sayitaintjonas

Wow, that looks amazing. Great job!

You might be able to do it without removing the dash, but it would be a real PITA to get to some of the bolts. You might want to try loosening the dash bolts so you could at least move it a bit. And yes, I can feel some air at low speed I wish my A/C was charged so I could actually cool off.

I feel like its a pretty big improvement. Maybe 50% more air? Unfortunatley, I've blocked off my sidevents, so I can't speak to how much air comes out of them. My center vent does put out enough air to keep me from being completely miserable in the 100 degree Charleston heat.

You can get a new one for around $40, but they don't come with the cage. The first Sportage blower I pulled was defective. Just make sure that the motor spins freely or bring a small 12v battery. I put the dash back in the car this weekend and the blower does indeed put out much more air. It'll be put to its true test this summer

Oh man, the leaves....so many leaves. Working on this has kinda given me a bug to do something drastic. I'm looking at all these vacuum actuators and wondering what it might take to remove the entire vacuum system from the HVAC and replace it with an Arduino digital controlled system. Here is a mockup I did using the Tesla interface on an extra tablet I have laying around. I think I have the skills/friends to make this work, but I'm not sure if this might be a bit....much? I'm studying up on the FSM right now trying to figure out the different actuator and water cock positions for different settings. What do you guys think?

I spent several days researching ways to improve the air output on my 76 280z and wasn't able to find a really nice walk through, so I thought I'd share what I did. It looks like most of the people who put 1988-1991 Honda Civic blowers in their Z weren't able to feel a big difference. I noticed some people also suggesting using 1993-2004 Kia Sportage blowers. So, off to my junk yard I went. I found both a Civic and Sportage blower. After comparing the two, the Kia blower seemed better built and had a larger cage so I bought it for $30 and proceeded to my Z. The nice thing about this upgrade is that the Kia blower is roughly the same size, it rotates the correct way, it uses the same wire harness, and it uses the same mounting holes. It just so happens that I have taken my dash out to install a dash cap and add LED instrument lights. I don't know if you could do this upgrade with the dash in place because the entire blower housing has to be removed. This is the guide I followed for removing my dash (PITA!) http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/5934-removing-dash-and-interior-for-paint/ Here is the blower housing location The original blower and cage are on the left. The Kia unit is on the right I removed the foam padding from the fan housing since the kia unit doesn't need the extra spacing. Next, I placed the Kia blower cage over the hole, lining up the bolt holes, and marked the area to widen. I highlighted this in red. Using some aviation snips, I cut out the excess metal. I cleaned up the hole with my Dremel later. I then placed the new Kia unit in the blower housing and secured it using the original bolts and washers. The unit spins free and has just enough clearance The original Z wire harness fits right into the new motor. I plugged it in to make sure it works and it really seems to put out some air. I'll post another update once I get the dash back in.

Pictures?

I'm interested as well.

$40? Great find! Some people have all the luck.

That blue looks really nice in the sun. Awesome project.

Napa sells one new for $61, http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=ATM1470701_0257839519&An=599001+101983+50018+2018016. I just bought one for my 83 turbo.

So I got my new 240 airdam and turn signals, but now I need the turn signal harnesses. If you have one, please let me know how much you'd like for them including shipping to South Carolina zip code 29306. Thanks!

Just read the whole thread from the beginning! Thanks for posting some much information along the way. Good luck!!

I'm looking for a front grille from a 240Z to go along with my new bumpers and 240Z air dam. I live in South Carolina. Thanks

Wow, have fun playing in the rust

Yeah, I learned that putting a car cover on my Fiero caused my cats to knead the fabric and scratch the paint. No cover for the Z!

Mine is white with brown cat paw print "accents"

Well, I was going to rush out and buy a L28ET engine in Georgia, but I think I'll do the more responsible thing and replace the suspension and bushings next. I've still got a lot of research to do before I buy anything though. I'll eventually install and air damn/spoiler/zg flares, 240 bumpers, and new wheels. Like you said, there is a bit of a learning curve

I got it running the other day. Turns out an injector was stuck. I quickly connected a 9v battery to each of my injectors and the car started. Then, I found that 2 of m other injectors weren't firing because the terminals were corroded. I cleaned them up and now all six are firing. Next, I think I'm going to buy this 200cc reconditioned injector set, http://osidetiger.com/reconditionedinjectors.aspx and swap everything out.

You've really done a great job on your car considering you've only had it a month and a half! Thanks for the inspiration

The flap moves pretty easily, but while testing I noticed that it never fully closes. It stays open just enough to offer open the potentiometer. Also, I'm not getting the correct resistance from the air temp sensor. Thanks for the advice

I checked the thermotime harness and the connection between the harness and the ecu harness and both were fine. I static tested the resistance between the switch and switch body and only got 52ohms when it should've been 70-86ohms. I guess that means my switch is bad? Also, it looks like my water temperature switch and air temperature switches are also reading the wrong resistance. What is the likelyhood that all these sensors have gone bad? The car was running, albeit poorly, just last week.

I borrowed a friends test kit and installed it between the fuel pump and rail as you said. I get about 36 psi with the ignition on. So I guess that rules out the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator? Here is my AFM plug with 7 pins

I'll try and take the AFM off my car when I get home this afternoon and send you a picture. Thanks for the offer! I was planning on checking the fuel pressure, but I haven't found out the best way to do it just yet. Should I install a gauge permanently or just use a testing kit? If you can't tell, I'm still new to working on cars