Phyxius

The guys at that website say that's a non-stock item. I've a sneaky suspision that they won't be able to get it either. He's checking with the supplier to see, and I'll call him back this afternoon.

I don't believe subaru ever made an R200. I searched NASIOC.com thoroughly and couldn't find any reference to a subaru r200. If they have them in stock, that's great. I've ran across several people to list them, but can't get them anymore. I'll give them a call and see what I come up with.

Ok...so here is where I am. I've drawn up a friction disk in CAD. I feel that it is very close to the original part, though I can't be sure because both of mine are broken. I compared it to a picture that jmortensen took of his, and it looked very close. I'm still researching materials, but I've narrowed it down to a high carbon 1000 series steel or a 4000 series (most likely 4340). These are all very tough materials and are likely better than what was originally in the differential. Now here's the kicker... I can get stock in 1.6mm or 2.0mm, but nowhere in between. I'd rather not have to mill the thickness down if not absolutely necessary, but the raw stock will probably have some scratches and such on the surface. Also, the 1.6mm stock would allow for 6 total friction disks in the differential if the big spacers are taken out. That is a great improvement over the 1 that came in it. Now, I can have these made for a reasonable price (~$20-30 per disk) considering Nissan doesn't love us anymore. I may even draw up the friction plate as well and offer an entire clutch pack. The questions are what is the demand for it, and would it be worth my time?

well... the 1.75's are NLA as well. I guess I'll have to try searching existing stock... Or attempt to make my own. Are there any steel specialists on this board that could advise on which alloy to use?

bad news from nissan. The 1.85mm disk is NLA.

I just had a wonderful idea. I could us 4 disks @1.85 and the 4 plates that I already have and then mill the spacers down to whatever thickness I needed to make it work (about 1.25 each, I'd assume)

I wonder what the right kind of steel is... I can't seem to find a good way with 1.85mm friction disks (those are the cheaper ones) to eliminate the spacers... I'm getting very confused by all of this. Everyone has reported different clutch pack thicknesses. Yours were 20.1, Nissans were 23.65-75, another was 20.8, and mine is 23.51. I'm not sure what to shoot for. If mine and your clutch packs are the same, I can't think of where 3.4 mm worth of difference would be, unless you only counted 1 spacer...

I also wonder if i could cut my own clutches out of some steel from mcmaster on the cnc machine at work....

I found this on Courtesy Nissan's site. The smooth clutches are nearly half the price of grooved clutches. http://www.courtesyparts.com/nms/s13/s13_4.html So far, this is the only online source I've been able to come up with.

Don't get me wrong, I'm very excited... lol. a LSD for less that 200$ is a steal. I'll be sure and let you know if I find a good source for clutches.

Is it true that it takes over 6 weeks to get clutches from nissan??? That's insane for such small pieces. Are there any other sources?

For reference: Washer - 3.20mm spring plate - 1.70 spring plate - 1.68 friction plate - 1.68 friction disk - 1.70 friction plate - 1.70 center chunk - 69.67 friction plate - 1.80 friction disk - 1.75 friction plate - 1.70 spring plate - 1.70 spring plate - 1.70 Washer - 3.20 Total - center chunk = 23.51 if I added correctly.

Here you can see the model numbers... Here are all the parts of the internals. Note only 2 spring plates per side. No spring disks. Also note 2 friction plates per side and only 1 friction disk per side Here are the 3 clutches for one side. Note the spiral grooves and axial grooves. The friction plate on the left shows some wear. Probably due to the tabs from the friction disk when they broke off. It is not severe, and I think it is still servicable. Here is some sort of buildup on the side gear. It prevents it from coming out of the pressure disk. The other one has a similar buildup. Perhaps this is remnant of the tabs that broke off? Here is some wear made by the pinion gears on the inside of the pressure disk. It is very smooth... with no edges. I figure it is supposed to be there since there is nothing to keep the pinion gears from rubbing there.

I didn't notice any, but I'm about to take some more pictures and post them up...

Well... I found out why it was acting like an open diff.... As you can see, the tabs that hold these friction discs have been stripped away. Must have been something pretty violent to cause this. Maybe several 6k rpm clutch dumps or something? Everything else looked okay. There was fresh gear oil in the diff when I got it, so someone must have done that in a last ditch effort to remedy the diff not working right... who knows... I guess the question now is where can I order 2 new friction discs from? *EDIT* I also noticed that I have 4 spring plates and no spring discs. You can see that my friction disks have a spiral groove. The friction plates all have axial grooves ( like the spokes on a wheel). it also doesnt seem that I have as many clutches as some others have reported...i'm about to take look again.

Are you saying that the r180 axles will plug into the r200? I thought there was a size and spline difference...

I think I'll do it with the tabs as well. Thanks for the info. My halfshaft is the sort without the seperate flange that goes into the differential. The U-joint attaches the splined section to the main section. Are all R200 halfshafts the type with the seperate flange? Are the flanges bolt in or circlip in?

I'm sure it is an LSD. I don't have pictures, but it's got a full cage with only a few holes and i can see the pinion with the cam on the end between the pressure rings. on the simming thing... I got some shim stock in .004 like you said, but I'm not really sure what shape to make the shims. I'm thinking a donut shape would do it but may be hard to reproduce exactly for each shim. That is what I was afraid of. There aren't many salvage yards around this area and very few have Z's of any sort. The chances of finding anything that's not a z31 are slim. Does anyone have a 280z pinion flange they'd sell me? Also, I forgot to ask this before... Will r200 half shafts work with this diff? And will r200 half shafts bolt to the stub axles where the r180 half shafts did? (i'm still trying to decide how to get the power to the wheels)

I found it at a local jy that I frequent. A new arrival was a maroon turbo z31. I walked over to check it out...looked under the rear and my heart hit the floor...there...was a finned cover. I hastily checked the door plate to make sure that it was the right model year to have a lsd and it was! I asked the owner how much and they he says... "$100 brake to brake...just leave the wheels" I had to take it out, but I still feel like I stole it from him. So, I now have it sitting in my kitchen along with the cv axles, both control arms complete with brakes. I would have taken the rear subframe too, but it wouldnt fit in my car. Now for the questions: 1.) While it was still in the car (and the car was lifted), I turned one wheel and the other turned the opposite direction (with the car in neutral). That struck me as odd so I turned the driveshaft and both turned the same direction. I took the cover off just to be certain that it was an LSD. So the question is, does it need rebuilding or shimming or what? There was no metal or any other foriegn matter in the oil. 2.) I've read about the possibility of using the z31 cvs and stub axles in the 280zx control arms using the z31 bearings. The details are still a bit fuzzy to me about if the z31 cvs are too long or will fit if the stub axles are swapped out. Can anyone clear this up? 3.) I've asked this question in another thread, but I figured I'd ask it here again... Will my driveshaft that is currently mated to my R180 bolt up to the pinion flange on the z31 r200? Thanks in advance...

Will a driveshaft from a '79 with a r180 bolt up to a r200 LSD from a z31? (i did search btw) Thanks!

has anyone picked this up yet?

I may also be interested...pending pictures..

are you using the setup from an '81 or '82-'83? The '81 had a CAS and the dizzy was empty of electronics. Timing was adjusted by playing with the cas...