motomanmike
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Posts posted by motomanmike
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If you are running a wideband and keep it safe up top like you have started with you are heading in the right direction. You might benefit from spending the coin on the registered version of tunerstudio and utilizing to ve analyze live to get it closer to a manageable level of driveability. Then you can manually tweak it from there. You made anything in boost pig pig pig rich it seems and dropped timing very abruptly. I bet the wideband blinks if you have an external gauge. Glad its running. I run fixed timing with my car, 20 degrees across the board. Its not the most you can get out of the tune but it was very easy to tune it that way and isn't a slouch by any means, this car rips. Using fixed timing simplifies the tuning initially because you don't have that variable messing with your tune, you can focus on the VE tables. The whole area you have above 200 is safe but way too high, you can highlight it and scale it back little by little until she will take boost and not fall flat on her face, keep the AFR in the 11's and lean little by little from there. I imagine the combination of fuel dumping and timing being pulled feels just like the boost cut feature, or hard rev limit does if you hit it. Good luck
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The distributor he's using is optical.
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Did you do a datalog of the dyno session?
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I will be using the stock dizzy with Diy wheel to start.
ready to buy megasquirt ecu just not sure which one is best and easiest to tune.
I would like to control fuel, spark, fuel pumps, fans all with ecu.
Please help if you have experience with megasquirtI'm pretty sure there are guys that do everything you've mentioned here with an MS1 on an L28ET but i might be overlooking something. You can surely do every bit of it with an MS2. MS3 is just vanity if that really is all you want to do and IMO kind of a waste. The benefit of sequential isn't a make or break thing with the power you want but it does change the ecu if you want to eventually go sequential.
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Be certain it isn't your battery causing you problems first. Reading this you state that the battery is from 2009 when you originally did the swap of the alternator. That means the battery potentially is well over 5 years old dependent upon how long it sat on the shelf before you purchased it. Also, why not jump the "SENSE" terminal on that alternator right to the battery stud instead of letting it travel through 30 year old wiring? Unless you want the benefits of a remote sense terminal (long discussion but has benefits). Also, whats your voltage at your battery compared to your voltage at your "IGN" terminal, I've seen issues where the key tumbler cut the 12v to the IGN terminal and caused intermittent issues?
You have 1 of 2 things causing you problems. A bad battery. Or bad wiring,
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I've always run cooper tires on my truck. Never will buy anything else for it.
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I don't recall the user but I know of a story where a guy running the cosmo coilovers bounced the car off the road (crashing it) because of them being so tight and driving on the street. Call it what you want, lack of driver anticipation or knowing his setup well enough but it happened either way on his street Z. They are stiff.
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Hell Keith, I'd gladly buy a built car for pennies on the dollar, and fix it to make it mine. This ground-up building shit is expensive.
No doubt it all adds up quick.
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I like my ACT. Its Summit Racing Part Number: ACL-NX2-HDSS. Holds the power and anything I throw at it for now. I would seriously research that flywheel and if you can run a 240mm clutch with it I'd go that route. I'm not sure how much you gain surface area wise but if you have a little to gain why not right?
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SMH Lee I want first right of refusal on your old ones if you do switch! Serious as a heart attack!
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Getting it to turn is key, that breaks alot of the friction you would fight hammering it. My easiest method has been a pneumatic hammer. I know everyone doesn't have one but if you do its well worth using it or borrowing one if you can. I bought some longer punch shaped bits for it and I cut the threaded end of the spindle pin off (after getting it to turn first) with a cutting wheel, clean flat, then drill a small pilot hole slightly in to the cut end of the spindle pin to give the bit on the hammer a good center point in the spindle pin that won't bounce out of center. Then just chatter away. My first set I did the hard way with a punch and a hammer and a propane turbo torch. I thought I would not be able to move my arm for a week it was so sore the next day. Good luck, you'll get it.
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Get familiar with the shortcut keys on your laptop for tuning. Q and W will be your best friend.
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Lee take his advice, that car is far too nice for anything but a set of factory nissan covers. I know I know, not cheapy but hey, your car isn't built of anything cheapy
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I second the comments on the weld in plates. I did my T3 plates yesterday in the front and spent the majority of my time measuring and double checking placement. Its one of those things that will cause you to have kind of a snowball effect for adjustment if its not true to eachother, the original angle and placement on the car and level. They are great quality parts and with the top hat bearing system they sell with the ground control kits its far more adjustment than i'll ever need for camber. I've seen the EMI style plates installed and raised an eyebrow at it only using 2 bolts to mount but its a total non issue. A good friend has a set of the EMI style on his car with ground control. Its squeeky sometimes but, its seen a few track days at summit point and never had anything move or come out of alignment. I did the T3 plates because i like the upper hat system a little more.
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I feel terrible for you on this. That was a flux core, probably 110. I'm in the process of doing my plates not and stumbled across this thread. Any progress on it?
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A wideband will always help you more than not having a wideband. Running the setup you are it would probably be your best friend at the moment. Good luck
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With your military background you might be able to get a ccw permit in MD fairly easily. Personal safety and transporting money are reasons they will grant them. There's an application process through the MSP. Hardest thing to find anywhere here really is good rounds, and it isn't getting any better or cheaper.
As far as DEM or REP you guys are outnumbered over there on the western shore. The little red blob of MD is down here
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Thanks for the replies guys! I have been looking at around Laurel, i have noticed a lot of places do not have carports or something along that nature. Its annoying. I don't want my Z in the open. The mods on my RallyX car are all suspension and engine, but looks stock. The Z has a built motor, struts springs, exhaust, and a new other things. This move is slowly killing me inside because well i LOVE HAWAIII, but can you blame me?
Everythings a compromise. Hey its like a rainy spring day today here, very odd weather. At least you'll have your cars.
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So I came across these wheels and I really like them, love the NASCAR style (I swear I'm not a redneck) and I have think they'd look really good on my 260z. Just wondering if anyone has any experience/info/knows anyone with experience/info on Bassett. They're steel, 15x8 (the size I want to get) and are avilable in a number of backspacing sizes.
Also can anyone point me to a thread for stock s30 offset? I can't seem to find one
Thaks
All i want to know is why people are so scared to be a Redneck?
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I haven't installed mine yet but am in the process of tearing one of my cars down for the same thing. I can say the T3 camber plates are very thick and the quality looks good.
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Looks like he's got his eye on the finish line with this one. Clean underside, gives me some motivation
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My 73 weights 2506 weighted on the scale at US 13 dragway and the DOT truck scale nearby. Both with a half tank of fuel, both weights within 10lbs of eachother. Other weight was 2516.
L28ET swap, T5 trans, R200 Rear 15"aluminum wheels Stock interior, aluminum radiator, intercooler, exhaust also does have a muffler on it (pretty dang heavy one), agm group 24 battery.
Stock body no mods or flares etc, no cage or roll bar. I wish I had weighed it right when I bought it.
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The reason I have 2 Z cars, I can drive one of them 99% of the time. It still doesn't help the situation much. I really don't want to have to buy Koni I was matching the same setup to all the cars i've driven and this was the best IMO
Unnatural Aspiration part 3
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
That car is very nice! Great build!