Dudeboy

Simon, There are a lot of issues you have to take take in consideration before you even begin the parts lists. Johns Car kit and JTR LS1 parts handles the main parts for doing the swap. But, the parts needed change if you have a 240Z vs. a 280Z (fuel delivery and gas tank), the condition of your Z before you start, going with a automatic 4L60E vs. a T56 6spd and now Keislers make adapters for TKO 500-600 5spd. So, searching here, LS1tech.com, hotrodlane.cc (Street and Performance ) and create your swap parts list based on the car you have 240? 260? early or late? 280?, and what you want to do --show car, track car, daily driver or just a weekend cruiser. Me personally, I have got parts from Summit, Jegs, Oreilly Auto Parts, Pegasus Racing Parts, MotorsportAuto, BlackDragon Z parts, Ebay, Mcmaster-Carr, Speartech (harness and computermods) -this is what I can think of off the top of my head. Everyones vendor lists for there swap might make some interesting reading.

The S30 can be all the above, but you have to break the bank to do it as stated. Speaking as the owner of a C5 vette, there is a similar debate raging between C6 owners and C5 owners. I know two individuals who traded in there C5s for newer corvettes, and just was not happy with the "comfort" of the newer corvettes. Both, have sold there newer cars and gone back to C5. As I get closer to getting my Z on the road, I am looking forward to my Z not being refined and being closer to a race-car than a street car. One other point, the run-flat tires on corvettes serve a purpose, once you get rid of them and get regular performance tires the ride is like night and day ! Something as simple as tires make a giant difference in ride comfort.

Mr. Jones, That Z has become my screensaver ! This is Hybridz.org and sometimes I read stuff that goes against what the guys who started this website is all about( IN MY HONEST OPINION). It is good to see some guys stepping out with some different wheel/tire combinations. I ran out of my budget to go with 19 inch wheels and tires and again the Black Z above is a good looking Z.

There really is no reasonable low cost way to go to wide wheels. You either have to invest in changing over to five lug to either Ford 5 lug or GM 5 lug pattern, and your wheel options endless. Your widebody tire sizes (rear) range from 335/35 -17, 335-30 18 and then your 345 /19 and 20's( C6 ZO6 sizes). Boze, CCW and HRE off the top of my head will make you a 4-lug Datsun bolt pattern wheel, at a minimum you will pay $2000.00 for wheels alone and the prices goes up from there. It costs to go wide, unless you get lucky and run into a great deal. Also, tire choices Michelin PS2, BFGoodrich, Kumho, and Nitto -Goodyear.

I have seen the photos of the car at MSA convention in its new yellow paint scheme. It use to be Red, and I have pictures from the last MSA convention I went to years ago. This car and Darius's first version of his Z is what sealed the deal for me doing a V8 swap. I will look for some old photos and info - Eric Neyerlin no longer has the information on his website.

I know you can't weld fiberglass. I am questioning the unibody integrity utilizing adhesives.

The guy might be eccentric, but if you go to the youtube link and got to the link to his body shop the finish car looks pretty good. He utilize body panel adhesive to attach the rear fenders after cutting them to install ZG flares rather than welding very interesting.

It was a challenge getting the engine/transmission in and you are correct, I removed about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of material.

kjones, I am searching on another computer for the picture, but I have this photo for you. I had to remove material off the lower control arm with a grinder and a dremel tool. I had buddy come over weld in a steel plate were we removed the corner of the LCA. What i did not realize was my transmission tunnel needed a couple of more hits with the BFH ! The 4L60E was butted against area a little deeper into the tunnel. We are talking literally a few more whacks in the tunnel would have gave that 3/4 inch to 1 inch clearance for the driver side header to fit. So i did number three in your response.

Here you go: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/35622-oil-pressure-switch-per-jtr/page__p__282257__hl__fuel%20pump%20switch__fromsearch__1entry282257

rickdench, Take a look at drgas.com or .net. I played with the idea of a nascar type exhaust utilizing square tubing. A bit on the expensive side, but if I get the opportunity and money to do this again drgas nascar exhaust will be the route I go.

Leon, You are right !!! My kids and wife like to touch- I will be proactive heat wrap was already on the need list.

I am running sidepipes for several reasons, the first being true dual exhaust ( I have patriot sidepipes that have been drilled out) and not being able to run longtube headers hopefully the engine will breathe better. Second, if I ran dual exhaust to the rear of the car, I would have changed over to fuel cell and fabrication and more money ! - Sidepipes eliminated my fuel tank issue. Third, outside of buying the sidepipes, I installed, mounted and had to re-weld my O2 sensor bongs ( my little pat on the back) !! Last, I am AC Cobra, Factory Five MkIIIV, Superformance fanatic and like the look of sidepipes. Also, if the area of sidepipes that is not shielded becomes a issue with the wife and kids, I will wrap with heat wrap.

If you are looking for steel flares, the best transition to the Z body are the Porsche 930 Turbo flares. There is a Gunmetal Gray Z with Porsche flares floating around the web. I have a picture in album of the yellow Z with turbo flares. I post a picture of a red Z my brother e-mailed to me. I think the guy who built the yellow Z got the instructions from the guy who built the gray Z on how you cut the flares down the middle, remove middle sections to get the arch to fit the wheels you are going with. I have a set of Porsche fiberglass flares you do the same way, but fill in with fiberglass, instead of welding like the steel flares.

Outside of wheels/tires trying to figure out what brakes, I have been hesitant to pull the trigger. How to deal with the parking brake has been a major factor, and Dave has possibly solve this, especially if you go with his Wilwood brake kit. Thanks for posting.

This visual may help you. Drop down to the second page for the LS1 info.http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/waterpassageLTLS.pdf I am using a aftermarket heater, so you need to check out a factory manual for the flow of the 1973 240z heater, this will get you going. Good luck, Glenn

John, The APC steering wheel looks good. My steering wheel has held up for about 6 years (3 years on the road before the engine swap), so it is a great option from stock wheel and the expensive steering wheels. LOOKS GOOD !!! Glenn

Here in Georgia we have Eddie Radatz or Balance Performance http://balancedperformance.com/performance.html and the new guys doing some nice work is Garage Zero http://garagezero.com/ Good Luck

I like It !!!! If I ever have a little bit of money, I want to build one. Second, hold on to the hood scoop, they are very hard to find !!!!

WOW !!! Amazing workmanship. Check it out: http://www.legendarymotorcar.com/site/552

First, don't throw anything away !!! Do you have the 1972 Datsun 240z factory manual ? I just rewired my car with a Kwikwire harness, I could not have completed the re-wire without the factory manual. Also, Label, Label (Thanks Vinh !) Outside of a few trace wires, I could label and test wires and there function and then match them up with the Kwikwire harness (GM colors). Also, I replace all of the stock connections with weather pack connectors and some two pin, three pin and five pin male/female connectors I bought from Ron Francis electric. This was posted on this site Factory manuals here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Look for DP25-Lite Orange BC-25 over black in the Kosmic colors. The third photo at the bottom gives a clearer view of the color without the sunlight. Also, take a look at 1974-1975 Saab - Sepia #2-5046M and 1974-75 Datsun Violet/Wine Brown 201-4545M. By the way, I have a friend who is a auto paint/body man, he finds this stuff for me !!!

This is a simple turn/hazard signal switch, it does not have the self canceling. I had so many wiring issues, the stock combo switch was one of many issues so I just removed everything stock except the rear taillights and dome light.

I just completed a re-wire of my entire car. I replaced the turn signal stalk with this. It was real easy to wire and install, this is a simple hotrod turn signal.