pparaska

This is the way I'd do it. Heck, you can probably find a used Lakewood 15000 - I did. I've seen that adapter in pictures (the BW one and the Sallee one), and it's dirt simple. I'd say go for it, and get a few extras from people here to lower your price! I wonder if he's the machinist that came up with the one that the Sallee aftermarket trans comes with!

Great stuff Grump! Wish I'd read some of that a few months ago!

That's the way I did it. It's pretty dangerous. I also used my engine hoist on one end, but that makes it rock side to side some. Be careful, and put stuff (tires, tree trunk pieces, etc.) under it as you're doing it so if it falls, it won't go all the way to the cement floor. Of course, stay out of the way and have someone there to help if you get in trouble.

Joe, the owner of the site emailed me since he found that I lived near him and wanted to get together. Well, then he showed me his site: http://www.240ztt.com/nissan2.html Woah, some really sweet RB powered cars! Another of our fine US soldiers in Japan, building some awesome RB powered cars! Check out Rick's 92 Skyline GTR! 700-800 estimated RWHP! A few other nice car's too.

If you must go with a different rotating assembly, realize that you may not end up with the cylinder-to-piston clearances you want, if you don't overbore again. I'd spend a few extra bucks and go with a reputable place like Beck Racing Engines . I guess I've heard enough bad about others that advertise in HotRod, etc. that I'd stay away.

I'm not sure which is more laughable - the 240Z headlight wiring system, or the front differential mount and "arrester strap"/afterthought ! Great fix!

The one thing I haven't planned on yet in my Z is the audio system. It has to be budget minded - I'd not mind giving up some sound quality in speakers to bring the price down. I don't really know what this will cost, and if I have to put it off to save up, that's no biggie either. I don't need a great system. Mediocre is fine - the exhaust is loud enough anyway! What (I think) I want: - AM/FM with MP3/CD player (AM optional) - Two rear-ish speakers: -Two 6x9's in the rear panel area, -or maybe something smaller on top of the strut towers? (I don't like alot of bass, so subwoofers are not needed nor wanted.) - Possibly a tweeter or mid/tweeter on the A-pillars or down on the dash in the A-pillar area. I think the MP3 option may make this really expensive. My last 240Z system is 20 years old - a late 70's Sanyo AM/FM/cassette unit with two Jensen Coax-II 6x9's in home-made boxes and that sounded pretty good (except the tape part) to me. Obviously, my knowledge and tastes in this area are 20 years old, so the cheapest stuff will probably be fine for me. Call this system to be designed a "low-tech" solution.

Lone did this swap. I looked at the seats and it looked like it was dirt simple. I think one of the dimensions (bolt to bolt across seat) was the same as the Z.

I hate to say it but one of the things I think going against the simple carbed old-school SBC into a Z is that it's been done so often. The LS1 is a great motor. Once you get the thing running there's a bunch of power to be found. I'd stick it out with the LS1 and check out jeromio's posts/page for details of how to mount it, etc. Lone Star Z did it also, in a month.

Dominic, I hope my post wasn't taken as an order - I might be interested in a CF hood at some point, but it's not in the budget/plans right now. I guess my comment on vents comes from the fact that the Z gets so hot under the hood and this is never good for performance. A method to get the hot air (from the radiator, engine block/heads/intake/headers) out of the compartment is difficult and letting it come out vents in the hood make practical sense (except for dirt/water falling through them).

Lockjaw, thanks for that explanation. But it brings a question to my beginner-turbo mind (I just drive my Eclipse GSX, not much else): Since a smaller turbine housing to wheel size ratio gives better low rpm spoolup response, but the top end suffers (probably due to not being able to move enough flow through it), wouldn't two smaller turbos give you the best of both worlds if properly sized (great low end and top end)? I'm talking about parallel, not sequential setups. And probably with a balance tube between the exhaust feeds too.

Mike, this is in no way a knock on your parts (I want a set - as soon as my checkbook recovers!), but the rear one above from Japan looks on-the-car adjustable, as does the T/C rod. Hard to tell though. Those things are beautiful!

Either stock or cowl - WITH louver vents on the sides.

ROFL! Good one, Mark! Yes, I think some time on the buffing wheel and then with a "chrome" powdercoat, and Mike's (ZF Racings) parts would be plenty eye catching from a show standpoint, and of course, more functional!

I don't have anything on my site about my blower fan "upgrade", but it's a 84 fullsize LTD fan, and it makes a bunch of racket and is probably TOO MUCH air. Here's a thread with as much documentation I've ever done on it. http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000198 (The search button is very fruitful guys ).

Yeah, that's pretty slick - adding the subframe connectors NEXT to the stock "frame rails". I might add some additional bracing to the existing engine frame rails to help stiffen things a bit. The firewall area needs all the help it can get. Take a look at the top right photo on this page: http://www.famousexhaust.com/zcar_kitmag_full33.jpg You can see the "rear strut tower brace" in place. I looks like the top left picture on that page shows some tubing tieing the subframe connectors to this brace. That ought to do something for stiffness. BTW, did you see these three http://www.famousexhaust.com/zcar-peir02.jpg Oooh, I wish the photo were larger

I like the idea of using the puller AND banging on the other end with some kind of "banging" plate, etc. Just make sure you slather that hole and pin with anti-seize before re-installing it!

This would be cool, but when designing the mounting points, take into account that you want to have something other than bolt shear as the method for keeping the TC brackets in place. Also, I'm pretty sure this tube will need to be bent. A bent tube in compression ALWAYS flexes/bends. So make it as beefy as you can to have it do any good.

Radiator placement: One thing to consider is that you want to seal the radiator core to the radiator support to make sure that ALL the air through the big rectangular hole in the radiator support goes into the radiator core. If you mount the radiator back away from the support, you need to build a duct from the radiator support to the radiator, or much of the cooling air being forced into the grill area at speed will bypass the radiator. Even if you put the radiator up against the radiator support, you need to seal it.

That ought to do it! Nice mod!

I kind of saw the undercurrent in a recent GTO250 thread - I think it's a good idea! You have my vote! With a number of body kits out for the Z, I think it warrants a forum of it's own. Sure, it's not a "performance" modification, per se, but I think a forum of it's own makes sense.

Larry, count me in too! Acad, IGES, Cadkey, pro-E, I'll just convert them!

Grumpy, funny you should mention that. 20 years ago a friends brother had th ebody and paint done on his 57 (BRIGHT ORANGE) and had a hot 283 in the car with a Muncie. He was out on the highway running it hard and the flywheel let go (stock piece, I'd bet) and it took out the windshield, cowl, firewall, crushed the frame on each side, cut the headers as if they were paper, and left a nice hole in the pavement. Yep. Stock bellhousing. I have the Lakewood in my Z and it was hardly a problem fitting it. I did cut the flange off of about 6" of the bottom portion, parallel with the ground, for ground clearance (I know that killed the SFI rating, but it's still alot safer than an AL bellhousing) and had to just slightly bump the tunnel in one area on the passenger side to make some clearance.

WTG Dan! Congrats!

I didn't know that - but the stock DSM "boost gage", as you probably know, is a display of a calculation the ECU makes based on MAF readings, etc. Not very accurate at all once you start changing stuff! I just put a mechanical VDO gage in to find out what the boost REALLY was.