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Everything posted by pparaska
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On this note, does anyone have an R200 pinion flange that works with this NEAPCO adpater they'd be willing to sell? Or a description of the years of car it came off of?
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Jeff, That's Mike kZ's 327 you're thinking of. If you're thinking that short stroke might bring some advantages, then maybe consider the 353 built with the 400 block and LJ327 crank. Same short stroke as the 327, but more cubes to boot: http://www.martelbros.com/afr/Articles/A3-P1.htm As far as books, I recommend Bill Jenkins book on racing the SBC, as well as Vizard's and Lingenfelter's book. I don't have the titles handy, but search amazon.com and they'll come up easily. Cheers, Pete
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Mike, as much as I prefer solids, the hydraulic would be fine if you're not going over 6000 rpm. The big issue with hydraulic roller lifters like those retro ones from Comp Cams (not sure about Isky's) is that they are very heavy. Not a problem usually for 6000 rpm and lower for "streetable" spring rates. I still like the clack of solids. The newer tight lash solids are a bit quieter, I believe. Cerberus, BLKMGK pointed out to me a while ago that engines with knock sensors like the LT1 don't like solids - the noise fakes out the knock sensor (possibly?) and tells the ECM you're pinging when you're not. 2 to 3000 miles between valve adjustments is probably a yearly deal for my seldom-to-be driven Z. Heck, my commute is 1.5 miles. Cam Theory: Am I all washed up here? 1. High lift is important for midrange torque (assuming the heads flow at the higher lifts) 2. To get "high" lift (.550"+) with "short" durations like 225-235@.050, you need to go to a roller on a SBC, due to the lifter diameter and base circle radius constraints. 3. Solids can have more area under the curve, since the lash is figured in from the outset and there's no delay in valve actuation (other than lash take-up). Please teach me.
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Thanks for that feedback. It seems there are 3 versions of Pro-jection: 1st: Analog, with pots for tuning (yuck) 2nd: Digital, 4Di computer 3rd: Digital, with Commander 950 computer. I'd probably only consider the last one. But the delta to go to an MPI system is "only" $1000. Maybe I'll just save a while longer for it?
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Ross, thanks for pointing out what I meant to say - headers are usually a good upgrade from exhaust manifolds (in the V8 world, this is generally true, unless the manifolds were designed as cast iron headers from the factory on special cars). But in the case of the L6, there's evidence to say that for all but a really high output L6, a good manifold is just as good.
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Mike, in theory I agree. However, there's a racer and engineer on the IZCC list that's done some engine dyno work comparing the 240Z, 260Z exhaust manifolds and various headers. His findings show VERY MINIMAL improvements over the manifolds. The 260Z manifold was marginally better. I wish I had references to cite, but if you go and ask on that list, his name is Keith. Then again, this is on a dyno. No telling if there might be some improvement on the tracks.
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quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: [QB... His needs probably match ours in that he wants a system that's VERY flexible. Start out with TBI, then move to port injection - doesn't want to have to use two ECUs to do this. Holley would require him to do that with their ECU - it can't run both TBI and TPI type systems. [/QB] Jim, are you sure about this? If you go to the Holley site and check out each system, the 950 Commander is listed for both the new TBI (Pro-jection) and the new MPFI systems.
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Tim, you just described my tool kit for fabbing things. Other than files, a dremel, vice grips, hammers!, and a vice and a bunch of tubing and steel plate scrap, that's exactly how I go about making brackets and stuff. Love to have a drill press, cut off saw, plasma torch, oxy-acet kit, TIG setup, band saw, mill, lathe... You get the idea . Money and room dictate that I don't have them! But I learned long ago what hand tools do for you. They give you a real sense of accomplishment when you're done. Articles on John Buttera did that for me.
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Engine Info: - 327 block and forged steel crank and rods w/ SPS rod bolts - TRW forged flat top pistons and file fit Speed Pro rings - 1964 "461" casting "double hump" or "Fuelie" heads. Bowl ported, intake matched, 3 angle valve job. Isky heavy duty valve springs, retainers. 2.02/1.60" valves - Comp Cams hardened pushrods and Pro Magnum 7/16" 1.5 ratio steel roller rockers, 7/16" screw in studs and guide plates. - This combination gives about 9.7:1 compression ratio. - Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 274/280 deg. adv. duration (236/240 deg @ 0.050") 0.501/0.510"lift, 110 deg LSA, Solid Lifter Cam - Holley "Contender" (pn 300-36) hi-rise dual plane intake manifold, port matched. Or Edelbrock Victor Jr. - Holley 750cfm vacuum secondary carb - blueprinted, accessoried. - Recurved HEI distributor with Crossfire Cap, HEI BruteThunder Coil, MSD Soft Touch Rev Limiter, MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Plug Wires, Autolite 303 plugs. Exhaust: - Hooker Block Hugger Headers with Stainless Steel/Ceramic coating (along with most of the entire system by Baxter Custom Engineering) - 2.5" duals with Dr. Gas X-pipe - 2 Dynomax Hemi Super Turbo mufflers in stock location (after spare tire well surgery) Transmission: Tremec TR-3550 5spd Blow proof bellhousing McLeod hydraulic T.O. bearing Girling 3/4" Master Cyl. 91 Camaro 1LE clutch PP McLeod dual friction disc 88 300ZX R200, LSD, 3.7:1 280ZX Turbo CV halfshafts Brake Upgrades Arizona Z Car Wilwood Racing Brakes Front and Rear Coilovers, Tokico Illumina's, 7/8" front bar, no rear bar
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I'm with you Kim. I see no need to go past 1/4 turn EVER. It's wasted energy and brings on the possibility of pump up. All that's needed is enough preload to make sure there is always at least just a little. 1/4 turn is what I've always used. Top end was noticably stronger than with 1/2 or 3/4 turn. Of course, now I just use solid lifters - I like a bit of controlled clatter .
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If you have Vizard's book on How to Modify Small Block Chevy Heads (or something close to that) you will be well on your way to understanding how to do it.
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The front hubs can be used. Only the diff can bolt in. The rest of it is not a bolt in. I don't think the shafts would work, without modification. Welcome to HybridZ!
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Cerberus, How about $35 for one? That would be for one with Datsun joints (original) in good shape, and not torn boot, etc. That's probably alot cheaper than Zbarn and shipping is cheap if you pick it up! If interested let me know.
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putting 96 Lt-1 & T-56 in a 78 280z w/72 240z serial #'s
pparaska replied to Len's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Guys, you are on a public board talking about planning to break the law. I think if you want to discuss this, you should not be doing it here, but through private email. This site and the people that run it cannot condone this. I will tell you that it's not only the dash and door jamb you need to worry about. Above the brake booster on the firewall, you will find the VIN stamped into the metal. I'd hate to see you guys try this, and some smart person check that area and find out what's happened. I'm locking this thread. -
James, JTR (Jags That Run) got started (as well as John's Cars, and others I'm sure) because that motor and the older V12 Jag is expensive to rebuild. It's a heavy piece too. Nice motor. Guess what JTR and others came up with as an economical alternative to rebuilding that motor? Swapping in a Small Block Chevy!
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Jason, You need to wrap it over the top of the diff nose, and all the way below the crossmember. This limits (to some extent) the amount that the diff nose is able to lift when you accelerate.
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You could start out with a $1400 mild crate 350 But add another $1000 to that to get it accessorized with intake, carb, harmonic damper, distributor, flywheel, starter, alternator, water pump, pulleys, brackets, headers. etc., etc., maybe $1500 or more if you get at all fancy. I think a fully dressed engine starts at around $3500. Then you need a trans - a TH350 auto (not advised - you need overdrive) is like $400 rebuilt. A 700R4 is like $700-$1000. T5 who knows.
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Ok, a bit of a new twist on this old TBI vs TPI thread. To recap, I was asking if the Holley Projection 4DI would be a decent way to get something better than a carb, but not break the bank, while getting datalogging and ignition control. Well, Now Holley has revamped the Projection by using the Commander 950 computer and they've revamped the TB with new injectors and a progressive secondary throttle linkage. The one rated for 350-500 hp is described Here. So for a bit less than $1400 new, the complete bolt in system is looking interesting. I know I can piece together a port system and it would be "better" but is the extra gains with dry manifold and equal fuel delivery to each port really worth it for daily driving? It seems the upgrade from this system to TPI is $1000 more with the Holley 950 MPI system. Can another TPI system that can handle 450+ hp be put together for less than $2500 all parts included? This TBI system is looking enticing. $1400 I might be able to swing. $2400 is beyond reality for me. My current setup is a 750 vac sec either on a Holley 300-36 hirise dual plane or a Vic Jr. I would put this TBI system on the Vic Jr.
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(It may have seemed like a funny thing to do, but, people, please refrain from impersonating bad elements.) Pretty funny . But that guy in the picture probably wouldn't be interested in GTO's, Z's, etc. Unless he could find a way to do terrorism with it . BTW, my browser didn't know what to do with those. I saved them to disk and opened with an image viewer. (Oh. There gone now.) Let's keep it civil people. Any reaction to any perceived shenanigans will be deleted. Go back and read the mission statement before acting rash. [ October 20, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] [ October 20, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]
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Yes, the short pump was on all the Small Blocks until around 69. The vette had it at least in 70, probably later, like Thurem said, to make it fit. Yes, the long pump a tiny bit heavier, and what, maybe 1.5" longer? I wouldn't worry about it for weight,CG reasons . I went with a long pump to be able to put the CSI130 alternator in front of the block/heads on a custom mount. It also helped me fit a big Sanden 508 AC compressor in front of the header (but just barely). Look around at the brackets and pulleys available and see if things like availability and where you will mount the ALT and/or AC if you use one.
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I have a few if you need one. Can't gaurantee the joints though. They're all old shafts and joints.
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The SERIOUS weight difference has got to be a factor in autocross as well.
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Let me know about Willy's (where it is). Oh, thought of you last night as I was cruising down Randolph road going west from 29 to NH ave. Sounds like it's time to get in on Ross's CV adapter deal and go to CVs!
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Hammer, Glad you're still here. A mild V8 in a Z is faster than most cars you can buy. A wild V8Z is faster than many modded cars. There's always something faster! I'd not spend much money on an engine that did not come from a vendor with a warranty. If I bought from a private individual, it'd have to be DIRT cheap, and then I'd be sweating. Call me paranoid, but crate engines from vendors are pretty inexpensive.
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GTO 250 side shot 7M-GTE in the GTO 250 bodied 240Z In a ZOOM mag. Anybody know which one?