t wait to get back on the Z.