pparaska

Jason, Sorry you got offended. But seriously, let's try to keep some levity around here. This is twice in one week people have felt offended over someone else's opinion or observation. Everybody: If you get offended, try contacting the admins/moderators first and/or write the posters that offended you. It will keep the flames down. My point of view: I'm kind of with Denny. I don't watch much of any racing on TV (heck much of anything in general!), nor go to races, except when my neighbors go to the local drag strip and race their cars (his and hers racing - they each have a drag car). But they race brackets and that actually bores me a bit. I like the test and tune nights alot better! The politics of these organizations (NASCAR, CART, F1, etc.) baffles me. They seem to take all the fun out of the sport. And I think restrictor plate racing and having exact formulas for the cars makes it boring from a technical point of view. I like the days when people like Smokey Yunick, etc. were doing all the wild stuff that the organizers then had to write rules around. Now the advances are so slow in coming it gets boring and all the cars seem so much like carbon copies, in many of the racing venues (NASCAR, CART, etc.) Instead of watching someone else race, I'd rather be doing something myself. But I do enjoy watching WCRally, Sedan Road Racing, F1, a little bit of Nascar. But I get bored quickly with it all, since I'm not behind the wheel! The one thing I do like about watching races is the in-car camera stuff. I personally would love to watch an entire race with only in car camera, preferably in one car (hope it finishes the race!) Just my point of view...

Looking back at that drawing, I can't even figure out what dimension is left off. I think there's enough info there to be able to figure out how to make the thing. Several people have used this design, and I've never heard back that any dimensions were wrong. I'd love to hear feedback if someone finds something out of whack. I think the best thing to do is cut the floor section/rail out and make a template out of plywood using those dimensions to test fit.

The crappy double flaring tool that everyone sells (Eastwood, Jegs, Summit, etc.) in the red plastic box is very unreliable for getting an on center flare. There are better tools for this that hold the mandrel centered in the tubing, but they are generally $150+ I just bought custom length lines that were already flared from classic tubes and was done with it!

Remember that some of the retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters like the ones Comp Cams makes for the SBC are very heavy and that's why there's a rev kit. Some of the solid rollers are much lighter.

I found some info on those pistons here: http://www.herbertperformance.com/Catalog/Pistons/Speed-Pro_Pistons/speed-pro_pistons.html 12.5cc dish I put your info into the Compression ratio calculator at http://www.smokemup.com/utilities/calc/compression_ratio.cfm and came up with the following: code: Bore - 4.155 inches Stroke - 3.75 inches Cyl head volume - 64 cc Deck height - 0.010 inches Head gasket bore - 4.2 inches Head gasket thickness - .039 inches Piston dish volume - 12.5 cc Compression Ratio is: 10.518 : 1 Note that I assumed a deck height of .010" (typical) and used a .039" thick gasket, with a 4.200" bore (typical for a 400 head gasket like the Felpro 1014).

If the thread you're looking for is about Painless wiring, look in Misc Tech If the thread you're looking for was about Honda Wheel spacers, look in Wheels, Brakes,...

All a knock sensor is is an accelerometer. The problem is that you get a picture of all the vibrations that are going on and you need to filter the output to see what "knock" you are getting. Most if not all ECU's do this internally, and then they use the info only in a gradual sense, in that they look at knock over time and then retard ignition and/or pull boost (with a waste gate solenoid) as well. I just described the Mitsu/Talon system, but others are similar. The issue is that you need to do a bunch of signal processing of the knock sensor, not just look at the output of the accelerometer ("knock sensor").

Andrew, thanks for the heads up. Hopefully my fully enclosed flywheel with the blowproof bellhousing will take care of things. Of course if the motor mounts broke ...

Mike was that the Burtonsville Performance Machine or the one down near you?

...and if you want nutso speed accuracy (~.1 mph), get a differential GPS setup.

The regulator that comes with the Holley blue pump is not a bypass style regulator. If you hook one side of the regulator to the stock return line you are creating a big leak back to the tank and you may never get the pressure you need consistently. If you want to use the return line, you have to by a carburated bypass style regulator that has a dedicated return port. They are about $75 for the cheapest one I've seen advertised.

Looks good! I have my pressure regulator in the same place and a cheap hard line on the carb. The length of hose is pretty short and I like the way your setup has flex lines that are shorter - looks alot better too. Anybody know where to get o-ring type attachments for the fuel bowl inlets?

I just installed a diff mount that goes ABOVE the front of the diff and does away with the OE diff mount. The guy who made it for me had me swear I wouldn't reveal his name. But it's simple to make. It's three lengths of 3"x1/4" bar stock (steel) that form sort of a squared off U inverted and bolted into the tunnel using the bolts that originally hold the diff strap. The ends of the U have short (~3/4"x3.5"x1/4") steel welded to the ends to make up the distance between the bolt holes, as 3" is not enough). I have pics I will post. The top horizontal length of 3x1/4" steel is just below the parking brake U that holds the cable. A GM tranny mount is attached to this horizontal piece, with the stud of the mount going through a hole in the horizontal steel piece of the U. Two 3/8" bolts come up through the diff mount lugs on the diff and into the two holes on the GM tranny mount. A bonus is that the front of the diff is lowered and now I have 1 degree vertical u-joint angles! Torquing the pinion flange back onto the diff really showed me what's happening graphically. I was only putting 120 ft-lbs on the pinion nut and it was compressing the rubber mount (the GM tranny mount, which is soft) more than 3/8". But that mount is being COMPRESSED and it appeared to stop compressing after about 100 ft lbs. But it's not in tension being torn in two like the clueless Datsun designers did with the OE diff mount. BTW, you can just cut the center section of the diff crossmember out and leave the parts that hold the front control arm bushings to the unibody if you do this diff mount design. I will get some pics up of this over the weekend. Remind me if I forget!

Eeew. Sorry about that Mike. They are popular, and this is the WORST time of year to be getting work done as all the racers are trying to get last minute engines put together. My advice is anybody that's any good will be busy so just get in line. There's a place called House of Balance in Elkridge MD. That's right, that's what they do. Balance engines, etc. I bet they're busy to.

Thanks Davy. I have Castrol 30W in the motor for cam break in. I will change it to 10W30 and what ever 10W30 10w40 mix I need to get the idle oil pressure as Grumpy suggests. Don't worry, I'll also clean out the System One deep oil filter at the same time.

Sorry, it's just the consummate engineer in me, but I'm always going down into the details. I see what you mean about the bushing drag adding to the overall wheel rate. I put my springs in and I get around 1.9, 2.2 Hz. Uhoh... I guess I'll be jiggling around a bit until I get some sense into my head and get lighter springs. Great effort on the springs pages and spreadsheet!

That's the most thorough CR calculator I've seen. With all the data they are asking for, they appeart to be calculating the volume around the piston top above the top ring and using it in the analysis. Very correct, very nice.

Yup, that's the Xtreme mechanical flat tappet line. I have the one just below that, CS XS274S-10 in my 327 (haven't started it yet). Seems it should have about the same dynamic compression as I have with 9.7:1 static if you have anything like 10:1 static compression. Guys, is it O.K. to break the cam in with straight 30 wt oil? Not sure where I heard that, but it was advised to me to use that for cam break-in. I WILL be going to Mobil 1 in 100 miles.

Brian, thanks that's an excellent write-up and the spreadsheet is cool! BTW, from looking at the calcs in the spreadsheet, it looks like you assumed the spring rate is the same as the wheel rate. Did I get that correct?

That is such a good feeling when you crank up a hopped V8 and it all works! That sounds like one screamer of a car! BTW, is the cam one of the Xtreme mechanical flat tappet ones?

Go to http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/WhatsNew/WhatsNew.html and scroll down about half way.

Yes, above the control arm is OE, AFAIK. As far as a strength or safety aspect, I doubt it matters much. The control arm itself is at a slightly different angle this way, but as far as the roll center and camber change aspects are concerned, the suspension won't know any different - it's the line between the ball joint center and the inner pivot that matters. The only effect I can see is that in a corner the anti-sway bar is pushing down on the arm on the outside arm. This setup might be better since the arm would bear down on the ball joint body instead of on the bolts heads if the ball joint was installed above the arm. BTW, is that your car/site? Whoever it is thanks for the link and the comps! Nice site! Never thought of that before! BTW2, the link is broken to my site. It's at http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska

Umm yeah, 617 hp (.257*port flow*8cyl) for the 300cfm runners, versus 483hp for the 235cfm runners is ALOT more capability.

Pretty sure that the only 280Z's with the R180 were behind automatic trannies. If it's a hexoganal (not rectangular) cover, you're good to go.

Yeah, I know overall it's about like a hi-rise intake and carb, but it's high towards the front of the motor where hood clearance might be a problem, especially once you put an elbow/hose on the TB. It might fit at that. I wonder how much power you could push through that setup with upgraded cam, heads, etc. The Stealth Ram grumpy just got might be the ticket for the same bucks.