pparaska

Soon, soon. But coming from someone who took over a decade to build the thing, what does "soon" mean

Thanks, son The pushlock is probably how I'll go for any fuel hose stuff for EFI, if/when I go that way. Great looking routing, etc !

I will take some pics of how I had my S&W bar installed if it sounds interesting to you or anyone. I had the installer remove a section the hoop in the middle and weld it back together so that it sits up on the raised floor just ahead of the bulkhead for the package shelf/hatch floor. It sits fully between the inner wheelhouses. I'm sure this isn't NHRA or SCCA legal, but it was the easiest way I could see to gaurantee that I could move the seat (Corbeau A4) back far enough for my long legs.

I agree - R200 open diffs are fairly easy to source in 3.545:1, 3.7:1 and with the Phantom Grip ($290 if you can get one from Mike-scca) added to it makes it a LSD-type diff. It'll handle up to 500 hp, some say, but that all depends on how you use it. If you stay with an opened R200, don't go spinning one tire everywhere (although the smoke can be fun ) - it'll eat up the spider gears and/or spider gear pin.

For that level of HP, I'd think a stock 10.5 clutch would be fine. Add a kevlar/organinc clutch disc, and you gain a good amount of holding power.

1fastZ, your point about the convective cooling is interestng. Would this mean a TBI system like the Holley Projection (950 commander model) would actually have a benefit over the TPI version? I'm still on the fence as to whether an extra $1000 over the TBI version is justified for the TPI.

You know, the first time I read it I was wondering too. But I read it again and I think he was just telling you where to look for that kind of info/thread - as in it's here, just not in the Chevy forum. I'm not speaking for him, but he just called as he was leaving the office to ask if coming over tonight was still on, so I figure he might not see this post for a while and I wanted to try to say, things aren't always meant to sound the way they get typed.

Well, my garage sculpture is well rounded as I addressed all that over the last decade , but I see newcomers come in and ask about how to do a V8 swap and usually the first thing said is buy the JTR manual, and then don't forget to address the chassis (structure), suspension and brakes. I guess it's been a few months since the last time that scenario played out, but it happens often. Usually DavyZ, Lone, or some other old salt will step up and say that right off. Thanks guys!

I've heard that about VDO gauges, but the one in my 92 GSX always comes back to 0. I guess I might be a bit suspect about one that doesn't, but no going to zero doesn't necessarily mean that it doesn't read correctly above that. Somebody on the DSM.org mail list tested a few that didn't zero, as I remember, and they were fine above their "sticking point".

Tomahawk, In reading many car magazines, etc., over the last 25 years, I've come across beautifully sculpted car bodies being referred to as feminine - and it was always meant in a complimentary way. The smooth, esthetic lines of many cars like the GTO 250, 240Z, etc. are akin to the beautiful curves of a fine human female specimen, as I read the metaphors.

Well, if you look at the 240Z bumpers, they're simply cosmetic pieces also! I don't like the look of ANY rear bumper on the Z, but I don't want to be driving around without one for two reasons: 1) No need to give the police another reason to write me up. 2) I wanted SOME kind of protection from even a slight bump in the parking lot, etc. So I took a 240Z rear bumper center section, added short, tapered ends, cut 3/4" out of the for/aft "depth" and bolted it up close to the rear panel. It's painted body color, so it blends in a bit. Behind it is a 1" (ID) piece of black sewer pipe that's welded to beefy replacement brackets that mimic the OE pieces. So now more shortened, shrunk, painted OE bumper is just what it always should have been - a bumper COVER.

I guess if you were running the T56, I'd say keep the 4.11's and for get about 1st gear But I agree the 3.545 might be a better match for the low first gear that auto trans has and the overdrive.

Great story! What kind of rwhp and 1/4 ET/mph is that beast running?

Where does the gas smell come from on the Holley? I believe the answer (if the bowl and metering block gaskets aren't leaking, and the float levels are correct and the power valve isn't leaking) is that the gas smell comes out of the bowl vent, at the for and aft of the main body. I was considering running some fuel hose from the vents, out of the bottom of the air cleaner, and into my charcoal canister. That brings up a question. With a 3310-2 Holley, with only a ported, PCV and baseplate vacuum tap, where should I run the purge line to my charcoal canister? Would the ported vacuum tap be a good choice? It seems that the charcoal canister is a pretty big leak and hooking it to even the ported vacuum source would cause low engine vacuum. Maybe put a restriction in the line? I have the stock 240Z vent line from the evap tank and teh return line to the tank run into the charcoal canister now.

Yep, good point. Alot seems to depend on what people use for rotor hats as well as the rotor. My AZ Z car (old) wilwood kit has AL hats/hub adapters and the parts are quite light. But a Z disc and drum are light too!

Jay, I had to go get another keyboard to type this, since the drool in my other one from looking at the pics of your SWEET GTO 250 bodied Z were SO BEAUTIFUL!

I'm going to have the last word on this one. What Lockjaw and others that read this post need to realize is that my reasons for my statements to javv go far beyond what's contained in this post. In another post that has been deleted, he started screaming about how everybody was acting badly by not responding to his requests for help on a Q45 swap. He wasn't even clear in is posts leading up to that one whether it was a Q45 rear end (R230) swap or an engine swap. No one responded to his requests for a day or so and he started the now-deleted thread screaming about how everybody was behaving badly for not posting an answer - no one who had been reading knew how to help! There was also some offline email from me telling him he had stepped over the line with his behavior. Then he said he'd stand his ground on HIS behavior. So at that point (and now) he was on my very short (as always) bad guy list. So when I see him breaking another HybridZ rule (even slightly) about "all Nissan" I responded as you see earlier in this post. I am not apologizing for that. I was upholding the rules of this site and I will continue to do so. My other post (HybridZ is like a party) was a response to all his posts and a call to everyone to remember why we are here - first and formost as a haven for those of us that don't like purists beating their chests to us about how we need to put Nissan products only in our cars. This BS has been on the Internet and otherwise for 20+ years in my experience and Owen and Dan started the old V8 swappers forum and this one (respectively) out of a need for us to have a place to discuss V8 Z's. HybridZ has obviously grown since then nad expanded. But our charter is basically the same. The L6 board remains, as many including myself see putting a 280ZX Turbo engine in a 240Z, etc. has a hybrid and one that has great potential! Now you have the whole story. Next time, I'll just delete the purist words and be done with it.

Congrats on the spotlight, Stony - well deserved!

Nice looking work! Does the pushlock hose come in different sleeve colors than that blue?

Not sure what you mean about reasonable, but the choices are many. Easy: 280ZXT with some mods is very quick A bit harder: Gen I or II Small block Chevy V8 or V6 (4.3L) A bit harder still: Small block Ford or Mopar A bit harder still: Buick GN Turbo V6 Others: Lexus V8, Infiniti V8, you name it! It's such a big tradeoff of weight, power potential, power versus engine mods/$$$, complexity, parts $, custom parts $. What's your level of pain on that stuff?

Dude, just to let you know, the "check is in the mail" as of Noon today (the 22nd).

Doesn't SCCA have a 0.120" min wall thickness for the main hoop (at least)?

They're here, they just don't have their names next to the forums on the site.

Actually, the whole thread and one that was deleted this morning.

Lockjaw, if you want to discuss this or my behavior further, email me. This is doing no one any good here.