motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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Well guys, i've been waiting to do coil overs on my car for awhile now and just am getting to the point of being able to order everything. I the ground control kit from Gabe at T3 and come to find out there is no registered distributor in the US at the moment for Tokico. Hitachi had it and its all up in the air right now so until it gets ironed out they will continue to be on back order unless someone has them already on the shelf (very unlikely). So if any of you hear when they are back to shipping them out let me know. I don't want to place an order until I hear they are. Thought you guys might find it useful.
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Wonder where this is going?
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Just with a downpipe does sound pretty wicked at WOT though. I like that my car is quiet now. I rode around with straight 3 inch all the way back all this past year and recently put my muffler back on. I won't be taking it back off. That drone at 65 was horrible. In addition these cars attract enough attention both good and bad so I feel better not adding to the bad attention I might possibly attract.
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I'm having a little better luck with the closed loop. I drove the car probably 2 hours today and it is responding well and man I see why people let turing the dial up get the best of them. With the additional boost this thing rips pretty good. I actually like that the boost rolls on later. It drives pretty much like an NA car until I roll into it pretty hard and seems to be cycling the turbo less. I'll keep playing with it but i'm certainly glad the inputs i'm making are controllable and not feeling like the rear is going to fall out on the highway from the boost cut hitting, It holds at target the whole time on spirited runs. I'll just keep playing with how fast I like it to get there.
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I swapped actuators tonight and all seems happy happy. The old one had a rather notchy abrupt movement to it but wasn't leaking. I have my settings on closed loop now. I got it working ok on open loop and switched over to closed loop. I only hit the boost cut once tonight on a very aggressive run shifting from 3rd to 4th. Otherwise it would spool up and hover right around 165kpa which is pretty close to what I want. It doesn't roll on as fast as i'd like but its working right. Also, i'm not sure whether it made the difference or not but the stock turbos have 2 ports on them that T into 1 port then runs to the actuator. I've blocked the lowest port on the turbo compressor housing and just have the top port going to the boost solenoid. I changed alot at once but at least its to a point i can spend some time smoothing it out. Thanks guys.
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I'll probably get to work on it this coming weekend. Time is very limited during the week. Bloz up i don't know where you find the time to do everything you build but i'd sure like to have some of it LOL. I certainly enjoy the build threads.
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Yeah I didn't do much on closed loop. I tried to see if it worked over the weekend but have focused totally on open loop duty cycles.
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I've been doing 4th gear pulls from about 3500rpm. I got it to hit my desired mark (165kpa) on my way home from work and it was consistent but it won't hold it. Just falls back to stock (wastegate spring boost around 145kpa) Making changes trying to compensate for the sag I get just boost runaway is the best way to describe it, it climbs very fast almost like the wastegate stuck shut. I know the wastegate isn't stuck it moves freely no bind but it might be a bad actuator maybe? I'm going to heed your advice because ms seems to be doing what it should other than tunerstudio acting up on closed loop. Thanks for the reply.
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Last week I got my board ready to run a solenoid to control boost through MS2. I'm running a stock L28ET, 400cc injectors, stock turbo with an intercooler.
I'm trying to tune the Open Loop
Solenoid is from DIY
Have the frequency set at 19.5hz as recommended by DIY
Have controller interval at 20ms
Inverted,
Closed duty=0
Open duty =100%
When I lower the duty boost increases as all the MS writes ups recommend.
What I can't get dialed in is the holding higher boost. I want to run 10lbs. My problem is no matter what I put in the Duty cycle map I either overshoot and hit the boost cut, or I don't make any more boost than stock. Its like that initial spool I can't get it to react to bring it back in check and it over boosts. Granted i'm just now experimenting with this but I burnt about 10 gallons of fuel over the weekend trying to get it tuned somewhat to where I want.
I've read the MS2 manual for setting it all up. I've trolled alot of forums, miata forums especially. I've experimented with the closed loop but it has even more settings that affect eachother and everyone seems to lean towards tuning the open loop first. I also experienced quite a bit of noise trying to use the closed loop. Tunerstudio would almost pause, then regain speed, pause but only on open loop.
Anyone have some resources they can point me in the direction of that maybe would give a base line to start at? Maybe a base duty cycle map for reference?
I appreciate any input you can give me
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A tune file might help us too. Maybe an engine running data log?
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I've seen terrible starter postive wires do this or terrible battery to chassis, battery to block grounds. Sounds like your battery ground isn't good.The current draw at start up makes the grounds smoke all over the vehicle because its supplying the ground to the starter with those instead of the big ground like it should. Make sure your spacer plate on your trans isn't causing it if you grounded on that side of the trans bell housing. I usually run the battery ground right to the starter bolt though since the starter gets its ground through the starter body.
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I put this issue to bed this weekend. Its my ignition tumbler. Whats odd is the coil wasn't getting power, however the relay board would, ECU would, and the fuel pump would prime. At points I'd start to crank the engine I'd notice the LED not firing for ignition but the ecu had power which was odd to me but my coil is powered off the stock wiring and relay. Changed the key switch out and its all gone. Fires right up.
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This was a CX racing intercooler, it keeps temps about 10 degrees above ambient temp. Its a little larger than i like but posted it more to show how we installed it. We used an intercooler with the inlet outlet on the same end and went into the core support through existing holes so I didn't cut the body of the car at all. Also, the way its mounted I used exhaust hangers and bent/welded them so the intercooler actually is suspended on the rubber mounts of the hangers. I haven't had any issues with boots ripping or stretching and its been on there a few thousand miles. I will end up using a smaller intercooler later on, this one is way too big for what i'm doing.
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I second the fact that they are very tough motors. I've dished out gobs of abuse on this one second hand L24 i'm running in my one car and it takes every bit of it and keeps on running. Main thing the guys pointed out, smell of gas is a HUGE indicator of the condition of a JY motor. In addition to the oil. Sometimes i'll take the oil filter off and cut them open, look for particulates that are brass, can indicate main bearing problems.
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The DIY wheel, it is such a sporadic event too. I anticipate it being fussy starting sometimes and it will fire right up. Very odd.
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I can't believe how much music was on ours at my last job. It had gigs of music uploaded to the exchange server. It is amazing what you can find if you poke around.
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Hello guys,
Been awhile since i've posted. What i've got, L28ET MS2 3.0 ECU using a single coil with a bip and relay board. Car runs fantastic. Doesn't miss a beat however here lately she's been really fussy during initial start ups. Doesn't matter if its hot or cold. What i've noticed is, if I start cranking the starter, and the IGN LED does not flicker on the ECU the car won't start. I'll cycle the key, let the wideband warm back up, try again. Sometimes i'll pause, sometimes i'll try cranking once I notice the starter drive has released to try but its very sporadic. Sometimes i'll climb in her and she will fire right up, sometimes i've tried cranking so many times I feared i'd have to get towed. Cranking logs look ok, no sync loss and reading RPM. The ecu is mounted inside the vehicle. Anyone experienced anything like this maybe can give me some insight as to whats going on?
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ummm are your tires rubbing
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Starters pull about 150-200 amps during initial crank.
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If they can send me a few pics and details I'd be very interested to see what they have
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Depends on how complete the set up is really. If I could bolt right in i'd spend substantially more as long as its not a whiner. I'm currently running an R-200 with half shafts so the driveshaft has already been shortened. Having some tire lift traction loss issues in turns that I really want to do away with. What do you have going on JSM. Lets talk.
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In search of an R200 LSD, also axles and stubs if available. Parts are being installed into a 73 240z that currently has an R200 3.54 non LSD rear using axle shafts with u joints. Looking to upgrade my launches are terrible. Will need shipped to MD unless its fairly local (day trip)
Regards,
Mike
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What RPM is your idle set at? I had 2 pulleys made for my cars, each had sort of the same issue. Lower output at idle so the smaller pulley makes the alternator spin a little faster than it would with the stock pulley. Food for thought. It makes it a pretty small pulley though.
Tokico back orders
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Not sure how that lasted so long in the "tech" section but it did. None the less i'll wait to see if they re surface. If not i'll find something to work, had my mind set on tokico's though. Not doing Konis I already ordered my springs