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Dudeboy

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Everything posted by Dudeboy

  1. The complete re-wire is done and the dash is back in, and I tested each circuit and so far so good. I need to put the fluids in and check for leaks and re-torque and re-tighten bolts. Big thank you to David (1 tuff Z) for his time and information as I move on to the next phase, brakes and axles, which I am looking forward to !!!
  2. Dudeboy

    Dash Back in

    Dash is back in.
  3. It is straight forward, it is more for racing, but I adapted the connections for street and safety. There are three wires, brown for constant 12v, yellow for ignition and anything you want to turn on with ignition , and green to start, and two toggle switches for accesories. My son wanted nitrous !! I went with wipers and driving lights for the toggles. I had to figure out how to connect the LS1 ECM /wires (pink wire) and the park/neutral switch (purple), to make sure my son who's 12 yrs old wouldn't start the car in gear !!!. I have at all written down, if you go this route shoot me a PM -This was a process of re-wiring the whole car, because the stock harness was a rusty fire waiting to happen.
  4. Longacre Toggle ingnition / pushbutton start panel. I using the other two toggle switches for the wipers and Hella driving lights.
  5. There may be a ZX with a LS1 swap, however I have not seen any info posted on this site. The guys that work at the Autozone I go too, just told me there is a mechanic with Honda S2000 with a LS swap who does not live far from me, so there could be a ZX-LS1 out there, just not on this forum.
  6. There is one issue I forgot about once I put the drivetrain in the car. I do not know about the T56, but the 4L60E transmission pan out of the F-body does not have a drain plug. You have to drop the whole pan to change the transmission fluid. To make it easier to change fluid,you either install a drain plug kit or change out the pan to one with a drain plug. I plan on changing to a pan with a drain plug. It would be easier to drill the pan, but I can not confirm on the F-body forums if the drain plug kit (nut and bolt) interferes with transmission filter.
  7. I am into my swap about 3-1/2 years, wife and kid needs, house/ appliance needs and even a job layoff. My advice would be to put your z swap plan on paper or spreadhsheet, I did not at first and I bought stuff I did not need, and just changing direction. Try not to settle and get the drivetrain you truly want you will be happier in the end.
  8. House of kolors has that color chip. Oddly enough the UK House of kolor site is much better than the U.S. site and you can find the code.
  9. I went with automatic for a few reasons, one being this was a good deal on a drive train that was in very good shape before the PO crashed. If I came across a good LS1 with a T56 at that time I would have went that route. Since, I went with the 4L60E I started doing some reading on paddle shifters, (Twist Machine, Mastershift) and that is in the plan after I get the car up and running. Finally, my C5 is 6 speed and rowing gears is fun, but I have no regrets not waiting for a LS1/T56 and or buying a 6 speed.
  10. Do a search on Common Snapper, i know sounds wierd. Go here: http://www.auto-otaku.com/home/2007/11/japanese-pro-to.html
  11. I had a extra toggle switch, so I said what the h$ll !!!
  12. These lights were for my wife's Mini cooper-Sold the Mini, and the lights were in the garage, I had a leftover toggle switch, so I went ahead and put them on the Z.
  13. Thank you guys for the replies !! I will take a look at the pentosin. The engine has not ran since it was pulled from the Trans Am about two years ago !!! But, we drained all the fluids just before I put the engine in the Z. I will either flush the system and go with the green stuff or go with import coolant. I am not going to use Dex cool, the more I read, the negatives far out weigh the positives. Rejracer, that is some good information. Thanks
  14. I am ready for my first start up, and I am buying all the fluids that I need (oil, transmission fluid and anit-freeze)and I read the 2002 Factory manual recommendations. I did a google search on Dex Cool and quite a bit of negative information pop up as well as a proposed class-action law suit. Have you guys seen this and what are using for anti-freeze instead of Dex-cool. Thanks P.S. (my vette is under warranty, so as soon as I find more information, the Dex cool is being removed)
  15. Dudeboy

    Z with wire wheels

    This picture was sent to me when my brother was in San Diego CA. For the street Z's, Dayton wire wheels and Centerline Autodrags were very popular.
  16. This is a before shot of the Longare toggle switch and before I cjange the guages.
  17. I am writing down what I want to do in the garage and sticking to that checklist for the day !!! Thanks Vinh ! Will get the dash back in the car this week and connect the dash harnesses, to the chassis harness. I will find a good location to bolt in the grounding bus bar and make a few connections and wiring is done. The Mojave Flex a lite heater and switches was a pretty straight forward install, so I am finishing the wiring and the heater install as it is beginning to cold. Before: After:
  18. I was not sure where I was going to put the heater switch for the Flex a lite heater, so while wiring the dash this spot just below the toggle switch, look like a good spot.
  19. Dudeboy

    B&M switches

    The B&M Quicksilver is wired for park neutral and reverse light switches. The switch will need adjusting once I get the car running.
  20. I am getting close to completing the wiring of the whole car. I have searched here, LS1tech and googled but I am finding different scenarios and answers that are not clear and precise. This is what I have, 1. Autometer Electric speedometer #4489 with a "Sig" and "Out" connections. 2. Speartech harness with a white wire to connect to speedometer. 3. 2002 Pontiac WS6 Trans Am PCM 4. Automatic 4L60E transmission. To connect PCM to speedometer, I have read: 1. Connect white wire from PCM to Autometer speedo at "Sig" connection. (Do this only) or 2. Tap the VSS wire purple coming from the PCM to Transmission and connect this wire to the "OUT" connection. Also, connect white wire from PCM to "Sig" connection. There is "NOTE" on my insturctions "The speedometer provides an output (OUT) terminal that can be used with late model vehicle installations using the existing Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). In these installations, the VSS signal wire should be connected to the SIG terminal of the speedometer only. The OUT terminal should then be connected to where the VSS output was orignally wired. This will provide a buffered VSS signal to the PCM/computer in the vehicle." WHAT?? I read some other ways of connecting the speedo with some cutting and splicing, but the info was not clear. So those with Autometer electric speedometers, and /or Speartech harness, how did you make your connections. Thanks, Glenn
  21. Making a little progress ! The engine, lights, park/ neutral switch and engine merged into chassis harness is completed. I have a closed loop grounding kit and most of above is grounded. I need to mount grounding junction, connect grounds to horn, taurus fan , engine to chassis. Got a question about the Autometer electric speedo, which I will post in the LS-GenIII-IV section. What is left to wired is Hotrod signal switch, Generic gm headlight switch, and Flex-a-Lite heater. I wired the dash and toggle switches and installed weather pack connectors on one end and installed the other side of the weather pack connectors to the chassis harness. Next week, time permitted can put dash back in car connect 5 junctions of weather pack connectors, I can test the electric as a complete unit and start her up !!! I can move on to brakes, axles, carpet, put seats back in, buy tires and install ZG flares.
  22. Dudeboy

    Finishing wiring

    Kwikwire 8 circuit harness mounted on driver side firewall.
  23. Thanks Clive. I will take your advice on the tire size.
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