drzed

I don't know anything about them but let me know how it works out. How much does it cost (if you don't mind me asking)? I PM'd you with a new contact number.

What shop are you using?

First, as said above get a FSM and read. For the most part they are filled with facts! Until you find a FSM, research via this and other sites but beware - not everyone who posts on these sites knows what they are talking about so the facts seem to get skewed. On the other hand there are many people on this site who consistently provide good info - Warren above seems to be this type. Second make friends with someone local who knows Z's (or at the very least vehicles in general) and have them look at this car before you do anything else or spend any more money. There are lots of good guys in Ontario (Doug??) who could help you out. Now for what we know. The first owner sounds like an idiot and this mechanic might not be much better so who knows what else they have screwed with. The cranking pressure is dismally low but even across the board. There is no formula (at least that I know of) that will give cranking compression from static compression ratio - the reason is that although related there are many other factors that come into play. In your case it could be the wrong head on the wrong block (unlikely) or the cam to crank timing is out (more likely). When you get your FSM you will want to check this out. Now the compression being low on all cylinders and your (potential) water problem are probably not related. After checking out the cam to crank timing you and your new Z friend could pressure test the cooling system but at this point it will run leaking or not. As a side note did you have the head pressure tested when it was off? This is important on L series engines due to the high possibility of cracked heads. Also, once you get this thing running confirm whats going on with the turbo to make sure that the previous owner didn't damage anything. As for the screen just leave it out for right now. If you end up pulling the engine it can be easily replaced from below as Warren said but if you get the engine running an alternate oil baffle system might be required (to save pulling the engine). Good luck with your new project.

"We are the exceptions to the rule, that's for sure, but that doesn't mean that you can't get it right at a young age." I totally agree with you - age doesn't matter. But after reading the above posts I think that HybridZ members must be more sucessfull in relationships that the average couple. Makes me even more proud to be a member. My story is that we started going out in high school and never looked back. This December its been 17 years. Our first child was born 5 months ago - a little boy. We are best friends that will spend the rest of our lives together.

How is the voltage at the coil packs (and/or the computer) during cranking? I had an old GMC truck with poor battery leads whick would only fire after the starter disengaged.

Sounds like something is only getting power in the ON position of the key. Easiest way to check this is to put the key in the ON postion and cross the main power lead on the starter to the soleniod. If it runs something is not getting power in the START position of the key. Good luck.

If you need a front sump L series pan gas maximas had them.

It can be done! Skidoo had a run of 670cc Turbo snowmobiles somewhere in the mid 90's. I've never ridden one but the new RX1 turbos (1000cc 4 stroke) sure move. I've looked into turbocharging a 2 stroke a little and it looks possible if you have the right type of two stroke engine. There are many different types - with and without reeds etc.. There is a chapter in the turbo book I have but it unfortunately doesn't get into specifics. The idea is that you have to watch that you don't blow the mix right through the engine. I think that some of the Skidoos ran a rotory valve to try to eliminate this. The detroits use the blower to give the air a push into the engine but the blower is a fixed ratio so it doesn't push too much air - or something like that anyway. I'm sure any of the mechanics on this site could explain it better. I'm definately no expert but the idea is interesting eh? Good luck and keep us posted. I have a spare sled with a 600cc engine just begging for "more power".

Wow you ran an 11.7! I left just before the end and only saw your 12.4 Cool! Too bad about the GTO but at least you kept it off the wall - It was getting a little slick out there on my last run. I look forward to seeing your car next season with the NOS.

Engine is in and running - sort of anyway. Going to Fridays test and tune and staying to run the night. I only have the slicks on the car and they barely fit with the lips rolled. Yours is a 240Z right? You could install 280Z top hats - this would add about 3/4" to 1" I think. I'm sure I have a set if you want. This would maybe help if you almost clear the tires but with stock springs like I have it slams down pretty hard on launch. Call me anytime and you could pick them up one night this week. Hope to see you there. Mike

Hey cars lookin good but summers not over yet! Have you made it to the track yet? What did it run? If not this Friday is the last chance - then summers over eh? Hope to see you there. Mike

I'm going to be importing a vehicle in the next week or so into Canada, and due to the time it takes for the paperwork to go through I might need to park it somewhere just South of the border for a couple of days. Anybody in the Lynden or Bellingham area with enough room in their driveway for another vehicle? Thanks Mike

http://www.the510realm.com/ All info about show and autocross.

All I can say is snowmobile engine! Huge power to weight and CVT. Probably not too many in Texas though eh.

Oh I'm in - every time I touch either the trans or the engine the entire floor of my shop is covered in the red slop!

Langley The All Nissan Show is coming up in early September - good for inspiration. My email is drzed@canada.com Drop me a line if you want to meet at Mission Raceway one Friday night - that is if I ever get this %$^@$ back together.

Pics as promised. Gasket looks good - hard outline all around cylinders. Block and head also show a definate sealing line although its not as easy to see in the pics. Also included is the rednexx fuel injector test bench (or new fangled still?).

510six thanks for the reply. Is there any other ways to test for cracks other than pressure testing? Anything with dye etc? What product did you end up using to stop the water leak? Is S.top Leak a brand name? Do you know if the gasket was leaking between the gasket and the head, the gasket and the block, or in between the layers of the gasket? I'm curious because I can't find any obvious paths of leakage anywhere on the gasket surface. The High Tack is still in place with no erosion. I'm thinking about just dropping the head back on (after fixing the threads) with a stock style gasket just to break the engine in and run the last 6 nights of the season at the track. This would at least confirm if it is the gasket or the head causing problems.

Where do I start? I finally blew my other engine in the drag car a few weeks ago - pushed the stock style head gasket out the side when I leaned it out "just a little bit more" looking for that extra 10th. Worked good for 2 1/2 years and 100's of runs. Now this forced me to finish up my 3/4 done project engine that I've been working on in my free time for the last year. It is as follows: N42 block .020 over used JE forged pistons 9mm rods - prepped diesel crank P90 head - mild port work SS valves turbo regrind cam mls head gasket ARP head studs custom intake manifold 550cc injectors SDS and lots more stuff! Sooooo anyway, after finishing it up and dropping it in I fired it up last week and tried to break it in. Right away I found that the fuel map was way off (I changed from a 2 bar to 3 bar map sensor and from 370cc to 550cc injectors) and it had a slight miss even when the mixture knob was used to fix the AFR. I did recalculate the RPM fuel and MAP fuel values BTW. So to break in the rings I quickly butchered the fuel curve close enough to drive at part throttle up and down the road a few times. The temps and oil pressure always looked good so I parked it and tried a few things to find the slight miss - checked magnet position, checked fuel pressure, checked timing and rotor/cap alignment etc - all OK. So I pulled each injector lead one by one to confirm that each cylinder was doing its share of the work and they all pulled down about the same amount. Shut the engine down and checked the plugs. 1 and 2 where clean and lean (too lean) and 3 thru 6 where black. Now I started to assume a fuel problem on 1 and 2 so I made a rednexx injector testing station (pics to follow tomorrow) but they all flowed within 1 to 2% of each other. Reinstalled fuel rail and injectors and fired it up. Same miss. Let it cool and out come the plugs this AM. Same conditions. Compression test comes out within 3 psi of each other. OK there. Changed spark plug leads even though the others worked fine last month just in case - no better. Getting a little concerned! Let engine cool and pull valve cover to retorque head. 60ftlbs as per ARP's info using their lube. Most didn't take much but first stud on drivers side took a little and then SNAP! Oh oh? I thought I broke a stud but couldn't believe that could happen. Instead when I pulled up the stud it came complete with all it's threads and all the threads out of the block. $#^*%! So to finish this off I just finished pulling the head off to find piston 1 and 2 VERY clean (steam cleaned?) and the gasket in very good condition with no visible damage or leakage. Now I could easily see why #1 was maybe leaking a little water with one stud almost pulled but why would #2 leak? Can't find any cracks and couldn't find any during prep work either. Besides I've never had a head crack from 1 cylinder through a water jacket and into another. Also wasn't really missing any noticable amount of water from the rad So here is the dilema. Do I helicoil the block and try to save it? I'd like to try. Has anyone done this? Do I reuse the gasket as many of us on here have in the past? Has anyone had a gasket leak a little water and then seat up when retorqued? (my old engine would leak about 1 tea spoon every pass externally but nothing internally - just left a small water stain down the side of the block) Is the miss related to the 2 clean cylinders or ? Does any of this make sense or am I just up late and rambling? (Wifes in bed so I have no one else to tell eh) Any suggestions? Pics of head, block, and gasket to come tomorrow at work. On dial up here.

Seems like a good 60' time for the speed your running. I also don't run at an 1/8 mile track so the number doesn't mean much to me. I trust you are foot braking at the line to get that 60' - with my setup the best I could get before the convertor was played with was a 2.25 or so. A mild convertor made huge improvements for me and its still totally driveable on the street. What was your MPH? Can you post your timeslip?

My 240Z and 260Z as per below 240Z all stock interior and exterior - just the drivetrain changes 2325# 260Z (late model) all interior and exterior stock but missing bumpers, tow hooks, spare, heater and lots of little brackets etc. that are not needed but then add cast iron manifold, turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, piping, auto trans, roll bar and other safety equipment it bulks back up to 2455# Both are weighed at the local drag strip without driver but otherwise ready to race.

Windshield is the same. All other glass is different. Basically the same from the windshield forward in terms of body.

Quote: Originally Posted by spork 100-150 post minimum and a pic of your time slip! I like that as well, it would help keep trolls out... Mike What you didn't believe the guy who had the stock 280zx that ran 12.000 in the quarter but somehow didn't have any of the other data such as 60ft and 1/8 mile times etc? LOL!! Definately a good idea to require the pic of the slip but watch the minimum post requirement - some of us are just a little on the quiet side! Anyway, thanks for starting the database again. Now I just have to dive into the shoebox and find the timeslip again.

James I wish I had your engine in my car! Your MPH with my 1.57 60' would make for a nice quick ride down the 1320! Not quick like you are looking for but a nice solid 10 second car you could drive to the track eh? I have to agree with Scottie-GNZ as both me and a buddy run 260Z's at our local track with similar setups except for I run an auto and he uses a stick. I also have a little more traction than he does - slicks vs drag radials. He has run a best of 12.6 at 115 with his 5 spd car while I'm running mid 11's at 116 with the 3N71B auto. I leave him like he is standing still out of the hole then he chases me all the way down the track. Lots of fun (for me at least)!

It's not good for racing? Hmmm, I guess I'll have to change mine out then eh? LOL! As for not being very strong I would tend to disagree. I have been running a stock auto with 225,000 KM on it for the last few years as a street / drag car. Lasted quite a while dead stock until I screwed up and started doing my burnouts in 2nd gear instead of first. This lead to the 2nd gear band starting to slip so I pulled it apart and replaced the band with a new (but stock) one. Still going strong now with 100's more passes at the track in the 11's. But as everyone has said it's not rare or desireable - I would change to a stick for anything but a drag car with a slow spooling turbo like mine.