pparaska

Search the site. I have a few posts on how inaccurate the Autometer electric temp gages can be (20 degrees off). I'd just go mechanical on oil pressure and oil/water temp.

the 3310 is the 750 vac secondary carb. Not ecomony at all.

I've always downgeared. It comes with practice, and if you bring the rpms up before letting out the clutch after shifting down, it won't jerk. Get the rpms perfect and its very smooth. But you are using the synchros more if you downgear. That's more wear. I've heard experts say that brakes are cheaper than tranny rebuilds. The other issue is that some jurisdictions have laws against coasting in neutral. I doubt it's ever enforced, just FYI. It has to do with having less control of the car.

I have a different point of view. If you use 7/16" studs, good rocker arms (like Comp Cams Pro Magnums) and maybe a stud girdle, solid lifter cams will not need valve adjustment all that often. They can go 5000 miles (depending on use) for a street car, maybe more, between adjustments. Solid flat tappet cams also give broader torque curves over hyd. flat tappet cams. If you use the right valvetrain parts, don't mind the clatter and the occasional adjustment, I'd say go for it.

Search this site for it. We've been here before. The result seemed to be that a NACA duct was not good at air extraction, just induction from a surface.

That's some Great advice: 327-350 cam: Nice lopey idle, somewhat low vacuum, not a lot of lift (.447 w/ 1.5:1 rockers), alot of seat timing (I've seen it advertised to as much as 306 deg) and not alot of 0.050" timing (222 deg). That's a REALLY slow ramp. You give up a bunch of low speed torque, but the lift limits performance on the top. I agree with going with something like the xe274 or the xs274. I had that cam in a 10:1 327 years ago (20 years ago) and it was a DOG until 3000+ rpm but rocked decent after that. Don't forget the Canfield heads (seach here, Grumpyvette always posts a link). Great value for what's included.

check out the FAQ : http://240z.jeromio.com/faqdraft/ Note that the first example is my car. The link to my site is broken. It should be: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/wheelstires.htm The details for getting this to fit are there. 255/45-17 on a 17x9" rim, no flares, rolled fender lip, 8" coilovers.

I'm guessing that's a late model F-body? Quick car. I don't condone the high speeds in traffic like that though.

Dan, I like the idea of a bent peice too. But the stiffener across the top is a good idea to keep. It could be done on a cross piece too, and put at the back of the bracket more easily. But there's really no room to move away from the parking brake mechanism - it's right above the mount. If you lower the top of the bracket, it would lower the front of the diff too far - I think the pinion center line is about 1 degree nose-up on my install. Much lower and I'd be afraid that the front seal would have too much gear oil against it if the gear oil was high enough in the rear to do it's job. Aaron, I like that idea. Theres a bit of room on the top of the diff to put a countersunk bolt head up through the mount. But another bolt/nut up above the mount bracket where it'd have to be is yet another thing to interfere with the parking brake mechanism. This may be moot, as I thing the GM mount is interlocking anyway. Anyone know? It's the same one that JTR recommends for use as a tranny mount.

You know, that's one of the reasons I never felt like really modding and flogging my Eclipse - the drivelines are NOT made for much more than what it came with power wise, and the parts are quite expensive (trans, diffs, drive and halfshafts).

I thought it might be you who also did the DeGroot mount. The ebrake issue is trivial and easily fixed with a spring. I just wanted to point it out as something you needed to be aware of if you did this mod.

Man, those things are not cheap! If somebody has a torn up old one, that'd be cool. No, I don't think so. Good point. Initially, I was concerned about the stud/nut. But in retrospect, the e-brake u-shaped cable guide is in it's rearward most position (on my car at least - I have non-OE e-brake calipers on my car though) in the released position, and only moves forward with the e-brake applied. So there's not really much danger of the mount stud/nut interfereing with the cable guide. So yes, there's room on the driver's side (US driver that is) of the stud to put that extra limiting bolt through the mount. I wouldn't tighten it though, as you'd be effectively shorting out the damping the mount provides.

Wow, Myron, things sound pretty stressful. When your kids come up ill, it's always stressful! You and your family are in my prayers. Things will turn around! It does seem like open heart surgery is like an oil change these days - practice sure has made it alot better! Having a hobby sure does help you get through these things. So does having a big extended family like HybridZ!

Lone, Mike, we're pulling for you. Any time you need to talk, just call. I hope they figure out what's up with Donna's pain soon and it's easily fixed! Best Regards, Pete

Len, I bet you could chamfer the edges and seam weld the joint together all the way around and it'd be alot stronger. The 280Z R200 member is much stronger than the 240 one.

I did it by bolting the suspension sub-assemblies back onto the car. Pretty easy actually, if you still have them. Other than that, how about using some handcart/dollies affixed to the bottom?

Beautiful work!

I have the Camaro rad tha JTR recommends. Got it almost new with custom mounts very cheap, but if I were starting from scratch, I'd get a Griffin, etc. and make sure I rubber mounted it. I agree - you should close off any way for the air to circulate around the radiator, such as closing the edge/sides of the radiator to the core support. I'm useing 4 inch wide aluminum tape (it's actually damping tape - got it from work) to seal off the radiator core to the hole in the core support. If you're running A/C, you should also make sure that all air must pass through the condensor core to the radiator core, and not around the condensor anywhere. Racer tape, closed cell foam, etc. can be used to good effect.

Danno, you are correct, the front of the diff is only attached vertically by the stud in the GM tranny mount (as well as the bolts through the GM tranny mount to the diff). The mustache bar attachment has a large role in holding the front of the diff. (For you Mech Eng types, the mustache bar attachement provides for some level of fixity or clamped support, so that the differential is somewhat cantilevered by the mustache bar mounting. The urethane mustache bar bushings enhance the stiffness (and strength) of this cantilever effect, causing higher fixity.) With the front mount out of the car, the front of the diff was suspended only a half inch to an inch below it's current position with the front mount in there. I agree the spinning driveshaft will add some more loads to the front of the diff (dead weight, imbalance loads, lateral loads due to non-zero u-joint angles during torque transfer). But the major load is the upward vertical load that is the reaction to acceleration torques that cause an "axle windup" type of situation. I don't think the vertical downward loads mentioned above are anything to be concerned about as far as pulling the GM tranny mount apart in tension. There might be some merit in providing som sort of additional lateral support, as this is tending to shear the GM tranny mount sideways. The front of the diff moves left and right even if I just slowly turn the tires with the car off the ground. Again, I doubt that's needed either. Either way, if the GM tranny mount fails, the diff is not going anywhere, unless the mustache bar breaks. I still have the OE front crossmember that the OE front diff mount bolts to in there. Ron actually cut the ends off of his and left the center of this crossmember out to enable better exhaust system fitment. I'm just going to leave mine alone as I already made accomodations for duals in my front crossmember.

Yes, watch out for the Eclipse/Talon, especially the 1st gen. They can be upgraded fairly easily/cheaply to run 12s, 11s. There are a bunch in the 10s, some in the 9s and some race-only ones in the 8s. I'm talking 1/4 mile here, not 1/8. Having a stout engine design and a decent setup from the factory, not to mention AWD, means it doesn't take rocket science or a huge billfold to get in the 12s, etc. I still prefer lots of cubes though! My 92 Eclipse GSX is simply my daily driver. Very few mods, as I was saving the money to dump in the Z!

Cool - it's good to know that they're available somewhere other than Nissan, that gets an arm and a leg for them, I'm sure.

Al, the fumes are traveling backwards from the exhaust pipe tip into the window. This is common for a old Z - the aerodynamics are pretty hosed up. Some people put long exhaust tips on the car to help with this, but I think it looks silly sticking out 6" past the bumper. I hear that a rear spoiler actually helps. Oh, I always found that putting BOTH windows down helped. It seemed that if the pass window was closed but my driver's window was down, the fumes were worse than with both down.

Yep, I have a Tremec TR-3550 (GM form factor from darkhorse performance) using the McLeod hyd TO bearing, and a Girling remote reservior 3/4" MC. I'm using a 91 1LE Camaro 10.5" diaphram clutch. To me, I'd like the pedal a bit less stiff, but I'm not willing to give up the medium throw of the pedal and go to a longer pedal throw if I went with a smaller MC diameter. 3/4" MC is a good way to go.

Yes, the mechanical 5" Autometer speedo will connect to the JTR or Datsun cable. Since I'm using a Tremec 5spd, I removed the GM speedo adapter it came with from darkhorse performance, and I'm using a 1967-68 Mustang auto trans speedo cable. It's a little long, but works fine. Just a tip for anyone using a Ford type tranny.

Yeah, that link works one hour, not the next for me. Try this: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~rontyler/rontyler.html