Phyxius

Sure you don't want any spares? Also, I may be able to be convinced to write up a cut file for the plates as well if there is enough interest. Clutch disks: JMortensen - 4 x 1.625mm

McMaster is a little high, but that was the only place I looked besides online metals. Online metals has it, but they have it in rolls. I couldn't figure out how to straighten it to make the parts we want with the equipment that's available. I was thinking make them on the large side first, and then mill them to the desired thickness. Sometimes when you get raw metal you get some surface inperfections that need to be milled away, so it's always a good idea to mill the surfaces. It's only one more step in the process and about 3 lines of code to do, so it's not that much more trouble. Deciding what thickness to end up with is another issue all together. I think you may have forgotten that I am wanting enough clutches to replace ALL of the disks. So you have to add the thickness of the 1.75mm disks in with the washers. You'd have 6 disks, 4 plates , and 4 spring plates when it was all said and done if I'm thinking right. The order I'm thinking from the outside of the diff in is: spring x 2, disk, plate, disk, plate, disk::center It is also feasible to replace one spring per side with an appropriately sized disk and having 8 disks total and haveing the spring act like a plate would make 6 plates total. I'm not sure if that's a really good idea from and even wear standpoint. It may be that the spring gets completely flat when compressed, or it may only touch at two points. I suppose the same is true with the first arrangement that I listed. So it may be better to go with 4 disks as you suggested with the extra disk near the center, leave the spacers in, and replace one spring per side. I guess it really just depends on what you want to do. It wouldn't be a really big deal to make 4 disks that were the 1.625 and 2 that were 1.75 to replace the old disks or whatever. It may be necessary for you to remove some flashing when the parts get do you depending on how cleanly I can cut this stuff. The same thing that makes 1095 good for this application makes it tough to cut. I can't immagine sitting and cleaning the flashing off of 30 some disks, so I think I'll let you guys do it with the method of your choice. I'd recomment a circular file or a dremel with a grinding stone. Also, my work may say that I have to buy the end mills to do this with since there are so many, and the material is so hard. I'm starting to think that it may be easier if this is gonna happen for more than myself and jon that I should buy all the material and tools and just charge everyone some price per clutch. I need to know exactly who wants some and how many they want.

4130 is a good metal, and would probably work, but I think the 1095 (i said 1092 earlier...my mistake) would be much harder and resist shearing off the ears a little more. 1008 is way too soft. You can get 1095 from mcmaster.com for sure. I'd link it, but their website won't let me. If you really want to order from online metals, we can try 4130. Honestly though, I think 1095 is a better choice. A single discs will require a 4" x 4" square of material. anything over .070" thickness should leave plenty of room to mill to the proper size. Also keep in mind that I have only set up to cut discs (ears on the inside)... not plates... since those are the only ones I need. The problem with a group buy is that I can't be making too many at work. They won't mind me using the machine, but I don't want to wear out my welcome. I feel save making enough for 3 or 4 people, but not much more than that... not all at once anyway. I could take the cutting file to a local cnc shop and see what they would charge to do a large run or something...i don't know...

I hate to keep draggin this to the top, but we got a mass spectrometer at work, so I just had to put a clutch plate in there to see what it was made of. Best I can tell, it is a high-carbon 1000 series steel. Something like a 1080. Now I know what to make it out of, so it's just a matter of getting the material. I'd like to use 1092 just to be better than stock. Now that school is out, I actually have time to work on this again... so If anyone is willing to buy and ship enough material for my six and theirs, I'd consider cutting it for free (Satisfaction guaranteed...lol)

I've got so bogged down with school that this project has ground to a halt. I am still planning on making these, but I was only going to make enough for myself using the CNC machine where I work. I've nearly got the cut file finished, and all i have to is put the stuff in the machine. If you guys can stir up enough interest, I may consider having a batch of 50 or so made by an outside source. I can't make a lot at work or I'll get in trouble...hehe

are you sure about that? They are both at the same level in the cylinder, but if they were both on the compression stroke at the same time, that would mean both cylinders fired at the same time which isn't so. I believe #6 will be on the exhaust stroke while #1 is on it's compression stroke and vice versa

I ran into the same problem when searching for them a couple years back. The flat top ones are common, but the dished ones are hard to find. Call courtesy nissan. As far as i know, the only people who still make cast dished pistons are based in australia.

To me, North Mississippi is one of the US's best kept secrets. We have mild winters and 90* summers. Land is cheap, and Memphis, TN is close, as is Birmingham, AL. Atlanta is only 4 hours away. I've been looking at cost of living here vs. CA. If I made 35k a year here, i'd have to make 55k a year there to maintain the same standard of living. Not worth it IMHO.

Have you blocked off the pop off valve? I'd assume that you have. There are many things attached to the manifold that if not operating correctly could cause a leak.

sounds like a boost leak or a stuck open wastegate to me... My t3/t4 hybrid spools to 15psi in about a second from 3k rpm. Sometimes my charge pipes will get loose and it will start taking longer to spool.

Reproducing something as complex as a car accurately without a 3d scanner is nearly impossible. You can come pretty close with perfect profile photos, though. I once attempted to draw a P-40E Warhawk in CAD. It looked a lot like one but I never got it good enough to suit me. I'm not trying to discourage you though . When you get the 240z done, you can draw a 280zx btw... If you'd like, I can get you a trial version of Rhino. Just shoot me a PM.

I've used Autocad, Unigraphics, Catia, and Rhinoceros v2.0. As far as easiest to use and learn, Rhino takes the cake. I still use it to draw things and then import them into other programs. Unigraphics and Catia are both high end packages that cost lots of money and have way more features than you would ever need (FEA, assembly modeling, etc.) The main thing about learning how to CAD is learning the mindset you have to have. Once you do that, adapting to other packages is quite easy. I've been working with CAD, FEA, and CFD for the past 3 years, and to start out with, I'd strongly recommend Rhino.

ugh...this is starting to make my head hurt. I just talked to Nissan Motorsports again, and after the 12 that they have onhand are gone, there will be no more. So I'm not sure what to do.

Some of the pits appear to be too deep to get out with just scotchbrite. maybe .1-.2mm deep at the most. I'm starting to back out of making them because they are still available, and it wouldn't make much sense to build something that you could buy for a comparable price to what you could build it for. So my options are only the 1.75mm disks.

I think my thread has been hijacked....lol

Ok. These parts are ONLY available through Nissan Motorsports. They have 12 of the 1.75mm friction disks on hand at their warehouse. Everyone else who lists them probably does not have them on hand, but can order them through Nissan Motorsports. The MSRP per them is $19.xx. I assume they can ship directly cuz he told me to let him know if I wanted some. The website that shire240 listed said it would take 2 weeks for them to get the parts in order to ship them to the buyer. I'm still considering making my own though...

I've been trying to find a contact number with no success. It would seem to me that any dealer would have access to nismo parts though...

I just got off the phone with the performance nissan place that shire240 listed... It seems that they can still get the clutch disks and at 15$ each, it seems like a pretty good deal. I'm not really sure exactly what is going on now. He suggested that maybe the other places I'd called were trying to get them through Nissan North America while they get them through Nissan Motor Sports... So this entire thing may have been a trivial pursuit. Although the prospect of making friction disks and plates at 1.6 mm means we could fit at least 14 clutches in addition to the spring plates that are already there. I could also probably match Nissan's price. What do you guys think?

I'm not sure if the R180 and R200 clutches are the same. I'm fairly certain the ones from the H190 are VERY similar, but I have no idea about the R180.

I just finished the drawing of the friction plate. I KNOW this one is pretty accurate because I have a complete one

I'm trying to see about making a prototype to make sure my dimensions are correct, or if anyone has a disk laying around that they could send me, that would be great too. Once I'm convinced that my part will fit and do its job, then I'll post in the group buy forum about an actual order. It will most likely take about 5-6 weeks from order to parts. I'm also a little iffy about putting up all the money for this and maybe not being able to sell them all. Is requesting money in advance okay? I've never done a group buy like this before.

There is about .3mm which is a little less than the slop between the friction plates and the lsd housing.

Okay... Here is a picture of what I've drawn. You can see the part of the side gear and the friction disk. The lines that you can see on the outside circle are just a function of the rendering resolution and not of the actual part shape. It is a perfect circle.

That is exactly what I was looking at doing The cost is highly dependant on the number that I make. Heck... If I had enough interest to make 100, it would only cost me about $4 per disk...and I could in turn...sell them for less.