pparaska

I had to copy the "properties" of the link you hade in that post and use only the stuff up to "&done..." Here's the link - you have to copy and paste it into a new window - Anglefire doesn't let you link to it here: "http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/angeldawn30_2000/vwp?.dir=/Vents-Ram+air&.src=ph&.dnm=White+Z.jpg&.view=t" (Leave the starting and ending " out when you cut/copy it. I put the " there so the software on HybridZ wouldn't automatically make it a link.) BTW, those wheels are awesome - pricey I'd bet. Looks great on that car. [ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] [ November 05, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Jim, I'm watching very closely... I have a Vic Jr. (Mike's old one) and I' patient enough to wait until a year or so to get the Commander 950 with wideband O2. Doesn't SX make a good pump that's quieter?

Don't take this as gospel, but I think the 1st gen one is preferred (89-94). That's why the guy said it could be used on a late model. Search the archives at dsm.org - lots of info there. [ November 04, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

I like the Magnacores I have on my Eclipse. With it's waste-spark system, low resistance is key. But for a regular ignition, they might be overkill. MSD 8.5mm wires are fairly low resistance and a decent design. I too would love to find a cheap Magnacore source, darn things are expensive!

Anybody seen 4/8 lug thin spacers (~1/8")?

quote: Originally posted by mattback: Umm... What exactly do you need an high idle for anyways/??? Only thing I can think of is counteracting the A/C dropping revs at idle.

Sweet cam selection - if I was doing a hyd roller, that'd be the one! (for the 10.5:1 you're building for) I agree with Kim - no need for 1.6's if the cam can get enough lift for the duration used. A roller opens up the possibilities greatly for more duration with mild to a bit high lift - and 1.5's make sense - unless you need more lift than even a roller without going to more duration. BTW, I seriously doubt you'll call your 350 underpowered with that compression increase and that cam! [ November 02, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

A piece of a "donut" is useful for putting a long muffler in the rear of the Z. Check this post, and my site for info: http://forums.chevytalk.com/forums/Forum64/HTML/004977.html

I agree with zfan on the shaving of the top of the urethane by 0.3" - but don't forget you need to cut the sam amount off the inner sleeve (obvious when you put it together). Also, I left the 0.1"+ thick steel washer off the top as well. This helps the rear driveshaft angle quite a bit, and gets it closer to the typical front angle. Check my "driveline mods" page for details, if interested. HTH,

MSA and other's replacement springs should lower you around 1". Sometimes you can find these used. Not sure how much they are and what you have planned for future enhancements, but Mike/scca has coilover kits with springs, top perch, for $400 - check the HybridZ store.

There's a place out in the valley in West Virginia that makes Floral Foams, "Foot foam" and other "blown foams". I went there for a business trip for the Navy - hard to believe - and explain. You should see how they make that stuff (floral foam). Several gallons of liquid are poured in the bottom of a mold that expands on the vertical sides at a set rate. Within 10 or 15 minutes those few gallons of liquid "blow" into a huge, 12'x10'x10' green foam "dinner roll". They open up one side of the mold and a forklift stabs it, lifts it, and it eventually goes to a big bread slicer where they cut it up first into bread slice shaped pieces, then another machine cuts it horizontally. Imagine walking into a storage warehouse where huge 12'x10'x10' green "dinner rolls" are sitting around! I wonder how much one of those would cost?

Engineer AND glutten for punishment The thing that bothers me is it has always seemed to me very difficult to design the bolted joints so that they are truly rigid. For that reason, I'd just weld it in, powder coat it, and get a big heat lamp

Thanks, Ara Vahan, I'm still up in the air, but little bits of info like this help! I'm kind of lazy about big projects on the car at this point (lots to do to get it driveable) and I'm considering the Pro-jection right now as a bolt on and go system that's not horribly obscenely priced and should work alot better than a carb. But I'd sure like to have a Kinsler setup!

Check with the Nissan dealer. Many of these parts are still available.

Wow, beautiful work! That rust work looks so familiar. BTW, there are only about 6 or 8 spot welds that hold the battery tray to the inner fender. I used a spot weld drill and removed mine and got to the rust there and at the firewall/inner fender area. You could then derust the tray and reinstall it if you wanted. Not a lot of work to do.

Lone, a few years ago, I bought my second ever new car and my first Ford - a 1999 Contour V6 5spd Sport. $15K out the door, a few options, and it handles and accelerates decently for a car of that price or higher. Quality hasnt' been a problem yet. Of course, these didn't sell well, as people that buy Fords don't like them to be tightly sprung, I guess, plus they're a bit small on the inside for a 4 dr sedan. I'm definitely not partial to new GM cars either. Although I started with 2 Chevy's (70 Camaro, 68 NOva), then a Dodge (Dart 6cyl.), then an Olds (76 Cutlass), then the 240Z. You don't see any Fords in that list. My Mitsu Eclipse GSX (92) went to the dealers 6 or 7 times for transmission rebuilds, replacements, etc. before they put a 94 trans in it and it now works well. Just pointing out that even Japanese cars have quality problems. That's a Japanese built engine and transmission in that car too, not made in USA. Hopefully the replacements at Ford and Lutz at GM will shake some spirit and excitement into the designs and styling! Nissan lost the boat on styling for a long time, although I like the new Altima.

quote: Originally posted by RPMS: So stand up, fellow Weenies! Don't stand for treatment like this! Cast off your oppressive horn rim glasses, your pocket protectors, and your HP calculators! Pick up that spot weld tool and learn how to use it - you'll be glad you did! Hey, I'm not giving up my HP RPN calculators - Never. BTW, I love it when some not-so-weenine engineer at work asks to borrow my calculator, looks at it for a while, and then asks where the "equals" button is! Hah! That's a non-weenie test if I ever saw one! I'm a card carrying Weenie, I guess , Pete

Lone, if you're using the stock rubber coated washers, yes, you could just remove the nut on the bottom below the mustache bar and then go up inside the hatch/cargo area right inboard of the strut tower and remove the bolt and slide the washer out. Try it one at a time, of course, holding the rear of the diff up with something. Not that you might need to put a spacer or washers below the bottom rubber coated washer, since the bolt is not threaded very far up the shank.

It sounds like the field is being fed 12v even with the key off. Are both of the small wires that go to the alternator (the field energize and voltage sensing wires, if present) fed 12V all the time?

Cool. I just thought that when people did dyno runs they typically hammered it all the way. I wonder what the Z31 motor would put out for torque at say 2500 rpm if fully spooled and loaded?

quote: Originally posted by GrinZ: Mr. Ford is a huge environmentalist. As Mr. Yates says, "Gore like." Not good, IMHO. Oh boy... "Gore like" REALLY bothers me. If that means he makes up his own "environmental science", FoMoCo is in big trouble. Although I do wish someone would push the fuel cell technology along a bit more.

http://www.geocities.com/monty_williams/ I can't see where I'd change much, well, maybe a tiny bit smaller cam and ports for the street. There has to be $15000 in that motor/EFI, etc. INCREDIBLE! [ October 30, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Miles, I'm sorry if it seems I was raining on your parade. I'm real happy you got your car running and I shouldn't have put a negative in my response. I'm really stoked every time we see a new V8Z come online! That said, you may have some easy remedies if the u-joint angle difference of 2.5 degrees does cause vibration problems. The first one is to raise the back of the differential by modifying or removing the rubber washers above the ends of the mustache bar, etc. The JTR manual goes over this, but I heard about this method before it was part of the manual. The other thing is you may be able to raise the front of the motor or lower the rear of the trans a bit to help. The last thing I can think of is to lower the front of the diff the way Simon or jerimio (sp?) did by modifying the front diff crossmember. Can't wait to hear how you like the power to weight ratio of your new Z!

You can buy a through-the-sparkplug-hole piston stop pretty cheap, as well as a degree wheel. I'd check where TRUE TDC is and mark the balancer to be sure.

Thanks, that's kind of what I figured on the valve spring pressures needed. Kinda dead until about 3500 rpm - fine for drag racing IMO, but I wouldn't want it on the street. Thanks for posting that!