Phyxius

sorry to hijack....but i saw no use in starting a new thread titled the same thing... how do the diesel rods compare to the stock rods other than being longer? are they heavier/stronger or built about the same?

I have to replace my starter at least 3 or 4 times a year... It will start acting just like yours did. I'm not sure what they are doing wrong, but the gear will just fall out once I take the starter off.

The metal we used was .062(1.58mm) and will require shimming to get back to the original thickness. I did this because I could not find any metal 1.65mm exactly, and going a little small is better than going a little big because you can alway shim up. What time frame are you guys looking at for getting these?

It was my pleasure, but you are the one that kept me motivated and were willing to step up and commit to buying before they were even cut. If it hadn't been for that, I would probably have never done it.

You guys who want clutches: 1: I need to know how many and what kind. There are two styles of clutch in the LSD's... the friction plate and the friction disk. The friction disk is the only one that I have made and is the one pictured above. I can make the friction plates but it will take some time to perfect the cutting code. 2: I've been unable to determine why I keep breaking tools. This makes me want to move towards a softer metal... or at least one that is not heat treated already. The problem with that is that they may not be as strong. If you want them made from the polished, heat treated 1092 above, I will need 1 tool per 6 clutches. That will make the price go up a little from what Jon and I agreed before I started cutting. Bottom Line: Figure out exactly what you need, how many, and what material you want it made out of. I can give you a better idea about the time frame and cost then. Just a rough estimate "shooting from the hip" so to speak, you are probably looking in the range of $15-20 per clutch.

I'm using the same thing except the one i got had some sheared clutches which i've heard is a common problem with those units. I've cut some new ones (see the threads in Drivetrain), and i'm putting more/stronger clutches in it to prevent any further failures.

Thanks... As far as the holding up part goes, I'm 100% sure that these are stronger than the stock ones and I'm putting more in than the stock diff had, so there should be no problems with the clutches holding up. If anyone needs some particular part cut, I'd be more than happy to do it if they paid for all the material and a little for my time. I'm anxious to stretch my new found CNC legs.

Laser cutting would have definitely been easier, but it would have been more expensive for just these few clutches. I could still have a lot made by laser cutting if there were suddenly a demand for them. I don't think I care to try to cut any more of this stuff with my tooling. If someone else wants to buy and send me the appropriate tool, I can cut some more. I can't garauntee tool life though > And yes, if you are satisfied with the clutches, I'm ready for some money. If you'd rather me mail them to you first so you can take a look and then send the money, that's fine too.

I've been to the 1/8th mile. The best I pulled was a 8.73 at 84mph. My 60' really sucked, so I feel like when I get my lsd and some better tires, I should be low 8's or high 7's. My goal is 12's in the 1/4

Yeah, they are for the R200 LSD. All of the stock clutches are a 1080 series steel. I decided to use a 1092 that had already been heat treated. That is what led to all my tool breakage. the stuff is just too hard to mill

about 15-16 psi on 93 octane

The other thread was getting a little bloated, so I decided to start a new one. I have some good news and bad news. The Bad: I broke the new tool the day I got it. That is getting very aggrivating. The tool's coating showed no signs of wear and the feedrates were 20% slower than the fastest feed that I've cut the material at. The Good: I managed to cut enough clutches for myself and jmortensen before the tool broke Here are a couple pictures:

that looks very s2000ish

I hate to dig up such an old post, but is it generally agreed that spacers with longer lugs are better than adapters? It seems to me like spacers could be more difficult to center if the inner diameter was not perfect for the car. Also, a longer lug will stretch more than a shorter one assuming they are made of the same material and same diameter. Then you have the wheel to spacer interface where the only thing centering the wheel is the lugs. The only thing supporting the lugs is the hub (assuming the spacer isn't hub centric and/or the spacer lug holes are slightly larger than the lug diameter), and that's now more than an inch or more away. Seems to me that all this would cause bending lug studs and wobbling wheels. Probably evenually ending in lug failure due to fatigue. Adapters on the other hand if not hub centric are still centered by the lugs. The wheels are then centered on the adapters usually by another centering ring, but again also by the lugs. It just seems to me that adapters would be more stable. Anyone care to comment?

Re: Clutch: I'm making a little over 300 to the wheels with the specs in my sig. I've been running a $180 clutch that I got from ebay for almost a year now. It's held everything I've thrown at it including several days at the track. It's a 6 puck Copper Ceramic sprung clutch with a HD PP. I think the guy that is selling them is calling it a XTD clutch. I'm sure it's just a unit that he has relabeled. It required very little break-in. The only thing is if you are going to be doing hard launches, you are supposed to slip it a little to heat it up first. That's a little backwards from organic or kevlar clutch linings. It tends to be grabby, but you can quickly learn how to avoid it by changing the way you actuate the clutch.

I think that was definitely the best FNF movie. It really should have been called something else to set it apart from the others though....lol

It is to some extent, but it's a price I'm willing to pay to learn how to use this CNC and get my LSD together. The two clutches that were sucessfully cut (there were 2 failed attempts before), I did completely on my own. I had another guy showing me the ropes before, but I think I'm getting the hang of it. I think my next project will be some wheel adapters

I managed to get two clutches cut from the steel that I ordered before I decided to be a dumb*** and slow the tool down to 2000rpm and it broke. I ordered a new end mill and it should be here Monday or Tuesday. The blue temper on the spring steel looks awesome. It's almost a shame the clutches will be hidden from view.

I'm having some trouble with breaking tools. This material is harder to machine than I anticipated. The inner part cuts okay with the smaller end mill, but when I try to cut the outer with a larger one, the end mill wants to break. I've considered cutting the outside with the small end mill, but I'll have to change the way I'm mounting the metal to do that. Again, I'll keep you updated

i'm pretty sure that IC won't fit in a Z car. I have a 24" IC in my ZX and it BARELY fit. I'm also running a cheap Ebay intercooler, and I've had no problems with it. The quality of the welds looks good, and it's taken everything i've thrown at it.

Here is a picture of a clutch that we cut from a scrap piece of stainless. Don't pay any attention to the spot around the outside edge...that was there before we started cutting. I'll keep you updated on further progress.

The main problem i see with sequential setups is not overspeeding or surging the smaller turbo once the bigger one comes on. It may not be that big of a deal, but it seems like something you may want to consider.

The material and tools should be shipped in the morning. I hope to have it cut by the end of this week, but no promises.

Matt73GNZ said that he'd like a set, but hasn't said how many yet. I'd assumer 4-6. So if he takes 4 and you take 4 that would be perfect. As far as hardness and shearing goes, I don't think that will happen. My clutches look like the ears were cut off -- Like the material yielded at the edge and was slowly cut off by the corner of the slot. It's a nice and smooth. The way that I understand it is that when a material fails due to being too hard, it's due to an impact and the part cracks...kinda like glass. Even though a hard launch is sudden, I wouldn't call it an impact. The yield strength on this material is over 100,000psi. With 6 clutches to distribute the forces over, I wouldn't worry too much about the ears coming off.

This 1095 spring steel is just about the hardest stuff around. I didn't realize exactly how tough it was until I started looking at the numbers for the tempered stuff. It will be ordered heat treated, tempered, and polished at .062" (1.58mm). After heat treating, tempering, and polishing, the Rockwell Hardness is about C50 where it was about C30 to begin with. That is getting into the tool steel realm. Being polished, it won't require removal of inperfections like I was worried about. I think they will be at least half again as tough as stock clutches if not twice as tough. What do you think would be a fair price for these? It looks like the material and tools would cost around $90 for about 14 clutches. I'm not trying to get rich off of this, but I would like a free set of clutches out of the deal, so if you split the cost among the remaining 8, it would be about $12 per disc for just tools and material. If you have no objections, I'll set the price at about 12 per, but you can send more if you feel so inclined .