pparaska

I have one of these too. I plan on bolting a length of aluminum angle underneath the top middle horizontal section to keep it from drooping at speed. Any paint shop knows what flex additive is and can get you some to mix into the paint.

Thanks Len and johnc - that's exactly what we were looking for. Yes, I was drooling over the article in R&T with the GT40. $75K+ ain't all that bad - if you got it! (Wish I did)

Wow, I never remember saying to use heim joints, but I forget alot of things . Mike Kelly says that his heim jointed Dr. Z control arms never made any more noise than stock though. Glad you decided to just use a piece of angle iron. To me this is the best way to get those cut strut tubes aligned. Once you have it tacked in about 4 good places evenly around the tubes, it's not going to move and you can just take the angle away and alternate opposite sides of the tube for the final welding. MAKE SURE YOU TEST THE WELDING THAT IT'S WATER TIGHT. I found out the hard way on one of my tubes and had to go back and fix a pin hole leak at the end of one the weld beads. 15/16" may be fine. No way to tell without installing everything and testing the bumpsteer. Don't worry about it until you measure the bumpsteer - it may be just fine. You can always convert the outer tie rod ends to heim joints and this will allow you to fine tune the bumpsteer to make up for taking the inner CA pivot up the extra small amount you did. I was wondering why you were having to dimple the underside of the crossmember. I guess that's why. BTW, the metal on the control arm to the inside half of the bushing tube is unstressed and along for the ride, so trimming it in the fashion that the JTR manual shows is not a problem.

Sorry, had to use that one ONCE. Just kidding. No one's upset, I just like to keep things a bit organized. Looks like you got some responses there too!

Not sure what you mean. The BRE one is taller and has more sqaured corners.

I prefer the old Japanese one-piece spoiler as I think it fits the curves of the car better than the BRE one: Actually it looks better from the forward view. Classic Datsun ( http://www.classicdatsun.com/ ) sells this.

Cool James Can't wait to hear how the tuning sessions turn out!

Z-sleeper, I did exactly what thill did (above). That kept power to everything and just took the Ampmeter out of the picture.

Agreed Terry. It also helps to put the tip of your finger between the yoke that's welded to the drive/halfshaft and the yoke on the same u-joint that bolts to the diff, companion flange or the slip yoke at the trans. That way you can feel very small movements between the two parts to diagnose a bad u-joint. Look for rusty dust around the seal of the cups too.

I bought the 2-2-899 recently ($41 ouch) It's NOT the right part. It uses the tiny datsun 1210 series U-joint, not a 1310 series GM joint. I never did take that thing back. I think one that might be close is the 2-2-459. Michael Ol bought the yoke from JTR and it sure did look like the part number on it was 2-2-459, although it was hard to tell. On the Spicer web site for flange yokes: http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~3~ Select Series 1310 at the top and press select. You'll see that it lists a 2.375 Pilot. But the one on Michaels part was 2.25. Anyway, that part number 2-2-899 is NOT what you want.

The US Z is the same, but then I think all power to the fuse box and accessories would be shot.

Dan, I think you're on the right track. The rpm available is a function of how much flow you need at a certain rpm, and a 287 would need 287/350 as much flow at the same rpm. I do think that you're going to need screw in studs, and maybe even a stud girdle, becuase the cam you're going to be running in a high rev'er like that is going to require some hefty springs.

Seems to me I moved a few posts from the Chevy forum yesterday to Misc, since they had nothing to do with swapping Chevy V8's into a Z. Call me anal retentive, but the Chevy V8 forum ends up being a catch-all place that has stuff that really belongs in other forums (Misc, drivetrain, brakes, chassis, carb, ignition, etc.) I typically just come in an move them and I guess I should leave a message that I did. Sorry. When we had the option to search all forums, you could search all forums at once for your post if it got moved. I'll try to leave a message in the forum I move things from in the future.

Mike - Congrats on the raise - I know the BS you put up with and you earn EVERY PENNY. One of my secrets is doing it slowly stretches out the cash outlay. Not a plan, just a reality for how my free time comes about. A pil of money over 11 years is a bunch of small piles . I wish I knew how to find deals like Mike and others. Part of my problem is being able to trust strangers on ebay when buying big ticket items. Z-Dreamer: I've heard bad and good about the Tremec 5spd's notchiness. It seems as time goes on I hear less bad. And yes, all the experts I talk to (Darkhorse Performance, Fortes, Hanlon, other Tremec builders) all say the same thing - GM Synchromesh and Pro-5.0 or Steeda shifter. I hear the B&M Ripper is nice, but makes a lot of buzzing noise. I also hear about a vague 2-3 shift, but the Steeda and Pro-5.0 are supposed to be good for fixing this.

Yes, I think several of these are in order:

Weird, but the common advice is to have the rod's at least checked for size and shape on the big end when replacing bolts - and usually just have them resized while bolts are being replaced.

Well, that's something! Thanks Len! Hmm, if the Z is 50" tall, the GT40 is like getting into a coffin. But what a way to go!

I've removed two Z windshields, and put one used one in with the old OE gasket. Lot's of trouble getting it to seal. BTW, the chrome (actually stainless steel) trim is MUCH easier to get in the gasket after the gasket is on the glass, but before it's put in the car. I had mine powdercoated semi-gloss black, along with the door and 1/4 window frames.

Bohnzii, if you ever see anyone getting hammered for a question they ask here, it will probably get taken care of by the moderators right away. If not email them and we will fix the problem PRONTO. That's the way things are done here at HybridZ! Another point to think about is that you may not want the stripes to actually be the same width at the front of the hood and the back. I believe it was on the old 2nd gen Camaro that they used a trick that you started out with the stripes a bit narrower at the front of the hood and it tapered up to full width at the windshield. This was to get away from the illusion that constant width stripes on that car (and probably any sloped nose car) look wider at the front than the rear. Maybe check one of the 2nd gen Camaro boards for resto tips on this.

I drilled out the spot welds that hold in the tray, found a bunch of surface rust, and perforation at the firewall! I simply patched it up (and didn't worry too much about hiding the weld seam either).

Thanks Tom! I guess that two 17748's at 378hp "loss free capacity" is just about perfect for my motor! I love the rumble of these mufflers - can't wait to hear it with my new cam!

Anybody have that info? From the rocker panel bottom horizontal surface? From the rear control arm rear clamp to the ground? From the center of the front crossmember From the center of the front diff cross member? Anything like that?

Michael, (My email and web site have changed, so I editted your post to fix that.) Have you measured the lengths of the strut tubes, left versus right? How about the isolators at the top of the spring/strut cartridge? Is the angle between the stub axle and the strut tube the same left to right side of the car? How about the strut tube to spindle angle?

Rear: Check out info for 17x9s (largest possible without flares in the rear of a 240-280Z) on my site: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/wheelstires.htm The upshot is, with 1/2" thick rotor hats on my AZ Z-car / Wilwood rear brakes, the backspacing is 149mm. But check my page for details. You have to roll the fender lip also. Front: 17x8.5s with 142mm backspace and 234/45-17 tires fits - you may need a 1/8" wheel spacer.

If handling effects are important, and it's a high capacity and/or heavy radiator, it can have considerable mass when filled. And mass times the square of the distance of the radiator to the CG of the car is the effect on the polar moment of inertia (PMOI). A higher PMOI tends to make the car resist changing yaw attitude (turn). It's not just the weight that matters for handling transients, it's the distance of the weight from the CG of the car SQUARED that makes a difference too.